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ANTIGUA
AND THE ANTIGUANS
A FULL ACCOUNT OF
THE COLONY AND ITS INHABITANTS
FROM THE TIME OF THE CARIBS
TO THE PRESENT DAY,
faitmJpmJefc foitl) Sfouttotttf anffl legend.
AL80,
*,«r.i--
AN IMPARTIAL VIEW OF SLAV^IJ^ AND THE
FREE LABOUR SYSTEMS;
THE STATISTTWJiMOF THE ISLAND,
AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF THE PRINCIPAL FAMILIES.
" Sworn to no party, of no sect am I."— Popk. ^
IN TWO VOLUMES.
V&t. L
m
LONDON
SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONMTIT STREET."
1844. ^
Sf\teo*.s
IIMMMID ^©lleg: jbba/o;
-J ,-V* / /
%
r.
\Y' W \ ! "
TO THE
HON B ^ ROWLAND EDWARD WILLIAMS,
LATE CAPTAIN IN THB 10th REGIMENT OP HUS8AB8.
ONE OP HER MAJESTY'S PRIVY COUNCIL IN ANTIGUA,
THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF
THE FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN THAT ISLAND,
AND THE FRIEND AND BENEFACTOR OF ITS INHABITANTS
OF EVERY HUE AND COLOUR,
©f)te WHorfe,
DESCRIPTIVE OF ANTIGUA AND THB ANTI6UANS,
IS, BY HIS KIND PERMISSION,
INSCRIBED
BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE,
Although in the present day the writing of a preface
may be considered almost a work of supererogation on
the part of an author, since it is that portion of a work
seldom or ever looked into, still, as custom demands the
form, and there may be some among my readers who
may desire to learn what first led me to undertake this
work, I am induced to follow the fashion, more espe-
cially as on one or two points I am desirous of offering
a few words of comment and explanation.
Not being a native of the West Indies, and visiting
that part of the world for the first time at an age when
all looks bright around us, the novelty of the scenes
which passed before my eyes struck me forcibly, and
induced me to make notes of the impressions I then
received. Pursuing the same practice at subsequent
visits, and during prolonged residences, in process of
time my memoranda expanded to a considerable bulk.
The increasing interest I took in everything relating to
Antigua, led me to inquire into its early history, and to
search out the origin of the numerous ancient families
whose descendants have resided in the island from the
period of its colonization.
a 2
VI PREFACE.
Sgrne of my friends in the island who had become
acquainted with my pursuits, were gratified by the
specimens of my labours, which were exhibited to them,
and urged me to throw my scattered notes into form.
I yielded to their solicitations, and the result has been
the following pages, which, while they afford a con-
densed history of the colony from its earliest days, pre-
sent also a record of the impressions produced on one,
at first, fresh from English society, but now, by long
continued residence, become almost an Antiguan;
having, it is hoped, lost all relics of English prejudice,
but not become so biassed by her new connexions, or
blinded by the many charms of Antigua or Antiguan
society, as to hold the scales of justice unevenly.
Having been resident in Antigua both before and
after the passing of the Emancipation Act, and having
had ample opportunity of judging of the practical effects
of that memorable event, the observations I have made
with relation to it may not be considered altogether
unimportant.
In perusing the early history of the colony, the
English reader may be surprised to find how many men
of family became early settlers in the West Indies;
but when the eager spirit of adventure which imme-
diately followed the enterprises of the Spaniards, and
was so eminently conspicuous in the days of Elizabeth,
is called to mind — when the causes which drove the
" pilgrim fathers" forth are recollected, together with
the numerous emigrations which took place from
England, when the Royalists, in their turn forced to
become fugitives, mostly sought a refuge in the IWest
Indies, at first a safe and sanctioned asylum, till the
PREFACE. Vli
very amount of the fresh influx of Royalist opinions
made the West Indies a thorn in Cromwell's side, and
compelled him to have recourse to strong measures to
secure their obedience to his will, — when all these
causes are considered, it becomes no longer a matter of
wonder that much of the best blood of England runs in
the veins of the people, not only of Antigua, but of the
West India islands generally.
In justice to the character of the country which I
have learned to love, I must, although unwillingly,
notice another and a most painful subject. I refer to
the exceedingly harsh laws passed respecting the slaves,
and the shocking executions of those concerned in the*
insurrection in 1736. In relation to the former point,
it is sufficient to observe that such laws are almost
inseparable from the institution of slavery itself, and
that the stigma affected the mother country equally
with her colonies, while it redounds to the honour of
Antigua that she was the first to announce unbounded
freedom to her slave population. With respect to
the barbarous executions, they would not be tole-
rated in Antigua at the present day, even had she
continued to be a slave-dealing colony ; and they can
only in justice be referred to a state of society when
the practice of torture had hardly fallen into desuetude
in the civil courts of Europe, when the Inquistion was
in full glory, when, only a few years before, the politest
capital in the world had looked unmoved on
" Luke's iron crown, and Damien's bed of steel,"
and criminals continued to be strung up by dozens in
England (and for many long years after) for offences
I
V1U PREFACE.
which, in the present advanced state of society, no
civilized state would visit with the punishment of death.
What wonder, then, that at such a period, and under
such alarming circumstances, the Antiguans should have
shewn themselves cruel and barbarous ?
Before I conclude, I must not omit to tender my
acknowledgments to the numerous friends who have
kindly afforded me assistance in the course of my work,
among whom let me make grateful mention of Edward
S. Byam, Esq., the Rev. and Hon. Burgh Byam, Col.
Byam, Dr. Furgusson, Nathaniel Humphreys, Esq.,
Deputy Colonial Secretary in Antigua, (to which latter
gentleman 1 was indebted for access to the Records of
the island,) to John Furlong, Esq., (who obliged me with
the will of Governor Parke,) Registrar of Antigua, to
— Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of the
Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.
In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour
down His choicest blessings upon this beautiful and
favoured little island ; may her legislators be ably en-
dowed in all true principles of jurisprudence ; may
her planters be blest with kindly showers, so that their
golden canes may raise their " tall plumes" in luxuriance ;
may her merchants, the prop of every civilized state,
be prosperous — her peasantry happy and good, as they
are free; and, finally, may her ministers (of every
denomination) be long spared to watch over and pray
for her teeming inhabitants, that one choral song of
praise may resound from every quarter and from every
tongue.
The Author.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER L
General Description of the Island— Appearance — Soil — Productions —
Climate — Early history — Discovery by Columbus — Attempted set-
tlement by Spaniards— Grant to Earl of Carlisle— Settlement by
d'Esnambuc — Williams— Governor Warner — Account of Sir Thomas
Warner, founder of the family p. 1
CHAPTER IL
History of the island continued — Sir Henry Hunks — Descent of the
Caribs — Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook — Arrival of the Ship Nonsuch
— Sir Thomas Modiford — Earl of Warwick, Captain-General —
Captain Edward Warner — Colonel Rich — Colonel Lake — Mr. Eve-
rard — Sir George Ayscue— Colonel Christopher Reynall — Invasion
by the Caribs — Dissensions among the inhabitants — Copy of Colonel
ReynalTs letter to Cromwell — Attack upon St Domingo and
Jamaica— Major General Poyntz — Grant of Antigua to Lord F.
Willoughby 8
CHAPTER IIL
Rupture between France and England — War in the West Indies-
Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby — Colonel Carden — Capture of
Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre — Colonel Fitche
— Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda — Death of Colonel
Carden— Biographical notices 21
X CONTENT8.
CHAPTER IV.
Governors: Lord 'William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby — Arrival
of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of the
family of that name — Biographical remarks — Partition of the
Caribbee Islands — Sir William Stapleton — General Council and
Assembly — Colonel Philip Warner — Expedition against the Caribs
— Death of Indian Warner — Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner
— Acquittal— Dampier's account of this affair — Captain Southey's
History of the Indian Warner 38
CHAPTER V.
Governor Col. R. Williams — Biographical remarks — Towns of trade
appointed — Antigua divided into parishes — Sir Nathaniel Johnson
appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief — Colonel Codring-
ton — Remarks upon this family — Invasion of Antigua by a French
privateer — Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English — Expedition to
St. Christopher's — Gallant conduct of Colonel Williams and Colonel
Willoughby Byam — Sir Francis Wheeler's expedition — Wilmot
and Lillingston's expedition — Death of the captain-general, General
Codrington — Colonel John Yeamans, lieutenant-governor— Arrival
of Admiral Benbow 49
CHAPTER VL
Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington — Establishment of the first
market — Accession of Queen Anne — Arrival of Admiral Benbow —
Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction with the
Antiguan troops — Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam — Arrival of
Captain Hovenden Walker— Second attack upon Guadaloupe —
Colonel Codrington quits the government —His death — Sir William
Mathew — Hon. John Johnson .....61
CHAPTER VII.
Governor Colonel Daniel Parke — His birth-place and parentage —
His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim — His arrival at
Antigua — Dissensions with the Antiguans— Complaints against him
sent to England — Results of the applications at the court of Queen
Anne — Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke — Events of the 7th
December, 1710— Death of Colonel Parke 68
CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER VIII.
Governor Walter Hamilton — Walter Douglas's Disturbances — Com-
plaints against him sent to England — Queen Anne recalls him, and
reappoints Walter Hamilton — Lord Viscount Lowther— John Hart —
Lord Londonderry — Lord Forbes— Colonel William Crosbie. . 80
CHAPTER IX.
Governor William Mathew — Insurrection of the Negroes — A Legend
of the Ravine — Punishment of the Conspirators 89
CHAPTER X.
Governor William Mathew — Sir George Thomas, Bart — James
Verchild — Honourable William Woodley— Sir Ralph Payne — Hon.
Craister Greathead — General Burt — The circumstances of his death
—Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart 108
CHAPTER XI.
Governors : William Woodley — John Stanley — Major-General Charles
Leigh — Archibald Esdail — John S. Thomas— Robert Thomson 122
CHAPTER XII.
Governors : The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Laviogton — William
Woodley — James Tyson — John Julius — Hugh Elliot — Sir James
Leith — Henry Rawlins — S. Rawlins— Major-General Ramsay 131
CHAPTER XIII.
Governors: Sir Benjamin D'Urban — Sir Patrick Ross — Sir Evan
Murray M'Gregor — - Mr. Light — Sir W. G. M'Bean Colebrooke —
Major M'Phail — Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy 144
CHAPTER XIV.
My first voyage to Antigua— Visit upon deck — The booby's welcome
— Nearer approach — Harbour of St. John's — The Black Pilot —
North Sandy Island — Wreck of the mail-boat — Dangerous navi-
Xll CONTENT8.
•
gation — Long Island — South Sandy Island — Panoramic views from
the vessel's deck — Light winds — Disappointment made pleasing —
Anchorage for the night 153
CHAPTER XV.
The extent of Antigua — Opinion of some planters — Want of agricultural
labourers — Emigration not always profitable to the negroes —
44 Seizar's" letter upon the subject — Return of emigrants — Soil of
Antigua — Geological matters — Petrifactions — Climate of Antigua —
** Yellow fever" — Beautiful evenings — the appearance of the heavens
— Evening visitants 163
CHAPTER XVI.
Scenery of Antigua — Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring" — The
Goddess Mnemosyne — Fig-Tree Hill — The "Bower of Bliss"—
" Old Road" — The Strand — The cross sexton — The parochial
school — Old Road Church — Tomb of Col. Williams — Moravian
settlement — Salt ponds — Copses — " Crab Hill" — Sandy Valley —
The Valley Church — The rising moon — Arrival in town— Night,
and night dreams 172
CHAPTER XVII.
The seasons at Antigua— Heavy rains — Long droughts — The water-
merchant — A fortunate shower — Drought in 1837 — Desolate appear-
ance of the country — Famishing cattle — Definition of "fine rams"
Anecdote — Heavy shower — Joy — Earthquakes — 1835 — Meteors —
Dressing for the ball — The alarm — The ball-room — Hurricanes —
Devastations 188
CHAPTER XVIII.
Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua — Situation
— Arrangement of the streets — Hucksters — Houses — Springs — Small
shops — Stores of the retail dealers — Grog-shops — Merchants' stores
and lumber yards — Definition of lumber — Auction sales — Scotch
Row and Scotchmen — Incongruous display of goods — Fire in 1797 —
Ruins — Fire in 1841 — Its devastations 202
CONTENTS. Xlll
CHAPTER XIX.
Description of the church of St John's — Period of its erection — Present
site — Panoramic views — Form of structure — Length and breadth—
Interior — Decorations — Monuments — Organ — Tower — Bells —
Clock — Churchyard — Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions — An
acrostic — " Adam and Eve !" 218
CHAPTER XX.
Court-house — Bazaar — Arsenal — Police-office — Government-house
— Barracks — House of correction — Gaol—Methodist chapel— Me-
thodism, its rise and progress in Antigua — Moravian chapel — Rise
and progress of the Society of United Brethren — Scotch kirk . 234
CHAPTER XXL
Morning — Institutions — Daily Meal Society — Its rise and progress —
Lazaretto — Destitute Females' Friend Society — Its origin and pur-
pose — Friendly Societies — Bible Society — Missionary associations —
Temperance Society — Juvenile Association — Ladies' Clothing Society
&c. — Banks — Library Society 252
CHAPTER XXII.
Early rising and " Jamie Thomson" — Journey to English Harbour —
Windmills and Don Quixote — Groups of negroes and their equipages
—All Saints' chapel of ease— The " Hamlet"— Village of Liberta—
Grace Hill — Patterson's and Prince William — English Harbour
market — Streets and dwellings — Commissariat's store and govern-
ment tank — Dockyard — The superintendent — Stores and storehouses
— Engineer's workshop — Blacksmith's shop and blowing machine —
Limes and roses — Recollections of England — Lieutenant Peterson
and Lord Camelford — His lordship's pranks — The ordnance —
Clarence House and Dows Hill — The Ridge and " Shirley heights"
— Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley — Bats Cave — The Savannah
and its tombs — Indian Creek — Return to town 264
CHAPTER XXIII.
Zulmiera, the Half-Carib girl, a Legend of the Savannah . . . 285
vol. I. b
XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Continuation of the Legend 293
CHAPTER XXV.
Conclusion of the Legend 302
CHAPTER XXVL
Towns : Falmouth — Church and churchyard— Mangroves and acacias —
Black's Point — Bridgetown — Willoughby Bay — Its site and decora-
tion—The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools — School-room —
Methodist chapel — The Memoras — St Philip's church — Beautiful
views — Parham — Its derivation and site — St Peter's church —
Churchyard— The new church — Methodist chapel and school-room
313
CHAPTER XXVII.
Forts and fortifications — Temporary ones — The present forts — Fort
James — Its situation and approach — Rat Island Battery, its appella-
tion, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff— Goat Hill— Steep ascent —
Schools in St. John's 327
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans — Suppositions of various
authors — Caribs — Arrowawks — Ferocity of the Carib— Complexion
— Dress — Ornaments — Dreadful revenge— Wars — Chiefs — Severi-
ties practised — Feasts — Remarks upon paganism — Anthropophagi —
A traveller's tale — The Carib's opinion of death — Religious tenets —
Altars — The burning Carib . 336
ERRATA.
Page 4, line 8 from top, for " D'Escambue," read " D'Esnambuc.
— 20, line 7 from bottom, for " Parhan," read " Parham."
— 89, line 3 from top, for '* Mathews," read " Mathew.
— 249, line 13 from top, for " Hernhult," read " Herrnhutt
— 266, line 3 from bottom, for " Sheltic," read " Sheltie."
»
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Hon. Bertie £. Jarvis ...
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Hon. R. W. Nan ton
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At. Ci)¥t8to]rf)e?'0.
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IBngXanto.
Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager
Sir T. Fowel Buxton. Bart., Northrepps, Norfolk
Lord James O'Bryen, 15, North Crescent, Bstth
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Edward S. Byam, Esq., Cheltenham .
Hon. and Rev. Richard Burgh Byam
Kew and Petersham
Mrs. Engleharte
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Vicar of
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Mrs. John Walter, Bridge -street, Blackfriars ... 1
% « »««•
ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
ETC.
CHAPTER I.
General description of the island — Appearance— Soil — Productions —
Climate — Early history — Discovery by Columbus — Attempted set-
tlement by Spaniards — Grant to Earl of Carlisle — Settlement by
d'Escambue — Williams — Governor Warner — Account of Sir Thomas
Warner, founder of the family.
The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated
in the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-
east of Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in
latitude seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two
degrees, or thereabouts, the measurement in these respects
not being more exact than those of its length and breadth,
which are variously stated at 21,20, and 18 miles for its length,
and 2], 20, and 17, for its breadth. The lower estimate is,
however, most probably correct. Its circumference, again,
is variously stated at from 50 to 80 miles, and its total area
from 59,838 acres, to 108 square miles, or nearly 70,000
acres. The population in 1837, consisted of 2000 whites
and coloured people, and 33,000 blacks. All the slaves in
the island were enfranchised in 1834.
The island is of an oval shape. On the first approach
the coast appears rough and barren, but as the voyager draws
nearer, hills and valleys open on his view, and the shore puts
B
2 DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND.
on an appearance of luxuriant vegetation. The country
possesses little of a mountainous character, the highest ele-
vation reaching only to the height of 1210 feet above the
level of the sea. The soil varies according to the situation ;
that of the valleys and low lands consisting of a rich, black
mould, on a substratum of clay ; and unless in seasons of
excessive drought, to which this island is peculiarly subject,
remarkably productive. The soil of the high lands, on the
other hand, is a stiff, reddish clay, on a substratum of marl,
and is much less productive, abounding, as it does, with a
species of grass extremely difficult to extirpate ; and the in-
crease of which has even caused some lands, formerly cul-
tivated, to be abandoned. With the exception of such tracts,
and of a small part totally unimprovable, the whole island
may be said to be under cultivation. The staple production
is sugar ; a little cotton is cultivated ; but all other articles of
commerce, with the exception of sugar, are neglected. The
quantities of ground provisions, as yams, eddoes, sweet pota-
toes, &c, grown in favourable seasons, is very considerable.
The most remarkable circumstance connected with An-
tigua is the want of fresh -water springs, there being but two
or three of them, wholly inadequate to the wants of the po-
pulation. This want is supplied by tanks, in which the rain
water is preserved, and found to be particularly wholesome
and agreeable, being light and pleasing to the palate.
The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although
the average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered
one of the most healthy in the West Indies.
The history of Antigua may be said to commence with
its discovery by Columbus, for although it was at that period,
and subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear
not to have made it a place of permanent residence; the
want of water, which caused European settlers so long
to neglect the island, deterring them also from establishing
themselves upon it. For an account of the Caribs, and of
their probable origin, the reader is referred to the chapters
DISCOVERT BT COLUMBUS. 3
devoted to that interesting subject ; and we shall now pro-
ceed to the history of the settlement of the island and of its
internal administration down to the present time, reserving
for future chapters those sketches of the island, and its
inhabitants, which are the result of personal experience.
It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that
Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party,
but finding, on examination, that it was peopled only by a
few Caribs, who possessed nothing that was serviceable to
the Spaniards, and who were, probably, only casual visitants,
and that the island was destitute of fresh water, he contented
himself with giving it a name, Antigua, from the church of
St. Mary of Antigua, at Seville, and abandoned it. There
is a tradition that the name given to the island by the na-
tives was " Xaymaca," signifying the " land of springs ;" but
whether this " lucus a non lucendo" was a specimen of Ca-
ribbean wit, or, more probably, arose from a mistake on the
part of the European visitants, is uncertain.
Antigua remained neglected by all the various European
adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured
spots, until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards,
under the Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, mho had re-
ceived letters-patent from the King of Spain to colonize
Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu, Deseada, Dominica, and
Martinique, landed, and driving off the few Caribs they
found there, attempted to establish themselves ; but after a
short stay they abandoned it, and the island remained with-
out a European claimant until the year 1627, when the Earl
of Carlisle obtained a grant of Barbados, Antigua, and the
rest of the Leeward Islands, from Charles I. This grant
was opposed by the Earl of Marlborough, on the plea of a
prior grant from James I., which was, however, eventually
compromised, and the Earl of Carlisle was recognised as
the sole proprietor. He, however, contented himself with
settling Barbados ; and although Antigua was colonized in
his lifetime, yet neither he nor his son, who died without.
b2
4 FIBST SETTLEMENT.
issue in 1660, and in whom the family honours became ex-
tinct, appear to have ever interested themselves in Antigua,
or to have exercised any rights of ownership or property.
In fact, the first permanent occupation of the island appears
to have been a mere private speculation, and to have excited
little notice or inquiry, since it is still a question who was
the first actual settler.
In the year 1629, Mons. d'Escanibue, the captain of a
French privateer, made an attempt at a settlement, but the
want of water drove him away after a very short stay ; so
short, indeed, that although a party of English settlers seem
to have been upon the island, he did not remain long enough
to discover them. The assertion, however, that English
colonists were then on the island, rests solely on a tradition
that William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, who interested
himself greatly in the colonization of the West Indies, sent
out his friend and countryman, Mr. Williams, (the father of
Colonel Rowland Williams, renowned in Antiguan story, as
having been the first white child born on the island,) to at-
tempt a settlement in Antigua. As Lord Pembroke died
in April 1630, it does not appear probable that Mr. Wil-
liams' settlement was later than 1629. If he were not the
first, there is no doubt he was one of the first settlers, and
an estate at Old Road, still in possession of his descendant, is
pointed out as the spot he made choice of for his residence,
which, as it is in the neighbourhood of the best spring in the
island, now known as " Tom Moore's Spring," is extremely
likely to have been the case. A fact that strengthens the
probability of Mr. Williams being the first settler is, that
Mr. Warner, who unquestionably conducted a party to Antigua
from St. Kitts, in 1632, fixed his residence near the same
spot, which it is natural he should do, for the sake of com-
panionship, but built a cistern, whose ruins are still to be
seen in the savannah, which he need not have done, had not
the scanty spring been already appropriated.
In the year 1632, General Sir Thomas Warner, at that
time, by the sanction of the Earl of Carlisle, the legal pro-
GENERAL SIR THOMAS WARNER. 5
prietor, and, under warrant from the king, Governor of St.
Christopher, Nevis, Barbados, and Montserrat, sent his son
Edward, a captain in the army, with a sufficient party, to colo-
nize Antigua, which design he carried into effect, and during
the remainder of his life continued to act as governor, al-
though we have discovered no evidence of his having ever pos-
sessed, either as principal or deputy, any warrant for assuming
the title, or executing the functions of governor, except so
far as his father, as agent for the Earl of Carlisle, the lord
proprietor of the island, might be considered as vested with
authority ; for in his commission from the crown, no men-
tion is made of Antigua.
The name of Warner being thus distinguished in the annals
of Antigua, we may be excused for making a digression upon
the history of its founder, more especially as it affords a good
illustration of the process of colonization in our West Indian
and American possessions.
General Sir Thomas Warner was a scion of an ancient and
distinguished English family ; but from being a younger son,
he was obliged to use personal efforts, in order to effect an
honourable passage through life. Having entered into the
army at an early age, and attained the rank of captain, he ac-
companied Roger North, brother of Lord North, in his expedi-
tion to Guiana, a country which was then looked upon as a
perfect Eldorado. Here he became acquainted with a Captain
Pain ton, a great navigator of those times, and one who had
well studied the then all-engrossing subject of colonization.
This gentleman suggested to Captain Warner how much
more facility would attend a settlement in one of the smaller
islands, than in a country so extensive as Guiana; and from
his own personal experience, he thought St. Christopher's (at
that time unoccupied by any European power) would be an
island particularly adapted for the exercise of a daring spirit,
in the way of planting a settlement.
These suggestions of his friend appear to have made due
impression upon the mind of Mr. Warner ; for in 1620, after
the death of Captain Painton, he resolved to return to Eng-
6 COLONIZATION OF ST. CHRISTOPHER'S.
land, and endeavour to procure the aid of some kindred spirit,
in order to put his designs into execution. Having so far
succeeded in his plans as to procure all necessary arrange-
ments for establishing a colony, Mr. Warner again left Eng-
land, accompanied by his wife and son, Edward, (who was a
captain in the army at the early age of thirteen, and who was
afterwards appointed first governor of Antigua,) and a small
party of followers,* and embarked on board a vessel bound
for Virginia, whence himself and party proceeded to St. Chris-
topher's, where they arrived 28th January, 1623. Mr. Warner,
as head of the settlers, commenced immediately the task of
cultivation, in which he so far progressed as to raise a crop
of tobacco, which was unfortunately destroyed in the severe
hurricane of the 19th of the following September.
During this period, the movements of the English were
diligently observed by the Caribs, who, instigated by three
Frenchmen, (supposed to have been cast upon the island by
a former storm,) at length made an outbreak upon the English,
and retarded in some measure their work of cultivation.
By the end of the following February, Mr. Warner had
another crop of tobacco ready for exportation ; and the ship
Hopewell (commanded by Captain Jefferson) arriving on the
4th March, 1624, from London, bringing fresh supplies for
the infant colony, a few emigrants, and goods with which to
trade with the Caribs, Mr. Warner resolved to return in her
to England, in order to obtain more powerful assistance.
He accordingly embarked himself and his first-gathered crop
on board the " Hopewell/ 1 and once more sought the shores
of England, to receive the congratulations of his friends, and
search for a patron who would enable him to carry out further
his plans of colonization.
Between that period and 1625, Mr. Warner was employed
in voyaging backwards and forwards from St. Christopher's
* The names of these adventurous few were as follows: — William
Tasted, John Rhodes, Robert Bims, Mr. Benifield, Sergeant Jones, Mr.
Ware, William Ryle, Rowland Grasscocke, Mr. Bond, Mr. Langley,
Mr. Weaver, Sergeant Aplon, one sailor, and a cook.
sir thomas Warner's epitaph. 7
and England, leaving the cares of the government to his son,
EdwardWarner, (of whom Du Tertre speaks very handsomely,)
until, having gained a friend and patron in the Earl of
Carlisle, he was introduced at the court of the then reigning
sovereign, Charles I. This monarch was so pleased with
Mr. Warner's indefatigable and patriotic spirit, that he was
graciously pleased to grant him a commission, (signed 18th
Sept. 1625,) constituting him governor over the " foure
islands of St. Christopher's, Nevis, Barbados, and Mount-
serrate," 4 and on the 2 1st September, 1629, knighted him at
Hampton Court Palace. f
* Vide copy of the first commission granted, No. 1, Appendix,
f Sir Thomas Warner died at St Christopher's in 1648. His tomb is
still to be met with in the parish church for the township of Old Road,
(a place which derives its name from the involuntary exclamation of
Columbus upon his second visit to St. Christopher's, " Ah ! we are at the
old road again,") the inscription upon which is as follows : —
An Epitaph vpon Th
Noble & Mvch Lamented Genr 1 Sir
Tho. Warner, K* Lievtenant
General of y e Carribee
Ielands & Gover* of y e
Ieland of S* Christopher
Who Departed This
Life the 10th of
March 1648.
First Read then weepe when thou art hereby taught,
That Warner lyes interr'd here, one that bought,
With losse of Noble bloud Illustrious Name,
Of A Comander Greate in Acts of Fame.
Trayn'd from his youth in Armes, his courage bold,
Attempted braue Exploites, and vncontrold
By fortunes fiercest Frownes, hee still gaue forth
Large Narratiues of Military worth.
ritten with his sword's poynt, but what is man
•the midst of his glory, and who can
—-this Life A moment, since that hee
—by Sea and Land, so longe kept free
— al, Mortal Strokes at length did yeeld
a ce) to conquering Death the field,
fini Coronat.
The black lines shew where the marble is broken, or the letters from
some other cause are quite obliterated.
8 HI8TORY OF ANTIGUA.
Some of Sir Thomas Warner's descendants have filled the
highest situations in Antigua, administering the govern-
ment at times. Nor is the family extinct, for many there
are who can trace their descent in a direct line from this
great founder of four flourishing colonies. One of these was
in 1838 " gathered to his fathers;" he was esteemed as an able
legislator, and fulfilled his duties as president of the council,
brigadier-general of the militia, and occasionally lieutenant-
governor, with integrity. As this family ranks among the
first aristocrats of the island, a more particular account of
their lineal descent may not be deemed superfluous, and will
be found in the Appendix, No. 2.
CHAPTER II.
History of the island continued — Sir Henry Honks — Descent of the
Caribs — Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook — Arrival of the ship Nonsuch
— Sir Thomas Modiford — Earl of Warwick, Captain-General —
Captain Edward Warner — Colonel Rich — Colonel Lake — Mr. Eve-
rard — Sir George Ayscue — Colonel Christopher Reynall — Invasion
by the Caribs — Dissensions among the inhabitants — Copy of Colonel
ReynaU's letter to Cromwell — Attack upon St. Domingo and
Jamaica — Major-General Poyntz — Grant of Antigua to Lord F.
Willoughby.
We will now return to the history of Antigua, which we
shall hereafter pursue, as closely as possible, in chronolo-
gical order.
In 1639, Sir Henry Hunks paid Antigua a visit. This
gentleman (who was nephew to Lord Conway, Secretary of
State) was the first governor of Barbados with a regular
commission ; but upon his arrival at that colony, Henry
Hawley, the then acting commander-in-chief, would not
resign the government, and raised so formidable a party,
that Sir Henry Hunks quietly retired to Antigua, where he
remained from June to December ; at which latter period,
DESCENT OF THE CARTB8. 9
he was installed in his government, according to the instruc-
tions which he received from England.
In 1640, the English settlers were disturbed in their pos-
sessions at Antigua by the Caribs, who made a descent upon
the island, pillaging it, and destroying everything that fell
in their way. After many lives being lost on both sides, the
English were enabled to repel their invaders ; who, however,
succeeded in carrying away the governor's wife and her two
children. It is maintained by some authors, that the after
fate of this unfortunate woman was not known ; but that
everything the worst might be imagined from the character
of the Caribs, goaded on as they were by the loss of their
country.
There is, however, a tradition still extant in Antigua,
which most probably relates to this catastrophe. In the
first years of this island becoming an English colony, it was,
of course, but thinly peopled by Europeans, and conse-
quently there was but little force to repel any invasion.
Parties of Caribs from the different islands, particularly
Dominica, used frequently to land upon it, and distress the
inhabitants. In these invasions, no mercy was shewn, no
quarter given, to the unhappy people who fell in their power,
and after a combat, numerous were the bodies left upon
the field of battle. Armed with their massive clubs and
sharp spears, at the end of which was inserted a fish-bone,
dipped in the poisonous juice of the lianas or the manchineel,
the Caribs were no mean foes. No sooner had they set fire
to a cluster of houses, or destroyed a field of tobacco, the
chief production of the island in those days, than they
immediately flew to their canoes, which were so fast in sail-
ing, that before the alarm had subsided in one part, they
were burning and plundering in another.* At that period,
* The following extract alludes to the invasions of the Caribs (Roch-
fort's Histoire des Antilles, published at Rotterdam, 1665, . tome 4,
page 310) : — " Les Caraibs ont fait des descent dans les isles de Mont-
serrat, d'Antigoa, et en d'autres qui sont occupies par les Anglais, et
b3
10 LEGEND OF DING-A-DING-NOOK.
the house where the governor resided was situated near
Falmouth Bay ; and in the village itself the principal of the
English settlers lived. Government House, from its situa-
tion, was particularly open to the attacks of the Caribs ; and
here the first part of the scene took place, which gave rise to
Cf)e legettt of Singling JBoofe.*
It was night. The wind, which had been blowing rather
hard during the day, as evening drew in, gradually sank,
until about midnight, the time when the legend opens, it was
a dead calm. Nothing was to be heard but the dull moaning
of the waves, as they broke heavily upon the beach, or, now
and then, the distant bark of a dog from the houses of the
settlers, which, with the natural fidelity of that animal, had
followed his master to these sunny islands, when he came in
search of that fortune which his native land denied him.
The family of the governor consisted of himself, his young
and beautiful wife, two lovely children, and his numerous
domestics. At an early period of this evening, his lady,
with the warm solicitude of a mother's love, had seen her
infants safely deposited in their cot; and with a mother's
prayer for their happiness upon her lips, watched beside
them until the deepening rose upon their cheeks, and their
measured breathings, shewed that they slept the quiet sleep
of childhood.
Hours rolled on, and all beneath that roof sought their
resting-place — all but the governor's wife were quickly in
the arms of sleep. As if some "spirit of the night" had
whispered a hint of the sufferings she was fated to endure,
an irresistible feeling of melancholy hung over her. Sleep
she could not ; and to allay the fever of her brow, she arose
from her couch, and throwing her robe around her, she opened
the lattice. The scene she looked upon was wild but beau-
apres avoir brule quelques maisons, et pille quelques meubles ; ils out
enleve des homines, des femmes. et des enfans, qu'ils ont conduit a la
Dominique et a St. Vincents."
* An estate in Antigua called by that name.
LEGEND OF DING-A-DING-NOOK. 11
tifal. Dark masses of clouds still hung about the heavens,
and strove to hide the beams of the rising moon ; but she,
" fair Cynthia," kept on her way in peerless majesty, and
shed on every object her mellowed light. The simple houses
of the English were visible amid the trees ; above which the
stately cocoa-nut reared its head, its long pendant branches
perfectly motionless. On one side, the bay of Falmouth lay
stretched before the eye of the gazer, every snow-crested
wave of which could be counted ; and on the other were the
dark mountains, except in the opening of the bay, where
nothing was to be seen but an extent of waters.
Long did that beautiful lady gaze upon this scene : many
thoughts did its loveliness conjure up — thoughts of her
native land, its verdant hills and spangled dells, and all its
towering cities. Present objects were fast fading away,
when a splash of the waters was heard, and as her eye
sought the ocean, a swift-gliding canoe came in sight. At
this moment, the moon, which had been lately obscured,
shone out with redoubled brightness, and she could plainly
discover that the canoe contained about twenty armed men,
and was quickly followed by another, with even more than
that number. Who could these strangers be ?. was the first
thought ; and what their business at such an hour ? Were
they Caribs? And one more glance at their wild forms,
and the dreadful truth rushed across her mind, that they
were coming to storm the house. Soon she awoke her hus-
band, and told him her fears ; the domestics were aroused
and armed, and the house put into a posture of defence.
The canoes were now no longer to be seen ; and even the
lady was inclined to ask, Could it be one of those wild vaga-
ries of the imagination ? when suddenly the war-cry was
heard, and, with dreadful imprecations, a party of Caribs
bounded into sight. Terrible was the fight that succeeded,
and many a corse strewed the ground. At length the Caribs
were obliged to retreat ; but, alas ! they carried with them
all that was dear to the governor — his wife and children.
12 LEGEND OF DING-A-DING-NOOK.
The Caribs, hotly pursued, made for the place where they
had directed their canoes to wait, under the charge of some
of their friends, dragging the unhappy lady and her two
babies with them. Frightened by the wild looks of the
Indians, and suddenly awakened from its slumbers, one of
the little innocents commenced crying bitterly, which its
distressed mother, at the command of her conquerors, vainly
endeavoured to still. After walking, or rather running, for
some distance, they had almost reached the sea-side, when
one of the Caribs, more ferocious than the rest, and thinking
that the cries of the child would perhaps lead their pursuers
to the spot, caught the baby by the feet, and swinging it
around his head, at one blow dashed out its brains upon a
neighbouring rock.* This deed committed in sight of its
parent, the lady and her remaining child were rudely hur-
ried on, until, the beach gained, they were thrown into one
of the canoes ; and the whole party embarking, they pushed
out into the ocean.
The governor, finding they had escaped, proceeded on
board an armed vessel, and immediately sailed in pursuit of
the enemy. The morning that succeeded that disastrous
night was one of West Indian beauty ; not a vapour was
abroad ; the sky was one deep, lovely blue, and the sea
looked like fluid light. Seated upon the high poop,
anxiously did the governor scan the waters in hopes of
seeing the canoes; but nothing met his eye — not even a
speck appeared to raise his hopes. Hour after hour passed
away, but no sight of the fugitives ; night drew on, and the
breeze died away ; the sails flapping heavily against the
mast bespoke another calm. How tedious seemed those
hours of darkness — how fervently was the morning wished
for ; but just before dawn the wind sprung up, and soon
after the mountains of Dominica appeared in sight. Slowly
* This rock is still pointed out upon an estate, called Patterson's,
belonging to the Hon. John Athill.
LEGEND OF DING-A-D1NG-NOOK. 13
but surely the vessel glided on, every eye watching for
some trace of the lost ones, when, in the opening of a little
bay, two empty canoes were discovered. Could these be
the same they were in quest of? was the anxious query;
and if so, where could their owners be ? Orders were given
to let go the anchor, and prepare the boats ; and in a short
time the governor and his party, all well armed, were landed
upon the beach.
A beaten path led up to the mountains, and it was deter-
mined to pursue it in hopes of it leading to some dwelling,
where they might obtain information. As it proceeded,
however, it became more and more intricate, gauva bushes,
aloes, and the prickly pear, grew thickly together, while
different species of parasites conspired to render the path
more impervious. In some places it was almost obstructed
by these various bushes, interspersed with larger trees, so
that the companions of the governor were for returning,
supposing no one could have passed that way lately. But
he was determined to proceed a little further; and had just
stretched out his hand to sever with his sword the over-
hanging boughs of an acacia, when suddenly he made a
start, his heart beat almost to bursting, and, unable to speak,
he pointed to his amazed followers a portion of white taf-
feta hanging to one of its sharp thorns. This, he felt
assured, must have been torn from the robe of his wife;
and, consequently, that was the road her conquerors must
have carried her. Upon further search among the rank and
tangled grass, in hopes of discovering prints of footsteps,
marks of blood were observed. These led to further in-
quiries. Could they have murdered her there ? But no ;
had such been the case, greater quantities of blood would
have marked the deed. Perhaps she might have been
wounded, and placed in some concealment near. Again
they proceeded, guided by the drops of blood, until, coming
to an abrupt turn of the path, about a dozen Caribs' huts
14 LEGEND OF DING-A-DING-NOOK.
lay stretched before them, and their fierce inmates lolling
around the open doors.
In less than a minute all was confusion. Confident that
this was the . party who had stolen his wife, the governor
rushed upon them furious with passion. Nothing could
resist his power ; Carib after Carib lay stretched by the
prowess of his arm ; and springing over his prostrate foes,
the anxious husband entered the principal hut, which
he had observed was carefully guarded throughout the fray.
A well-known voice called his name, an infant's cry of joy
saluted his ear, and, bursting open an inner door, his weep-
ing wife was in his arms, and his darling child clinging
around his knees. It took but little time to quit that spot,
and retrace the mountain path. The drops of blood he
had seen were occasioned by his wife's shoe coming off, and
the rugged ascent cutting her tender feet, upon her journey
to the Cantos' huts. The boat was quickly gained, and in
a few minutes they reached the ship, and, unfurling the
sails, they sought the shores of Antigua, where they arrived
in safety.
Hitherto all was well. Happy in again seeing her husband,
and knowing herself and child were safe, that lady still took
comfort, although mourning the untimely fate of her other
darling. But this did not last long. Other thoughts arose in
her husband's breast — thoughts too horrible to mention.
" Oh 1 what dreadful minutes tells he o'er,
Who dotes, still doubts ; suspects, yet strongly loves."
In vain his poor unhappy wife protested she was pure.
" Jealousy is a green-eyed monster,
That doth mock the food it feeds upon ;"
and by its whispers drove him, who was the affectionate friend
and protector, to be the harsh and implacable tyrant. No
longer enjoying the society of his wife, he determined to get
rid of her ; and for this purpose built a keep in Ding-a-Ding
Nook, and, conveying his wife hither, left her to wear away
her life in hopeless misery.
NONSUCH HARBOUR. 15
This is the legend ; and well might that Nook be selected
for such a place of seclusion, for it is a valley completely-
shut in by the surrounding mountains, and open only to the
sea. I have heard another version of this story, which says,
the governor and his lady parted by mutual consent, and
that* it was her wish to have a house built in that spot.
Surely, if this was the case, she must have had the taste of
an anchorite.
Between the period of Mrs. Warner's abduction and the
year 1666, the Caribs carried away the wives and children
of many of the respectable settlers. Among them, we find
mentioned Mrs. Cardin and children, Mrs. Taylor and chil-
dren, Mrs. Chrew and children, Mrs. Lynch and children,
Mrs. Lee, wife of Captain Lee, and many other females.
Mrs. Lee was detained prisoner for three years, after the
Caribs had murdered her husband, and many other English-
men, the truth of which is attested by the following extract
from a letter written by J. Daniel, auditor-general to the
expedition under Pen and Venables, to Oliver Cromwell,
lord-protector of England, dated 3rd June, 1655 : — " Mrs.
Lee, wife of Captain Lee, was carried away by the Caribs,
and kept prisoner three years at Dominica, her husband and
many English slaughtered." This statement immediately
dispels the hypothesis (which some writers have entertained)
of Captain Lee being the erector of the keep at Ding-a-Ding
Nook; and, consequently, fixes more firmly the truth of
Mrs. Warner being the heroine of the preceding legend.
To return once more to our chronological record. In
1647, the ship " Nonsuch," Captain Middleton, owner,
arrived at Antigua, which gave the name to Nonsuch Har-
bour, having anchored in that port. This was one of three
vessels which had been fitted out from England by Colonel,
afterwards Sir Thomas, Modiford, in order to form a plant-
ation in this island. During the passage, the " Achilles,"
the larger vessel of the expedition, of 300 tons burden,
William Crowder, owner and master, parted company with
16 CAPTAIN-GENERAL APPOINTED.
the il Nonsuch," which proceeded to Antigua alone. The
<' Achilles," after being out at sea for many weeks, put into
Barbados in distress, being infected with a disease which
caused great mortality among the men. During Colonel
Modiford's stay at Barbados, it was represented to him
how far more advantageous it would be to purchase an
estate in that island, already planted, and from which imme-
diate emolument might be derived, than to proceed to an
infant colony, where he would have to undergo all the
fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a planta-
tion. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased
the half of an estate for 7000/., an immense sum at that day,
and thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of
adhering to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of
Antigua. Sir Thomas Modiford afterwards removed to
the newly.gained English colony of Jamaica, of which island
he was appointed governor in 1663, and where he resigned
his breath in 1679. The Earl of Warwick had been ap-
pointed captain-general of all the West Indies in 1643, but
he does not appear to have assumed the command ; for, in
1648, after the demise of Sir Thomas Warner, we find
Colonel Rich become governor of St. Christopher's, Colonel
Lake* of Nevis, and Colonel Edward Warner of Antigua.
How long this latter gentleman retained his situation is uncer-
tain ; but, about the year 1651-2, a Mr. Everard is mentioned
as holding the government of the leeward West India islands.
An official document, however, written in the year 1655,
speaks of a gentleman of that name as governor of St. Kitt's
only.
Antigua, among most of the other colonies in this quarter
* The proper appellation of this gentleman (according to the autho-
rity of E. S. B , Esq.) is Colonel Luke Stokes; but, from an ortho-
graphical error of the French historian, Du Tertre, he has been handed
down to posterity as Colonel Lake. He afterwards removed to Jamaica
at the head of a small party of English settlers, where he died in 1659,
universally esteemed for his virtues and honourable actions.
DEFEAT OF THE CAKIBS. 17
of the globe, refusing to acknowledge the rights of the Pro-
tector, Sir George Ayscue was sent with a squadron to re-
duce them. This island soon yielded to the Commonwealth's
banner, and Colonel Christopher Reynall was ' appointed
governor, instead of the individual who had so daringly
withstood the parliamentary power.
In 1654, the Caribs again made a descent upon Antigua ;
but the English were enabled to repel their invaders, and
effect such slaughter among them, that but few escaped to
tell the tale. This victory appears to have intimidated the
Indians ; and for the next two or three years, the island had
rest from their relentless invasions. About this period, An-
tigua was a prey to great dissensions between the governor
and the governed. Complaints were forwarded by the inha-
bitants to Barbados, praying the governor of that island to
use his influence in endeavouring to put a stop to their in-
ternal distractions. On the other hand, the Governor of
Antigua, Colonel Christopher Reynall, wrote to the Lord
Protector, imploring his Highness to take the island under
his more particular command, and, by his authority, quell
the disaffections which had so unfortunately crept in among
them. The following letter from the Governor of Antigua,
and the extract from one written by Daniel Searle, Esq.,
Governor of Barbados, are taken from " Thurloe's State
Papers :" —
Copy of a letter from Christopher Reynall, Governor of
Antigua, to the Lord Protector of England, Oliver
Cromwell.
" May it please your Highness,
" Upon the reducement of these parts in that expedi-
tion of Sir George Ayscue's employ, I was by him and the
other commissioners, then empowered and commissioned to
be governor and commander-in-chief of this island of Antigua,
in relation and obedience to the Commonwealth of England,
which, to the best of my endeavours, I hope in my instru-
18 COLONEL RBYNALL'S LETTER.
ment, I have faithfully performed ; in the progress of which
my employ being, I have received by several advice, that
it was and is thought meet, and so established by the Great
Council and Estate of England, with your Highnesses con-
sent and acceptation, that the government of our nation and
dominions remain in yourself as Lord Protector ; a thing
most acceptable to me, who do most faithfully wish your
Highness and the Commonwealth welfare and happiness ;
and, in manifestation thereof, have cheerfully acknowledged
and submitted to all such mandates or expresses which hath
hitherto come in the name of the Lord Protector. But in
our private consultations, considering of many spirits amongst
us, doubting their satisfactions have not attained the title of
our ...... or ......; according to our desires and inten-
tions, lest an ill-affected party should presume to take an
advantage thereby in pretending, as some have already given
out, that there were no power .of government, but all as
libertine, until a new commission came from your Highness ;
which, by that means might endanger the place to a con-
fusion and ruin : so render us incapable of that service we
desire to perform to your Highness and the Commonwealth.
The place of itself (if encouragement and small help were
afforded) being of consequence, by reason of the fer-
tility of the soil, and exceeding all others settled in these
parts, in convenient and safe harbours — I, in relation to
the promises and my loyalty to your Highness and the Com-
monwealth, do prostrate my humble desire at the feet of
your Highness's care and justice, as so far to take up the
people and place into your consideration, as to give such
orders and directions as may put us not only in the condition
of walking inoffensively, but also as we may be serviceable
to your Highness and the Commonwealth, which is the
hearty desire of
" Your most obedient subject and servant,
(Signed) " Christopher Reynall.
" From the Island of Antigua, in the parts of America,
"Aug. 20th, 1654."
GOVERNOR SEARLE'S LETTER. 19
The extract from Governor Searle's letter, dated from
Barbados, Nov. 7th, 1655, and addressed to Oliver Crom-
well, Lord Protector, &c, is as follows : —
" Some addresses have likewise been made unto me, by
Mr: Jos. Lee, Mr. Benjamin Langham, and Richard
Farley, inhabitants of Antego, in behalf of themselves and
the people of that colony, concerning some distractions
among them, and the present unsettled and desturbed con-
dition of that colony. But finding 1 have no power to take
cognizance of anything of that nature, without the bounds
of this colony, without a special order from your Highness,
I have transmitted their complaints, and the state of the
matter in difference betwixt them and the governor going off,
which your Highness will here receive."
In 1665, Antigua joined with Barbados, St. Christopher's,
and Nevis, in levying troops to join the intended expedition
of Admiral Pen and General Venables, (of which accounts
had been received from England,) in their projected attack
upon St. Domingo — an island at that period under the power
of Spain, but which Cromwell was very desirous of obtaining.
From the copy of a State paper, it appears, however, that
upon the arrival of the Commonwealth fleet, the Governor
of Antigua, Christopher Reynall, represented to the com-
manders of the expedition, the disastrous state of the island,
from the frequent, and particularly the late, molestations of
the Caribs ; — a fact so clearly presented to Pen and Venables,
that they would not lessen the force of the place, by im-
pressing any of its inhabitants for soldiers. They, therefore,
remained only two days at Antigua, during which period
they proclaimed the Protector with great pomp ; and then
proceeded to St. Christopher's, and the other leeward islands,
where they procured a sufficient complement of men. I am
sorry, however, that an historian of great fame states, " the
troops raised in the West Indies were the most profligate of
mankind."
20 PEN AND VENABLES' EXPEDITION.
As Antigua did not eventually join in this expedition, it
will be sufficient to remark, that the attack upon St. Do-
mingo was very disastrous ; for, although upon the first ap-
proach of the English, the Spaniards left their town and fled
into the woods, the troops did not follow up their advantage.
Venables allowed the soldiers to disembark, without a guide,
ten miles from the capital ; and, wandering about without
any fixed purpose for the space of four days, they gave the
Spaniards time to recover themselves from their alarm, and,
rushing from their place of concealment, they fell upon the
English, who were almost dead with fatigue and hunger,
killed six hundred of them, and drove the remainder on
board their vessels. In order to atone for their indiscretions,
the English commanders resolved to proceed against Ja-
maica, also under the dominion of Spain, and which island
immediately surrendered to the English flag, without a blow
being struck in its defence. Colonel Doyly being appointed
governor of the new gained colony, with about 3000 land
forces under his command, and a fleet of men-of-war under
Vice-Admiral Goodson, Pen and Venables prepared to
return home. Landing the West India troops at their
respective islands, the commanders sailed for England ; but,
upon their arrival, they were both sent to the Tower, for
their failure upon St. Domingo, entirely owing to their want
of proper conduct as English officers.
Upon the Restoration, Antigua held out for the Common-
wealth, as strenuously as in 1651 it had opposed the preten-
sions of Cromwell, and for this cause, Charles II. appointed
Major- General Poyntz, a former deserter from the Parlia-
mentary power, to act as governor, which situation he filled
until 1663, when Lord Francis Willoughby, of Parhan, ob-
tained a grant of the entire island from Charles II. as a re-
ward for his eminent services in the cause of that monarch ;
and Major-General Poyntz retired to Virginia. During the
period this latter gentleman resided at Antigua as governor,
he owned and planted an estate called by him Cassada
Garden, a title which it still bears.
WAR BETWEEN FRANCE AND ENGLAND. 21
CHAPTER III.
Rupture between France and England— War in the West Indies —
Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby — Colonel Carden— Capture of
Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre — Colonel Fitche
— Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda— Death of Colonel
Carden — Biographical notices.
In 1665-6, England was engaged in a contest with Holland,
Denmark, and France ; and during that period, her colonies
in the West Indies suffered greatly, particularly St. Chris-
topher's and Antigua.
St. Christopher's being reduced by the French, Lord
Francis Willoughby headed an expedition of 2000 troops,
and sailed from Barbados (where he was then residing in
preference to Antigua) with the hope of recapturing that
island. On his passage to St. Christopher's, he visited
Martinique, with the design of surprising the place, and,
after taking the French prisoners, to transport them to
Antigua, Montserrat, and Nevis. The French, however, having
received tidings of his movements, were accordingly prepared ;
and Lord Willoughby, finding himself baffled in his inten-
tions, sailed for Guadaloupe, where he arrived on the 2nd of
August. Before any success was effected against this island,
a dreadful hurricane arose, which, raging with extreme vio-
lence for the space of twenty-four hours, entirely destroyed
the fleet of Lord Willoughby, strewing the coast with its
fragments, and every soul perished, with the exception of
two seamen.*
Before embarking upon this expedition, this ill-fated
nobleman appointed his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby,
lieutenant-general and governor of these islands, who in his
turn constituted Colonel Carden governor of Antigua.
» It is said, that some part of Lord Willoughby 's fleet escaped the
hurricane, and reached Jamaica in safety.
22 FRENCH SETTLERS IN ANTIGUA.
Before the declaration of war between France and England
was published, several Frenchmen had left the French colo-
nies, from different motives, and settled in Antigua, where
they lived sociably with the English, and prosecuted their
respective professions. After the rupture between those
nations was known in the West Indies, and the report of
the intended attack upon St. Christopher's by the French,
reached the ears of Lord F. Willoughby, he dispatched his
nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, to the relief of that place.
Arriving, however, too late for the action, he was obliged
to proceed with his ship to Antigua ; and being (according
to Du Tertre, the French historian) in " a burning rage"
at the failure of his plans, he vented it upon the French
settlers whom he found there — confiscating their property,
forbidding them to quit their houses, or hold communica-
tions between themselves, under pain of death, and obliging
them to swear allegiance to the English monarch.
u Many of them submitted, in a very cowardly manner,"
remarks the above-named quaint author ; " but others, whose
heart was in a better place, refused to do so."
Among these French settlers was a young surgeon, of
the name of Grand-Maison, who had been formerly valet-de-
chambre to M. de la Barre, lieutenant-general by sea and land
of the French forces, and who was fully alive to the tyran-
nical manner in which himself and his countrymen had been
treated. Having a little more liberty than the others, from
the nature of his profession, Grand-Maison had an oppor-
tunity of entering into conversation with another young
Frenchman, of the name of Baston, who, says Du Tertre,
" was skilful by sea and land, courageous and brave, and an
admirer of firmness and constancy. " Finding Grand-Maison
entertained the same sentiments as himself, he proposed that
they should steal a small shallop, which was attached by an
iron chain to a post firmly planted in the beach, and taking
advantage of the darkness of the night, effect their escape
from the island. As, however, the pars had been carried
FLIGHT OF GRAND-MAI80N AND OTHERS. 23
away by the owner of the boat, they bribed a French car-
penter, who was engaged working in some of the back woods
of Antigua, to join them in their enterprise, and make them
a pair in that retired place.
Grand-Maison, who served a very rich master,* took the
charge of bringing a sufficient quantity of provisions from
his home; and between them they procured five muskets, a
few pairs of pistols, some cutlasses, twenty or thirty pounds
of powder, and lead in proportion. But thinking themselves
not strong enough to man the shallop, Grand-Maison, who
was very much beloved by the negroes, engaged two of them,
who were esteemed excellent rowers, to accompany him.
All things being duly prepared, they stole away from their
masters by night, hurried to the beach, and the carpenter
having sawn in two the post to which the boat was fastened,
they departed, and made for Guadaloupe. After struggling
manfully against the current and contrary winds for some
time, running many risks of their lives, and putting back
into Antigua once or twice, they changed their resolution,
and made for St. Christopher's — arriving in Cabsterre, a
district of that island, at the very time M. de Chambre
was on the point of sailing for Martinique, to rejoin M. d<
la Barre, with all the French ships of war.
M. Sannois, captain of that district, welcomed the adven
turers, and treated them very kindly ; and upon hearing theii
story, sent them to M. de St. Laurent, who, after examining
them, and finding them well informed of the strength and
natural barriers of Antigua — and more particularly, as Baston
gave him a plan of the coast, shewing the best landing-
places, and offered himself as a guide to the troops, to lead
* It mast be remembered, that at the time we are now speaking of,
surgeons did not hold that respectable rank in society as they now —
that is, most of them— deservedly fill. Not so very many years ago,
naval surgeons in particular were very little thought of; and even in
the British navy, they were required to perform the office of barber, as
well as attend to the bodily ailments of the crew.
24 A CONQUEST CONTEMPLATED.
them to the place " wherever resistance might be expected,' 9
and to be everywhere " at their head/' — he determined to
send them with M. de Chambre to M. de la Barre, at
Martinique.
Upon their arrival at that island, at counsel was held, and
Grand-Maison and Baston introduced, when the latter re-
peated his offers. The assembly was well pleased with his
information and solid reflections ; but M. de Chambre repre-
sented, that the officers of the French forces were so con-
tented with the conquest of St. Kitts, that he thought they
would be unwilling to engage in any new adventure, unless
there was an augmentation of the troops. To this objection
M. Clodore, the Governor of Martinique, replied, in such a
splendid speech, abounding with so much true martial ardour,
that every objection was borne down before him ; and M. de
Chambre was led to observe, that if M. St. Laurent had
heard the powerful arguments brought forward by M. de
CI odor 6, he would change his opinion, and join in attacking
Antigua; and he did not believe M. St. Leon, (the com-
manding officer,) with his brother officers, would even stand
firm in their resolution after hearing him. M. de Chambre
then asked M. Clodore* if he would accompany him to St.
Christopher's, to consult with the other officers. M. Clodore'
immediately replied he should be most happy to do so, if
M. de la Barre would give him such instructions in writing ;
which being directly complied with, they made sail 25th
October, 1666, with seven vessels of war, carrying 166 pieces
of cannon, and commanded by M. de la Barre, admiral of
the whole fleet; M. de CI odor 6, Governor of Martinique;
M. du Lion, Governor of Guadaloupe; M. de Chambre,
Intendant of the French West Indian Company's affairs;
and attended by 130 men of the regiment of Poictiers, com-
manded by Sieur d'Orvillier, and two companies of infantry,
besides the seamen.
Calling in at Guadaloupe, they held another council of
war, in which it was determined to sail for St. Kitt's ; but
LANDING OF fHE FRENCH. 25
at the same time to come so near to Antigua as to be able
to reconnoitre the island, and ascertain if it would be prudent
to attack it before they proceeded to St. Christopher's.
Leaving Guadaloupe on the 2nd November, they made
sail for Antigua, bearing the English flag as a subterfuge,
and thinking by that means to deceive the English. Upon
reaching Antigua, they endeavoured to get into the harbour
of St. John's ; but meeting with contrary winds, they put
back and made for Five Islands' Bay, which at that period
was defended by two forts — the smaller one (which appears
to have been only an artificial mound, without any parapets
or any kind of fortifications) mounted with six guns; the
larger one (with good stone buildings, and standing in that
part now occupied by the batteries of "Goat's Hill") mounted
with eight guns. The men stationed at the smaller fort had
their suspicions first awakened by observing how carefully
the French came in, sounding with the lead every moment ;
and consequently they determined to fire upon them.
To this warm welcome the French replied in such a
manner, bringing all their guns to bear upon the place, that
the English abandoned the fort, and fled. Arriving abreast
of the larger fort, the French anchored at pistol-shot ; and
the firing was carried on with such vigour, that it was also
abandoned, and that with such precipitancy, that the royal
flag was left behind.
The signal was now made for a party to land and take
possession of the forts, with directions to capture all they
could, but not to burn or destroy any part of the country,
wisely remarking, according to their own narrator, that " they
could do that another time." These orders for forbearance,
if they were ever given, were not attended to ; for every-
thing that fell in their way was devastated ; and it has been
remarked by an old author, that the French robbed the very
shoes from off the feet of the inhabitants.*
* To shew the state to which the French reduced the island, the fol-
lowing extract from a letter written by Count D'Estrade, ambassador
VOL. I. C
26 EXCESSES OF THE FRENCH.
But to return to the particulars of the attack. The next
morning, about four o'clock, M. de Clodorg, &c, attended
by 200 men, landed upon the beach, and, guided by Baston,
proceeded to the house where the governor, Colonel Carden,
then resided, which was situated about a mile and a half
from the shore. The English fought with their usual bravery,'
but were at length overpowered; and Colonel Carden, Colonel
Monk, and about thirty other officers, were taken prisoners,
and the house burnt to the ground
The governor, being thus captured, was conveyed on board
the admiral's ship ; and the French were so elated with their
success, that they determined to push on their good fortune,
and endeavour to subdue the whole island. The next day,
they again landed at daybreak, attended by 240 men, divided
into two companies, and guided by Baston. Reaching a large
house situated upon a hill, they dispatched a trumpeter to
summon the inhabitants to surrender, among whom was Mrs.
Carden, the wife of the governor. This trumpeter carried
a letter, written by Colonel Carden, describing how well he
was treated (?), and advising them not to wait to the last
extremity to surrender, but to do so without delay. To this
letter they returned a verbal answer, thanking the French
for their polite treatment to their governor, but at the same
time intimating, that they were resolved to do their duty,
and resist to the last.
Upon receiving this reply, the French commanders pre-
pared for battle, and resolved to storm the house. At first
from the French king to Charles II. of England, dated 26th May, 1667,
and addressed to Louis XIV., is inserted : — " II nous dit de plus que
le Sieur de la Barre avat ruine celle d'Antigoa, et en avait fait trans-
porter tout ce qu'il avait pu afin d'etre mieux en etat <Je conserver de
St. Christophe."
Translation. — "He" — that is, the deputy from Zealand, with whom
Count D'Estrade had had a conference at Breda, on 21st May, 1667 —
informed us, in addition, that the said M. de la Barre had ruined the
colony of Antigua, and had taken and transported from it all that he
could, to the end that he might be in a better condition to retain posses-
sion of St. Christopher's.'
tt
»
DEATH OF BASTON. 27
they were repulsed by the English ; and the greater part of
the regiment of Poictiers, commanded by the Sieur d'Or-
villier, being seized with a panic, retreated and concealed
themselves in a neighbouring wood ; but Mons. de Clodore\
seeing the state of affairs, hurried to the spot, and, being
joined by the officers of the regiment and about thirty of the
common soldiers, whom they had prevailed upon to leave
their concealment, made a second attack upon the house,
and succeeded in forcing an entrance.
A battalion of the English making their appearance upon
the hill behind the house, M. de Clodore* drew off his men
to engage with them, while D'Orvillier and the rest of the
party were left in charge of the edifice. Upon entering,
they found Colonel Quest (who had taken the command of
the island after the seizure of Colonel Carden) seated " in an
arm-chair, with a pair of pistols cocked in his hand," and
surrounded by a few brave English. Colonel Quest de-
manded quarter, to which a Frenchman replied by sending
a ball through his body ; and the rest of the English who
were with him, were slaughtered without mercy.
In justice to M. de Clodore, it must be remarked, that as
soon as he knew of these proceedings, he endeavoured to
put a stop to them, and finally saved the lives of about fifty
English, who had concealed themselves in another part of
the house.
After burning down the edifice, and many others in the
vicinity — which were described as being very handsome ones
— killing fifty of the English, and getting all the plunder
they could, the French proceeded to the beach, carrying
their prisoners, about fifty in number, along with them.
Upon arriving there, it was agreed to ship them immediately,
and despatch them to St. Kitts, with the wounded French-
men, among whom was Baston, the instigator of the attack,
and who afterwards died of his wound at that island.* When
* His tombstone may be still seen in one of the churchyards of St.
Christopher's.
c2
28 DEATH OF COLONEL QUEST.
Colonel Quest was to be carried down to the beach along
with the other prisoners, he was found to be so seriously
wounded, that he was unable to walk ; and consequently,
one of the French officers proposed to despatch him, offering
to do the deed himself. At this barbarous scheme, M. de
Clodorc was justly incensed ; and, ordering a few of his sol-
diers to form a kind of bier, had him carefully conducted on
board the ship that was to carry him to St. Kitts, in which
island he also died.
After getting rid of their prisoners, the French held ano-
ther council of war, when it was resolved to send a trum-
peter, summoning all the inhabitants to surrender, threaten-
ing to set fire to all their property should they demur. A
compliance with this demand appears to have been wholly
unexpected by the French, and their threat of burning only
a species of bravado; for at this council it was resolved, that
if the English held out, they would immediately sail for St.
Christopher's with the whole fleet. Fate, however, willed it
otherwise, and the trumpeter brought answer back, that the
English were willing to accede to their demand, and desired
a place to be appointed in which to treat about the terms of
capitulation. Overjoyed at their unexpected success, the
French named the harbour of St. John's as the place of
treaty ; and accordingly despatched one of their frigates —
the " Armes d* Angleterre," on board of which the confer-
ence was to be held. On the tenth of November, 1666,
M. de Clodorg, M. de Chambre, &c. &c, accompanied 6y
four shallops, containing eighty armed men, proceeded on
board that vessel, and were quickly joined by Lieut.-Colonel
Bastien Baijer, Colonel Buckley, Joseph Lee, Captain Samuel
Winthorp,* Captain Philip Warner, and James Halliday,
who were appointed by the English to sign the capitu-
lation.
All arms, ammunition, forts, batteries, &c, were to be
given up to the French ; but the English were to be allowed
* For account of this gentleman, see Appendix, No. 3.
CAPITULATION OF THE ENGLISH. 29
to retain their property, have free exercise of their religion ;
(except in that immediate district which the French go-
vernor might choose as his quarters ;) and Colonel Garden,
who had been detained prisoner of war on board one of the
enemy's vessels, was to be restored to liberty.
After signing the capitulation, on the 12th of November,
the English deputies despatched Colonel Buckley on board
the iC Armes d' Angleterre," with the information that there
were three hundred soldiers arrived from Barbados, which
would prevent them from fulfilling their part of the treaty ;
but that if the French thought proper to hazard an attack,
they (the deputies) would not interfere.
Upon receiving this message, the greater part of the
French officers were for detaining Colonel Buckley as an
hostage, as well as refusing to liberate Colonel Carden ; but
to this M. de Clodore* would not assent, remarking that as
he had given his word to restore Colonel Carden to liberty,
and Colonel Buckley had come on board under protection
of a flag of truce, they should both be conveyed safely to
land. This was accordingly done the same day ; but Mon-
sieur Giraud, the head commander of St. Kitts, seeing
Colonel Buckley on shore, and not being aware of M. de
la Barre's intentions towards him, had him seized and con-
veyed on board the admiral's ship ; who, being of different
opinion to M. de Clodore, detained him as a hostage ; and
the whole of the French forces having embarked, the fleet
sailed for St. Kitts, where they arrived on the 15th of
November.
After remaining there a few days, M. de Clodore' sailed
for Martinique to transact some necessary business, and then,
accompanied by a fleet of six frigates, returned to Antigua,
to oblige the inhabitants to fulfil the treaty they had signed.
He arrived on the 30th of November, but found the state of
affairs entirely changed, Mr. Willoughby having appointed
Colonel Daniel Fitche, (who upon the former visit of the
French was staying at Nevis,) governor of Antigua, in
30 ARREST OF COLONEL CARDEN.
place of Colonel Car den, and the island being reinforced by
the arrival of some troops from Barbados.
Surprised but not intimidated, M. de Clodore, with the
concurrence of his principal officers, sent a trumpeter to
Colonel Carden, calling upon him to fulfil the treaty, and
oblige the inhabitants to surrender. This message was
received by Colonel Carden in the presence of some of the
English officers ; but the same night, by the order of Colonel
Fitche, (who was displeased at his expressing his opinion, that
it was but equitable to stand by their written contract,) he
was arrested and sent to prison. Upon this occasion, Mrs.
Carden despatched the following letter to M. de Clodore* : —
" Mons.,
" Mon mary cette nuit a este enleve* d'auprls de moy
par deux officers et deux soldats, et ce qu'ils pretendent faire
de moy et des miens, jusqu'a present ie n'en scay encore
rien ; mais en crains qu'il ne nous en arrive mal. Je vous
supplie tres-humbiement, Monsieur, voyant que moy, les
mien, et ma famille est delaissce et abandonee de nostre
nation ; qu'il vous plaise nous prendre sous votre protection,
nous qui n'avons leve* la main ni le coeur contre vous ; et
moy et les miens, et beaucoup d'autres, prieront pour vostre
prosperity et ie prend la hardiesse de me qualifier,
" Monsieur, vostres, &c.
" Marie Carden."*
[N.B. — These letters are literally transcribed.]
* " Sir, — My husband has been arrested by two officers and two soldiers
this night, and what they intend doing with me and my family, I know
not even now ; but I fear that some ill consequences will attend it I
beseech you humbly, Sir, seeing that myself and family are abandoned
by our countrymen, that it may please you to protect us who have never
assailed you ; and myself, and family, and many others, shall pray for
your prosperity ; and I take the boldness to qualify myself,
44 Sir, your very humble and very obedient servant,
*' Mart Carden."
RATIFICATION OF THE TREATY REFUSED. 31
Upon the same day, Colonel Carden despatched the fol-
lowing letter to M. de Clodore* : —
"Monsieur,
" J'aurois eu Phonneur de vous aller trouver, mais
Pay este iutercepte* par ordre de Mons. le Gouverneur Fitche,
et il ne m'a pas este permis de sortir. J'espere, Monsieur,
que ne croirez, ni ne iugerez autre chose de celuy qui prend
la liberte* de se souscrire, — Mons., votres, &c.
" Robert Carden. ,,#
Soon after sending this letter, Colonel Carden was libe-
rated, and immediately proceeding on board the French ship,
delivered himself up to M. de Clodore, and informed him
that Colonel Fitche and his troops were encamped at Pope's
Head. Upon hearing this, M. de Clodore* immediately
weighed anchor, and sailing round the coast, arrived off
Pope's Head the same night. The next morning, the follow-
ing letters were despatched to him from the English camp: —
" Monsieur,
u Nous avons receu vos semonces de venir k bord
delivrant en vostre possession nos armes et munitions de
guerre ; laquelle chose, le changement de nos affaires est tel
depuis vostre depart, qu'il ne vous la peut pas permettre.
Monsieur le Lieut-General de nostre roy ay ant envoye* icy
le Col. Daniel Fitche pour son gouverneur, luy a donne*
pouvoir sur toute la milice de cette isle : si-bien, Mons., que
nous sommes devenus tout-a-fait incapables de vous donner
aucune reponse satisfactoire ; et sur l'examination des affaires
passees, a trouve* qu'eiles estoient beaucoup a notres preiu-
dice ; et en particulier envoyant les Careibes deux fois sur
nous contre Pobligation de vos articles, et les loix des nations,
* " Sir,— I should have had the honour of waiting upon you, but I have
been intercepted by the order of Governor Fitche, and I have been in
custody since. I hope, Sir, you will not believe or think otherwise of
him who takes the liberty of subscribing himself, Sir, yours, &c,
" Robert Carden."
32 CORRESPONDENCE.
des person nes qui sont cruels, tout* a- fait barbares et igno-
rans de Dieu et de toutes civilitez. Neanmoins, Monsieur,
nous vous supplions suivant ce que nous avons d&afait, (Ten
faire vos de man des a nostre dit gouverneur, qui est unique-
men t experimente en matiere de guerre. En attendant nous
demeurons,
" Monsieur, vos tres-humble serviteurs,
" Bastien Bauer, &c. &c."*
" Mons.,
" Nous avons receu ia vostre, k laquelle nous ne pou-
vons a present faire aucune reponse, si non qu'ii n'est pas en
nostre pouvoir de convenir a vos semonces, ni a aucunes
choses cy-devant faites; parce que depuis vostre depart
d'icy, est arrive* le Col. Daniel Fitche, avec commission de
Monsieur le Lieut.-Gen. pour gouverneur, auquel vos se-
monces et demandes doivent estre faites, comme estant seul
commandant de la milice. Nous trouvons que nous avons
receu grand preiudice k la rupture des articles concernans
les Careibes, qui ont deux fois attentc sur nous a leur ma-
tt i ere accoustumge, qui est cruelle et barbarienne. Nous
serions reioiiis de vous voir si le souhaittez ; car on attend
* " Sir, — We have received your summons to come on board to deliver
our arms and ammunition; which thing, such is the change in our
affairs since your departure, as not to permit of our doing. The
lieut -general of our king having sent Colonel Daniel Fitche as his
governor, has given him power over all the militia of this island. Thus,
Sir, we are become entirely unable to give you any satisfactory answer ;
and, upon examination of the transactions which have taken place, we
have found that they were so much to our prejudice, and in particular,
sending the Caribs twice upon us, against the obligation Of your articles
and the laws of nations ; persons who are cruel, entirely barbarous, and
ignorant of God and of all civilities. However, Sir, we pray you, as we
have already done, to address your demands to our governor, who alone
is experienced in matters of war. In the meantime, we remain, yours,
&c. &c,
" Bastien Bauer. Gilbert Gregory.
Philip Warner. Henrt Reynall.
Richard Boraston. Jeremiah Watkins.
Samuel Winthorpe."
COUNCIL OF WAR, 33
icy quinze navires de la Barbade, dont il y en a cinq de
trente pieces de canon ckacun, et deux de soixante, et huit
navires marcbands de vingt a trente pieces de canon, avec
mil soldats du roy vestus de casaques rouges, avec quantite
d'armes : vous presentant vous rendrez service. Nous de-
meurons,
" Monsieur, vos asseurez amis et serviteurs,
" Bastien Bauer, &c. &c.'
V*
Upon receiving these letters, M. de Clodorc held a council
with his officers, the results of which were as follow : —
" As the enemy have made no answer to our summons,
sent three days ago, to fulfil the conditions of the treaty
made with them ; but, on the contrary, they have sent these
letters this morning, in which, after having sought vain pre-
tences of rupture, they declare they are not willing to fulfil
it, and at the same time they have disposed guard-houses
along the coast, and caused several armed persons to oppose
our landing ; it has been found proper to accept the rup-
ture they have made of the treaty, and after having fired a
cannon-ball at them, to land, in order to make them return to
their duty, without paying regard to the letters they have
sent. Besides the absence of Monsieur de la Barre, and the
* " Sir, — We have received your letter, to which we cannot at present
give any other answer, but that it is not in our power to yield to your
summons, nor to agree to anything done before ; because, since your
departure from here, Colonel Daniel Fitche is arrived, with commission
from the lieutenant-general as governor, in obedience to an order from
the king, which has been published. It is to the said governor that your
summons and demands must be addressed, for he is the sole commander
of the militia. We think that we have suffered great injury at the rup-
ture of the articles concerning the Caribs, who attacked us twice in their
wonted manner, which is cruel and barbarous. We would be glad to
see you, if you wish, for we expect here, fifteen ships from Barbados,
^re of which are of fifteen guns each, and two of sixty ; and eight mer-
chantmen, of twenty to thirty guns ; with a thousand of the king's sol-
diers, dressed in their red jackets, and a quantity of arms. By coming,
you will render service. We remain, &c,
" Bastien Bauer, &c. &c."
c3
34 THE ENGLISH AGREE TO RATIFY THE TREATY.
necessity we are in to send back immediately the island troops
to Martinique and Guadaloupe, to oppose the enemy, who,
according to advices received, will soon arrive there, it is
impossible now to keep the island of Antigua for the king.
It has therefore been thought proper to land, attack the
enemy, and, in case of success, place the island in such a
state, that the enemy can draw no sort of profit from it.
" Done unanimously between us, the undersigned, in the
harbour of Antigua, the 3rd December, 1666.
« De Clodore,
Blondel,
HlNSSELIN."
During the period the council was being held, several
armed soldiers, (of the English troops,) impatient to know
what answer would be returned to their letters, appeared
upon the beach ; upon which, according to the resolutions
already passed, a cannon-ball was fired at them, when they
dispersed, and. appeared no more, without a white flag in
their hand. Before the French council broke up, an Eng-
lish officer came on board, bringing the following letter for
M. de Clodore : —
i( Monsieur,
" Nous vous avons envoy 6 ce matin telle reponse que
nous pouvions, estant sous le commandement et autorite de
Mons. le Gouverneur, au pouvoir duquel n'estions pas
capables de resister ; mais depuis que nous iuy avons fait
voir amplement la raison de nostre premier traite et nostre
refus de rompre, avons tant fait qu'il en est demeure* d'ac-
cord, moyennant qu'il y soit, compris comme le reste des
habitans ; le dit traite* et accord sera ponctuellement rati fie
et effectue en toutes fees particularitez.
" Monsieur, vos, &c,
i€ Bastien Bauer, &c. &c. v *
* " Sir, — We have sent this morning the only answer we could give, being
under the command and authority of the governor, to whose power we
LANDING OF THE FRENCH. 35
.But paying no regard to this letter, M. de Clod ore* wrote
them as follows :—
" Messieurs,
" J'ay este* Fort surpris, lorsque j'ay veu que vous n'avez
pas repondu k la sommation que ie vous ay fait faire, et en-
core davantage lorsque i'ay leu la lettre que vous m'avez
envoyee ce matin, ou vous nous accusez de vous avoir* traits
avec rigueur, pour chercher pretexte de rompre comme
vous avez fait, en manquant a vostre foy et a vostre parolle.
Je descends k terre et vous vais trouver, pour vous mettre
a vostre devoir par la voye des armes : ceux qui les pose-
ront, auront de moy bon quartier, et les autres seront traitez
selon la rigueur de la guerre.
" Vostre serviteur,
« De Clodore."*
Immediately after sending this letter, M. de Clodore and
Hinscelin landed with the French forces ; but, upon gaining
the beach, they were met by a party of the English, bear-
ing a flag of truce, and offering, in the name of the inha-
bitants, to give up all pretensions to this island, provided
they would include Governor Fitche in the treaty.
could not resist ; but as we have shewn him the reason of our first treaty,
and our refusal to break it, we have done so much that he has agreed with
us, provided he be included in it, with the rest of the inhabitants : the
said treaty and agreement will be punctually ratified and executed in all
its parts.
" Bastien Bauer, &c. &c."
* «* Gentlemen, — I have been much surprised when I saw that you made
no answer to the summons given you, and much more yet when I read
the letters you sent me this morning, in which you charge us with
having treated you with rigour, which is seeking for a pretence of rup-
ture, as you have done by not keeping your faith and word. I am
landing and coming to you, to teach you your duty by force of arms :
those who will lay down their arms will have good quarter from me, and
the others shall be treated according to the rigour of war. Your
servant,
" De Clodobe."
36 ESCAPE OF COLONEL FITCHE.
To this proposition M. de Clodore* would not assent, but
forming his troops into battle array, marched to attack the
English. The result of this encounter appears to me so
remarkable, that it obliges me again and again to assure my
readers I give the true translation : " marching to attack the
new Governor and his eight or nine hundred men, only two
shots were fired by the English, one of which wounded
their own sentinel, and this was the only blood spilt in this
engagement ; and Governor Fitche hearing that M. de Clo-
dore* was coming up with all his troops, and four pieces of
artillery, ran away in a boat with Colonel Warner and some
others, saying to his soldiers only these words — " God be
with me, and with you."
Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the
French, following the steps of their own historian, " Du
Tertre," who of course speaks in favour of his own country-
men. Antigua remained a French colony, although of no use
to the nation, except from the plunder obtained from it, until
the following year, when by the treaty of Breda, Louis XIV.
restored it to the English crown.* The French appear to have
ever doubted their success ; and their attack upon Antigua,
in the first instance, seemed only intended as a feint ; but by
one of those extraordinary accidents, which we often meet
* It was for some time pending in the mind of Louis XIV. whether
he should, or should not, restore Antigua to its rightful sovereign ; and
several letters passed between the King of the French and his am-
bassador, Count D'Estrade, (the deputy from Zealand assuring the count
that he would use his influence to retain Antigua for his majesty, should
such be his wish,) upon the subject. At length, however, Louis XIV.,
after much hesitation, authorized its rendition by a letter to Count
D'Estrade, dated 6th May, 1667, of which the following is a trans-
lation : —
" I have always forgotten to inform you, and even to put it in your in-
structions, that it is my intention to surrender the island of Antigua to
the English, which belonged to them before the war. Thus you will
make no difficulty by promising, by the treaty (of Breda), that all things
shall be established in the island of St. Christopher, and that of Antigua,
as they were previously to the rupture,** &c.
*.
MURDER OF COLONEL CARDEN. 37
with in the annals of nations, the island was reduced, and in
the second attack, if we may believe Du Tertre, only two
shots were fired in its defence.
At the period of this conquest of Antigua, there were about
800 negroes upon the island, but of these the French could
only find about 500, which they carried away with them,'along
with their plunder. The after fate of Colonel Garden was
truly shocking. Soon after the French had abandoned
Antigua, a party of Caribs landed, and cruelly treated the
defenceless inhabitants. At length they proceeded to the
house of the ex-governor, Colonel Carden, who treated them
very kindly, and administered to their want. Upon their
leaving, they requested their entertainer to accompany them
to the beach, who instantly complied ; but the Caribs, more
treacherous than the wild beasts that haunt the desert, had
no sooner reached the place where their canoes were stationed,
than they fell upon their kind host, cruelly murdered him,
and broiled his head, which they afterwards carried with
them to Dominica. Nor were they satisfied with this hor-
rible piece of barbarity ; for, to make the tragedy complete,
they returned to Colonel Carden's house, seized his wife and
children, and after telling them of the fate of their kind re-
lative, hurried them away into a captivity worse than death.
The Bastian Baijer — whose name appears conspicuous in
signing the capitulation, and in the after letters which passed
between the English and the French — was of Dutch ex-
traction, and one who emigrated to this island at an early
period of its colonization. He died in London, in the year
1704, and in his will directed that his remains should be in-
terred in the vaults of the Dutch church in Austin Friars,
which was accordingly done. Many of the descendants (or
rather representatives, for Bastian Baijer died without issue,
and left his property to the person who assumed his name) of
Bastian Baijer have resided in the island until within a
year or two. The remains of one member of that family,
Otto Baijer, Esq., moulders beneath the beautiful tomb, a
38 LORD WILLIAM WILLOUGHBY.
description of which will be found in Chapter XV. ; and the
remaining scion of the house, a female, was shortly since
united to the Hon. Owen Pell, of Antigua, and of Suwell,
county of Northampton.
CHAPTER IV.
Governors : Lord William Willoughby— Henry Willoughby — Arrival of
Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of the
family of that name — Biographical remarks — Partition of the Oaribbee
Islands — Sir William Stapleton — General Council and Assembly —
Colonel Philip Warner — Expedition against the Caribs — Death of
Indian Warner — Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner — Acquittal —
Dampier's account of this affair— Captain Southey's History of the
Indian Warner.
After peace had been once more proclaimed between France
and England, and Antigua restored to its rightful sovereign,
the English government, being fully assured of the death of
Lord Francis Willoughby, appointed Lord William Wil-
loughby, of Parham, (who when the royalists rose against
the parliament, after the deposition of Richard Cromwell,
undertook to secure Lynn for his exiled majesty,) Captain-
General and chief Governor of Barbados, Antigua, and the
rest of the Leeward Caribbee Islands, as some reward for his
services.
Lord William Willoughby arrived at Antigua about 1668,
and appointed Samuel Winthorpe his deputy-governor.
During the first year of his lordship's administration, a regis-
trar's office was established, and fees appointed for the same.
The registrar and recorder was to be u a person of good discre-
tion and honesty," and his salary paid in sugar and tobacco.*
* The French having entirely ruined Antigua, it was necessary to
form all new regulations, as at the first settlement of the colony.
GENERAL HENRY WILLOUGHBY. 39
Acts were also passed for the " settling the inhabitants in
their lands/' and " for the encouragement and promoting the
settling of the island" — very necessary measures, as all was
in confusion, from the late cruel dealing of the French, in so
dismantling their promising colony. This year also (1668)
commenced the four and a half per cent, duty ; which was
an impost upon all native productions shipped from the
island, to be paid to the reigning monarch, his heirs, and
successors, in consideration of new grants of lands being
given to the inhabitants after the restoration of Antigua to
the English crown ; all old titles to lands having become void
by reason of the late conquest, by the French.
Lord William Willoughby removing to Barbados about
this time, nominated his son, Henry Willoughby, as acting-
governor, the same gentleman who was left by. Lord F. Wil-
loughby deputy-governor of Barbados during his absence
upon the disastrous expedition already spoken of. Nothing
of much importance occurred during the short period Mr.
H. Willoughby held the government. War had not broken
out in the West Indies, although it threatened the mother
country, so that the Antiguans had a little quiet to settle
their domestic affairs. One of the first points to which they
turned their attention was to endeavour to suppress the strong
habit of profane cursing and swearing which had crept in
among their community, and also to put a stop to the pre-
valence of inebriety. To bring this desirable reformation
about, the legislature enacted, that a fine of ten pounds of
sugar, or tobacco, was to be imposed upon every one who
uttered an oath, or opened his lips to curse ; and if any one
was discovered in a state of intoxication, he could be made
to pay fifty pounds of sugar, or not being able to procure
that quantity, and being possessed of no other property which
could be levied upon, he was condemned to be placed in
the public stocks for the space of four hours. It would be
well if something of the kind was in force now ; our ears
40 LIEUTENANT-GENERAL BYAM.
would not then, perhaps, be so frequently shocked as they are
liable to be at every hour of the day by the passers-by.
Regulations were also made for establishing a public treasury
in the island, and regard paid to the martial bearing of the
inhabitants, by exercising them in the science of arms.
Among the settlers who came to Antigua with Francis
Lord Wi Hough by, of Parham, was William Byam, a dis-
tinguished royalist, at that time major, but who afterwards
acquired the rank of lieutenant-general.
In 1644, Mayor Byam was among the officers in garrison
at Bridgewater, and being on guard when an attempt was
made by the parliamentary army to take the town by sur-
prise, he defeated the forces with great slaughter, thereby
averting for some time the fate of that important fortress.
On the following year, Cromwell and Fairfax coming against
Bridgewater with an overwhelming power, after a gallant
and desperate resistance, the town was taken, and quarter
only given to the garrison. The officers were immediately
sent to London, and put at the disposal of the Parliament,
whence they were despatched to the Tower, and other
public prisons. After remaining in the Tower for some
months, Major Byam accepted a pass " to go beyond the
seas," (as the term then was,) and, with some of his military
friends, he accordingly left the home of his fathers, and
sought in Barbados — that last asylum for royalists — a
retreat from the Oliverian power. Soon after his arrival,
the important post of " treasurer of the island," as well as
" master of the ordnance/ : was conferred upon him, together
with large grants of land; but the number of refugees in-
creasing in the colony to such a surprising height, the Par-
liament became alarmed, and, in 1651, sent a fleet and ar-
mament, under command of Sir George Ayscue, to reduce
the island. There being a defection in the garrison, owing
to the withdrawal of Colonel Thomas Modiford from the
side of the king, after a resistance of six months, the gover-
nor, Lord Francis Willoughby, of Parham, was compelled to
VIC1SSITUDE8 OF FORTUNE. 41
think of terms ; and accordingly he appointed, along with
three other commissioners, Major Byam to negotiate a sur-
render. This gentleman and his coadjutors performed their
parts so ably, that they obtained from the admiral terms
allowed by all historians as alike " comprehensive and
honourable." Indeed, when they were reported to England,
though the Parliament did not refuse to ratify them, yet,
considering them much too favourable, they never after-
wards countenanced Sir George Ayscue. The very first
act of the Parliament possession, contrary to the tenor of
some of the articles, was to banish Mayor Byam and the
other commissioners, and about ten more of the royalists,
including Lord Willoughby himself. Major Byam retired
to the then newly-founded settlement of Surinam, which
being composed chiefly of the refugee followers of Charles,
they, in those times of turmoil, elected him, by united suf-
frages, governor of the colony in 1654. In this situation
he- continued for six successive years, although Cromwell
had despatched an officer of his own to take the command,
being elected by universal voice, until the Restoration,
when, in virtue of the proclamation at that time issued, he
became governor for the crown. He was afterwards more
formally confirmed in this appointment, in which he re-
mained until the removal of the colony (or at least a
large portion of it) to the island of Antigua, in virtue of
the treaty of Breda, in 1 667. Of this island he also became
an early governor, as is still to be seen by many documents
in the registrar's office, and resumed to himself that property
which he had before acquired when on a visit to the island
with Francis Lord Willoughby in 1650 ; and now, by letters
patent for the crown, under date April, 1668, 20th Charles
II., among the estates of Lieutenant-General Byam renewed
to him at this period, were the present Cedar Hill and his
Willoughby Bay estate.*
* For a farther account of this gentleman's family, see Appendix,
No. 4.
42 PARTITION OF THE ISLANDS.
In 1672, his majesty Charles II. deemed it proper to make
some alteration in the affairs of the West Indies. Hitherto
all the Caribbee Islands were united under one government,
but after the return of Lord William Willoughby to Eng-
land, the king entered into fresh arrangements with the
colonies, appointed him captain-general of Barbados, St.
Lucia, St. Vincent's and Dominica ; and Sir William Staple-
ton captain-general and commander-in-chief of Antigua and
the other Leeward Islands. This Windward Island's separa-
tion continues at the present time, after undergoing many
changes, by having their own particular governor ; as far as
regards Barbados, St Lucia, and St. Vincent's. Dominica
has at length been united with Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis,
St. Christopher's, Anguilla, Tortola, and the Virgin Islands,
which now form the Leeward Caribbee government.
During the general government, a general council and
assembly was held at either of the islands whenever the
legislature deemed any important matter rendered it neces-
sary to convene them; but the respective islands in the
government, however, retained each their laws as regarded
local circumstances. When the commander-in-chief found
it necessary for the public good to call together this general
council and assembly, the freeholders of each island met
together and made choice of five eligible inhabitants to act
as their representatives.
The convening of this general council and assembly ac-
counts for the affairs of these different islands being wound
up together, and laws which were passed at the one, an-
swering, in many instances, for the others.
• Sir William Stapleton preferring Nevis, he made that
island the seat of government, and Colonel Philip Warner
(Sir Thomas Warner's son by his second wife) was ap-
pointed governor of Antigua. A very necessary precaution
was adopted about this time — namely, the preventing per-
sons wandering about cane-pieces, with lighted torches,
hunting for land-crabs. If a free person was found so
LAW8 AND REGULATIONS. 43
offending, the culprit was to pay into the public treasury
one thousand pounds of sugar or tobacco ; or if a slave, he
was to be publicly whipped. This very dangerous practice
continues to this day in seasons when the land-crabs are
upon their travels, and certainly ought to meet with some
punishment. So careless and thoughtless are the negroes,
that large pieces of fire are frequently dropped upon the
road while thus employed, which they never think of ex-
tinguishing; and as the scene of their exploits is generally
in the vicinity of cane-pieces, where there is often a large
quantity of dry cane-leaves, called in the country idiom,
trash, serious accidents might, and indeed have been the
result.
It was also deemed advisable to ordain that marriages
solemnized by the governor, council, or any justice of peace,
should, in absence of beneficed clergymen from the island,
be adjudged equally binding and lawful, as if the ceremony
had been performed by an orthodox minister. This was a
regulation very necessary in that early period, when there
was as yet no established church erected, or any clergymen
officiating in the colony ; and, consequently, marriages were
obliged to be celebrated by a civil power. It was also
enacted by the legislature this year (1672), that slaves killed
or maimed, while acting in defence of the country, should
have their value ascertained by arbitration, and the amount
paid over to their owners from the public treasury.
In 1674, the inhabitants of Antigua presented an address
to the captain-general, Sir William Stapleton, praying him
to grant them a commission <' to kill and destroy the Indians
inhabiting the island of Dominica/ 1
From the period when Antigua was first settled by the
English, the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in
the constant habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the
most fearful and horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants.
So frequent and barbarous were these attacks, that the
colony at one time was in danger of being abandoned ; and
44 EXPEDITION AGAINST THE CARIBS.
nothing but firm and vigorous measures on the part of the
English could restrain the fury of their Indian adversaries,
and quell their turbulent assaults.
As soon, therefore, as his excellency, Sir William Staple-
ton, acceded to the request of the Antiguans in granting a
commission, a large party of volunteers was formed, aided
by some of the settlers from the neighbouring islands, of
which, at the earnest entreaties of the council and assembly
of Antigua, Governor Philip Warner took the command.
They immediately proceeded to Dominica; and however
different historians may relate the events of this action, they
all concur in stating, that the English .obtained a most
signal victory over their Indian foes. In this fray the
illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Warner, by a Carib woman
— who was generally known by the name of Thomas War-
ner, or " Indian Warner," and who is said to have headed
the Indians in many of their attacks upon the English — fell,
as it is supposed, by the hands of his half-brother, Philip
Warner, the governor of Antigua. Whether this deed was
done by open warfare, or by treacherous means, is uncertain ;
but, upon the return of Colonel Philip Warner, the gover-
nor, to Antigua, after the reduction of the Caribs, the cir-
cumstances of the death of Indian Warner were inquired into
either by Sir William Stapleton or Lord Willoughby, the
results of which were, that Colonel Philip Warner was sent
to England to stand his trial for the murder of his half-
brother. After being kept in the Tower of London for
some time, Colonel Warner was placed on board the Phoenix
frigate, and despatched to Barbados, in order that he might
be tried in the Court of Oyer and Terminer in that island.
This resolution, on the part of the home government, was
no sooner known in Antigua, than a strong remonstrance
was drawn up in the name of the inhabitants, and after being
signed by sixteen of the most influential men among the
legislature, was transmitted to the justices for the trial of
Colonel Warner at Barbados, setting forth the facts, that it
INDIAN WARNER. 45
was only through the most earnest prayer of the Antiguans,
and not from any private motives of his own, that he was
induced to take the command upon the attack of the Caribs,
in which action the Indian Warner fell. The facts of this
case being fully investigated, Colonel Warner was honour-
ably acquitted, his lands,* which he had quietly yielded up on
being sent to England for trial, were restored, and he wasagain.
permitted to exercise the functions of governor of Antigua.
It certainly appears rather extraordinary that Colonel
Warner should have stood his trial for this massacre of the
Indians, when we find, that for more than fifty years after
this occurrence, the Caribs were still hunted and destroyed
as so many reptiles ; but Indian Warner was one who ranked
rather high in the opinion of Lord William Willoughby, and
probably that nobleman felt incensed at his death. Many
are the opinions of writers upon this subject. While some
look upon Colonel Warner as the unjustified murderer of
his half-brother ; others are led to palliate the circumstances
on the plea of Indian Warner being the chief actor in those
cruel Carib attacks, which were generally made upon un-
armed Englishmen, or their defenceless wives and children.
Dampier, one of the greatest navigators among the Buc-
caneers, (before that name had acquired a dread from the
lawless and bloody deeds its chieftains committed,) visited
Antigua about the period of Indian Warner's death ; and in
his history of his voyages he has the following passage : —
"About this time (1674) the Caribbees had done some
spoil on our English plantations at Antego, and therefore
Governor Warner's son by his wife took a party of men, and
went to suppress these Indians, and came to the place where
his brother Indian Warner lived. Great seeming joy there
was at their meeting, but how far real the event shewed ; for
the English Warner, providing plenty of liquor, and inviting
his half-brother to be merry with him, in the midst of his
* For copy of the Grant of Land to Colonel P. Warner, see Appen-
dix, No. 5.
46 indian warner's death.
entertainment, ordered his men, upon a signal given, to
murder him and all his Indians, which was accordingly per-
formed. The reason of this inhuman action is diversely
reported. Some say that this Indian Warner committed all
the spoil that was done to the English, and for that reason
his brother killed him and his men. Others, that he was a
great friend to the English, and would not suffer his men to
hurt them, but did all that lay in his power to draw them to
an amicable commerce ; and that his brother killed him be-
cause he was ashamed to be related to an Indian. But, be
it how it may, he was called in question for the murder, and
forced to come home, and take his trial in England. Such
perfidious doings as these, besides the baseness of them, are
great hindrances of our gaining interest among the Indians."
Captain Southey, in his " Chronological History of the
West Indies," writing of the events of 1674, says — " Sir
Thomas Warner's son went with an expedition to suppress
the Caribs, who were headed by his half-brother, his father's
son by a Carib woman. He was received in a friendly
manner by his relative. In the middle of the repast, upon a
signal given, the Caribs were attacked and all massacred.
Different reasons are given for this act of atrocity : one,
that the Indian Warner committed all the ravages upon the
English ; another, that the murderer was ashamed of his
Indian relations." Evidently Captain Southey took Dampier
for his guide in relating this circumstance ; and other authors,
following in the wake, have handed Colonel Warner down to
posterity, in the character of a fratricide. But before his
actions are discussed, it would be well to lay aside all pre-
viously formed opinions, and, horrible as fratricide must ap-
pear to all, calmly take a retrospect of the great cruelties
practised by the Caribs on the persons of the English, which
led to the melancholy incident already narrated.* Before
* Oldmixon, in his " British America," says : — " At this time (1676)
there -was a wicked practice in the West Indies, of which the English
are accused ; and that was, their stealing and enslaving Indians, which
HIS HISTORY. 47
concluding this subject, it will be necessary to mention some
further particulars of the Indian Warner, the half-brother,
of whose death Colonel Philip Warner was made amenable.
At the latter end of 1629, after having the honour of
knighthood conferred upon him by Charles I., Sir Thomas
Warner returned from England to St. Christopher's. Soon
after his arrival, he entered into a league with the French
settlers and Mons. D'Esnambuc, the captain of a French pri-
vateer ; and, falling upon the Caribs by night, murdered in
cold blood one hundred and twenty of the men.* The
females they parted among themselves, and one of the hand-
somest of them fell to the share of Sir Thomas Warner, f by
they took on the continent or the islands. And one Colonel Warner
being charged with this unlawful traffic — if it deserves that name — was
made a prisoner in England, and sent, aboard the Phoenix frigate, to
Barbados, to take his trial there ; but he found so many friends, that he
came off."
* Oldmixon, in his History of St Christopher's, speaking of this cir-
cumstance, says — " They (the Caribs) were willing enough to live
peaceably with the Europeans who first landed there, and were upon the
place when D'Esnambuc came thither; but, upon his landing, their
boyez, or conjurers, telling them, in a general assembly met on purpose,
that the foreigners were come to take away their country from them,
and destroy them root and branch, it was resolved to massacre the
English." He goes on to state, that the English and French, having
gained intelligence of the Caribs' design to cut their throats, " fell upon
the most factious of the natives by night, killed them, and drove the rest
out of the island."
f Labat mentions seeing this woman at Dominica, and gives the fol-
lowing account of her : — " This old savage woman is, I think, the oldest
creature in the world, being more than a hundred years old. They say
she had been very handsome, and on account of her beauty the English
governor at St. Kitts kept her for a considerable time. She had a
number of children, among which was one called Ouverard. [ Warner,
it ought to be; but Pierre du Tertre is not very particular in his orthography
of English names.'] Pierre du Tertre speaks of him in his history ; but
this demi-savage was dead before I came to the West Indies. They
always continue to call her Madam Ouverard. After the English sent
her to Dominica upon the death of the governor, she was more re-
spected for her old age than from being his mistress. Her property was
rather extensive, and was entirely peopled by her children's children.
48 HISTORY OF INDIAN WARNER.
whom she had a son, a remarkably fine and intelligent lad.
About the year 1645, when he was fifteen years old,* an old
Carib man, who, by some chance, had remained upon the
island after the expulsion of his countrymen, informed the
boy of the former cruelties of the English to his mother's
relations — a tale which so exasperated him, that he was de-
termined to escape, the first opportunity, and join his Carib
friends. At length he effected his purpose, and fled to Do-
minica,f where the Caribs had taken up their abode after
being driven from St. Christopher's. So pleased were the
Indians with this display of spirit on the part of their young
relative, that they received him with open arms, looked upon
him as their chief, shared with him all their predatory booty,
and followed him in all his expeditions. In 1664, Lord
Francis Willoughby appointed this half-Carib (who bore the
name of Thomas Warner) governor of Dominica, then in-
habited by Indians. In this situation he remained until 1666,
when he was captured by the French, and carried prisoner
to St. Christopher's, (some authors say Guadaloupe,) where
he met with very harsh treatment, and was not liberated
until after the peace, and then only at the earnest interposi-
tion of Lord William Willoughby. After his liberation, he
appears to have carried on his warfare with the English
colonists, until, as already mentioned, 1674, when he met
his fate in about the forty-fourth year of his age.
As perhaps it may be interesting to some of my readers
to look over the « Remonstrance" alluded to as drawn up by
the members of the Antigua legislature in 1676, when
Colonel Philip Warner was tried for the murder of his half-
brother — I have inserted it in the Appendix, (No. 6.)
This old woman was entirely naked, and had not two dozen hairs upon
her head ; her skin resembled old parchment completely dried up, as if
baked. She was so crooked that I could not see her features except
when she went to drink water. She had a good many teeth in her head,
and her eyes were perfectly clear."
* Some writers make it sixteen.
f Dampier says St Lucia.
A WISE GOVERNOR. 49
CHAPTER V.
Governor Col. R. Williams — Biographical remarks — Towns of trade
appointed — Antigua divided into parishes — Sir Nathaniel Johnson
appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief — Colonel Codring-
ton — Remarks upon this family— Invasion of Antigua by a French
privateer — Attack upon Guadaloupe by the English — Expedition to
St. Christopher's — Gallant conduct of Colonel Williams and Colonel
Willoughby Byam — Sir Francis Wheeler's expedition — Wilmot
and Lillingston's expedition— Death of the captain-general, General
Codrington — Colonel John Yeamans, lieutenant-governor — Arrival
of Admiral Benbow.
In 1675, Colonel Rowland Williams was appointed lieu-
tenant-governor (or, as the phrase then was, deputy-governor)
of Antigua. This gentleman was possessed of eminent
qualifications, which honourably distinguished him among
his cotemporaries. He was alike conspicuous as a wise
councillor and a skilful commander ; whether in the senate
or the field, he equally merited applause. The father of
Colonel Williams (as will be seen in the genealogy of this
family) was one of the earliest settlers in Antigua, and even
in those times was famed for noble virtues — virtues which
have descended from father to son, down to the present day,
and centered themselves in the person of the Hon. Rowland
E. Williams, the present possessor of " Claremont," the
family mansion.*
During the administration of Colonel Rowland Williams
as governor of Antigua, six towns were appointed as places
of trade, instead of two, as was the former custom. These
towns were Falmouth, St. John's, Bridge Town, Carlisle
Road, Parham Landing Place, and Berraudian Valley. In
these different towns all business was to be transacted as
relates to shipping, &c. ; and no vessel was allowed to un-
load or sell their cargo at any other place, under punish-
ment of forfeiting their goods. This, however, did not
* For the Genealogy of the Williams family, see Appendix, No. 7.
VOL. I. D
50 THE ISLAND DIVIDED INTO PARISHES.
debar any freeholder from disposing of his own personal
property or merchandise at any place in the island he
deemed proper.
It does not appear at what particular period a secretary
and a marshal were appointed ; but in 1677 an act was passed
relating unto such officers.
In 1680, provisions were made for settling the militia,
and for ensuring a better martial discipline throughout the
island.
Antigua was divided into parishes about 1681, which then
consisted of five — namely, Falmouth, Rendezvous Bay, and
part of Willoughby Bay, to be the parish of St. Paul's ; the
remaining part of Willoughby Bay, Nonsuch, and Belfast,
to be the parish of St. Philip's ; divisions of New and Old
North Sound to be the parish of St. Peter's ; the divisions
of Pope's Head, Dickerson's Bay, St. John's, and Five
Islands, to be the parish of St. John's ; and the divisions of
the Road and Bermudian Valley to be the parish of St.
Mary's. Churches were also ordered to be erected, and all
parochial charges to be raised from the inhabitants of each
parish. The yearly salary of their ministers was 1 6, 0001 bs.
of sugar or tobacco, which was paid to them on the 24th
day of June, being the feast of St. John the Baptist.
The following year (1682) an expedition was despatched
to act against the Indians of Dominica.
His Majesty Charles II. having departed this life, Sir
William Stapleton proclaimed his successor, James II. with
great pomp, at Nevis. An old writer gives a long account
of the ceremonies observed upon that day — of the gorgeous
festival which succeeded, and the splendid attire of the go-
vernor; but as this work is strictly confined to Antigua, such
detail will be superfluous.
In 1684, during the administration of Sir William Staple-
ton, slaves were annexed to freeholds, and could be voted
upon, the same as a freehold, or levied upon for distress. In
illustration of this, a person possesses a family of slaves — say
SIR NATHANIEL JOHNSON. 51
the mother and five or six children, the youngest in arms and
drawing its daily nutriment from its parent; the owner of these
slaves falls into difficulties — he owes a certain sum, and his cre-
ditor takes out an execution against him. The value of the
negro woman covers, perhaps, the amount of debt, and accord-
ingly she is seized, carried away, and sold, probably to a
third or even a fourth person, and her baby and other children
are severed from her, and she left alone. Oh! slavery,
slavery, how dost thou debase the sons of men !
Sir William Stapleton dying, King James appointed Sir
Nathaniel Johnson, governor- in- chief, who continued to
act as such until the first year of the reign of William and
Mary, when he retired to America, and was succeeded in the
government by Colonel Christopher Codrington in 1689.*
Colonel Codrington was so indefatigable in planting and
cultivating the sugar-cane in Antigua, that he has been
termed the patron of the island. This gentleman removed
from Barbados to Antigua in 1674 ; when he purchased a
large quantity of land, and formed the first sugar estate
upon the island, and, sending for his wife and children, con-
stituted himself one of its earliest planters. The Codrington
family is of old extraction, and many a brave warrior has
sprang from that source, as British history will shew.f
About the first year of Colonel Codrington's, government, in
1689, the fortifications at Monk Hill were commenced ; but
they appear not to have been carried on with any degree of
spirit until 1705. This year the crew of a French privateer
landed at Five Islands' Bay, and burnt and plundered the
surrounding country ; and carried away with them several
negroes, besides much spoil. The Antiguans, highly in-
censed at this invasion, placed a small force on board an
armed vessel under command of Captain Walter Hamilton,.
«nd pursued the enemy. This plan succeeded, and they
* Sir Nathaniel Johnson was appointed, in 1704, Governor of Caro-
lina. — Vide History of Carolina,
f For further particulars of this family, vide Appendix, No. 8.
d2
52 ARRIVAL OF SIR T. THORNHILL.
returned to Antigua with the privateer as a prize ; on board
of which were some Irishmen, who were hung as a warning
to others.
The English government was greatly annoyed at these
repeated attacks upon her West .Indian colonies ; and Wil-
liam III. made it one of his complaints against the French
king upon declaring war with that monarch. Supposing
that, after this war was declared, the French would be more
active in their incursions, the inhabitants of Antigua de-
termined to keep better watch. Sir Timothy Thornhill
arriving with troops, all military affairs were delegated to
him ; and by his orders, guards were stationed at all the
bays, and a constant look-out kept. Still the Caribs and a
few Frenchmen managed to effect a landing, by sailing up
some of the creeks, and killed ten of the inhabitants, and
plundered some provision grounds. It was thought proper
to appoint some reward for soldiers acting valiantly in de-
fence of the island ; and to make some provision for the
grounded, and allowance for the widows and children of the
slain. If any white servant shewed deeds of valour, and
could obtain a certificate of such from the hands of his officer,
that servant was freed,* the country paying to his master a
sum proportionate to his services. If wounded they were to
receive medical attendance and maintenance free of charge;
if disabled, to receive yearly 30001bs. of sugar for life ; and
if killed, their widows were to have the same amount of
* The persons to whom these rewards were given, owed their resi-
dence in Antigua to the following cause : — To increase the white popu-
lation, great encouragement was given to persons importing white pro-
testant men-servants into the island, paying to the importer to much per
head from the public treasury. These white servants were sold for a
certain number of years, and at the end of that time they became free,
and were incited to settle, by having small grants of land given to them.
Every proprietor was obliged to have one of these white servants to s#
many slaves ; and they were to be furnished with clothes and arms, and
to serve in the militia. It was customary to sell them upon hogsheads,
which I shall have further occasion to mention when I come to treat of
the white inhabitants.
ATTACK UPON GUADALOUPE. 53
sugar, and the children to be taken care of, and supported
by the country. The owners of those slaves who fell in
defence of the country, were also recompensed, by having
50001bs. of sugar paid them from the public stock for every
negro killed or mortally wounded, instead of having such
slaves valued by arbitration, as was the plan from the year
1672. Regulations were also gone into by the legislature,
for the establishing of courts of law, and settling due me-
thods for the distribution of justice throughout the colony.
About the middle of this year (1689) Colonel Hewetson,
with a party of men, embarked on board a man of war, and
sailed to attack Guadaloupe. They landed with but little
opposition, and having obtained some plunder, and given the
French a kind of tit-for~tat t returned in safety to Antigua.
This was a very busy year for the Antiguans ; for no sooner
had Colonel Hewetson reached Antigua with his troops, from
the late attack, than they raised 300 men, and sailed to the
island of Marie Galante. Here they met with like success
in the way of retaliation ; beating the inhabitants, burning
their town, and obtaining more plunder. From Marie Ga-
lante they proceeded to St. Martin's, where Fortune, that
usually fickle goddess, did not forsake them ; for they not
only plundered the place and increased their spoils, but
drove the French completely off the island. Upon their
return, General Codrington (for the governor had arrived to
this rank) sent three sloops, with eighty men, under the
command of Captain Edward Thorn, to the island of An-
guila, to bring from thence all the English who resided there ;
they having been very cruelly used by some Irishmen, whom
the French had landed there, for that purpose, a year before.
1690 was again ushered in by that demon — War. Louis,
that ambitious, but admired monarch, encouraged his sub-
jects to invade the English colonies, in the West Indies and
America, while he assisted James, the abdicated sovereign,
in his attempts upon England and Ireland. General Cod-
rington was warmly attached to the reigning monarchs, Wil-
54 GALLANT CONDUCT OP
liam and Mary, and consequently endeavoured on all occa-
sions to further their interest in the West Indies. No sooner
had accounts arrived at Antigua of the battle of the Boyne,
and William's victory over the French troops upon that
eventful day, than the governor determined to strike a blow
for the honour of England. Admiral Wright arriving with
a strong squadron of men of war, General Codrington pre-
vailed upon all the other Leeward Islands to raise forces to
endeavour to retake St. Kitt*s, which had fallen to the
French king some time before, by the fortunes of war. An-
tigua, never behind the other islands in warlike deeds, raised
a body of 400 (or, as some authors make it, 800) men,
which were placed under the command of that gallant officer,
Colonel Rowland Williams, and 200 gentlemen volunteers,
under command of Colonel Willoughby Byam, who served
as a body-guard to the governor-general, Christopher
Codrington ; and, by dint of prowess, their object was
gained, for not only did they oblige the French to surren-
der the island, but, according to some authors, actually trans-
ported about eighteen hundred of them to St. Domingo and
Martinique.* A general council and assembly was held
this year, and an agent and commissioners appointed for the
negotiation and management of the affairs of the Leeward
Islands, as well as the raising and settling a proper fund for the
defraying the expense of the same. Rewards were also given
to the soldiers who acted valiantly in the late expedition.
• Extract from the London Gazette, No. 2602, published by autho-
rity, from Thursday, Ootober 16th, to Monday, October 20th, 1690,
giving an account of the capture of St Christopher's, the forces for
which service arrived in Frigate Bay, in that island, 20th June ; the
French offered to surrender on the 12th July, and articles agreed to on
the 14th July:—
" Colonel Byam was dangerously wounded in the neck."
Extract from "London Gazette,' 1 4th to 8th September, 1690. No.
2590 :— " Bermudas, July 24th.
" On the 20th June, the English arrived at St. Christopher's, consist-
ing of eleven men of war, besides fire-ships and tenders, and other
COLONELS WILLIAMS AND BYAM. 55
The following year (1691) passed in quietness. The
French were too much taken up with their European en-
gagements to have much force in the West Indies ; and
Admiral Wright, cruizing about these seas, intimidated the
few privateers still lurking about. It was deemed necessary by
the legislature this year to enact a law, obliging all the mem-
bers of the assembly to serve in such capacity when elected.
The year 1692 was chiefly passed in settling island business,
and making laws to redress several grievances which were
severely felt by the inhabitants. One of these was as follows :
after the reduction of this island, and its restoration to the
English in 1667, a great many persons pretended to have a
right to large portions of land, by virtue of grants prior to the
war, but which they had failed to cultivate. The consequence
of this was, that the country was rapidly going to ruin ; and
the only way to avert it was, by government granting
these lands to more industrious persons, as an encouragement
to them to settle. When, after a lapse of time, the former
possessors found their barren and uncultivated lands turned
into profitable estates, they came forward and claimed them
as their own ; and so annoying were these threatenings to
those who had worked the change, that although they had
spent both time and money, they preferred leaving the
island, and seeking some other home. To rectify this, it
was determined by the legislature this year, that all persons
who possessed lands by grants from government should be
confirmed in the same, providing they had held them for five
vessels, under command of Captain Wright, who was himself in the
Mary of 64 guns, and 450 men. These ships had on board 3000 land
forces — viz., 700 English soldiers, commanded by Colonel Holt ; 800
Nevis and Barbados soldiers, commanded by Sir Timothy Thornhill ;
800 Antigua, commanded by Colonel Rowland Williams ; 400 Montser-
rat men, commanded by Colonel Blackstone, and 200 gentlemen volun-
teers, commanded by Colonel Willoaghby Byam, which served as a life
guard to Colonel Codrington, governor of the Leeward Islands, and
general on this expedition. The conduct of which forces was much
commended in the second Gazette from 16th to 20th October."
56 Sir f. wheeler's expedition :
years. Still, that justice might be equally imparted to all,
if the former possessors put in their claim within two years,
and it was allowed by a jury that they had a right to the
same, they could demand the value of their lands as they
were when they left them. A vestry was this year elected,
churchwardens appointed, and a parish register ordered to
be kept in each of the parishes in the island. In this
register, all christenings, marriages, and burials were to be
entered, under penalty of 51. currency, the fee for which
was 9d. currency each. An act was also passed for the
settling of general councils and assemblies.
The next year (1693) was celebrated for the endeavours
of the Antiguans to destroy the remaining Caribs ; and for
this reason, great encouragement was given to those persons
who fitted out privateers to destroy them and take their
canoes. In the early part of the year, Sir Francis Wheeler
arrived at Barbados, with an expected squadron of English
men-of-war, intended for an attack upon the island of Mar-
tinique, when intelligence was immediately despatched to
Antigua, in order that General Codrington might join him
with the Antigua and other Leeward Island troops. In this
expedition, Sir Francis Wheeler commanded the men-of-
war, (on board of which were Colonel Foulks and Colonel
Godwin's regiments of foot, and 200 recruits, under com-
mand of Colonel Lloyd,) and Colonel Foulks the land forces.
On the 30th of March, the fleet left Barbados, having on board
two Barbados' regiments, which, including the gentlemen-
volunteers, consisted of about 1500 men, and arrived at
Martinique on the 1st of April.
The fleet anchored in the Cul de Sac Marine, on the south
side of the island ; and Sir Francis Wheeler, attended by
Colonel Foulks and Colonel Lloyd, went in a boat to search
for a good landing-place for the troops. Their movements
were, however, watched by a party of French guards, one of
whom fired a musket, the shot of which striking Sir Francis
upon the breast, occasioned a severe contusion. The next
UNSATISFACTORY CONCLUSION. 57
morning, Colonel Foulks landed 1500 men without opposi-
tion ; and during the day, the whole of the forces were
gathered together on shore, where they commenced the work
of destruction by burning the houses and sugar-works, the
inhabitants fleeing for safety into the woods.
In the course of the few following days, General Codring-
ton joined the expedition with the Antigua and other Lee-
ward Island forces, and Colonel Lloyd's regiment, when it
was determined, in a council of war, to sail and attack St*
Pierre, the principal town upon the island. Here, however,
the English appear to have acted a very indifferent part ; for,
after destroying a few plantations, and standing some slight
skirmishing with the French, they abandoned their plans of
endeavouring to take the town ; and, upon the plea of the
troops being sickly, re-embarked their men, and left the
island. Colonel Foulks, Colonel Godwin, Major Abrahall,
with some of the other officers, died of their wounds on
board the vessels ; and the Antigua and other island troops
returned to their respective colonies.
Thus ended an expedition, from which had been expected
great results. According to an early historian, if the regulars
had done their duty, as the Antiguan and the other island
troops did, the whole of the French sugar islands might have
been dispossessed, for the English forces amounted to be-
tween 3000 and 4000 men. The French were, however,
very much alarmed, and many of "the richest inhabitants
shipped themselves and their valuable effects for France,
some of whom were intercepted by the English." Sir
Francis Wheeler then steered for Boston, in America, in-
tending to have proceeded against Quebec ; but finding his
arguments overruled by the Bostonians, he returned in
disgust to England, with his vessels in a very shattered con-
dition, and having lost half of his men.
This officer was noted for his misfortunes, which could
neither be attributed to want of courage nor want of judg-
ment, but to circumstances over which he had no control.
d 3
58 FATE OF SIR F. WHEELER.
We have seen how unfortunate was his expedition to the
West Indies; and although not altogether connected with
this work, we may just glance at his after-fate. About
1694, he was appointed commander-in-chief of the Mediter-
ranean squadron, with orders to take under his convoy the
merchant ships trading to Turkey, Italy, and Spain ; there
to join the Spanish fleet in cruising about until the return
of the Turkish ships, when he was to accompany them
home. After receiving these orders, he sailed from the
roads of St. Helens, off the Isle of Wight, and arrived in
safety at Cadiz, where, leaving Rear-Admiral Hopson, he
proceeded for the Mediterranean. In passing through the
Bay of Gibraltar, he met with very bad weather under a lee-
shore. The ground was so foul that there was no hold for
an anchor ; but as there was no other plan they could follow,
they were obliged to drop them. Several of the ships were
driven on shore, of which many were entirely lost. The
Admiral's ship foundered at sea, and with the exception of
two Moors, all perished in those tideless waters.
In 1694, a general council and assembly was held at
Antigua, when, among other business, it was deemed neces-
sary to place a certain value upon all foreign coins in circu-
lation throughout the Leeward Caribbee Islands. To avoid
disputes in electing members to serve in these general coun-
cils and assemblies, it was proposed that in future the
secretary should take the votes of the freeholders upon oath
in their presence, and admit no vote but from a known
freeholder of the respective island in person. But if, after
these precautions, disputes should still occur, the legislature
was to determine the cause.
The year 1695 will be long remembered in English his-
tory as that of the siege of Namur ; which action, glorious
as it was, would not have been mentioned here, did not
two gentlemen, well known in Antigua, make themselves
conspicuous by their courage and noble bearing on that
occasion. One of these distinguished characters was
WILMOT AND LILLINGSTON's EXPEDITION. 59
Christopher Codrington, Esq., son of General Codrington,
the commander-in-chief, and afterwards governor himself;
a gentleman not only celebrated for his bravery, where all
were brave, but also as being the most accomplished person
of his day. The other individual was Sir William Mathew,
afterwards Captain-General of the Leeward Islands.
While these warlike deeds were going on in Europe, a
squadron had been sent to the West Indies to protect the
trade and harass the enemy. This squadron was placed
under the joint command of Captain Robert Wilmot and
Colonel Lillingston, and consisted of about 1200 land forces,
augmented by troops from Antigua, and some other of the
West Indian islands. This expedition, like that of Sir Francis
Wheeler's, proved unfortunate ; the sea and land officers
disagreed, and instead of acting with each other, they pur-
sued opposite courses. Their first attempt was against
St. Domingo ; but instead of proceeding to take the capital,
Captain Wilmot plundered the surrounding country for his
own good; and although Colonel Lillingston remonstrated
with him, he would not listen to reason. Finding the ill
success of their endeavours, the West Indian troops deter-
mined to return to their respective homes: the Spaniards,
who had joined them against their common enemy, the French,
became disgusted, and withdrew ; and the commanders them-
selves, disappointed of their expected captures, set sail for
England. They lost one of their ships in the Gulf of Florida,
and Captain Wilmot died on his passage. This year the
Antiguans lost some of their merchant-ships, as did many of
the other West India Islands, by their falling into the hands
of the French privateers, who swarmed about the entrance
of the English Channel.
The following year passed in quietness in Antigua. The
secretary's office was appointed as the place where all the
island laws were to be lodged. Before this period, it appears
that there was no particular place appointed to keep the
. public records ; and consequently many valuable papers became
60 DEATH OF THE GOVERNOR.
mislaid or lost. This year, (1696,) the Hastings frigate was
at Antigua, and sailed for London as convoy to a fleet of
eleven ships, which were eleven weeks upon their voyage.
In 1697, public pounds were erected in the several towns
of Antigua, and imposts laid upon all liquors imported into
the island. This had been hitherto a custom, but had expired
some short time before.
The year 1698 was a year of mourning to the Antiguans ;
their friend and patron, as well as governor, breathed his last
sigh, and exchanged an earthly for a heavenly home. General
Codrington was, as before remarked, the first person who
planted the sugar-cane in Antigua: its chief productions
before were indigo, ginger, and tobacco. He removed from
Barbados (of which island he was a native) in 1674 ; and
some authors make that year his appointment to the
governor-generalship of the Leeward Islands, and that of
Colonel Rowland Williams, deputy-governor of Antigua.
This assertion is, however, evidently incorrect; for we have
already seen, that Sir William Stapleton was acting as such
at that period. The mistake must have arisen from General
Codrington having removed to Antigua in that year.
After the demise of* General Codrington, the captain-
general of the Leeward Islands, Colonel John Yeamans, a
resident proprietor of Antigua, exercised the office of
governor of the island.
The Antiguans came to the resolution this year (1698)
of appointing an agent for the island, who was to reside in •
London, and solicit the confirmation of such laws as should
from time to time be made in Antigua, as well as to transact
any other island business. The salary then given was 100/.
sterling per annum, to commence from 1st January, 1689 ;
but since the year 1800, it has been augmented. About
this period, the notorious Captain Kidd * paid Antigua a visit;
* The colonists of North America had, for the last few years, been
greatly addicted to piracy: a practice which it behoved the English
government to put an immediate stop to, if possible. A person of the
GOVERNOR CODRINGTON. 61
but finding the coast of North America would afford him
a better harvest, he did not remain long.
In 1699, the gallant Admiral Ben bow arrived at Antigua
with a squadron of men-of-war, having on board Colonel
Collingwood's regiment, (or, more probably, Col. Whetham's
regiment, known as the " Enniskillen," or 27th regiment of
the line ;) part of which was intended to be stationed upon
the bland, and the remainder to be sent to the other colonies
within the government.
CHAPTER VI.
Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington — Establishment of the first
market — Accession of Queen Anne — Arrival of Admiral Benbow —
Attack upon the island of Guadalonpe, in conjunction with the
Antiguan troops — Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam — Arrival of
Captain Hovenden Walker — Second attack upon Guadalonpe —
Colonel Codrington quits the government — His death — Sir William
Mathew — Hon. John Johnson.
At the period of his father's death, Christopher Codrington,
Esq., the eldest son of the preceding governor, was in Holland,
with his sovereign and his army ; but upon the news arriving
of General Codrington's demise, William III. immediately
name of Kidd, the owner of a small sloop, and who had been early inured
to a maritime life, proposed, that if a vessel of thirty guns, well manned,
was placed under his command, he would agree to suppress the pirates,
and effectually clear those seas from such dangerous frequenters. After
some delay, a vessel was equipped by private' subscription, and Kidd
appointed to the command ; but instead of proceeding upon his mission
to the American seas, he sailed for the East. Indies, where he engaged
in the unlawful traffic himself, captured some traders, and, after burning
his own vessel, sailed in the largest of his prize ships for the Leeward
Islands. After remaining there for a short period, he proceeded in his
piratical career to the coast of North America, where, in his search after
wealth, he perpetrated those revolting cruelties which have rendered
his name infamous, and long caused the inhabitants of those colonies to
chat around their winter's hearth of the deeds and fate of the redoubted
Captain Kidd, the lawless rover of the seas.
62 ESTABLISHMENT OF A MARKET.
appointed Christopher to succeed his late father as Captain-
General and Commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, in
which capacity he arrived at Antigua, in the year 1700.
In the same year, regulations were framed by the legis-
lature, to further increase the number of white inhabitants,
and encourage the soldiers who had been lately disbanded,
to settle in the island, by giving them grants of ten acres of
land, and authorizing the treasurer to advance to each of
them, as a loan, the sum of 3/., a barrel of beef, and a cask
of flour. Such soldiers as were unprovided with grants were
to be allowed 6d. per day, until the time they were put into
possession ; and those who chose to emigrate from the islands
to leeward of Antigua, were allowed 12s. for their passage-
money. All tavern-keepers, owners of sloops, &c, were also
obliged to employ white men, under a penalty of 30s. for
each offence.
In 1702, the first market-place was established, cross streets
laid out, and the town of St. John's otherwise improved. A
clerk of the market was appointed, who was also to be the
public whipper and crier ; town-wardens were elected, whose
duty was to assess houses and lands; and a cage, pillory,
stocks, whipping-post, and ducking-stool,* put up at the
public expense. Night-watches were also appointed, to have
the same power as watchmen in London, and a watch-house
built in a convenient spot. Many of the wharfs were also
constructed, and other improvements made.
William III. having died the 8th of the preceding March,
Queen Anne, his successor, was proclaimed at Antigua, in June,
1702, with some pomp ; as also at Nevis, where the captain-
general was holding a general council and assembly. Punish-
ments were also enacted this year for the offences of slaves,
and for the better government of free negroes. If a slave
struck a white person, and in any way hurt or disfigured him,
such slave was to have his nose slit, or any member cut off',
* " A stool, in which scolds are tied, and ducked under water." — Dr.
Johnson.
BENBOW AT ANTIGUA. 63
or to suffer death, at the discretion of a justice of peace.
Any slaves running away from their owners for the space of
three months, were also to suffer death, have a limb cut off,
or be publicly whipped— the treasurer paying to the owner
18/. in case of death. If, in pursuit of a runaway slave, the
parties killed him, they were not liable to prosecution.
With regard to free negroes, and mulattoes, by which was
meant all persons of colour, they were obliged to choose a
master or a mistress to live with, unless they possessed land
of their own ; and if they dared to strike a white servant,
they were to be severely whipped. No free negro could
possess more than eight acres of land ; nor could any minister
marry such person to a slave, under a penalty of fifty pounds.
The military affairs were also regulated. The island
militia were to consist of infantry and carbineers, under one
of which all the male white inhabitants, from the age of
fourteen to sixty-five, were to be included. One day in
every month was to be set apart for the troops to be exer-
cised ; and once in a year a grand rendezvous was to take
place at Boyer's Pasture, in the division of North Sound,
when prizes were to be distributed to those who made the
best six shots at a target. The prizes consisted of six silver-
hilted swords, with belts, valued at 61. currency. Martial
law was also ordained to be in full force at any period when
there were fears of insurrections or invasions. Fines were
also imposed for various offences, such as absence from
parade, &c. Privates who could not raise the money, were,
in default of paying such fines as they had incurred, to be
picketed, or tied neck and heels for an hour.
This year (1702) Admiral Benbow again visited Antigua,
and war having broken out with France, the captain-general,
Colonel Christopher Codrington, resolved, in conjunction
with that brave officer, to make an attack upon Guadaloupe.
The merchants of Antigua, who • were then a numerous
body, equipped several privateers to serve under the admiral's
flag ; and the captain-general, Colonel Codrington, raised a
64 BENBOW'8 GALLANTRY.
regiment of soldiers, which were placed under the com-
mand of Colonel Edward Byam. On the 7th March, the
land and sea forces were abreast the island of Guadaloupe,
from whence the French fired at them, killing one man, and
wounding a boy on board the commodore's ship. The fleet
laid off and on until the 10th of the same, waiting for the
"Maidstone" man-of-war, with some other of his Majesty's
vessels, from Maria Galante, when, upon their arrival,
Admiral Ben bow came to an anchor on the north-west side
of the island. After burning some plantations along the
coast, on the 12th, Colonel Byam, with his regiment, and a
detachment of 200 men of Colonel Whetham's regiment,
landed at "Les Petits Habitans," where Colonel Byam dis-
tinguished himself by his great bravery ; and, with the united
assistance of the regulars, obliged the French to retire.
The English next attacked a town called "BoglifFe," which,
after some resistance, they took, as also the Jacobin's church,
on which the French had planted ten pieces of cannon.
After many other successes, among which was taking the
breast-work along the Jacobin river, the strongest fortifica-
tions the French possessed, the English proceeded to Basse-
terre, the capital ; and this town they, no doubt, would have
also taken, had it not been for the unhappy differences
arising between the commanders, and which, combined with
the illness of the troops, occasioned the English to withdraw
from the island at a time when victory was almost sure.
After quitting the island of Guadaloupe, the fleet pro-
ceeded for Antigua ; but Admiral Benbow, hearing of the
arrival of the French admiral with ten ships of the line in
these latitudes, went in search of them. As it does not
appear any of the Antiguan forces joined him, we will only
briefly remark that, falling in with the squadron, a fight
commenced, which lasted three days. The last twenty-four
hours the admiral fought with his single ship, his other ves-
sels having deserted him ; when, although his leg was shat-
tered by a chain-shot, and he had received several other
ACCESSION OF QUEEN ANNE. 65
wounds, he would not be carried from the deck of his ship,
but continued fighting until the French were obliged to
sheer off.
Benbow was so displeased with the conduct of the cap-
tains of his different ships, that he determined to steer for
Jamaica, and upon his arrival to call a court-martial. The
most culpable, of them suffered death, the others were pu-
nished in different ways, and the admiral himself took their
conduct so much to heart, that vexation, co-operating with
the pain of his wounds, caused his death in November of
the same year.
About this period (1703), the first sailing packet for the
conveyance of letters arrived at Antigua. Queen Anne had
been graciously pleased to establish this packet service for
the furtherance of trade, as well as to keep up a more regu-
lar intercourse with the colonies, as may be seen from the
annexed notification : —
"London, 11th February, 1702-3.
" Whereas her Majesty, for the encouragement of trade
and commerce, hath thought fit to appoint boats to convey
letters and packets between Barbados, Antigua, Montserrat,
Nevis, St. Christopher's, and Jamaica in America, — this is
to give notice that a mail will go from the general post-
office, in London, on Thursday of this instant (February)
for the above-mentioned islands, and henceforward on
Thursday in every month ; and her Majesty, pursuant to
the statute made in the twelfth year of the reign K. Charles
II., for establishing a post-office, hath directed and em-
powered the postmaster-general of England to take for the
post of all such letters and packets that shall be conveyed
by the said boats between London and any of the before-
mentioned islands, the rates as follows : —
s. d.
For every letter not exceeding one sheet of paper, 9
do. do. two sheets do. 1 6
For every packet weighing an ounce . .2 8"
66 GOVERNOR CODRINGTON RECALLED.
This- year (1703), his Excellency, Christopher Codring-
ton, again entered the lists of battle. Sir George Rooke had
despatched from England at the end of the former year
Captain Hovenden Walker with six ships of the line and
transports, having on board four regiments of soldiers for
the Leeward Islands, which were to be landed at Antigua,
and then distributed among the other colonies. Upon their
arrival at Antigua, Colonel Codrington gave Captain Walker
such information as determined him to alter his plans, and
make an attack upon Guadaloupe ; so, taking on board the
governor and a " martial little band" under his command,
they proceeded for that island. After having razed the
fort, burnt the town, and ravaged the surrounding country,
they re-embarked with precipitation, in consequence of a
report that a body of 900 French soldiers had arrived to
the succour of the inhabitants. Colonel Codrington and
his party returned to Antigua; and Captain Walker re-
tired to Nevis with his squadron, where, it is said, they
must have perished by famine had not Admiral Graydon
fortunately put in there, on his way to Jamaica, and relieved
them.
Colonel Codrington was recalled from his government in
the early part of 1704 — for what reason I know not, unless
it be his loyalty and attachment to his deceased sovereign,
William III. He resided upon his " Betty's Hope " estate,
in Antigua, for some years afterwards, as a private gentle-
man, but at length removed to Barbados, where he died in
1710 ; and, in 1716, his remains were exhumed, and con-
veyed to England, and buried in the chapel of All Souls',
Oxford. Colonel Codrington added to his other accom-
plishments that of a poet — four of his poems being published
in the Musa AnglicaruB. He founded a college, by bequest,
at Barbados, which still bears the name of " Codrington
College ;" and where, since the appointment of a bishop to
this diocese, in 1825, the clergymen who officiate in the West
SIR W. MATHEW. 67
Indian churches, are, with the exception of two or three
from the English universities, ordained.*
In 1704, Queen Anne appointed Sir William Mathew, a
native of St. Kitt's, (who had distinguished himself at the
siege of Namur,) captain -general, who arrived at Antigua
14th July, the same year. His Excellency did not live much
more than five months after his appointment, dying 4th
December ; but during that short time, he endeared himself
to all classes by a kind and courteous behaviour, and his
strict integrity and honourable actions.f Upon the decease
of Sir William Mathew, the Hon. John Johnson was made
commander-in-chief for a short time.j: During his administra-
tion, measures were taken to provide for the safety of the
wives and children of those persons who at any time might
be engaged in fighting for this island, and also for the infirm
and superannuated, by building small houses within the
fortifications of Monk's Hill, where they could retire in
times of actual warfare. This was a very necessary precau-
tion, when the frequent landing of the French, attended by
the Caribs, and the dreadful barbarities which they practised
upon the unfortunate creatures who fell into their hands, is
called to mind. And it was very naturally supposed that
the men would fight better in the ranks, when they knew
those who were near and dear to them were in comparative
* For a genealogy of the Codrington family, see Appendix, No. 9.
f Vide Mathew pedigree, Appendix, No. 10.
X This Hon. John Johnson appears to have crept into the govern-
ment with nothing more than a verbal commission from some great
courtier ; and it is said that, in order to gain the Antiguans over to his
cause, he allowed them to frame and pass what acts they pleased. He
was an officer in Colonel Thomas Whetham's regiment, (the Enniskillen,
or 27th regiment of the line,) where he held the rank of brevet-colonel.
About the year 1706, after the government had devolved to the captain-
general, Colonel Parke, Colonel Johnson had a fracas with a Mr. Pox-
ton, a native of St Christopher's, which ended fatally to the ex-governor,
and for which Mr. Poxton was tried for murder, hut acquitted by a jury
of his countrymen.
68 GENERAL ASSEMBLY AT NEVIS.
safety, than if obliged to leave them unprotected. These
fortifications had been begun, at considerable expense, in the
year 1687-8, and although a constant tax upon the country,
had never been finished ; but it was resolved this year to
make no more delay, but carry on the works with vigour.
This year (1705) a general council and assembly was
held at Nevis, when an act was passed to regulate such
meeting, and retain for each island its several laws. In
future, the general assembly was to consist of five free-
holders, elected from each respective island within the
government. No member was to be sued or arrested for
debt ten days before or after the sessions ; and, while serv-
ing in general council and assembly, each meirjber was
to be paid 20s. per day, and their expenses allowed them for
going from island to island.
CHAPTER VIL
Governor Colonel Daniel Parke— His birth-place and parentage —
His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim — His arrival at
Antigua — Dissensions with the Antiguans — Complaints against him
sent to England — Results of the applications at the court of Queen
Anne — Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke — Events of the 7th
December, 1710— Death of Colonel Parke.
The year 1706 is celebrated in the annals of Antigua as
that in which that abominable and atrocious governor,
Daniel Parke, arrived to blast for a time with his unhallowed
breath this beautiful little island. Parke was an American
of rather low birth, a tobacco-planter in the state of Vir-
ginia, but who succeeded in marrying a lady of good fortune,
and of a respectable family in that province. As money
was the only thing he cared for in this alliance, he contrived
to secure that, and then left his wife a prey to sorrow and
regret, for having sacrificed her peace for a handsome but
unworthy man. After acting in this inhuman manner to a
COLONEL PARKE. 69
woman whose only fault was her love for him, Parke pro-
ceeded to one of the northern states, where he committed a
crime at a gaming-table, which obliged him to fly to Eng-
land to escape the punishment so justly due. Here he
purchased an estate, situated near Whitchurch, county of
Hants, of about 500/. a year, and got himself returned
member for that borough. He was, however, expelled the
House for bribery, and ordered to be prosecuted, but
through the interference of the Earl of Pembroke, he eluded
his trial. His next action was to form a liaison with a lady,
the wife of a captain in the Guards ; and, to escape the ven-
geance of the incensed husband, he left England, and fled
into Holland, where he entered into the army as a volunteer,
under the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough.
The Duke of Marlborough appears to have been caught
with Mr. Parke's insinuating manners and agreeable person,
and made him one of his aides-de-camp at the battle of
Hochet ; but having had a quarrel with an officer in the
Queen's Guards, Parke quitted the service a few days pre-
vious to the memorable battle of Blenheim. He still, how-
ever, remained within the precincts of the camp until the
very day when that decisive action was fought ; and when
victory was about to be declared for the allied army, he
presented himself before Marlborough, and requested that
he might be the bearer of a line or two to acquaint the
Queen of the glorious conquest likely to be achieved. The
brave General reined up his panting war-horse, and with a
heart bounding with exultation, and a face flushed with ex-
pected success, wrote, with a lead pencil, the following brief
and soldier-like billet to his duchess : —
August 13, 1704.
" I have not time to say more, than to beg of you to
present my duty to the Queen, and let her majesty know that
her army has had a glorious victory. Monsieur Tallard and
two other generals are in my court, and I am following the
rest. The bearer, my aide-de-camp, Colonel Parke, will
70 ARBITRARY CONDUCT OP THE GOVERNOR.
give her majesty an account of what has passed ; I shall do
it in a day or two, by another, more at large.
" Marlborough.''
At the English court, Colonel Parke gained the patronage
of Sarah, the haughty but fascinating Duchess of Marlbo-
rough ; through whose interest he became such a favourite
with Queen Anne, that she presented him with her picture,
richly set in diamonds, a purse of one thousand guineas, and
afterwards made him governor and captain-general of An-
tigua and the rest of the Leeward Islands ; where he arrived
6th July, 1706, in the squadron commanded by Capt. Kerr,
and where he gave full scope to his licentious disposition.
Upon the first arrival of Colonel Parke, the assembly voted
him 1000/. a year for house-rent, and great satisfaction was
expressed at his appointment. It was not long, however,
before this fair prospect of colonial happiness changed;
and the governor, by his arbitrary behaviour, forfeited
all claims to the good feeling and respect of the inha-
bitants. One of the earliest offences Colonel Parke gave
the Antiguans, was his making a low man he brought to the
island with him a member of the assembly. Being a vulgar
man, he delighted in vulgar associates ; and becoming ac-
quainted with a private named Ayon, belonging to a regiment
of foot stationed in Antigua, he prevailed upon the governor
to appoint him provost- marshal. To the remonstrance of
the Antiguans against this proceeding, Parke replied, he
should make whom he chose provost-marshal; and that he
would never appoint any person to that office who did not
agree to act exactly as he wished, as well as empannel such
juries as he should direct.
The next act of the governor gave equal displeasure.
This was calling upon the Codrington family to shew their
right to the Island of Barbuda,* (which had been granted to
* Barbuda is a small island, about twenty miles broad, and lies twenty-
six miles to the north of Antigua. It has belonged to the Codrington family
parre's cruelty. 71
General Codrington by William III.;) and the Antiguans
not only felt interested in the affairs of him who had been
their friend and governor, but they supposed Parke would
also be calling upon them to shew their claim to their es-
tates — an indignity which they felt no inclination to put up
with.
Another crime of huge magnitude was the seduction of
Mrs. Chester, the wife of Edward Chester, Esq., one of the
most opulent of the Antiguan merchants, and a member of
the house of assembly. Not content with injuring this
gentleman in the deepest manner by thus robbing him of the
affections of his wife, Colonel Parke, in his office of governor,
proceeded to offer Mr. Chester every insult which a little
mind was capable of. Upon one occasion, the governor had
all his cocoa and other merchandise seized, on an unfounded
suspicion of its being illegally gained ; and then, supposing
that all these several aggravations would cause him to be
justly disliked, he (Colonel Parke) accused Mr. Chester of
joining with other disaffected parties, in endeavours against
his government ; and, upon the plea of doing it for the
establishment of the public peace, he broke into Mr. Ches-
ter's house one evening, when that gentleman was enter-
taining a few of his friends, who were obnoxious to the
from about the year 1691, when William III. granted it to General Cod-
rington, then governor-general of the Leeward Islands. It raises a great
number of horned cattle, ponies, donkeys, &c, and its shores are very
prolific in turtle and various kinds of fish ; while its beach is strewed
with many beautiful shells. Deer, also, range amid its sylvan glades ;
and their flesh occasionally affords another dish at a West Indian dinner.
The chief emoluments arising from this island, however, are the number
of wrecks ; three or four sometimes occurring in a year. The reason of
these frequent maritime disasters is, that the island lies so low, and is
generally encompassed with fogs, that vessels are upon the reefs (by
which it is almost entirely surrounded) before they are aware. It was
upon one of this chain of reefs, that H. M. S. Woolwich was wrecked.
Barbuda contains about 1500 inhabitants, of which the greater part
are employed as huntsmen and fishermen : the former make use of the
lazo to catch the wild horses, &c.
72 PETITION FOR THE GOVERNOR'S RECALL.
governor — and, by the assistance of some of his armed syco-
phants, among whom was the provost-marshal, dragged Mr.
Chester and his friends to prison. In order to give some face
to his proceedings, Colonel Parke accused other gentlemen of
joining in this pretended insurrection, and, accordingly, he
sent some of his brutal partisans to an estate called " Den-
bows," with orders to take into custody Mr. Ffrye and Mr.
Cockran, (members of the assembly,) and bring them to town
to stand their trial upon that charge. While the magistrates
were taking depositions in this case, Sergeant Bowes, a crea-
ture of the governor, beat Captain Kallabane (one of the wit-
nesses for the defendant) in the open court. For this offence
the sergeant was broke by his colonel, and ordered to be
whipped ; but when this circumstance came to the ears of the
governor, he immediately restored Bowes to his rank of ser-
geant, and protected him from all further punishment.
Another source of dissatisfaction, upon the part of the
assembly, arose from the circumstance of the governor
taking the soldiers off duty to watch his private property.
The following extract, taken from a message addressed to
his excellency from the members of the house of assembly,
relates to this subject : — " We always conceived her Ma-
jesty's troops were sent to do duty on our standing guards,
and not to be altogether employed in guarding your excel-
lency's person, your several buildings, your lumber, your
heaps of bricks, mortar, and pantiles."
It must not be supposed that these were the only com-
plaints alleged against Colonel Parke. His whole conduct,
both in public and private life, was arbitrary in the extreme ;
and so supercilious was his treatment of the magnates of
the island, that before he had held the government for
twelvemonths, articles of impeachment were prepared to be
forwarded to England.
In 1707, a petition was drawn up and signed by eighty of
the principal inhabitants, praying for his recall ; a sum of
money raised in order to defray the expenses of sending Mr.
TYRANNY OF COLONEL PARKE. 73
Nevin to England, to lay their grievances before her Ma-
jesty and council ; and letters were written to Richard Cary,
Esq., the colonial agent, calling upon that gentleman to as-
sist them in their designs.
While these measures were pursued by the disaffected
party, the governor, who was not ignorant of these cabals
against him, lost nothing of his arrogance of manner, which
so incensed his adversaries, that at length an attempt was
made upon his life. As he was riding along the high road,
leading from St. John's to English Harbour, a negro, named
" Sandy," fired at him from a piece of canes belonging to
the plantation of the Honourable Otto Baijer,* and danger-
ously wounded him, of which deed Colonel Parke accused
Mr. Jacob Morgan and some of the other members of the
assembly, with being the instigators.
About this time, Colonel Parke thought proper to accuse
Barry Tankard, Esq., (a proprietor of sugar estates in
Antigua, and an intimate friend of Colonel Codrington,)
of caballing against his government ; and accordingly he
despatched his emissaries to the estate of that gentleman,
with orders to seize his person, and bring him into town.
Upon their arrival at Mr. Tankard's house, they were in-
formed of his absence from home ; but doubting the truth
of this information, they broke open the door of Mrs. Tan-
kard's chamber, (who was confined to her bed from severe
indisposition,) and so alarmed that lady, that for some time
her life was in danger. This arbitrary behaviour on the
part of the governor led Barry Tankard to resent it, by
calling his excellency out in a duel ; but Colonel Parke, con-
sidering it beneath the dignity of the queen's representative
to accept the challenge of a private* gentleman, the matter
ended.
While these dissensions were going on in Antigua between
the governor on the one side, and the members of the
assembly and the principal inhabitants on the other, Mr. Nevin
* This spot is now appropriated for the Wesleyan burial-ground.
VOL. I. E
74 COLONEL PARKE RECALLED.
and Mr. Cary were using their best endeavours to get a
favourable answer to their complaints from the home govern-
ment. At length, after many delays, Mr. Nevin returned to
Antigua, bringing with him the queen's letter, directing that
witnesses should be examined to prove the several articles
of impeachment sent home against the governor, as well as
his excellency's answers to the same. " The depositions and
answers were sworn before Edward By am, Esq , one of the
council, and Nathaniel Crump, Esq., speaker of the house
of assembly, and were ordered to be sealed with the broad
seal of the island, and forwarded immediately to England."
The governor, however, refusing to seal the affidavits of the
complainants, upon the plea that his own answers were not
ready, from the delays of the justices before whom they were
sworn, his opponents were obliged to use another seal, and
then despatch them, under the care of Mr. Nevin, to England.
During the year 1709, Queen Anne recalled Colonel Parke
from his government, to the great joy of the' Antiguans. To
this command the infatuated man, however, would pay no
attention ; and, exasperated by the triumphant looks of his
accusers, which they could not, or would not, conceal, he
proceeded to measures which could be only deemed those of
a maddened despot.
The year 1710 was ushered in with no better feeling be-
tween the governor and the members of the legislature.
One of their first causes of complaint alleged against his
excellency arose from the following circumstance : —
It had ever been the privilege of the house of assembly
to choose their own " clerk ;" but during this despotic ad-
ministration, the governor overlooked this, and wished to
appoint to that office a Triend of his own — a Mr. Hinton.*
* The following is an authentic copy of Mr. Hinton's commission and
warrant, as drawn out in Colonel Parke's own handwriting : —
" By his Excellency Daniel Parke, Esq., Captain-General and
Governor-in -Chief in and over all her Majesty's Leeward
Caribbee Islands in Antigua.
" I do hereby authorize and appoint you, Gabriel Hinton, of the said
island aforesaid, to be clerk to the assembly of this island, and which
UNHANDSOME TAUNT OP THE GOVERNOR. 75
This encroachment upon the assembly's privileges gave rise
to a great deal of ill feeling, and many acrimonious messages
passed between his excellency and the members of that body.
The following paragraph, copied from one of the governor's
speeches, alludes to this subject : —
" If you still persist that it is your undoubted privilege to
choose your ' clerk/ and will do no business until that be
yielded to you, you certainly will have the ' Lords' Com-
mittee 9 opinion. It is an undutiful attempt upon her majesty's
prerogative; and I do assure you, gentlemen, if the queen
does not appoint any other before I go, I will leave you time
enough to raise money during this crop to pay off all the
public debt I" * •
This unhandsome taunt of the governor's was deeply felt,
and resented by the " house," who, in reply to it, remarks —
" We cannot but observe how severe and bitter your
excellency reflects upon, and reproaches our country with,
the not paying its debt, but compounding the same. We
well remember, when the country paid your excellency
1000/. in sugar, at 12s. 6c?., your excellency sold that very
sugar for 1 8s. ; so that we hope your excellency has but little
reason to complain of the public compounding their debt."
And then, in reference to a recommendation of the
governor's to enlarge the provision for the clergymen, they
go on to mention —
u Your excellency next recommends to provide a better
is this day appointed to meet ; and to receive all fees, proffitts, and per-
quisites thereto belonging, for which this shall be your sufficient warrant
and commission.
" Given under my hand and seal this twenty-second day of May, 1710.
(Signed) "Daniel Parke."
* At this period, the island had fallen considerably in debt ; and the
legislature not having met for some time, from the unhappy differences
between them and the governor, they had no opportunity of relieving
themselves from their burdens; which difficulties were pleasing to
Colonel Parke, in the hopes of their being compelled to make a general
compromise.
E 2
76 ADDRESS TO THE GOVERNOR:
maintenance for the clergy. They are already allowed 100/.;
but as we are a people so much in debt, as your excellency
observes, it cannot be expected, during these troublesome
times, for us to advance their salaries, especially such scan-
dalous persons as too many of the present clergy are."
This was only the third meeting of the legislature since
the election, after a recess of three years ; although, from
the unsettled condition of the West Indies, (arising from the
state of affairs in Europe, where Marlborough, at the head
of the British forces, was engaged in frequent skirmishes
with the French,) the Antiguans were in momentary expect-
ation of an invasion. After being prorogued from the 18th
of November to the 27th, (1710,) the legislature again met,
but without any better feeling between the governor and the
members of the assembly. A fresh cause of dispute arose,
from his excellency having caused a Mr. Hill to be sworn
in as clerk of the assembly, (in place of his former favourite,
Mr. Hinton,) but whom the members would not recognise ;
and after a great deal of altercation upon the subject, that
body addressed the following to the governor : —
" If your excellency's resentment so far prevails as to
despise these our propositions, and that the public affairs
must with us still suffer, as unworthy your regard and con-
sideration, we do then, as the only and last expedient, humbly
propose your excellency's visiting some other island of the
government ; thereby to afford us the opportunity and means,
in conjunction with the lieutenant-governor and council, to
provide for the public security, to heal our divisions, restore
discipline, and our broken constitution, after the best manner
we can. And we are unanimously of opinion, that in case
your excellency rejects this our humble motion, and will not
surcease such administration, as afore-mentioned, (which is
so very opposite to the nature of our constitution, to the
opinion of the lieutenant-governor, the council, as well as
this house, and to the sense of the inhabitants in general,)
we shall be under the unhappy necessity of withdrawing our
HIS REPLY. 77
obedience from you as chief governor, which, by your dis-
pensing with her majesty's positive command for leaving
the government, we shall, in duty to her. and justice to our-
selves, (which we ought long since to have done ;) and that
this her colony, our persons and estates, may no longer be
exposed to such unhappy conduct and administration, which
seems entirely — we must say, foully — devoted to the ruin
and destruction of all." *
After receiving this message, the unhappy, infatuated
governor sent the following to the house : —
" Gentlemen, — You are adjourned until Thursday, the 7th
of December, then to give myself and council a meeting at
the town of St. John's, by eight of the clock in the morning.
" By command," &c.
Alas, that very morning, the sun arose for the last time
to him ! and by a fearful and unhallowed death, he was sent
with all his sins upon his head, to render in an account of
his stewardship.
The cause which led to this melancholy event was this : —
Worn out with the proceedings of Colonel Parke, and looking
upon him as an usurper of the government, the Antiguans
threw off all restraint ; and as the last remedy, determined
to arm against, and force him to quit the island.
Accordingly, upon the morning of the 7th December, 1710,
a large body of men, in number about 500, proceeded to
Government House, in two parties — the one headed by
Mr. Piggot, then speaker of the house of assembly ; the
other, by Captain Painter, another member of that body.
Colonel Parke, who was not ignorant of these proceedings
against him, had quartered in Government House, some
time before, the soldiers stationed in the capital ; and who,
* It may be well to remark, that any peculiarities in the diction of the
foregoing extracts must be attributed to the time in which they were
written : they having been copied verbatim.
For a list of the members of the house of assembly at this time, see
Appendix, No. 11.
78* ATTACK ON THE GOVERNOR:
along with many of his private friends, (among whom was
Mr. French, his historian,) had made arrangements for re-
sisting any attack upon the governor.
Upon the approach of the armed party, Colonel Parke
sent the provost-marshal (the man whose appointment to
that office had given the Antiguans such offence) with a
proclamation, ordering them to disperse immediately. This
they refused to do ; but in order, if possible, to save an
effusion of blood, they despatched Nathaniel Crump, Esq.,
(the former speaker of the assembly,) and George Gamble,
one of the council, to the governor, desiring him, in the
name of the inhabitants, to discharge his guards, and quit
the government, without any further contest. Colonel Parke
returned for answer, " that neither threats nor fear of death
should make him do so; for the queen had intrusted him
with it." Through the delegates, Mr. Crump and Mr. Gamble,
he bid the assembly " sit at Parham, if they were afraid of the
troops at St. John's," but consented at the same time to dismiss
the soldiers, if six of the principal inhabitants would remain
with him as hostages. As the negotiators considered the
proposal of the governor's to be far preferable to com-
mencing hostilities, they agreed to be two of the hostages,
and endeavour by their influence to obtain four more from
among the assembled multitude. Many of their party, upon
hearing this proposition of the governor's, agreed with them
in their opinions, and laid down their arms ; but the ma-
jority of the people, fearful of any agreement made with the
governor, and thinking that delays might induce others of
the group to withdraw also, determined to commence the
attack, and endeavour to secure the person of the governor.
The two companies, headed by Captain Piggot and Captain
Painter, immediately drew up before Government House,
which they saluted with a warm discharge of musketry.
This was returned by the governor's party ; volley succeeded
volley from within and without; the balls whistled hotly
around ; until at length the assailants burst open the doors.
HIS DEATH. 79
and rushed into the dwelling. Captain Piggot fell by the
hand of Colonel Parke, at the commencement of the affray,
although it was the belief of many that Ayon, the provost-
marshal and ci-devant foot-soldier, came behind him and shot
him in the back. After some deaths on both sides, Colonel
Parke, who had retired into his bedroom, received a shot in
his thigh, which, breaking the bone, disabled him from fur-
ther retreating, and the people rushing upon him, literally
tore him to pieces while alive.^j They afterwards burnt down
Government House, the ruins of which remain to this day j
a memento of his dreadful crimes and fearful punishment.
Colonel Parke was dragged into the streets by some of his ] jj
adversaries, where he remained for some time, still sensible,
but suffering agonies impossible to describe, until at length
his mutilated body was carried to the house of a person
named Wright, who lived near to the spot, where he shortly
expired. His body was deposited in the vault of the old
church ; but so detested was his memory, that the people
broke down the pew which had been appropriated for him
and his predecessors.
Some writers maintain that only the common people were * j
concerned in the last act of this tragedy ; that those of the , . • -■
higher rank proceeded to the house of John Yeamans, the * *j..--
lieutenant-governor, and quietly laid down their arms. Mr. » '*}
French, the historian of Colonel Parke, writes, however, very /
differently upon this part of the subject ; but it ought to be
taken into consideration, that he was a particular friend of
Colonel Parke, and consequently might give a higher
colouring to the melancholy picture. He says, that when
Colonel Parke lay in the street suffering the pangs of a dis-
membered body, the members of the house of assembly
stood round reviling and insulting him in his last agonies ;
that among the number were Andrew Murray, Francis
Carlisle, Mr. Tomlinson, and Captain Painter. I cannot
believe this assertion. Although Parke was their common
foe, still they must have been possessed of those feelings of
* *
4
80 GOVERNOR HAMILTON.
honour, if not humanity, which would forbid them to triumph
over a dying enemy.^-Mr. French goes on to state, that it
was Colonel Byam who was most active in convening the
inhabitants, and appointing a certain day for them to come
into town well armed. This, too, has been contradicted.
There were not many clergymen then upon the island ; but
among their number, Mr. James Field, rector of St. John's,
took the part of the people ; and Mr. Baxter, rector of Par-
ham, that of Colonel Parke. "7^
All writers upon the West Indies mention the crimes and
fate of Parke ; and consequently I am obliged to follow in
the wake, or else I should have buried his errors — or, more
properly speaking, his vices — in oblivion.*
CHAPTER VIII.
Governor Walter Hamilton — Walter Douglas's Disturbances — Com-
plaints against him sent to England — Queen Anne recalls him, and
reappoints Walter Hamilton — Lord Viscount Lowther— John Hart-
Lord Londonderry— Lord Forbes — Colonel William Crosbie.
After the death of Colonel Parke, the government, of
course, devolved upon the lieutenant-governor of Antigua,
John Yeamans, until such time as despatches could be for-
warded to Nevis, where General Hamilton, who was next
in command to the late captain -general, (and who had mar-
ried the widow of Sir William Stapleton, a former governor,)
was residing. Four of the members of the legislature were,
accordingly, sent to General Walter Hamilton, advising
him of the death of Colonel Parke, and inviting him to
come to Antigua in order to assume the chief command.
General Hamilton received the party with great urbanity
and kindness, and accompanied them back to Antigua,
* The last will of Governor Parke will be found in Appendix, No. 12.
RECALL OF HAMILTON. 81
where he took up his residence, for the time being, with
Dr. Mackinnon, one of the actors in the late affray.*
Upon the intelligence of Colonel Parke's death reaching
England, Queen Anne was very much incensed against the
inhabitants of Antigua ; but, after hearing the catalogue of
Parke's crimes, and in order to prevent any further effusion
of blood, her majesty was graciously pleased to send a
general pardon to all that were concerned in that transac-
tion.
But although the queen thought proper to extend her
clemency to the Antiguans, she made some alteration in the
affairs of the Leeward Island government. General Walter
Hamilton was recalled, and General Walter Douglas ap-
pointed in his room ; and John Yeamans was removed from
the situation of lieutenant-governor of Antigua, and that
appointment conferred upon Colonel Edward Byam.
During the period General Douglas administered the
government, he received instructions from England to see
an act put into execution, which had been passed in the
time of Christopher Codrington the younger, respecting the
ascertainment of the value of current coin.
The 24th of June, 1712, Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker
again visited Antigua with a fleet of seven ships under his
command. Soon after his departure, M. Copard, the
French admiral, with a fleet of eight ships and seventeen
sloops of war, manned with about 5000 men, made an
attack upon the island ; but we find, from despatches sent to
England by the governor, General Douglas, their attempts
at landing were frustrated.
General Douglas had scarcely been two years governor
before complaints against him were also despatched to
England, as well as a petition from the inhabitants, pray-
ing the queen to recall him, in which petition their late
governor-general, Walter Hamilton, joined. General Douglas
* See farther as to the Mackinrions, Appendix, No. 13.
Ed
82 RE-APPOINTMENT OF HAMILTON.
had made himself so obnoxious, that another rebellion
had almost occurred. One of his measures was to retain
certain duties, which ought to have been paid into the
treasury, (such as duties upon wines and liquors, &c), for
his own particular use. He also persecuted General Hamil-
ton, and suspended him from all offices he held in the island ;
and upon that gentleman repairing to England to transact
some private business, Colonel Douglas endeavoured to
seize Dr. Mackinnon and Chief-Justice Watkins for their
proceedings in the affair of Colonel Parke, as well as on the
plea of another intended rebellion. These gentlemen, how-
ever, contrived to escape to England, where, from advices
received from Governor Douglas, they were afterwards
seized and committed to prison ; but, pleading the general
pardon which her majesty had issued, they were discharged
without trial, although Ensign Smith, one of the asserted
culprits, lay in Newgate for some months.
While these rancorous dissensions were going on between
the governor and the inhabitants, orders were received for
him to return to England ; and, to the joy of the Antiguans,
his majesty George I. re-appointed General Walter Hamilton
to the government in 1715. The island was now pretty
quiet; the French keeping to their own colonies without troub-
ling their neighbours. The Antiguans, however, were still
very cautious of them ; and the few persons of that nation
who, after the termination of the war, came to reside at
Antigua, were very coldly received. This year (1715) the
court of chancery was amended. Hitherto it was held by
one person, which caused delays, besides other incon-
veniences : so that it was resolved in future it should consist
of the governor, and not less than five members of the
council.
Previous to this period, there was also much difficulty in
recovering minor debts, owing to the want of good laws,
which occasioned so much inconvenience to the merchants
of Antigua that they found it necessary this year (1715) to
REGULATIONS RESPECTING OWNERS OF SLAVES. 83
draw up a petition, signed by twenty-six of the most in-
fluential members of their body, praying for a better settling
of the island courts. In 1711, the attorney-general, Thomas
Bretton, Esq., had drawn up an act "for establishing a
court of queen's bench and common pleas, and for the
better regulating and settling due methods for the adminis-
tration of justice," with which the council and assembly
were so well pleased, that they presented him with one hun-
dred and forty pounds currency ; but which act was so
marred in the passing of it, that they themselves found it
necessary to incur further expense by having another drawn
up. As, however, this did not appear to have the desired
effect, in 1715, (after receiving the petition from the mer-
chants,) further and more effective measures were taken for
settling law courts, and limiting a time for issuing execu-
tions out of the court of chancery.
In 1716, fresh regulations were made respecting the im-
portation of white servants. Every owner of slaves, to the
number of fifteen, was obliged to find a white man to serve
in the militia ; and for every twenty slaves, above fifteen,
they were obliged to find another white servant. Importers
of white Protestant servants could demand of the treasurer
of the island eighteen pounds per head if not sold in twenty
days, and further obliged the treasurer to receive such ser-
vant until sold. The general term of servitude was seven
years, at the end of which period their master was to give
them fifty shillings, and 400 pounds of sugar or tobacco,
with a certificate of their being free. If one of these white
servants married a free person without the consent of their
master, that free person was to be fined 100/. ; and if one
servant entertained another for more than twenty-four hours
at one time, the person so offending was to be publicly
whipped, or serve the injured party three months ; or if the
entertainer was free, he was to forfeit 20/.
About this time, Governor Hamilton sent a party of
settlers, under command of a Mr. Howell, from Antigua and
84 MEASURES TO SUPPRESS GAMBLING.
the different Leeward Islands, to plant a colony upon Crab Is-
land, a small island lying between Santa Cruz and Porto Rico.
In the year 1699, the Scottish or Darien Company fitted
out two large ships with a cargo of articles for traffic, and arms
and ammunition, intending to form a settlement in America.
While on their passage, they resolved to call in at Crab
Island, and leave some of their party there ; but upon their
arrival, finding a large tent erected on the beach, with Danish
colours flying, and not wishing to have any dispute, they left the
island to the Danes, and proceeded to the Isthmus of Darien.
The Danes having given up the colony, the English thought
it a good time to put in a claim, and accordingly, as before
remarked, Governor Hamilton sent a party to colonize it.
Improvements were made about this time in the erection
of mills for the purpose of grinding the sugar cane, and also
in the art of sugar-boiling, which the Antiguans at that day
appear to have been deficient in. Oldmixon, speaking of the
sugar made in Antigua, says, — "It is so black and coarse, that
no art could fine it ; and, as if our sugar bakers in England
scorned to put dirt in their coppers, it was generally shipped
off to Holland and Hamburg, where it was sold for 16s.,
when any other brought from 18s. to 19s. per hundred."
In 1620, Lord Viscount Lowther was appointed to the
government of the Leeward West India Islands, but his ap-
pointment was afterwards cancelled ; and, in 172], George I.
appointed John Hart, Esq., former governor of Maryland,
to be commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, who
arrived at Antigua about the middle of the year. About
this time gambling raged to a great extent in Antigua, and
it was thought necessary to adopt some measures to suppress
it. It was therefore ordained, in 1723, that, if any person
won more than seven pounds at one sitting, or within twenty-
four hours from the time they first commenced playing, they
were to forfeit treble the value, half of which was to be paid
into treasury for the purpose of building and repairing forts,
&c, and the other half to go to the loser. It is strange that,
LAWS RESPECTING SLAVES. 85
much about the same time, this vice was very prevalent in
England. Indeed, profligacy of all kinds had increased in
that kingdom to an alarming extent. This was supposed
to have arisen from the infatuation of the South Sea scheme,
which, intoxicating the minds of the people with the pros-
pect of imaginary wealth, led them into every excess. If
any of the Antiguans had joined in this infatuation, I am
unable to say. I was led into the mention of it from the
fact of both countries being, at the same period, subject to
the same kind of vice.
For the last few years the inhabitants of Antigua had
been very much harassed by a gang of runaway slaves,
from various estates, who had taken up their abode in some
of the mountains and rocky parts of the island, and who
were in the practice of issuing out at night, and committing
many and great depredations. The leaders of this gang of
vagrants were three men, of the name of Africa, Papa Will,
and Sharper ; and, to insure their capture, a reward of
twenty pounds was offered to any person who should place
either of them, dead or alive, in the hands of the provost-
marshal. If any one killed a slave who had been absent
from their owner three months, while in pursuit of them, he
was entitled to the sum of three pounds ; and when such
slave was taken alive, the reward was doubled, the owner of
any slave so killed being paid his or her value from the
treasury. If a slave concealed, afforded nourishment to, or
comforted a runaway, he was to be publicly whipped on the
bare back with any number of stripes the justice of the
peace thought proper to order ; and if any free person so
offended, such freeman was to be fined not less than ten
pounds for the first offence. No person was allowed to
purchase goods of a slave, under a penalty of thirty pounds
for the first offence, except such things as pigs, goats, fowls,
fish, or ground provision, which slaves were allowed to sell ;
but ginger and cotton ranked among the prohibitory articles.
For the better government of this sable race, it was thought
86 GEORGE II. PROCLAIMED.
proper by those in power to restrict their diversions, and
publish a decree, that all owners of slaves should allow
them three days at Christmas for play-days, and no more,
under a penalty of twenty pounds. Many other regulations
were made, which appear at this day very harsh — such as
not allowing slaves to plant cotton, forbidding them to as-
semble in parties of more than ten, punished. for carrying
any kind of weapon, unless in company of a white person,
&c. ; but, at the same time, it was enacted that if any cruelly
disposed person hurt, or killed a slave, they were liable to the
same punishment as if the victim bad been free ; thus setting
a bright example to the other island, where killing a slave
was looked upon, in law, as a mere trifle.
In 1725, the parish of St. Peter's was divided into two,
making Antigua to consist of six parishes, instead of five ; the
separated half of St. Peter's being called St. George. The
reason of this division was the great extent of the parish,
which, having only one church and one chapel of ease in it,
and those at a considerable distance, the parishioners had not
an opportunity of attending divine worship every week. No-
thing of much importance occurred during the next two
years, except that the assembly of Antigua returned thanks
to Captain Arthur Delgarno, commander of H.M.S. South
Sea Castle, for his indefatigable exertions in these seas, in
keeping away the enemy's ships, and protecting the trade of
the island : they also voted two hundred guineas to purchase
a sword to present to the gallant commander, as a token of
respect. It was by the suggestions of this Captain Delgarno,
and Captain Cooper, of H.M.S. Lyon, in 1725, that the
spacious dockyard at English Harbour was first erected.
George I. dying in the month of June, 1727, his
son succeeded to the vacant throne, under the title of
George II. Upon the intelligence reaching the ears of the
Antiguans, he was proclaimed at Antigua with great pomp.
An ox was roasted whole, and three hogsheads of beer dis-
tributed to the poor inhabitants ; while a splendid entertain-
CONSPIRACY AMONG THE NEGROES. 87
ment was provided for the governor and the gentry of the
island, at the public expense.
His majesty George II. having appointed Lord London-
derry* to succeed John Hart, Esq., in the government of the
Leeward Islands, that nobleman arrived at Antigua in 1728 ;
but was detained off the port, or rather on board his vessel,
which was anchored in the roadstead for some time, on ac-
count of a hurricane. About this period, the commander of
H. M. S. Winchelsea took a pirate vessel, while at anchor
near one of the small islands with which these seas abound ;
but the crew escaped, with the exception of five persons, who
were brought to Antigua, and hung. These were Captain
Fen, the owner aud commander, his gunner, and three com-
mon sailors.
The first year of Lord Londonderry's administration, it
was privately recommended to him, by the English govern-
ment, to lay before the legislature of Antigua the necessity
of building barracks for the accommodation of the regiment
of foot stationed in the island, or else assign them quarters,
by billeting them upon the several estates, or in the towns.
Hitherto, they were scattered all over the country, obtaining
shelter wherever they could, and consequently, they became
very disorganized. It was, however, not until the year 1741,
that these recommendations were carried into effect, when bar-
racks were erected upon Rat Island ; and, in 1753, additional
barracks were built at the head of the town. The Antiguans
were this year alarmed by a conspiracy among the negroes,
which, however, appears to have been confined to those be-
longing to a Mr. Crump. As upon trial they were not thought
worthy of death, it was resolved to banish eight of the prin-
cipal offenders, who were to be sent to Maryland or Virginia,
or else sold to such persons who would agree to transport
them to the Spanish coasts, with the proviso that if they re-
turned to Antigua, they were immediately to be executed.
* Son to Mr. Pitt ; famous for the diamond he brought from the East
Indies, and which he afterwards sold to the King of France.
88 LORD FORBES.
A thousand pounds were granted to his excellency Tho-
mas Pitt, Earl of Londonderry, this year, in addition to the
usual salary ; and the emoluments arising from a duty of
3*. 6d. per ton, upon all vessels clearing from the island, hav-
ing on board native produce, was also settled upon him as
long as he continued in the government. As, however, the
next year, (1729,) transient factors were allowed exemptions
from the charge of 3s. 6d. per ton, (on the ground of their
paying 21. for every 100/. imported,) which would tend to
decrease the governor's salary, a further sum of a thousand
pounds was granted to supply all deficiencies. As there had
been no government house erected since the affair of Colonel
Parke, the Antiguans renting a house for that purpose, which
was attended with some disadvantage, Lord Londonderry
recommended to the council and assembly the necessity of
building a government house, pointing out at the same time
that the want of such an accommodation for their governors
might thereafter prove disadvantageous to the Antiguans.
This advice, however, appears not to have been followed, for
it was not until after 1800, that the present government
bouse was erected. The laws of Antigua were also this year
recommended to be sent to the agent in England, to have
them printed.
Many other regulations were gone into, tending to the
welfare of Antigua ; and it was also resolved that if any
members of the council and assembly were absent, and
could not give a satisfactory cause, such absentees were to
forfeit 5/., and were sometimes even expelled. During the
government of this nobleman, a bill passed the two houses of
parliament, which had been long pending, granting en-
couragement to the sugar colonies, of which Antigua had
become one of the most flourishing. Lord Londonderry did
not live more than a year and a half after his appointment ;
and, upon his demise, the Right Honourable Lord Forbes
was nominated to the vacant government. The country voted
a sum of money for his reception, and a house was engaged
GOVERNOR MATHEWS. 89
for him ; but, after waiting for about six months, and no
governor making his appearance, it was given up, and the
government devolved to William Mathews the lieut. -governor.
The same year, however, Brigadier-general William Crosbie
was appointed captain-general ; but it appears he did not
accept the office, or the appointment was cancelled by the
home government; for in the following year he removed to
New York, where he became governor.
CHAPTER IX.
Governor William Mathew, Esq. — Insurrection of the Negroes— A
Legend of the Ravine — Punishments of the conspirators.
In 1730, William Mathew, Esq.,. the lieutenant-governor,
succeeded to this government, vacant by the non-acceptance
of Lord Forbes and General William Crosbie ; and, in the
first year of his appointment, fresh regulations were made for
the payment of such slaves as suffered death for crimes, ac-
cording to the ancient custom of the island. The affairs of
Fort James were also looked into. In 1680, Colonel James
Vaughan, of Antigua, had granted to his majesty Charles II.
and his successors, a certain promontory, generally known
as St. John's Point, for the purpose of building a fort, and
for the support of the matrosses. This had been done as far
as the erection of Fort James ; but the other part of the land
was not used ; and consequently, this year, (1730,) it was
determined that it should be given to the matrosses ; only
reserving a part which might be wanted for the purpose of
building hospitals or magazines. In 1731, Antigua suffered
very much from a long drought ; when the want of water
was so excessive, that a pail of that fluid sold for 3*. The fol-
lowing year (1732) amendments were made in the court of
chancery. By the regulations of 1715, this court was made
90 GOVERNOR MATHEWS' ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS.
to consist of the captain -general or governor-in-chief, and
five or more members of council ; but as his excellency was
not always upon the island when such courts were held, great
delays were occasioned, and it was determined that in future
the president of Antigua should, in the absence of the
governor, or lieutenant-governor, preside.
After a temporary absence, the Lieutenant-governor Wil-
liam Mathew returned to Antigua in the early part of the
year 1733, assuming the government as captain -general of
the Leeward Islands, and presented his additional instructions
to the council and assembly, directing that body to be no
longer restricted, as formerly, from making any additional
allowance to the salary of 1200/. per annum, allowed by the
home government, namely : — " Whereas, it has been repre-
sented to us, that the salary of 1200/. sterling per annum,
which we have hitherto thought fit to allow out of the duty
of four-and-a-half per cent., arising in our Leeward Islands,
for our governor-in-chief of these islands, is not at present suf-
ficient for his support and the dignity of that our govern-
ment, we have taken the same into our consideration, and
are graciously pleased to permit and allow that the respective
assemblies of our said islands may, by any act or acts, settle
upon you such sum or sums, in addition to your salary of
1200/. per aunum, as they shall think proper; and you are
hereby allowed to give your assent to any act or acts of as-
sembly to that purpose. Provided, such sum or sums be
settled on you and your successors in that government ; at
least on you during the whole time of your government
there, and that the same be done by the first respective as-
semblies of our said island after your arrival there."
In accordance with this new arrangement, the council and
assembly readily granted an annual sum of 1000/. Antigua
currency.
In 1 734, copper coins were imported from England, and
passed at about the same rate they do at this day. Bayonets
were also introduced this year into Antigua, for the use of
THE FATE OF KLAAS. 91
the militia, they having been found to answer so well in the
late wars in Flanders. These weapons obtained their name
from being first manufactured at Bayonne, in France.
The events of the year 1736 were such as to strike horror
into the hearts of all the white inhabitants of Antigua. The
negroes, who, as we have before seen, attempted an insur-
rection in 1728, attributed their want of success to the fact
of their having no regular plan ; and accordingly they chose
one of their tribe, a very powerful black man, to be their
king ; and vowed to render to him the strictest homage, and
follow his every order. This man, whose real name was
" Klaas," although his master called him Count, was a per-
son of undaunted courage and strong resolve ; and, was it
not on account of the demise of Governor Mathew's son,
which frustrated their original plan of blowing up govern-
ment house (or at least the house which was hired for the
governor at Clark's Hill) with gunpowder, the night a grand
ball was to be given in honour of the anniversary of the
king's coronation, no doubt Antigua would have been an-
other « Hayti," and " Klaas " another " Christopher
There is still .an old tradition, which relates to this melan-
choly subject; and as it may not prove uninteresting to some
of my readers, I will give it in a newer dress.
€J)e dTate of i&laatf.
A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE.
At a late period in the evening of the 3rd of October,
1736, two horsemen might be seen riding slowly along the
high road which leads from the capital to English Harbour.
The eldest of these travellers was probably past the meridian
of life ; but his round florid face bore not a mark of care,
nor could a single wrinkle be detected upon his open fore-
head. Age, indeed, had tinged his hair with grey, and, per-
haps, slightly bent his form ; but had neither depressed his
spirits nor robbed his laughing blue eye of its lustre. In
92 THE FATE OF KLAAS :
person he was tall and robust ; and although jollity was
written upon every feature, he possessed at the same time
that air of determination which would make few wish to
thwart him in his views, or offer an insult that was sure to
be resented. The animal he bestrode was of a coal-black,
and, like his master, bore his years well. Logo, as he was
called, had often followed the hounds in " merrie England ;"
and, when his master came to take possession of a property
in Antigua, his faithful steed, the sharer of many a long
day's sport, was not to be left behind.
The companion of this first-mentioned traveller was, in
every respect, far different. Scarcely had seventeen sum-
mers passed over his head ; and his slight, but well' formed
person, was in direct contrast to the large and heavy make
of his friend. His rich brown locks clustered around his
lofty brow unspoiled by powder ; but in his large dark eye,
consumption had lit its fire, and flushed, at times, his na-
turally pale cheek.
" Come, Edward," said the elder traveller, addressing the
youth ; " we must mend our pace, lad : here's Logo champ-
ing his bit with every mark of anger at being kept with
tightened reign : the old fellow has too much mettle still
left to like this hippopotamus trot, when he has an hungry
stomach, and the prospect of a well-stored stable before him."
" Ay, uncle ; and one there is at home, who must be as
anxiously looking for us, as Logo is for his stable."
" What, Marien ? Well, I dare say the girl feels the loss of
her cousin Edward from the side of her spinet, if she don't
her old father from his settle in the gallery. Women love
those little attentions you know so well to offer ; and Marien
would miss you from tuning her lute, or turning the pages of
her music book, as I should old Logo, were anything to happen
to him. Dame Nature has made you, boy, to shine in lady's
bower, more, I think, than in tented field."
The deepest hectic sprang to the face of the youth, as his
uncle uttered these words, and a half-smothered sigh broke
A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE. 93
from his lips, which, catching the attention of his companion,
caused him to turn and look ardently at him.
" Nay, dearest Edward, I meant not to distress you ; I
hope your trip to these sunny shores may restore you to
stronger health ; and then you may follow the steps of your
brave father, and fight your country's battles. But we must
not loiter any longer upon the road ; for, in truth, I like not
the appearance of the night, and we have no shelter near. I
care not for myself, for I have weathered too many a storm
to shrink from a sprinkling ; but you are still delicate ; and
your cousin Marien will scold me for having already kept
you out in the heavy night dew of this climate."
So saying, they gave their steeds the rein, and dashed on,
throwing the loose pebbles with which the road was strewed,
on every side.
The night, indeed, was far from promising ; the wind blew
in sudden gusts, and whirled the dead leaves on every side.
A low moaning sound came from the distant mountains, the
sure forerunner of a storm ; while peals of thunder broke
upon the ear. The black clouds drifted rapidly along the sky,
and several meteors gilded the night with their evanescent
glories. Suddenly a deep silence prevailed, broken only by the
sound of the horses' feet upon the flinty road, as the benighted
travellers struck their rowels into the sides of the animals,
to urge them to greater speed. But this boding silence did
not last long ; the wind again rose with redoubled violence —
the thunder rolled in awful peals — and a sheet of vivid light-
ning covered the whole face of the heavens ; clap followed
clap in rapid succession, shaking the very earth to its centre;
the rain came down in torrents, yet still the red-winged light-
ning struggled through it, and kept up its terrific fire.
A moment's patise in the storm gave the elder traveller
time to exclaim — " Well, Edward, my prognostications have
proved true, have they not ? Poor Marien must indeed feel
anxious ;" when, just at this instant, a dark object issued out
of a kind of ravine which appeared on one side of the road,
94 THE FATE OF KLAAS :
and darted across the path close to the horses' heads.
*« What was that?" continued the speaker. "Was it man
or animal ? My glance was so momentary, that indeed I
know not." " A boy," returned his companion, u an* my
eyes deceived me, or it was Marien's dumb page." " What!
Julio ? Impossible ! What could the boy do abroad in such
a night ? unless" — and the speaker paused ; " unless, indeed,
Marien sent him forth to gain some tidings of us; for
although the poor little fellow was born deaf and dumb,
he has the brightest intellect and swiftest foot of any negro
I ever knew. I have often promised to tell you his story;
and as the tempest seems to have worn away a little, I may
as well give it now, which will tend to make the road seem
the shorter.
u Julio's mother was the foster-parent of my own Marien,
although at that period she did not belong to me. But she
was a great favourite of my wife's, and for that reason we
hired her to nurse our child ; and after my wife's death, I
purchased her from her old master, who was a friend of
mine. Nuno was a very superior negress; and was it not
on account of her husband, ' Count,' whom I pointed out to
you the other day as the reputed king of the negroes, I do
really think she might have been living now. She never
would say what he did to her, or indeed make any complaint
against him ; but I am certain there was something myste-
rious about it ; for when afterwards she was confined with
Julio, she made it her dying request to me that Count might
never know the child was his, or the boy be told who his
father was. This < Count,' as be is called, although I believe
he bears another name, made a great deal of talk in the
country some few years ago. It appears, his master had
him severely flogged for a trifling offence, and Count ran
away; but he afterwards came back, and all was forgiven,
although his master might have had him hung for it, without
any loss to himself. There is a law of the island, which
punishes with death any negro who runs away for longer
A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE. 95
than three months, and the country pays their value to their
owners. I heard a flying report of an intended insurrection
of the negroes while we were in town to-day ; but for my
part, I give no credit to it. They have not forgotten the
rebellion of Crump's negroes yet, and the punishment
awarded to the offenders, which will keep them quiet, at
least for a little time. I have heard, that Count was con-
cerned in that affair; but none of the culprits mentioned his
name ; and although, from the character of the man, I should
not think it unlikely, for the sake of poor Juno, I would not
accuse him. But to return to Julio. His mother died imme-
diately after his birth, and no one but ourselves, and his
mother's brother, a slave named Cuffee, know who is his
father. Upon finding the poor child was deaf and dumb,
our hearts have been drawn the closer to him ; and as soon
as my affairs are arranged in this island, I shall return to
England, and intend carrying Julio with me."
By this time, the travellers had gained an ascent, and before
them was spread a cluster of negro-huts, various out-buildings,
and works of a flourishing estate ; while on the top of another
eminence stood the hospitable mansion of the owner. In a
moment, all was bustle. *' Massa come home !" was shouted
from one to another, as a party of black boys and men
started from their slumbers upon the dry trash, and ran to
take the horses. After seeing Logo properly attended to,
the travellers walked to the house, where, at an open jalousie,
a slight figure, whose graceful outline bespoke it Marien's,
was seen watching their progress. The family party having
once more met, and a thousand inquiries as to their ride &c.
having been made, Marien touched a silver bell, and a
domestic entering, orders were given to send in Julio. " By-
the-bye," exclaimed the elder gentleman, " didst thou send
forth Julio in search of your absentees to-night, Marien?" —
" No, dearest father ; Julio has not left the anteroom since
dinner, that I am aware of. Anxious as I was to gain tidings
of you, the night was too inclement to send the poor child
96 THE FATE OF KLAAS :
abroad. But why do you ask that question ?" — " Oh ! no-
thing; only that our bright-eyed Edward thought he saw
him cross the road at the ravine down yonder ; but I think
it must have been a dog, or something of the kind. How-
ever, to be certain, I mentioned it to you." At this moment
the door opened, and Julio entered. He had, perhaps, attained
his eighth year ; but from his diminutive form, a stranger
would have thought him even younger. His dress was a
kind of white tunic embroidered with crimson, and a broad
belt of gilded leather, with tassels of bullion, gathered it in
folds around his slender waist. Smart silk stockings encased
his legs, and white leather shoes, ornamented with gold,
graced his little feet. When abroad, a small crimson cap,
in which was placed a single ostrich feather, reposed upon
his head : its snowy plume strangely contrasting with his
ebon complexion. It was Mar i en's whim to dress her page
in this fantastic manner, and her indulgent parent never
thwarted her in any of her little pleasures.
The deficiencies of poor Julio's external faculties did not
extend to his intellects. The slightest action of Marien's was
noticed by him, and her every wish gratified, if possible.
Did a shade pass over her brow, he flew for her lute, or
arranged her books at the spinet ; did a smile illuminate her
face, Julio jumped for joy. It was his task to gather for her
the sweetest fruits, and range the tangled copse and dell to
cull the fairest flowers; and when she walked abroad, he
attended the steps of his young mistress, and swept from her
path every noisome insect. Bright were the eyes of Julio,
and joyous was the look expressed in his dark round face ;
but on this evening, when, at the summons of his mistress, he
stood before her, every one was struck with the alteration
in his appearance. His cheek was blanched to an unearthly
hue — his eyes, bloodshot and dim, sought the floor ; while
a shudder seemed to run through hie frame, as if he saw
some dreaded form. To the anxious inquiries of the party,
expressed by significant gestures, the boy only shook his
A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE. 97
head, while a darker shade of sadness passed over his brow.
Thinking that a slight degree of illness was the cause,
Marien kindly dismissed him to his repose, in hopes the
morrow's dawn would restore him to his usual gaiety , and
rising from her seat, placed in her father's hand a small
billet. " A grand ball at Government House, eh I to be
given in honour of our good king's coronation. What
say you to that, young people ? Wilt thou pay thy devo-
tions at the shrine of the laughter-loving muse ? No doubt,
all the beauty and fashion of Antigua will be there. But
come, the hour is past midnight ; and if I keep our Marien
up so late, she will lose the last of her roses she brought
from Old England." So saying, the party separated for the
night ; and the scene changes to another spot, at an earlier
hour.
* * * * *
# In one of the deepest parts of a ravine grew a variety of
tangled bushes, which clothed it to its very bottom with
their verdant foliage. Disrupted rocks were thickly scattered
about, over which glided the speckled snake, while cricket
and frog kept up an incessant chirping. About the com-
mencement of the storm already described, a dark figure was
seen slowly, but firmly descending the steep bank of the
ravine, whose nearer approach bespoke him a son of Ham,
one who wore the chain of bondage. In height he measured
about six feet, while his broad chest and muscular arms
shewed his Herculean strength. His complexion was of the
deepest jet, and his large black eye shone with the fierceness
of a firebrand. A mantle of dark blue cloth was wrapt around
his form, leaving his arms and legs bare ; and his head was
bound round with a scarlet handkerchief, the ends of which
floated in the breeze with graceful negligence. In one hand
he bore a massive club, which assisted his steps in his descent;
while the other rested upon a horse-pistol, which, heavily
loaded, lay hid in the folds of his garment. Upon gaining
the bottom of the ravine, he looked cautiously around ; and
VOL. I. F
98 THE FATE OF KLAAS.
then, as if satisfied all was right, he raised a conch-shell to
his lips, and blew a low but clear blast. This repeated
thrice, he seated himself upon one of the rocks ; and burying
his face in his hands, mused in silence, unmindful of the
threatening appearance of the heavens. But a few minutes
passed, when he again started to his feet, and blew a louder
blast, which at a short interval was answered by a low
whistle ; and the crackling of dry leaves (as if trodden under
foot) proclaimed the approach of other visitants. Drawing
the pistol from its confinement, the first occupant of the
ravine stepped a few paces forward, and, in a voice rendered
thick by contending passions, demanded the word. " Death
to our foes !" was the answer ; and in another moment, about
forty negroes stood around their king. " Welcome, brave
friends, to this lone spot ; for here at least we can feel we
are free, and bid defiance to the hated whites. But where
is Morah ? Surely she will not desert us, Tomboy ?" And he
directed his looks to a short stout man, who ranked as his
general, and answered to that name, and who had taken up
his post at the right shoulder of his sable majesty. " Oh,
no; Morah knows too well to desert Klaas at his need.
Believe not that, 1 ' returned the man. " We should have been
here long before, but she was knocked up with her walk, and
we were obliged to wait her will. But see I v — and touching
the arm of Klaas, he pointed to two lusty youths who were
coming down the bank, bearing between them some object,
which could scarcely be pronounced human. Placing their
burden safely at the feet of Klaas, the young men drew back,
while he, giving her his hand, raised and placed her upon
a rocky seat near himself. The woman, (for so she proved,)
although looking more like the habitant of another world,
must have numbered her hundredth year. Her face, which
had lost its naturally black hue from age and sickness, was
puckered up in a thousand wrinkles ; while her toothless
gums were seen through her thick open lips. The few hairs
which time had left her were bleached to a snowy white ;
A LEGEND OF THE BAVIN E. 99
but her black eyes had lost none of their brightness : they
gleamed from beneath her overhanging brow with a super-
natural ray. Her form was bent almost double, and the skin
hang about her hands and arms like black and shrivelled
parchment. An old blanket partly covered her attenuated
person, which she firmly grasped with her long bony fingers;
but it afforded her no defence against the inclemency of the
evening ; for she shivered and trembled at every blast. Such
was Morah, the old Obeah woman,* who was hated, yet
dreaded, by nearly all her tribe.
" Month/' said the leader of the band, after she had rested
for a few minutes, " Morah, dost thou not know me ? hast
thou forgot the purpose for which we have met ? The time is
short, remember."
" Oh, no, no ! me no forget," said the old crone ; " me
know you very well ; you're * Count,' the negro king, as you
call yourself, but your massa call you * Count the Runaway,' "
and she laughed demoniacally.
" Call me Klaas," shrieked the negro ; " oh ! call me not
Count — the name of my servitude — the name those detested
whites gave me when, torn from all my heart holds dear, and
forced into their ships, they brought me to this country, and
sold me, for a miserable pittance, to the man I despise — the
man who, for a small fault, had me flogged until the blood
gushed down my back. Yes! flogged me, who was born
heir to a kingdom, and who followed the chase in my own
bright land, free as the zephyr which kisses its sunny moun-
tains, until the fortunes of war made me the despised, de-
graded slave I am. . Call me not ' Count,' I say ; for every
misery I have ever borne is recalled by that hated name.
Why was it I spurned poor Nuno from me, and embittered
her after life ? Because, in a moment of repose — when the
weary toil of the day was over — seated before our hut in
the bright moonbeam, I talked to her of Africa, and of my
hopes of soon escaping from my degraded state, she raised
* A dealer in necromancy.
f2
100 THE FATE OF KLAAS.
the demon within me by calling me ' Count, 1 when I had
taught her to use no other name but 'Klaas;' and thus
bringing all my wrongs before me, I vowed to sacrifice our
child to the gods of my country should its eyes ever see the
light. Oh, then, call me not ' Count* in this wild ravine,
where everything breathes an air of freedom, although I am
obliged to bear it (but not for long, I hope) before the ab-
horred Christians. Oh ! call me not ' Count/ unless — " and
he flung his arms on high, while his eyeballs rolled in fire,
and every nerve quivered with emotion — " unless you wish
to see me, like the hunted lanteY turn on all alike. But
enough ;" — and by strong effort he mastered his turbulent
passions, although the perspiration flowed from off his fore-
head in large drops, and his breast heaved like the stormy
billow ; — •* I came not here to-night to recite my wrongs, or
the wrongs of these my comrades ; but to plan our redemp-
tion from them, and the destruction of our enemies. To
business, then. But first let me ask you, Morah, has Obeah
given the sign ?"
" An' think you me come here to-night had he not V* re-
turned the old woman, doggedly ; " ay, that he has, and a
good sign it is ; but p'raps you no want white man dead, eh?
And again the hag uttered her horrible laugh, which seemed
still more so in the midst of a clap of thunder, while her
miserable form looked more unearthly in the lightning's
flash.
" Death to our foes !" broke from the lips of the leader,
which was repeated by all the band ; and then breaking up
the circle in which they had been standing, they proceeded
to prepare the different articles used in their superstitious
orgies, under the inspection of old Morah, while Klaas and
his general, Tomboy, conferred apart.
A large hole being dug in the middle of the ravine, and
all things properly arranged, the king and his companion
were called; when, joining in a rank around the opening,
the mysterious rites began. Morah, squatting at one end of
A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE. 101
the aperture, called upon Obeah, under the title of Nzam-
biampoDgee, to assist them in the extirpation of their foes ;
and after many a mumbled incantation, proceeded to bury
in the hole small quantities of gunpowder, rusty iron, a
little money, and a portion of human hair ; while Klaas added
to the heap by throwing in a few bujis.* After another
incantation was chanted by them all, the hole was carefully
covered over with black dog-bush,f and the earth once
more thrown in and pressed down. At this moment a night-
raven screeched, and Morah interpreted it as a kindly sign
from Obeah ; whilst a beautiful speckled snake, gliding over
the spot, was greeted by Klaas as his country's god. This
ceremony, over, Morah departed, and other business was
discussed. Seated upon his rustic throne, Klaas issued his
mandates to his attentive subjects, who, stretched around,
looked up to him as their presiding divinity.
" In eight days' time," began their king, in a distinct and
audible tone, " there is to be a ball given by the governor,
in honour, they say, of their king, and as all our tyrants are
expected to be present, it has been determined to make that
night the scene of our grand endeavours, that, at one stroke,
shall destroy our enemies, and make us once more free.
Under yonder bushes, where the earth looks fresh, are
buried the kegs of gunpowder which we have, at various
times, been enabled to collect ; and the night before the ball
takes place do you, Quashey Coonah, make it your business
to remove them carefully up to Clark's hill, where Harry,
who has been lately hired there, will have them placed under
the cellar. Frank, I look to you to take care of what
arms we have procured, and also to distribute them.
You will also have those bills sharpened — they may prove
very useful. I make it my duty to fire the train about the
time the moon rises above the top of yon mountain, while
* A small white shell, about the size and shape of an olive, used as
the general currency in Guinea.
f A wild shrub, supposed to be of great use in witchcraft.
102 THE FATE OF KLAAS.
Tomboy will lead the party who is to prevent any of the
whites escaping. Hercules will lay in wait with his band
at the entrance of the town ; so that, when the flames rise
high, and the inhabitants hasten to give them assistance, he
may fall upon them and prevent them* I have sent him
and Jemmy to meet a large party of negroes up to wind-
ward to-night, who. no doubt, will aid us with their force ;
and as many of them are in the habit of going out shooting
for their masters, they may be able to add a little to our
stock of powder. Ned, do you try and obtain what arms
you can ; in such a cause, any means are fair."
" Ah ! that I will, King Klaas ; and look what I have
brought you to-night," and turning round, he drew from its
sheath a blade of the finest steel ; " what say you to Massa
Colonel's own good sword. He told me to take care of it
to-day, after he had done looking at it, and to put it carefully
up ; and so I have, ah ! ah ! " and Ned laughed until the
water ran down his cheeks*
" That's right, my fine fellow !" exclaimed Klaas ; and
taking it from the hand of his comrade, he examined, with
intense interest, its shining surface. After some moments
had passed in this employment, he replaced it carefully in
its sheath, and, with something like a sigh, exclaimed, —
" Well, I have been driven to this. They might have made
me their friend, but harshness, contempt, and insult, has
conspired to render me what I am ; and for this bright wea-
pon, perhaps the gallant Colonel Morgan has often drawn it
in a far less worthy cause. But hist ! I hear the sound of
horses' feet, and it is time we part. At the close of three
more days, meet me here again to receive final orders ; till
then, farewell ; and remember our motto — • Death to our
foes I'" So saying, Klaas rose from his seat, and grasping
once more his club, prepared to depart. At this moment,
however, a slight rustle was heard among the brushwood,
as if some person was retreating, and Kiaas, drawing his
pistol from his bosom, started forward in that direction,
followed by the others. "What could it be?" was the
A LEGEND OF THE BAVTNE. 103
anxious inquiry, when, after a strict search, no object met
their view. "What, indeed!" replied their chief; "if it
was any of our friends, why did they not come forward ;
but if it was a foe — a spy — our plans of vengeance will be
defeated, and we ourselves dragged to a felon's death ;" and
he ground his teeth at the thought. As nothing else could
be done, they once more bade good night, and departed to
their respective homes, leaving Klaas and his general to
make one more attempt to discover the cause of the noise.
*****
Six times had the chariot of the sun rolled along the
heavens, and bright-eyed Phoebus sought his golden couch,
since the conspirators gathered around their king in that
wild and silent glen. Among the inhabitants of Antigua no-
thing was talked of but the governor's ball, which was to be
upon the grandest scale imaginable. Many a young heart
beat high at the prospect of its gaieties, and many a bright
eye grew brighter at the thoughts of the conquests to be
made on that eventful night. The few shops which dealt in
European fashions were crowded from morning to night with
fair visitants, or their femmes de chambre ; and laces and
bugles, catgut and tiffany, were in constant demand. The
busy sempstresses plied their needles with double speed ; and
various were the flounces and furbelows, pinkings and quilt-
in gs, they invented. In the midst of this bustle and activity,
this anticipation of joyous festivities, a plaint of distress was
borne down upon the gale : the governor's best-beloved
son — the hope and pride of his parents — tossed his fevered
head upon the couch of sickness ; and in a few short hours,
that beautiful and blooming youth lay a stiffened corse.
*****
In a large but well-arranged apartment, whose open ja-
lousies admitted the evening breeze, loaded with the fra-
grance of the Arabian jasmine, were seated three persons.
Two out of the group ranked under the lofty title of " lords
of the creation ;" but the third was a young and beautiful
creature, whose elegant figure and flowing ringlets bespoke
104 THE FATE OF KLAAS.
her one of Nature's fairest flowers. Reclining upon a.fauteuil,
she drew from a lute sounds so soft and sweet that every
sense was held in thraldom ; and anon, when she joined her
liquid voice, and sang of other days, few were there who
would wish to break the spell. But the spell was ordained
to be broken — broken in a sudden manner. The door opened
hastily, and a negro, darting into the middle of the room,
exclaimed, in a voice of terror — " Massa, me must speak
with you!" — i€ What's the matter ?" returned our elder ac-
quaintance, rising up, " what's the matter, Cuffee ? You
frightened us by your sudden entrance, and sent my Marien's
roses back to her heart." — '« Beg your pardon, massa, and
yours, young missis, but me have something to tell you
make your ears ring again : but, massa, where's Julio ? —
please let him come in." And without waiting for an an-
swer, he left the room in search of the boy. " Marien,
dearest/' said her father, ''take your cousin's arm, and retire
for a little, until I have heard what the mad fellow has to
say : his foolish nonsense has frightened you more than I
like to see/' And fondly pressing his daughter's hand, he
led her to the door.
In a few minutes Cuffee returned with the boy Julio,
who wore the same downcast look as he did on the evening
of the storm ; and, holding the boy by the hand, gave his
master the following narration. Julio, who, from being
deaf and dumb, appeared to possess the other senses in
a higher degree, had one evening observed a strange
negro loitering about his master's estate, and hiding behind
the bushes when any one passed. Thinking this peculiar, the
dumb boy determined to watch his proceedings, and if he
discovered anything wrong, to endeavour to acquaint his
master with it. After spending more than an hour in this
employment, the stranger departed, and Julio, unable to
comprehend his motives, and fearful of not being understood,
kept his discovery to himself. Some weeks had elapsed, and
he had almost forgotten the circumstance, when, on the
A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE. 105
evening before the storm, he saw the same person lurking
about the same spot ; and, watching him unobserved, per-
ceived he was shortly joined by a slave, of the name of
Quelch, who, for repeated bad behaviour, had been pun-
ished by his master a few weeks before. After they had con-
sulted for some time together, the stranger pointed in the
direction of the ravine ; and putting his hand under his
cloak, drew forth a long sharp-pointed knife, which he
shewed to his companion, giving at the same time a peculiar
look. The knife being returned to its owner, the negroes
parted, leaving Julio with the determination of watching
Quelch more strictly.
On the next evening, leaving his young mistress engaged
with a book, the boy left the house with the intention
of going to look for his master; and, upon gaining the
high road, he saw Quelch entering an opening on the
other side. Following his steps, he hid himself among the
bushes, and thus became a witness of that lawless meet-
ing, where, although he could not hear the words uttered,
he saw enough to inform him some evil was intended.
Frightened, and uncertain how to tell his discovery, his first
care was to reach home ; and, harassed in mind and body,
the poor child stood before his mistress in the manner de-
scribed. The next morning, he sought his uncle CufFee,
and, by significant gestures and passionate mutterings, at
length made him understand the above relation. CufFee's
first care was to inform a friend of his of the name of
Robin, and these two negroes watched the ravine every
night in hopes of discovering what poor Julio could not in-
form them — the names of the conspirators. All, however,
remained silent : the ravine had no occupants : and Robin
and CufFee were almost inclined to think they had misun-
derstood the boy, when, one evening, just as they had gained
their accustomed post, they thought they heard the sound of
voices ; and, creeping upon their hands and knees, espied
the whole band, with Klaas, or, as they called him, " Count,"
f3
106 THE FATE OF KLAA8.
at their head, plotting their dreadful schemes. Knowing that
this negro king was the father of Julio, Cuffee liked not to
inform against him ; and the next morning bringing intelli-
gence of the death of the governor's son, and consequently
the prorogation of the ball, he was in hopes the negroes
would get disheartened at the failure of their plans, and
forego their horrible intentions. Still he determined to keep
an eye upon their movements ; and a few weeks after, through
the medium of another slave, named Manuel, he discovered
that the conspirators intended to put their designs into exe-
cution on the 15th of December ; and that they were to have
a final meeting in the ravine, to receive orders from their
king.
These were the tidings Cuffee conveyed to his master's
ear — tidings which made his stout heart beat faster, and
caused a shade of care, for once, to cross his brow. The
time was short : the next night was the one on which the
negroes were to meet, and Mr* , after leaving a kind
message to his daughter, to excuse his absence, started im-
mediately for the capital, accompanied by Robin and Cuffee,
to lay the information before the proper authorities.
# ' * * * *
The evening was calm. There was no moon, but the
stars shone bright, and, by their refulgence, parties of men
were seen walking cautiously along in the same direction.
Every now and then they stopped as if to listen, and then
proceeded again, as no sound met their ear. Leaving the
high road, they struck across a wild and sterile plain, until,
arriving at the bank of a kind of rocky defile, where the sable
conspirators held their nocturnal meetings, they separated ;
and taking up their position on all sides, and holding their
very breath, they presented more the appearance of marble
statues than living men. After remaining in this situation
for some time, a noise was heard as the tramp of a body of
horse passing over a flinty road — no uncommon occurrence
at that period. The sound came nearer and nearer, and pre-
sently a large band of soldiers appeared in sight, led by a
▲ LEGEND OF THE RAVINE. 107
middle-aged officer, and accompanied by several gentlemen.
Riding for a short distance past the ravine, the word was
given, " Halt ! " and in a moment the horses stood motion-
less. " Dismount !" broke from the lips of the commander,
and the men, all heavily armed, sprang to the ground.
Walking quickly forward, they joined the watchers around
the ravine, while their leader, followed by many others,
bounded down the bank, and exclaimed, in a stentorian
tone, " Surrender ! or you are dead men." All was confu-
sion among the assembled conspirators. Hemmed in on ail
sides, and daunted by the gleaming arms and pointed mus-
kets of the soldiers, who came so silently but surely upon
them, the negro band were driven to despair. Klaas
alone maintained his firmness, and shouted in a voice of
thunder, " Fire the gunpowder, lads, fire the gunpowder,
and let us die as brave men, and not as cowards. Who will
mourn the fate which will be shared by our hated tyrants ! "
But this was not to be. Overpowered by numbers,' their
arms tightly pinioned behind them, their mouths gagged,
and held between two soldiers, negro after negro was
marched off — the ravine was left to its usual silence — and
the reign of t€ Klaas," the *' Slave King," was over.
So ends the legend. The conspirators being conveyed to
the capital, various were the punishments awarded them.
Klaas, or, as he was more generally called, " Count,"
Tomboy, and Hercules were broken alive upon the
wheel. In their last moments their fortitude did not for-
sake them; and their last words expressed their hatred to
the whites. Some were gibbeted alive in a place called
Green's Bay. Frank, who belonged to £. Chester, Esq.,
and several more, were burned in Otto's pasture, at the
outskirts of the capital ; and the rest, who were looked upon
as the dupes of their reputed king, were transported to
the Spanish coasts* Quelch was pardoned : he played the
traitors part, and amused the ear of Klaas and his com-
108 LAWS RESPECTING SLAVE8.
rades with some chimerical scheme while the soldiers passed
by who accomplished their destruction ; and old Morah,
the Obeah woman who attended their meetings, escaped
punishment by falling a prey to death before her trial. So
signal was the victory obtained, and so severe the punish-
ment of the conspirators, that the remaining slaves became
intimidated, and quietly bore their yoke without seeking
for deliverance. In 1789, the country emancipated Cuffee
and Robin for their discovery of this insurrection, paying
to their masters their respective value, and presented Manuel
with a reward for his services in that affair.*
CHAPTER X.
Governor William Mathew — Sir George Thomas, Bart. — James
Verchild — Honourable William Woodley — Sir Ralph Payne — Hon.
Craister Greathead — General Burt — The circumstances of his death
— Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart
After the suppression of the insurrection related in the
last chapter, it was resolved in future to keep a better watch
over the negroes, and be more strict in the government of
them. Slaves were not to be allowed to congregate about
the streets of St. John's ; and if they refused to disperse,
when ordered to do so, it was justifiable to fire upon them :
the country paying for those who were shot. If any of the
negroes were suspected of treasonable practices, conspiracies,
or insurrections, they were to suffer torture, not extending
to death ; but in case any of them died under the pain of
having a limb cut off, &c, the owner of such slaves received
the value of them from the public treasury.
The inhabitants appear to have been quite alarmed at the
state of affairs, particularly as there were but few white
* For some further particulars, see Appendix, No. 14.
HOSTILITIES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ENGLAND. 109
people still upon the island compared with the negroes. In
1740-1, it was again taken into consideration how to increase
the number ; and after some deliberation, it was determined
to give further encouragement for the importation of white
servants, by adding a bounty of 40s. to that already given.
It was also ordained, that every owner or renter of slaves
should, for every thirty negroes, have a white man in his
employ, under a penalty of 20/. for each, according to the
number of slaves. This gave rise to the custom of building
" free tenancies," which were houses given to white persons
to reside in, without receiving rent for the same ; and by
this means, the proprietor escaped the obligation which the
law enforced of employing so many white servants or over-
seers.
In 1741, Rat Island,, as it is called, although in reality
a promontory, was purchased by the country, and barracks
and fortifications erected thereon. War having broken out
between England and France, the Antiguans suffered very
much in their commerce. Commodore Lee had been sent
out to protect the trade, but, it appears, he did not act
like a British officer; for when stationed off Antigua, he
allowed a French fleet of merchantmen and their convoy to
pass his vessels without molestation, and actually captured
some of the Antigua coasters. In 1747, complaints against
him were sent home, and Commodore Legge was despatched
to Antigua, with full power to try the case. The Antiguans
were obliged this year to purchase and maintain a vessel to
protect their small crafts, so haj^ssed were they by the
French privateers.
The lieutenant-governor of Antigua, Colonel George Lucas,
died this year, (1747,) at Brest, where he was detained pri-
soner, having been taken by a French vessel of war, on his
way to England the year before. The following year, (1748,)
a petition was sent home, praying his majesty for satisfac-
tion for the injury suffered by the incursions of the French.
About this period, the court-house was commenced to be built,
110 GOVERNOR THOMAS.
on the spot where the market used to be held. Hitherto
a house was rented for that purpose, which was found to be
very inconvenient, for many reasons ; and as there was no
particular place appointed for the offices of the secretary or
provost-marshal, it was found expedient to erect such build-
ing as soon as possible, and appropriate a part of it for
those offices.
In 1752, George Thomas, Esq., succeeded his excellency
William Mathew, Esq., in the government of Antigua, and
the rest of the Leeward Islands, as captain-general. The
following year (1753) a fund was raised to purchase land,
for the purpose of building additional barracks for the
accommodation of the regiment of foot stationed in Antigua,
and also building a guard-house in the town of St. John's.
In the same year, an additional support for his excellency,
George Thomas, was appointed to be paid to him during
his government. The erection of a new church at Parham
was commenced in 1755 ; a yearly tax having been imposed
upon the inhabitants, for the expense of the erection, and
for keeping it afterwards repaired. This year, too, it was
found, that the white inhabitants had so materially decreased
in number, notwithstanding strenuous measures had been
taken since 1716 to encourage the importation of them, that
it was thought necessary to offer further inducements to
white persons to emigrate from England to this colony. In
order that this object should be more fully carried out,
heavier penalties were also this year enforced upon pro-
prietors and renters of nrcroes, if they neglected to have in
their employ a white Protestant person for every thirty
slaves ; for many owners had evaded the law, by paying the
penalty, rather than be obliged to maintain a white servant.
The number of white inhabitants at this period was but
little more than 3000, while the negroes amounted to about
32,000. In 1757, a portion of land was appropriated for
building a house for the accommodation of the train of
artillery in the town of St. John's.
INTRODUCTION OF METHODISM. Ill
In 1758, the French threatened an invasion of Antigua.
War had broken out between England, and France ; and, as
was always the case in such times, the French began to
plague their English neighbours in the West Indies. The
Antiguans, hearing of their intentions, hastily equipped several
privateers to cruise about the island, which were fortunate
enough to take some prizes, and intimidate the French. It
was found by experience, that these privateers injured the
French more in their commerce than even the men-of-war ;
and for this reason, the country gave great encouragement
to the fitters-out of such vessels.
The following year, (1759,) Commodore Moore com-
manded the Leeward Island station, and the brave Captain
Tyrrel was ordered to protect the island of Antigua. This
gentleman, whose courage and activity were equal to his
conduct and circumspection, had, early in the month of
March previous, demolished a fort at Martinique, and de-
stroyed four privateers riding under its protection. On his
return to Antigua, he discovered a large fleet of the enemy's ;
and giving immediate chase, attended by the " Weazle"
man-of-war, he quickly came up with them, and after a
desperate fight, scattered and dispersed them. Capt. Tyrrel
was wounded in the face, and lost three of the fingers of his
right hand. This year, too, the island of Guadaloupe was
taken by the English ; and the Antiguans (on the faith of
a proclamation issued by the governor, pledging the country
to pay the value of such slaves as might be killed or
desert) sent a large complement of negroes to act as pioneers,
and assist in drawing the artillery. During the next year,
several prizes were taken by the Antigua privateers; and
Captain O'Brien, of H. M. S. « Griffen, v assisted by Captain
Taylor of the " Temple," took three large vessels off Antigua,
and brought them into English Harbour.
The year 1760 is celebrated for the introduction of me*
thodism into Antigua, by a Mr. Gilbert, which, from a very
small beginning, has overspread the whole island, and proved
112 GOVERNOR VERCHILD.
of infinite value to the inhabitants. In 1761, assurance was
prohibited on all French vessels and merchandise ; and also
all vessels trading to France, or the French colonise, during
the waf. During this year regulations were made respecting
the manumission of slaves. Antigua certainly set a bright
example to the other islands, in days of slavery, of never with-
holding from its negroes that privilege. The following year,
1762, the necessity of having the laws of the island printed
was again brought before the council and assembly, which
was unanimously agreed to. The same year Antigua again
supplied a complement of strong negroes, to serve as pioneers,
&c, under the command of the Right Honourable the Earl
of Albemarle, in an intended expedition against Martinique.
The year 1765 was the last that Sir George Thomas conti-
nued in the government of the Leeward Caribbee Islands.*
James Verchild, Esq., was appointed to succeed Sir
George Thomas in the government in 1766; and during that
year harbour-masters were appointed. Antigua still ap-
pearing deficient in white inhabitants, in 1767 further regu-
lations were made, which would, it was hoped, tend to
increase the number, and retain in the island many families
who were upon the point of leaving it. The cause of these
persons emigrating, it appears, was on account of their not
being allowed to reckon the female members of their family,
in the place of a white servant to so many slaves, as the law
required, as was the case in Jamaica and St. Vincent's ; it
was therefore deemed expedient this year to give way in
this respect, and permit two women to count as one man.
In 1768, William Woodley, Esq., was appointed com-
mander-in-chief of Antigua, and the other Leeward Caribbee
Islands. During his administration, a dreadful fire broke
out in the town of St. John's, which did great damage, but
of which a further account will be given in another part of
this work. Large sums of money were granted, and a col-
* For genealogy of this gentleman, and when created a Baronet, see
Appendix, No. 15.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF SUGAR- ANTS. 113
lection made for the sufferers at Liverpool. Precautions
were afterwards taken, by regulating certain buildings about
the capital ; but unfortunately those wise regulations have
long since fallen into disuse. In 1709, the snow " Rodney"
put into Antigua, in distress. She had been despatched
from England with convicts, who were to be employed in
the State of Maryland, but meeting first with bad weather,
and afterwards long calms, all their provisions were con-
sumed ; and when they fortunately made Antigua, eleven of
the convicts had died from starvation, and the survivors had
eaten their very shoes.
In 1771, Sir Ralph Payne, K.G., succeeded to the govern-
ment. His excellency was a native of St. Kitts, and was
esteemed for many qualities. The Antiguans were quite
pleased with his nomination, supposing he would have the in-
terests of these colonies greatly at heart. The first year of his
administration the common gaol was rebuilt, which had been
burnt down in the late fire ; and a portion of land, contigubus
to it, purchased for the purpose of enlarging that part appro-
priated for the use of the debtors. The year 177 1 is celebrated
as that in which the " Sugar Ants 19 first made their appearance
in Antigua. They were supposed to have made their way
from Dominica to this island ; and, minute as they are, they
proved a most formidable enemy, by destroying an immense
quantity of sugar-canes. This year also marks the appoint-
ment of Sir George Pownall to the situation of provostmaster-
general of the Leeward Islands, under letters patent, dated
7th June, in the eleventh year of the reign of his majesty
George III. This grant had been made to the father of Sir
George, after the death of the former patentee, Mr. Richard
Phelps — " to be held with all fees, rights, profits, privileges,
and advantages," for the lives of Mr. Pownall, and his two
sons, Sir George Pownall, and Mr. John Lillington Pownall.
In 1772, Antigua suffered very much from the effects of
a hurricane ; great damage was done to the shipping both
in St. John's Harbour, and also in English Harbour. The
114 8ERIOU8 DAHAGE BT A HURRICANE.
* 4 Chatham/' commanded by Admiral Parry, the " Sea-
horse,* and some other vessels of his majesty's service, were
driven on shore, and several merchantmen were sunk. In
1774, Sir Ralph Payne was ordered home, much against the
wish of the Antiguans ; and a petition was forwarded to
England praying his majesty to re-appoint him.
Craister Greathead, Esq., another West Indian, succeeded
Sir Ralph Payne as commander-in-chief in 1775, but he ap-
pears to have given St. Kitts the preference, principally resid-
ing in that island. Nothing of importance occurred during
his administration ; happily for the Antiguans, war was prin-
cipally confined to another quarter, which gave them a
little time to look about them, and redress their domestic
grievances.
In 1777, General William Mathew Burt was appointed
to the government, and a suitable residence prepared for his
reception. The following year, war, blood-stained war, un-
furled his red banner in these "gems of the sea" — these
beautiful West Indian islands. On all sides of Antigua did
the battle rage; island after island surrendered either to
French or English prowess ; and the fears of the Antiguans
were raised for the safety of their little domicile. Nor was
war alone the only impending evil she had to dread ; the
heavens withheld their bounty, and the country fainted be-
neath a burning sun ; famine, it was supposed, would be
the result, and had it not been for the interposition of
his gracious majesty George III., by advancing 20,000/.
sterling to procure subsistence for the negroes, their fears
would have proved too true. Yet although this kind loan
to the country averted much evil, the series of calamities
they had already suffered caused so much sickness, that in
the course of the next year, 1780, it was the opinion of Dr.
Samuel Athill that upwards of eight thousand negroes died.
In 1778, fresh regulations were made for the better go-
vernment of slaves, and for establishing certain days, viz. —
the whole time from sunset on Christmas-eve, to sunrise of
the 28th of December, as their holidays. No other days
LADY RODNEY. 115
were to be allowed the slaves by their owners in place
of those specified ; and no slave-holder could refuse to allow
them such holidays, under a penalty of 100/. : one-half of the
fine to go to the informer, the other half to the public trea-
sury — during these holidays martial law was to be in force.
About this period Lord Rodney took command of the
fleet which was stationed in these seas, and was fortunate
enough to beat off the French, and thus spare the Antiguans
the horrors of an invasion, which was but too successful at
St. Kitts. The name of this gallant officer is still remembered
with gratitude and affection by West Indians; and not
many years ago, the stranger who visited Barbados was
highly entertained with an old black woman, who passed by
the title of " Lady Rodney/' and who wore upon her dark
fat arm a picture of the Admiral, which he gave her at
parting. But alas ! like the noble lord, she has passed to
another world, and no longer do the young midds of her
majesty's service, who visit Barbados, recognise her shrill
cry of " hab best guaba fine pine, and hot ginger drink for
noung buckru me lob."
The fortifications of Goat Hill, and Great George Fort, at
Barnacle Point, were completed during the administration of
General Burt, as well as several other forts, which were very
necessary in this season of warfare. About this period
slaves were forbidden to vend sugar, rum, molasses, or sugar
canes, besides many other articles.
The circumstances attending the death of Governor Burt
were very extraordinary. Upon a certain day his excellency
honoured a gentleman of the island with his company to
dinner, and during the repast he was as gay as any at that
festive board. Soon after the cloth was withdrawn, when
the laughing wine sparkled in the crystal chalice, and, sur-
rounded by all the good things of this world, the convivial
party threw off all cares, they were surprised to hear the
governor call to his servant to bring his sword, which he
always carried abroad with him. Woudering at this com-
mand, yet too well bred to make inquiries, the company
116 DEATH OF GOVERNOR BURT.
waited in silence until the order was performed. The
sword was brought and handed to the governor ; when, un-
sheathing it in an instant, he exclaimed, in a loud voice —
" Tell that fellow to quit the back of my chair, or I will run
him through !" The company were more amazed than ever.
What could the governor mean ? no one was behind his chair ;
no one was in the room but themselves and the domestics.
Uncertain what to do or say, they still remained silent ; when
the governor repeated, in a still louder tone, " Send away
that man, or 1 will run him through !" It was represented to
his excellency that he laboured under a mistake, that no one
was behind his chair ; but it was of no avail, all that could
be got from him was, " Send away that man, or I will run
him through !" In this state he was carried home, and every
art tried to restore him to his proper senses; but all was of no
avail, he never recovered the shock ; and in a short time after
he fell a prey to that insatiable monster, Death, who so justly
says — •
" I visit the halls of the great and gay,
And snatch them from all their delight away ;
I rest at the villager's humble door,
For welcome alike are the rich and the poor."
It has been said that the governor was poisoned, and that
the mixture, or whatever other form it was administered in,
was so prepared as to have the effects of unsettling his reason ;
but possibly it was a case of delirium tremens, without the
assistance of any deleterious drug or herb.
This circumstance is related in a different manner ; and
as I am not aware which is the most correct, will lay them
both before my readers, that they may judge for them-
selves. „ General Burt, it is said, was dining at a party at
" Pensive Hall," (the name of the great house upon Martin
B yam's estate, now belonging to Messrs. Shands, of Liver-
pool, England,) when he saw an apparition, which informed
him, that ere twelve moons had waxed and waned, this man-
date should be issued to him — " Thou shalt die and not live !"
He related the circumstance to the party, and expressed his
GREAT VICTORY OVER THE FRENCH FLEET. 117
firm belief in it. His friends removed him to the Great
House upon Weir's estate, (the present seat of Francis
By am Ottly, Esq.,) and by convivial parties, strove to over-
come his melancholy forebodings ; but all was of no effect.
He finally sailed for England, and died upon his passage, the
very day twelve months he saw the apparition.
After the death of General Burt, in 1781, Major-General
Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart., was appointed to the office of
commander-in-chief. No events of importance marked the
first year of his government, except that the gallant Admiral
Vernon obtained a complete victory over the French fleet,
between this island and Guadaloupe, and followed up his
success by many other naval conquests. General Prescott,
commander of the 69th regiment, and the Antiguan troops,
landed at St. Kitt's, and drove the enemy before them with
great slaughter.
In 1782, St. John's again suffered severely from a destruc-
tive fire, which broke out in one of the most densely-popu-
lated parts of the town. It was this disaster which gave rise to
the establishment of the " Friendly Fire Company/ ' every
member of which pledged himself to keep in good order a
certain number of buckets ; as also to practise themselves
in the use of their engines. Soon after the formation of this
society, the " Phosnix Fire Office," in Lorn bard -street,
London, sent out proposals for insurance — the first which
were ever made in Antigua, and for many years, that office
was the only one which would grant security upon West
Indian property.
In 1784, it was resolved to make some alterations in the
oaths required of white servants. Prior to this year, they
were obliged to swear to their being Protestants, as jvell as
take the oaths of allegiance ; from which cause many quiet
and useful persons were debarred from receiving the rewards
held out to other white emigrants, on account of their not
being nurtured in the Protestant religion. It was therefore
enacted that no other oaths should be required but those of
allegiance to the reigning monarch and his successors. A
118 REGULATIONS FOR THE PREVENTION OF FIRE.
nightly watch was also established in the town of St. John's,
and a tax levied upon the inhabitants to defray the expenses
of it. It was in this year, also, that it was contemplated to
allow slaves a trial by jury ; but it does not appear to have
been carried into effect until 1798. The former method of
trying these sable defaulters was to bring them before a justice
of the peace, and if his worship considered the offence
worthy of the highest punishment, he called to his aid a
fellow-justice, and between them they condemned the culprit
to death, causing such sentence to be immediately executed.
Regulations were again very judiciously made for the
better erection of kitchens, blacksmiths' shops, bakeries, &c,
in order to prevent, as far as possible, the repetition of those
fatal fires which had so lately devastated great part of the
capital. Such buildings erected within the precincts of St*
John's were, in future, to be constructed of stone or brick,
and the roofs to be cased with tiles or slates. Like many
other wise purposes, these regulations have long ago fallen
into disuse ; and at the present day, in an old wooden shed,
in the midst of a populous neighbourhood, a blacksmith
drives his trade ; and as you pass the open door, his huge
fire may be seen vomiting forth its tongues of flame, while
showers of bright sparks, struck from the glowing iron, often
find a resting-place amid the surrounding heaps of combus-
tibles. Surely such practices ought to be noticed by " the
powers that be," particularly when we have lately had such
distressing proofs of the havoc made by that destructive
element. In 1784 the churchwardens were empowered to
sell certain portions of public lands, and to purchase other
lots, for the more convenient erection of a parish hospital.
Amendments were also made in the act passed in 1766, for
the prevention of damage to the harbour of St. John's, and
for appointing a harbour-master, who was to be " a person
bred to the sea, and otherwise sufficiently skilled and qualified
to take charge of the port and harbour of St. John's, in-
cluding the cove."
In 1786, a tax was raised upon the inhabitants of St.
PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY. 119
John's, to defray the expenses of cleaning and repairing the
streets of the capital. This must have been very requisite,
if they were really in the state described in the following
passage, (extracted from a letter written from Antigua
August 1, 1786.) '*' The streets are spacious, but unpaved,
nor is there the least care taken to keep them clean. The
prickly pear bush, and other shrubs, are suffered to grow
therein, to the annoyance of the passengers, the secreting of
every species of nastiness, and to the great increase of vermin,
insects, and reptiles, with which this place abounds." Public
billiard and other gaming-tables were prohibited, under pain
of forfeiture ; much to the good order and welfare of the
island.
In 1787, our late beloved and lamented sovereign
William IV. (then Prince William Henry) honoured Antigua
with a visit. During the period of his stay there, he endeared
himself to every heart, by that kind condescension and sym-
pathy of manner which marked his every stage through life.
As no doubt it will be interesting to my readers to have
some account of the* manner in which his highness passed
his time, I will insert the following letter, written by John
Luffman, the author of the map of Antigua, and published,
among other of his epistolary productions, in 1789.
" St. John's, Antigua, Jan. 16, 1787.
" Dear Sir, — Prince William Henry arrived here the
latter end of last month in the Pegasus frigate. His appear-
ance has put this little community into a ferment. Addresses
were immediately presented to him from the legislative body,
and likewise from the merchants, expressive of loyalty to his
royal father, and of the happiness and honour his highness
had conferred on them by his gracious visit. The address of
the legislature was read and presented by a Mr. John Burke,
solicitor-general of the Leeward Islands, and speaker of
the assembly of this island ; but, notwithstanding this
gentleman has been for years hackneyed at the bar, and
is a bold orator ; yet, on this occasion, to the astonish-
120 PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY.
ment of every bystander, he was nearly bereft of the
power of utterance. The merchants' address was read and
presented by a Mr. John Scotland. His highness received
these effusions of loyalty to his illustrious parent, aud of
respect to himself, with great satisfaction, and returned
gracious answers. Each of these bodies gave a public
dinner and ball for his highness's entertainment. The
prince opened both balls with Miss A ( Athill), a beau-
tiful young lady of respectable family ; and his affability,
politeness, and condescension, to every person who had the
honour of his conversation, was as conspicuous as it was
pleasing. The ladies put their best smiles upon their faces,
and their best adornments upon their persons ; indeed, every
individual seemed emulous of shewing respect to the royal
visitor. Many offers of particular attention and civility have
been made to his highness, which he in general declined,
wishing rather to appear in the humble character of a private
gentleman, than in the dignified situation of a prince. How
long he means to honour this isle with his presence, I cannot
with certainty learn, — it will probably be several months ;
the people here, I believe, hope and wish it may be for years.
The negroes look at the Grande Bocrah (so they call the
prince) with astonishment, and sometimes incommode him
as he walks the streets ; but his highness possesses all that
admired frankness and noble liberality so characteristic in a
British seaman, and will frequently condescend to talk with
them. Capt. Nelson, of the " Boreas," Capt. Holloway, of
the " Solebar," and the other principal naval officers on this
station, are his highness's chief attendants on all occasions.
" I remain, &c. &c."
In 1788, two Jews were tried at the court of grand
sessions, for a robbery committed upon one of their tribe.
" Marcus" (the name of the one most culpable) was con-
demned to suffer death by hanging, but was afterwards par-
doned ; while " Vanban" (the name of the other culprit) was
SIR THOMAS SHIRLEY. 121
sentenced to stand in the pillory for a certain number of
hours. This punishment, however, did not appear to make
due impression upon the guilty Israelite, for a spectator of
the exhibition (in a letter written to a friend) describes him
as standing there with the utmost assurance, " holding, with
one hand, his hat before his face, and with the other, sup-
porting an umbrella to prevent the sun warming his head."
In the latter end of June, 1788, Sir Thomas Shirley
quitted the government, and sailed for England in the
" Roehampton," commanded by Captain Ross. His excel-
lency, it appears, felt aggrieved at some treatment he re-
ceived from the legislature, and accordingly, upon his
departure, he refused the vote of civility from that body,
and proceeded on board the vessel, attended only by his
private secretary. Mr. Nugent assumed the command as
lieutenant-governor, and soon after his arrival, a new road,
leading to Five Islands Division, was made, and great care
taken to drive piles in that part of the town known as the
" Big Market," in order to prevent, if possible, any further
encroachment of sea, which had, within the last few months,
almost destroyed the old highway.
In 1790, Sir Thomas Shirley again resumed the govern-
ment of the Leeward Islands, and soon after his arrival, it
was enacted by the legislature, that it should be lawful for
the vestry of St. John's to levy a tax (not exceeding 21. per
cent, on value of goods sold) upon every transient or non-
resident trader who shall visit the island, which tax was to
be applied to the maintenance of ministers, the poor of the
parish, or any similar purposes. The following year the
fortifications at Dow's Hill were commenced, the appearance
of which, at this day, proves the erector's knowledge of
rampart and bastion. Amendments were also made (1791)
as regarded the keeping of rum-shops, or selling any
spirituous liquors. Prior to this period, no free negro or
mulatto could keep such an establishment, or sell ad y strong
drink or wine under a heavy penalty ; or if eveifthey were
VOL. I. G
122 GOVERNOR WILLIAM WOODLEY.
concerned in such a business with a white person, it was
punishable in both ; but under this government the case was
altered, for upon applying to the court of king's bench,
persons of their caste and colour could obtain a licence by
giving security. An act was passed (containing 227 clauses)
for the better regulating the island courts, and due methods
effected for an improved administration of justice. It had
been formerly the practice in Antigua to burn such felons
as were within the benefit of clergy, in the hand, but this
year the punishment was commuted to public or private
whippings, inflicted once or oftener, but not more than at
three different periods. This was the last decree signed by
his excellency : he appears to have been an able and just
governor, and well calculated for a representative of royalty.
After the departure of his excellency, John Nugent, Esq.,
resumed the command as lieutenant-governor until the fol-
lowing year, when the Honourable William Woodley was re-
appointed.
CHAPTER XI.
Governors : William Woodley — John Stanley — Major-General Charles
Leigh — Archibald Esdail — John S. Thomas — Robert Thomson.
In 1792, William Woodley, Esq., was again appointed com-
mander-in-chief ; and, soon after his arrival, the increase of
the importation of white servants was again taken into con-
sideration.
Antigua had never reckoned a large population of whites ;
indeed, from various causes, they were continually decreas-
ing. This could not be attributed to the want of encourage-
ment given to settlers, but from the situation of the island
itself. Although Antigua is naturally fortified by rocks
and breakers, which defends it from the attacks of large
vessels ; yafc there are so many creeks and harbours (which,
with a small population, it was almost impossible to pro-
REGULATION OF THE MILITIA. 123
tect) that the French and Caribs found it an easy matter to
land in their canoes, and destroy and plunder the country,
and ill-treat the inhabitants. From these circumstances,
emigrants were unwilling to settle here, but preferred going
to some of the other islands, which were less liable to these
incursions. To counteract these evils, and increase the
number of white inhabitants, various plans, as already
shewn, had been adopted by former governors, — fines were
imposed upon proprietors if they did not employ one able-
bodied white man to every thirty slaves, supposing that
would tend to augment the population. But as it was found
that the law was still eluded, by owners paying the penalty
rather than maintain so many white servants, it was agreed,
this year, by the governor, council, and assembly to increase
the fine to 53/. 6s. Sd. for every deficient white servant to
forty slaves annually. Possibly this might have had, in
some degree, the desired effect ; for, in 1800, we find there
were about 3000 white inhabitants to 36,000 negroes, which
had not been the case for the last forty years.
In 1793, the militia was regulated, and formed into " one
squadron of light dragoons, who were to serve on foot and
horseback ; two regiments and one independent company of
foot ; and one battalion of artillery." The dragoons were to
be named by the governor and council ; and although not
to be appointed without their own consent, when once
entered, they were not at liberty to remove to another corps,
unless promoted by the governor to a commission. Only
one person from an estate could serve in the dragoons,
which squadron was to consist of never more than one hun-
dred and eight men — non-commissioned officers and privates
included — or less than sixty. This was the first year any
free negro or coloured person was allowed to serve in the
militia, when they were appointed to the under services of
artillery, and to act as pioneers, and made subject to the
same fines as privates of foot. It appears this was also
the year uniforms were appointed for the militia, which
g2
124 ANNUITY GRANTED TO HON. E. BYAM.
being well arranged, made a good show upon their monthly
field-days. Antigua was visited this year by a malignant
fever, which caused a great many deaths. It was supposed
to have been brought from Grenada in H. M. S. Experiment,
and conveyed ashore in some of the sailors' bedding.
John Stanley, Esq., succeeded Mr. Woodley in the
government, and arrived the latter end of the same year,
(1793,) but he did not reside often in Antigua, giving St.
Kitts the preference. In 1794, Antigua sent a com-
plement of men, and some negro slaves, to assist in the
reduction of Martinique and Guadaloupe ; and upon the
taking of those islands, the governor, council, and assembly,
issued a proclamation, forbidding any free persons of colour,
or negro slaves belonging to those places, from coming to,
or remaining in, this island. During the next year an
annuity was granted to the Honourable Edward Byam, the
president of Antigua, for his many services to the island,
which has been alluded to in a former chapter. A sum of
money was also raised for defraying the expenses of the
war, which had been very heavy for the last three years.
Major-General Charles Leigh was appointed commander-
in-chief in 1795, but did not continue in the government
more than twelve months. During this period, it was agreed
to allow such of the poorer classes of white persons who
might be wounded (while serving in the militia) so severely as
to affect their after-life, 70/. annually ; if killed, their widows
to receive 40/. annually, during their widowhood ; and their
children, 20/. annually, until they attained the age of four-
teen. Additional pay was also provided for the gunner and
matrosses employed in the several forts, and new regulations
for the better ordering of the militia, which in these seasons
of danger was very necessary, for the West Indies were still
in an unsettled state, and their old enemies the French were
always on the look-out for opportunities of increasing their
possessions in these seas. Major-General Leigh becoming
disgusted with the West Indies, he determined to return to
RIGHT HON. LORD LAVINGTON. 125
England, and accordingly embarked on board a vessel bound
for that place, on the 3rd July, 1796, without permission
from his majesty.
At the departure of Major-General Leigh, there happened
to be none of the lieutenant-governors of the Leeward Carib-
bee Islands in the West Indies ; and accordingly, Archibald
Esdail, Esq., a counsellor of St. Christopher's/ claimed the
administration of the government, and acted as such until his
death, which happened about three months after ; but he did
not visit Antigua to take upon him the administration of the
government, as he ought to have done by direction of the
reigning monarch. Upon his decease, the lieutenant-
governors being still absent, John S. Thomas, Esq., another
resident of St. Christopher's, represented himself as first
counsellor, and exercised the office of governor until April,
the following year, (1797.) Nothing of any consequence
occurred during his short administration, and very little can
be said about him in this place, for, like his predecessor, he
never honoured Antigua with his presence. The Kitte-
fonians appeared to have had it all their own way at that
period, for no sooner had Mr. Thomas breathed his last sigh,
than another member of that community, Robert Thomson,
Esq., followed the example set before him, represented
himself as the oldest counsellor, and, consequently, entitled
to the vacant government ; in which office he continued until
the arrival of the Right Honourable Lord Lavington, (who
was formerly governor under the title of Sir Ralph Payne,)
in 1801. During the three years Mr. Thomson was governor,
he visited Antigua for about three days, in March, 1800, so
that the Antiguans had not much of their commander-in-chiefs
society ; but the council and assembly appear to have gone
on very well without him, and framed some very good laws.
The first year of Mr. Thomson's government, Antigua
had a visitor in the person of that indefatigable, but unfor-
* Perhaps it may be scarcely necessary to mention that St Chris-
topher's is as frequently called St Kitt's as its real name.
126 MUNGO PARK.
tunate traveller, Mungo Park. Mr. Park had embarked on
board the " Charlestown," an American slaver, commanded
by a Captain Harris, who was bound to Antigua with his
live cargo. Upon nearing the island, the vessel struck upon
a rock and narrowly escaped shipwreck ; it was, however, at
length got off, and brought into St. John's harbour, where
part of the cargo was sold. Mr. Park remained in Antigua
until the arrival of the "Chesterfield" packet, in which he
took passage to England. He speaks of Antigua as the
loveliest of all lovely isles.
Whilst Mr. Thomson was residing at St. Kitts as com-
mander-in-chief, the Antiguans were busy in again raising
funds to defray the expenses of the war, which had been,
and still were, very great. It was also enacted, that if any
free coloured, or white person, killed or wounded a slave
belonging to themselves or any one else, such offenders were
to be considered as murderers, and, consequently, as worthy
of punishment as if their victim possessed the fairest skin.
That the life of a negro was no longer to be considered " in
law" as the " life of a dog," but that he was at length to be
looked upon as human.
Antigua has always been liable to droughts, and, in such
season, serious losses have occurred from the slaves dying for
want of good water ; to remedy this evil, as far as laid in their
power, a tax was imposed upon all sugar plantations and
houses in the island, which did not possess one or more cisterns.
This year (1798) appears to have been the first time that
slaves were really tried by jury, which was then made to con-
sist of six reputable white inhabitants. If upon trial they were
found worthy of death, the justices of the peace were to ac-
quaint the governor, or whoever might at such time be in
command of the island, with the sentence, in thirty-six hours
after it was pronounced, under a penalty of 20/. The pro-
vost-marshal was also obliged to attend such trial, under a
fine of 20/. ; and for his trouble he was to receive 3s. for
summoning each juror, and 33*. for his attendance.
In the middle of this year, a general council and assembly
"MELIORATION ACT." 127
was held at St. Kitts ; and amongst other affairs discussed,
it was determined to pass certain regulations which would
tend to ameliorate the condition of slaves.* All owners of
slaves were to furnish a certain quantity of provisions for
each slave, under a penalty of 10s. per head weekly, which was
to be distributed among the negroes at the discretion of the
master, and old and infirm slaves were to receive their full
allowance. Perhaps it may not be uninteresting to some of
my readers to know what was the weekly allowance the law
allowed for slaves, and consequently, will insert it : — " Nine
pints of corn or beans, or eight pints of peas, or wheat or
rye flour, or Indian corn flour, or nine pints of oatmeal, or
eight pints of Cassava flour or Farine, or eight pounds of
biscuit, or twenty pounds of yams or potatoes, or sixteen
pounds of eddoes or tanias, or thirty pounds of plaintains or
bananas ; and also one pound and a quarter of herrings,
shads, mackarel, or other salted provision, or double the
quantity of fresh fish or other fresh provisions," all of which
were to be of good quality. Owners of slaves were not allowed
to pay them in money, unless there was absolute necessity
for so doing, under a fine of 20/. ; but when circumstances
obliged them to recompense their slaves by cash, each negro
was to receive the sum of 4s.^ weekly, and have two half days
allowed them to come to market for the purpose of laying it
out. The clothes allowed slaves for^a year were, two jackets
of woollen cloth, and two pair of trousers, made of Osnaburghs,
for the men ; and two woollen wrappers, and two Osnaburgh
petticoats, for the women. If preferred by the slave, and agreed
to by the master, a blanket and a cap were given in place of
one suit of these clothes. When employed in agricultural
work, half an hour was allowed for breakfast, and two hours
for dinner, and they were not to be called to work before
* This has been known throughout the West Indies as the famous
" Melioration Act." This appears. to have been the last time the general
council and assembly for the Leeward Islands met.
f A shilling currency is equal to sixpence sterling. It must be borne
in mind, that all these specified sums are Antigua currency.
128 "MARRIAGE RITES " OF SLAVES.
five in the morning, nor after seven in the evening, unless in
crop time, or from evident necessity ! If any owner of slaves
cruelly whipped or imprisoned a slave without sufficient
support, they were liable to imprisonment, or to be fined at
the discretion of the justices before whom the case was tried ;
and if they deemed it necessary for the further protection of
the slave, they could cause such slave to be sold at public
auction. If any owner of slaves used unnecessary severities
towards them, or put upon them iron collars, chains, or
weights, such owner was liable to a fine not exceeding 100/.
When any slave was attacked by illness, medical assistance
was to be procured without loss of time ; and whatever
nourishment the doctor ordered, such as wine, &c, was to
be given, under penalty of 50/. In cases of sudden death
among the slaves, (when they had not been visited by a
medical man forty-eight hours before,) notice was to be sent
to the coroner or justice, when an inquest, of not less than
three persons, was to be held on the body ; should the owner
neglect to do this, another fine of 100/. was imposed. With
regard to the " marriage rites" of slaves, if their union can
be called so, which was only nominal, owners were to en-
courage them to have only one husband or wife ; and if
faithful to each other, the woman was to receive four-dollars
for her first child, (provided it was alive six weeks after its
birth,) and five dollars for each succeeding child under the
same circumstances, and the slave and his wife to receive
one dollar each at the end of the year. Should their master
fail to do this, it was punished by a fine of 50/. ; while the
female who, in this state of conjugal fidelity, had borne six
children, was exempt from any but light work upon her
youngest child having obtained its seventh year.
Religion appears also to have been encouraged among
them ; for no owner or manager of negroes was to restrain
them from attending a place of worship on a Sunday, under
a penalty €>f 5/. ; and if any clergyman refused to baptize a
slave which was supposed to be sufficiently informed, such
clergyman was to forfeit 30*. To insure further their com-
MELANCHOLY CATASTROPHE. 129
forts, it was ordered that no estate was to be without a com-
modious sick-house, furnished with proper conveniences for
the use of the sick, and a sufficient number of attendants,
under direction of a white person, to minister to their wants.
In omitting to do this, the owner of such estate was liable
to a penalty of 100/. for the first offence ; and 20s. for the
latter. They were also obliged to return an annual account
of the births and deaths of their slaves, and how the sick
were treated, under fine of 100/.
When a female slave proved enceinte of her first child, her
master was to provide her a house containing two rooms, and
not compel her to go to the sick-house, under penalty of
20Z. During pregnancy, they were not to be employed in
the general work of the estate, but lighter occupation was to
be found them ; and no punishment was to be inflicted but im-
prisonment. So anxious did they appear for the comfort and
well-being of their slaves, that it was further enacted, that
sufficient clothing and provisions should be provided for
them, even if the estate was in debt ; and the costs for such
articles was to be liquidated before any other claim.
A melancholy catastrophe occurred during this year, at
Antigua. Lord Camelford, then acting as commander of his
majesty's sloop " Favourite," had a private quarrel with
Lieutenant Peterson, of H. M. S. " Perdrix ;" and some very
unpleasant recriminations passed between the parties. Soon
after this, Lord Camelford gave Lieutenant Peterson an order,
which he unfortunately refused to obey, at the same time
making use of some disaffected expressions ; and the conse-
quences were, that Lord Camelford shot him. His lordship
was tried by a court-martial, and honourably acquitted ; but
he must have carried a blighted conscience with him, for —
" Alas ! they had been friends in youth - t
But whispering tongues can poison truth ;
And constancy lives in realms above ;
And life is thorny ; and youth is vain :
And to be wroth with one we love,
Doth work, like madness, in the brain."
g3
130 LORD CAMELFORD.
It was this Lord Camel ford, who, when travelling through
Italy some years after, pointed oat a spot in one of the fair
valleys of Savoy, as the place where he wished to be buried ;
and accordingly, his remains were deposited there, amid
Nature's loveliest works. The end of Lord Camelford was
untimely ; he fell in a duel, by the hands of Captain Best,
a native of Barbados, whose ideas of honour obliged him to
challenge a professed duellist, although he was himself a com-
plete novice in such affairs. Captain Best's first fire, how-
ever, took effect, and Lord Camelford fell, mortally wounded.
The quarrel originated with an unfortunate woman, a second
Millwood in character; and Lord Camelford, who was the
aggressor, confessed to his second, before the duel took place,
that he knew he was in the wrong, but he would not retract
words he had once uttered. It is said that Captain Best, the
successful duellist, was never a happy man afterwards. He
met with heavy domestic afflictions ; but in his last moments
he said to a friend, that all his sorrows would have appeared
trivial, could he have wiped from his recollection all traces
of that unfortunate duel.
In 1798 sheep-stealing was- made a capital crime in
Antigua. It had been considered so in England since
1740 ; and the Antiguans found it necessary to punish such
offence as that statute directed. In 1799, an assize of bread
was constituted, which was intended to prevent bakers from
taking undue advantage of the public. Many other re-
gulations were agreed to, upon this head, such as not
allowing any one to sell bread without licence ; obliging
bakers to put a mark upon their bread, and if changing
such mark without further licence, to forfeit 50/. If such
bread was imperfectly baked, to be fined as if deficient in
weight ; if damaged flour was used, the bread to be destroyed
by a magistrate, and a fine imposed upon the baker of 20/. ;
and if a diseased person was employed in the bakehouse, an-
other 20/. penalty was enjoined.
In 1800, a law was passed to ascertain the number of
LORD LAVINGTON. 131
negro slaves in Antigua ; and the total number of births and
deaths upon an average, for the last three years ; when, upon
taking the census, the number of negroes was found to be
37,000. About this year the legislature thought proper to
increase the salary of the colonial agent to 200/. sterling,
considering that the sum appointed for his recompence in
1698, namely 100/!. sterling, was an insufficient compensation
for the trouble. The agent at this period was the late An-
thony Brown, Esq. Several serious accidents having oc-
curred during the last few years from the custom of throwing
about squibs, or other fireworks, it was determined that
should any one in future, let their sex or quality be what it
might, offend in this respect, such offender should be fined
40s. If any slave made or sold fireworks, they were to
suffer such correction as the magistrate before whom the
complaint was brought should deem proper.
Thus ended Mr. Thomson's public career, after having
held the government for nearly four years. As before re-
marked of Mr. Thomas, very little can be said about him ;
for he made St. Kitts head-quarters, in opposition to the
orders which had been sent out by his majesty, to constitute
Antigua the residence of the commander-in-chief ; and did
not repair to this island to take upon him the administration
of the government.
CHAPTER XII.
Governors : The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington— William
Woodley — James Tyson — John Julias — Hugh Elliot — Sir James
Leith — Henry Rawlins — S. Rawlins — Major-General Ramsay.
In 1801, the Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington was
re-appointed to the office of commander-in-chief, to the gra-
tification of the Antiguans, who, as before remarked, were so
pleased with his government in 1771, when he was Sir Ralph
132 BUTT ON SUGAR.
Payne. Lord Lavington came to Antigua about the latter end
of January ; and soon after his arrival, it was agreed for the
country to allow him an annuity of 1000/. to be paid quarterly
out of the public treasury of the island ; and a further sum of
300/. to be paid in like manner until a government house was
built for his reception. And that his excellency might better
support his dignity, another annuity of 700/. was granted
him, as long as he remained within his government. About
this time the practice of slaves stealing sugar and retailing it
in the markets, or selling it to shopkeepers privately, was so
general, that it was found necessary to lay a duty upon that
article when retailed. If any person sold less than lOOlbs. of
sugar without having a licence for six months, and the further
entering into a bond with one security for the sum of 50/.,
such person was liable to a penalty of 50/. for the first offence.
It was this year that slaves were condemned to work in
the streets, for the first time, as a punishment for offences.
If any slave was committed to jail for refusing to give their
owner's name, they were put to such work until claimed ;
when convicted of a crime less than felony, they were to
be kept to hard labour in the streets for the space of three
months; and if they had been sentenced to death, and
afterwards pardoned by the governor, his excellency could
annex to such pardon an order for the guilty slaves to work
in the streets for any time he thought proper. These
culprits were made to work in a gang, chained two and two
together, and, at the close of the day, when their toil was
over, they were conveyed to the common jail, and closely
confined until the next morning, when their labours were
resumed. When a slave was pardoned on condition of
working in the street-gang for a certain time, their owners
were paid a shilling a-day until the release of their slave.
Doubts having arisen wit regard to the validity of certain
laws passed during the administration of A. Esdail, J. S.
Thomas, and R. Thomson, on account of their not repairing
I
POWDKK-TAX. 133
to Antigua to take upon them the ad minis [.ration of the
government, it was found necessary to obviate all doubts
by framing another law, to confirm them, as also all civil and
military commissions which had been granted during their
government.
The treaty of peace which had been signed between France
and England in 1801 was not of long continuance. During
the latter end of 1802, the French government began to act
in a very menacing manner towards England ; and from the
military and naval preparations which were being carried on
by Bonaparte, it was evident that war was intended. On
the 13th of May, 1803, affairs were brought to a crisis, by
Lord Whitwortb, the ambassador at the French court, quit-
ting Paris, by order of his sovereign ; and immediately after,
the French ambassador left England, and war was declared
between the two powers. Notice to this effect was directly
forwarded to Lord Laving ton, by Lord Hobart, (late gover-
nor of Madras,) who at that period was one of the principal
secretaries of state ; and upon the arrival of the despatches,
Antigua was put into a state of defence. Not wishing to
declare martial law in force through the whole island, yet at
the same time seeing the necessity of part of the militia being
on service, it was thought proper to ordain, that in future it
would be lawful for tbe governor, with the concurrence of
the council and assembly, to call out a portion of it for the
purposaof keeping guard, &e-, and, by proclamation, requiring
the whole body to hold themselves in readiness. It was also
deemed necessary to revive an act, (winch had expired upon
the treaty of peace being signed at Amiens, March 25th,
1802, between England, France, Spain, and Holland,) laying
a powder-tax upon all vessels trading to and from Antigua.
Accordingly, all commanders of ships were obliged to pay
into the hands of the receiver appointed one full pound of
powder per ton, to the size of the vessel; half in cannon,
and the other half in pistol powder.
134 LORD NELSON.
In 1804, Mr. Wilberforce's annual motion for the abolition
of the slave trade, which was supported by Mr. Pitt and Mr.
Fox, was carried by 124 to 46 voices ; and a bill presented,
limiting the period when ships would be allowed to clear out
from any English port for this inhuman traffic, to October 1st
of the same year. This bill passed the third reading in the
house of commons, but was rejected in the house of lords
on account of the lateness of the session. In Antigua the
negro population had decreased 1000 since the last year.
In the early part of the following year, a French squadron,
consisting of six sail of the line, and two frigates, contrived
to elude the vigilance of Lord Nelson's blockading squadron ;
and leaving Roche fort (France), where they had been
hemmed in for the last two years, proceeded to the West
Indies. After having made a descent upon Dominica, and
levied a heavy contribution upon the inhabitants, obliging
the town of Roseau to surrender upon certain terms, the
squadron proceeded for Antigua. Great were the fears of
the inhabitants when this intelligence reached them ; the
court of king's bench and grand sessions were prevented
from sitting their usual days on account of the alarm ; the
militia were called out, and the whole island put into a pos-
ture of defence. The French squadron, however, passed
Antigua, ancManded upon Nevis, and after laying the inhabi-
tants under contribution, proceeded to St. Kitts, and lightened
a little the pockets of the Kityifonians. The alarm had
scarcely subsided, when news of the arrival of the Toulon
fleet, under Admiral Villeneuve, in these seas, was received.
Again Antigua prepared for war ; but the ferment did not
last long ; Lord Nelson quickly followed the enemy ; and upon
his arrival at Barbados on the 4th of June, heard that
Admiral Villeneuve had only reached Martinique. The
name of this gallant officer so intimidated the French
admiral, that he immediately quitted the West Indies, and
was followed by Lord Nelson, who was in hopes of over-
taking him, and chastising the French for their audacity.
CAPTAIN SOUTHEY. 135
The departure of these squadrons gave the Antiguans a
little rest, and enabled them to settle their island business.
As peace was not likely to ensue at present, and knowing
how liable they were to alarms like the foregoing, the
governor, council, and assembly ordained, that in future
whenever the court of king's bench and grand sessions
were prevented from sitting on account of the fear of an
invasion, it would be lawful for any three or more justices,
provided three out of the number should be of the quorum,
to meet at the court-house, and by proclamation, adjourn the
sessions to a period not less than ten, or longer than fourteen
days. An act also passed about this time* containing sixty-
eight clauses, respecting the better regulating the militia in
these times of danger. t
By order of his gracious majesty George III., Lord Lav-
ington invested Sir Samuel Hood with the order of the Bath,
as some reward for his gallant achievements in these seas.
Upon this occasion his excellency Lord Lavington made a
very powerful speech, which has been justly praised, but
which is too long for insertion here. Antigua was visited
(1805) by the very clever author of " The Chronolo-
gical History of the West Indies, ,, Capt. Southey. This
gentleman mentions seeing a female slave, with an iron
rivetted round her ankle, which had two bars, sharp at each
point, crossing each other, and projecting about a foot in
four directions. Her owner informed Capt. Southey it was
to keep her at home, which was impossible to do without it.
This historian alludes to the melioration act, which passed
in 1798, prohibiting such punishments except, (and, as Mr.
Southey justly remarks, the exception neutralizes the pro-
hibition) such as are absolutely necessary.
On the 13th of November, died Mr. John Baxter, -the
head of the methodists in Antigua. Mr. Baxter, who was
by trade a shipwright, had been sent out from Chatham
dock-yard to English Harbour in 1778, and upon his arrival
exerted himself in gathering together the little society of
136 DEATH OF LORD LAVINGTON.
methodists which Mr. Gilbert had established, but which
since his death had been scattered about for want of a pastor.
A further notice of Mr. Baxter and his praiseworthy exer-
tions will be found in another part of the work.
In 1806, the abolition of the slave trade was again brought
before the English parliament, and considerable progress was
made towards its accomplishment. A bill was also passed
prohibiting the exportation of slaves from the British colonies
after the first of January in the succeeding year. On the
22nd of January, 1807, the total abolition of the slave trade
was accomplished, and the bill ordained that no slaves should
be landed in any of the British colonies after the 1st of
March, 1808.
Thus this great work was ended, which had been annually
discussed since 1787 ; and Mr. Wilberforce reaped the re-
ward of his labours. For two hundred and forty-four years
had England allowed this blood-stained traffic, and shut
her ears to the cries of the distressed Africans; but a
more glorious era had dawned — liberty was exerting her
power, and paving the way to the future freedom of that
despised race.
About the middle of the year died the Right Honour-
able Ralph Lord Lavington, Baron of Lavington, one of his
majesty's most honourable privy council, knight companion
of the most honourable order of the Bath, captain -general
and commander-in-chief of his majesty's Leeward Caribbee
Islands. His lordship, it is said, was a very hospitable man,
and very fond of splendour; his Christmas balls and routs were
upon the highest scale of magnificence ; but he was a great
stickler for etiquette, and a firm upholder of difference of
rank and colour. It is asserted, that he would not upon any
occasion, receive a letter or parcel from the fingers of a
black or coloured man, and in order to guard against such
horrible defilement, he had a golden instrument wrought
something like a pair of sugar tongs, with which he was
accustomed to hold the presented article. In his household
LORD LAVINGTON'S TOMB. 137
he was also very particular. He had, of course, an immense
number of attendants, but he would not allow any of the
black servants to wear shoes or stockings, and consequently
his ebon footmen used to stand behind his carriage as it
rolled along, with their naked legs shining like pillars of jet,
from the butter with which, in accordance to his excellency's
orders, they daily rubbed them. Lord Lavington entered
upon his government the latter end of January, 1801, and
resided at Antigua, with the exception of a short. visit to
Monserrat, until the day of his death. He died regretted by
the " magnates of the land :" his tomb may still be seen at
an estate called Carlisle's,* but the garden in which it stands
is overgrown with weeds, and the surrounding walls are fall-
ing to ruins. Were I the possessor of Carlisle's, this should
not be the case. If only in respect to the old and noble family
of the Paynes, Lord Ralph's last resting-place should not be
thus dishonoured ; a few flowers should shed their sweets
around ; a few trees should shade that old grey tomb. There
is a very handsome monument erected to his memory in the
church of St. John's, which will be further mentioned in
the description of that edifice. Lord Lavington's family, on
his father's side, had long been resident in St. Christopher's,
where they were of great eminence and distinction, having
filled some of the highest offices in that island. They
originally came from Lavington, in the county of Wilts,
from whence the title, and are said to have been of great
antiquity, tracing their descent from Ralph de Payne, a
follower of William the Conqueror, who took his name it
is said from Payne in Normandy. His lordship's intimate
connexion with Antigua is derived from his mother, Alice
Carlisle, of a family originally from the neighbourhood
of Bridgewater, in Somersetshire, and whose lineage will
be found in the Appendix, where it is given from the same
source I have derived other genealogical information.
* This estate belonged to his excellency Lord Lavington, and until
within this last few years went by his name.
138 WITCHCRAFT.
After the decease of Lord Lavington, William Woodley,
Esq., again resumed the reins of government ; but he did
not repair to Antigua, being in a delicate state of health.
Sir Alexander Cochrane, with a squadron under his com-
mand, visited the island during this year on his return from
taking the Danish West India colonies of St. Thomas, St.
John, and St. Croix.
In the month of March, 1809, Wm. Woodley, Esq., the then
acting commander-in-chief, departed this life ; and James
Tyson, Esq., represented himself as the first counsellor, and
accordingly took upon himself the administration of the go-
vernment, without repairing first to Antigua, as he ought to
have done.
In 1S09, it was found necessary to award certain punish-
ments to dealers in witchcraft. Obeah,* as it was termed,
raged to a great extent among the negro population in these
islands, and led many of them into the deepest crimes. To
strike a blow at this infatuation, it was ordained, that if any
negro pretended they had communication with any evil
spirit by whose aid they could cause death, &c, such slave
upon conviction was to suffer capital punishment ; and if
any slave prepared a mixture which was intended to cause
death, although the poison did not take effect, such slave
and their accessories were also liable to the same punishment.
In the latter part of 1809, John Julius, Esq., another re-
sident of St. Kitts, elected himself to the office of com-
mander-in-chief, but neither did he repair to Antigua to
take upon him the administration.
About this period, the Antiguans, out of respect to their
late respected governor Lord Lavington, agreed to allow his
widow, Lady Frances Lavington, an annuity of 300/. sterling
during her life, which was to be paid out of the treasury.
The following year, 1810, Hugh Elliot, Esq., was ap-
pointed to the government of Antigua and the rest of the
* For further particulars respecting Obeah, see Chapter XXXII.
"melioration act." 139
Leeward Islands. During his administration, it was again
ordained, that no medical man should practice in this island
without a licence ; and no licence should be granted unless
such persons as applied produced a certificate from the
Surgeons 9 Hall, or from one of the universities in Great
Britain, shewing his admittance in them. One reason for
this regulation was, on account of the numerous cases of
poisoning among the negroes; and it was conjectured that
they procured deleterious drugs from some of the low venders
of medicines, who, like Shakspeare's half-starved apothe-
cary —
" If a man did need a poison
would sell it him."*
This wise regulation appears to have emanated from the
governor, who saw the absurdity, if not guilt, of allowing
the public to place their lives in the hands of the low " self-
educated physicians," of whom, in those days, the medical
body was pretty generally composed.
Nor was this the only salutary step proposed by his ex-
cellency during his administration. Although, as before
mentioned, the general assembly of the Leeward Islands
had, during a meeting at St. Kitts, in 1798, passed the
(< Melioration Act," with the hopes of restricting the owners
of slaves from excessive cruelty in their dealings with their
negroes. No limits had been put to the number of lashes
to be given at one time, and for one offence, and accordingly
some maliciously disposed persons had evaded the law, and
treated their slaves in a most barbarous manner. The
governor had full proof of this soon after his arrival, in the
case of a member of the council, at Nevis, who, setting
aside the laws of humanity, had caused " 300 lashes of cart-
whip, or nearly that number, to be inflicted in the public
market-place (without the sentence of a magistrate) upon a
* In 1676, a similar law had been brought into force, but from some
cause had fallen into disuse. The penalty for practising without a
licence was, at that period, confined to a forfeit of 5000 lbs. of sugar.
140 CRUELTY TO SLAVE8.
considerable proportion of a gang of thirty-two negroes, who
were all, more or less, severely punished, without having
been convicted of any act, which, by the most forced con-
struction, could be deemed mutinous, or dangerous to the
community at large."
In the governor's communications with the Earl of Liver-
pool, in 1810, upon this subject, he alludes to the "Meliora-
tion Act," and deplores that the punishment of whipping was
not restricted to 39 lashes, as in the 14th clause of the
" Consolidated Act," passed in Jamaica, in 1792 ; and further
proposes, that the clause in question should be immediately
annexed to the " Leeward Island Melioration Act."
That such was not done upon the passing of the act,
cannot be laid to the charge of the representatives of
Antigua, who fully coincided with Mr. Burke, the attorney-
general of the Leeward Islands, in his proposal that such
measure should be adopted, but which proposition was not
carried into effect by the general council and assembly.
In 1812, this suggestion of his excellency's, limiting the
number of lashes to be given in the chastisement of a slave,
was fully carried into effect. The Antiguans had had
another example brought before them, where a Tortolian
slave-master had murdered several of his negroes, in a most
shocking manner, and cruelly ill-treated others ; and the
Antiguans appear to have been wishful of exterminating
that plague-spot cruelty from their little island ! For this
reason, they forbad owners, jailors, or any other person who
had the superintendence of such inflictions, to give their
slaves more than 39 lashes at one time, and for one offence ;
nor were they to repeat the punishment within 14 days,
under a penalty of 100/. No slave was to receive more
than six lashes at one time, for one offence, unless the owner's
attorney, manager, or overseer, should be present It is
strange, very strange, that so many dreadful deeds should
have been practised in Antigua, and still so many laws been
INTRODUCTION OF A POLICE FORCE. 141
framed for the protection of the slaves, even long before the
period I am now writing about. What answer are we to
give to this enigma ? Alas ! alas ! in many instances, we
must again exclaim with Captain Sou they, " The exceptions
neutralize the prohibitions.' 9
In 1813, his excellency Hugh Elliot left the government,
and John Julius again entered upon the administration, but
he did not reside at or visit Antigua. This was the first
year a police force was established; it consisted of five
reputable white men, who had been recommended to the
commander-in-chief, (or in his absence, the president of
the island,) assisted by about as many discreet black or
coloured persons. One of these white men was to be called
" Clerk of the Police,'' and it was his duty to attend the
sittings of magistrates on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fri-
days, and summon accused parties and witnesses. These
police-officers had several duties to perform — such as taking
up slaves who were found selling any article in the streets,
on the working days, unless they could produce a pass from
their owners ; to forbid them selling fresh butter or milk,
unless in possession of like certificate ; and to turn out of
the town, upon the ringing of the church bell at half-past
nine at night, all country negroes, and oblige such as resided
in the capital to retire to their houses.
In the middle of June, 1814, Sir James Leith arrived in
Antigua, to fulfil the office of captain-general and governor-
in-chief over the Leeward Caribbee Islands, but he did not
remain here much longer than a year, for, having suffered
from indisposition, he obtained leave of jdHence, and
embarked for England, where he shortly jKSrwAls died.
Nothing of much importance occurred during tj& jferiod Sir
James resided in the government. AdmiralCochrane was
still stationed in these seas, and kept so strict a watch upon
the enemy, that they were una*ble to distress this or the
other islands.
142 YELLOW FEVER.
After the departure of Sir James Leith, another resident
of St. Kitts, Henry Rawlins, Esq., acted as commander-in-
chief. During his administration, an act was passed, founded
upon that celebrated one of Lord Ellenborough's against
cutting and maiming, punishing with death those who dis-
charged fire-arms with intent to injure any one, setting fire
to cane pieces or buildings, or perpetrating any other mali-
cious deed.
In the year 1814 was signed the treaty of peace between
France and England, and once more Antigua was freed from
her alarms and watchings. Henry Rawlins dying, Stedmans
Rawlins exercised the government in 1816. Neither of
these gentlemen, however, resided in this island. The yellow
fever again made its appearance, and carried off a great
many persons, particularly among the soldiers.
In 1816, the general government of the Leeward Caribbee
Islands was discontinued, and the Prince Regent, during
the unfortunate indisposition of his father, appointed Major-
General George W. Ramsay, governor-in-chief of Antigua,
Monserrat, and Barbuda, who arrived in Antigua in the
middle of the year. Soon after General Ramsay's arrival,
it was agreed by the council and assembly to allow his ex-
cellency 5000/. currency per annum, which was to be paid
quarterly, from taxes and fines for the deficiency of white
servants, or duties on retailers of rum ; and should these be
insufficient, from other moneys in the public treasury. It was
also enacted, that in the event of the death or absence of
the commander-in-chief, the treasurer should pay to such
person, to .whom the government devolved, the sum of 3000/.
currencJ^jpHHlnum, as long as he remained in command,
the bettelf firflhn to support his dignity.
About this period, it was currently reported in the mother
country, that the West Indian proprietors were in the habit
of holding free black and coloured persons in slavery ; and
that, from the facilities afforded them by a state of peace,
REGISTRY OF SLAVES. 143
they also evaded the slave trade abolition laws, by smug-
gling negroes into these islands. To confute these reports,
the Antiguans thought it best to introduce a registry of
slaves, to be filled up at certain periods, with the name,
sex, colour, and age of every slave, and how they were be-
come possessed of. This registry was to be sworn to before
a justice of the peace, by the proprietor or his representa-
tive ; and if any person omitted making such return of their
slaves, they were liable to a penalty of 200/. for every
slave.
During the temporary absence of his excellency Major-
General Ramsay, T. Norbury Kerby, Esq., the treasurer of
the island, held the government. It was thought proper,
about this period, (1817,) to restrict the existing privilege
of exporting slaves, and make it punishable to sell or send a
slave off the island. If any slaves were thus exported, they
became forfeited to the king, as well as the vessel which was
to convey them away, and any officers of H.M. Customs
could seize such ship and slaves. This did not, however,
prevent any owner from carrying their domestic slaves off
the island with them, or from hiring or employing their
slaves as mariners ; but they were to have their name and
description indorsed on the clearance of the vessel which
carried them away, under penalty of 100/., to both owner of
slave and the master of the vessel.
In concluding this chapter, I must be allowed to remark,
that, let Antigua be what she may, since she has seen her
error, she has never withheld manumission from her slaves ;
and, as we have just noticed, was the first among the West
Indian Islands which endeavoured to spare that class the
further pang of transportation.
144 APPOINTMENT OP A BISHOP.
CHAPTER XIII.
Governors : — Sir Benjamin D'Urban — Sir Patrick Ross — Sir Evan
Murray M'Gregor — Mr. Light — Sir W. G. M'Bean Colebrooke —
Major M'Phail — Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy.
After the death of Major General Ramsay in 1819, his
gracious majesty George III. appointed Sir Benjamin D'Ur-
ban to the vacant government, who arrived at Antigua in
the following year, 1820.
During the administration of Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the
census was taken, when the population was found to consist
of 37,031 souls — viz., 4066 coloured, 1980 whites, and
30,985 negroes.
A very efficient militia was also raised, consisting of 15
staff-officers, 87 commissioned-officers, and 843 noncom-
missioned-officers and privates ; making in all, 945.
The year 1825 is celebrated for the arrival of the first
English bishop in the West Indies. During the preceding
year, George the Fourth appointed, by letters patent, (bear-
ing date 24th July, 1824,) two bishops for the cure of souls
in the British West Indies ; the one to be styled the Bishop
of Jamaica, &c, the other, the Bishop of Barbados and
the Leeward Islands, having in his diocese the islands of
Barbados, St. Vincent's, St. Lucia, Grenada, Dominica,
Antigua, Monserrat, Nevis, St. Christopher's, and the Virgin
Isles — Trinidad and Tobago, with their respective depen-
dances.
Upon the arrival of Bishop Coleridge in the West Indies,
he remained for a short time at Barbados (as head-quarters),
and then proceeded upon a tour to the respective islands
which constituted his see. Prior to the appointment of a
bishop in these colonies, the clergy officiating there were
considered under the superintendence of the bishop of
London ; and that prelate, as well as the archbishops of
IMMORALITY OF THE CLERGY. 145
Canterbury and York, could ordain " any person who should,
on examination, be deemed qualified for the cure of souls, or
officiating in any spiritual capacity in his majesty's colonies,
or foreign possessions, although such persons might not have
possessed the title required by the canons of the church of
England, of such as are to be made ministers.
Alas ! how many were ordained, and deemed qualified for
the " cure of souls," in the West Indies, who, by precept
and practice, led their unhappy parishioners further into the
power of the enemy of souls f who, whatever they might
preach, lived in open violation of the laws of God and man ;
and who, after indulging in the grossest sensuality through-
out the six days of the week, presumed to enter into the
pulpit on a Sunday, and, pro tempore, descant most learnedly
and profoundly upon the beauties of morality f But enough
of such disgracers of the sacred office — they have passed
away to render an account of their stewardship before a
holy and a righteous bar; nor should I have alluded to
them, did I not wish to impress upon the minds of the An-
tiguans the blessing they enjoy in possessing a more en-
lightened and evangelical race of clergymen.
To return to the bishop: a sum of 4200/. sterling per
annum is placed at his disposal, to be distributed among
the several ministers, catechists, and schoolmasters, as sala-
ries, &c, with the proviso, that no minister shall receive
more than 300/. sterling per annum, from such fund.
By his patent the bishop ordains, confirms, and performs
all those several functions peculiar to his office, as one of
the successors of the apostles. The bishop is made a body
corporate ; has a common seal granted him, and is consi-
dered subordinate to the archbishop of Canterbury. An
ecclesiastical jurisdiction over the clergy is also conferred
upon him, and on the commissaries by him appointed ; but
such jurisdiction does not interfere with the provision of
any local law which has received the royal confirmation.
" In case of the absence of the bishop and his commissaries,
VOL. I. H
146 "DANDY FEVER."
the governor of Barbados is authorized to appoint any two
clergymen to institute benefices, and to license curates."
Sir Benj. D* Urban being recalled^* Sir Patrick Ross
was appointed governor and commander-in-chief. His ex-
cellency arrived at Antigua in the year 1826, and during
his stay there, ingratiated himself with the heads of the
island, by his courteous manners, and his humane desire to
spare their feelings upon the all-engrossing topic of approach-
ing emancipation.
The year 1828 will be remembered by many Antiguans,
as that in which the <' Dandy Fever" prevailed. This most
distressing and painful illness took its name from the strange
gestures into which its excruciating agonies threw the un-
fortunate sufferers, and who, in their awkward attempts at
walking, were likened by some facetious spirit to that non-
descript race of men — the dandies !
The year 1831 was the scene of an insurrection among
the negroes. The cause of this disaffection among the black
population was, the suppression of the Sunday markets, and
the omission, on the part of the authorities of the island,
to provide a day instead of the Sabbath, in which the negroes
might bring the produce of their gardens and poultry yards
into the capital to sell.
The Sunday markets were indeed a nuisance most pro-
perly got rid of, for they engendered all kinds of dissipation
among the lower classes on the Lord's day ; yet is it to be
wondered at that the negroes felt aggrieved in having the
only day they could call their own taken from them, as it
were, and no other portion of the week allotted to them ?
From muttered threats, and sullen looks of discontent, the
negroes proceeded to acts of open violence- Incendiarism
raged to a great extent ; no sooner was one fire extinguished,
than another was discovered in an opposite quarter. Martial
law was in force ; and the officers of the militia had then
ample opportunities of shewing forth their valour, and
winning laurels in the field of Mars.
SIR E. M. M'GREGOR. 147
Great were the marchings and counter-marchings upon
this . occasion ; mysterious the signs and counter-signs !
Then there was such buckling on of spurs, and bracing on
of swords — such displays of epaulets and aiguillettes, as
would have surprised any one not accustomed to West
Indian militia " turn outs." Generals galloped here, and
colonels there ; at one moment a party of gallant dragoons,
armed to the teeth, arid mounted — some on gaunt steeds of
sixteen hands high, and others on diminutive ponies, dashed
along the streets ;. at another, the governor and his brilliant
staff might be seen hurrying forward as fresh intelligence
arrived of other fires, breaking out.
At length something like order was restored. Many of
the negroes were apprehended ; and the supposed ringleader,
after being brought to trial, was condemned and exeeuted.
He met his fate with resignation, but protested to the very
last that he died innocent of the offence (arson) imputed to
him ; the other culprits were punished by public floggings
and imprisonments. Thus was the insurrection of 1831
quelled, and peace once more established. Saturday was
appointed for the principal market day ; and the planters
agreed to allow their people to visit the capital every, or
every other week, to vend their little wares.
In 1832, Sir Evan Murray McGregor was appointed to
the government of the Leeward Islands, including Dominica.
Sir Evan was a member of the McGregor family, so cele-
brated in Scottish history, and of which the redoubted Rob
Roy was a chieftain. His excellency was a man of the
strictest political principles, and of a most enlightened mind.
He saw and felt the degradations laid upon the coloured
people ; and as far as lay in his power he mitigated their
sufferings. It was not until his administration that coloured
persons served as jurors.
His kind feelings towards this portion of his majesty's
subjects were not altogether- agreeable to many of the self-
constituted " exclusives ;" and various were the schemes
h 2 *
148 EARTHQUAKES AT ANTIGUA.
and projects to turn him from his purpose of rewarding
the merits of the coloured class. But Sir Evan possessed
an inflexible spirit, and neither frowns nor caresses could
prevent him from dispensing justice to all, be their colour
what it might.
Acting upon these principles, his excellency, in 1834,
appointed Mr. Loving, a gentleman of colour, chief of
police, with a salary of 600/. per annum. This dreadful
innovation of the governor's met with the strongest resist-
ance from those persons who were led to look upon a
man's merit as inseparably connected with his white descent ;
and no efforts were spared upon their part to endeavour to
persuade Sir Evan to rescind the appointment. This, how-
ever, was not to be effected, and many a breast burned
with secret indignation against the man who had dared to
throw down the partition wall between the immaculate whites,
and a descendant of Afric's despised children !
But it was not colour alone that formed the grand ob-
jection to this gentleman's appointment. Mr. Loving had
been for some time the editor of a paper, and in such
capacity had raised his voice against the system of slavery,
and advocated in a firm, but mild spirit, the cause of eman-
cipation, in a country where nearly all its principal in-
habitants were slave-holders. Upon the strength of the
old adage, " What can't be cured must be endured,"
Mr. Loving was allowed to remain quietly in his situation,
until time brought about mighty changes, and made the
Antiguan slave-holders, like himself, friends to freedom.
The following year, 1833, was noted for the severe shocks
of earthquake felt at Antigua, as well as at most of the
other islands throughout the chain. These earthquakes
were followed by a season of dry weather, which crushed the
hopes of the planters, and rendered in great measure the
fertile little island a barren waste.
1834 is celebrated throughout the British West Indies as
the year of the abolition of slavery, and more particularly
A VIOLENT HURRICANE. 149
by the Antiguans, who, laying aside all claims to apprentice-
ship, gave their negroes immediate freedom. For this con-
summation had many worthy men toiled and sighed — for
this had Sharpe, Clayton, Wilberforce, Buxton, Lushington,
and many others, written and spoken, until wearied naturejL*
had often sunk, almost exhausted — and now the bright day
of liberty had arrived, and the great and glorious triumph,
which for so many years had been as a beacon before the
minds of philanthropic men, had been achieved ; but alas !
of those who would have sung jubilee on the fulfilment of
their wishes, many had yielded up their noble spirits, and
passed to the silent tomb.
The year following emancipation (1835) was the scene of
a violent hurricane, which raging.with extreme fury through-
out the greater part of the night, caused great loss to many
of the inhabitants. Soon after the hurricane, the yellow
fever broke out with great malignancy, and hurried many a
young and gifted one from the family circle.
During the period Sir Evan McGregor administered the
government, he endeavoured to restore the custom of hold-
ing a general council and assembly, to convene at certain
times, at one of the several islands within his jurisdiction ;
and also to make the island of Dominica head-quarters.
His excellency's view and wishes upon this subject were,
however, overruled by the home government ; although it
was permitted him to make Dominica his place of residence
should such be his desire. Soon after his removal to the
latter colony, he received the higher appointment of Gover-
nor of Barbados, to which seat of government he repaired,
leaving Antigua to a kind of interregnum, which was filled
up by the president of the island.
During his excellency's administration, he also recom-
mended the legislature to enact a law to govern elections —
a deficiency in the laws of Antigua complained of by a
large portion of the inhabitants ; the qualifications of voters
being entirely governed by resolutions of the house, as best
ti. tux, 4<*t***f»1,
150 GOVERNOR SIR W. COLEBROOKE.
suited the purposes of its members. In contested elections,
freeholders, it is said, were frequently left to unconstitutional
resolutions of the assembly, who, paying no attention to for-
mer precedents, adopted such measures as would best secure
the interests of their own party/ There are, however, laws
for the protective privileges of freeholders for other distinc-
tive purposes, such as exemptions from arrest, &c.
In 1836) Henry Light, Esq., arrived at Antigua to play
his part upon the stage of colonial life as lieutenant-gover-
nor. His lofty pretensions to liberal principles, and his
condescending greatness to the mixed blood in admitting a
few members of that class to " his table," evinces much in-
sincerity, for in his private despatches to Lord Glenelg, he
reprobates, with but one or two exceptions, that body of per-
sons, in terms as ill-founded as they are illiberal. Nothing
of importance occurred during Mr. Light's sojourn at An-
tigua ; he has subsequently been appointed to the govern-
ment of British Guiana, where he has had an opportunity of
shewing forth his philanthropy, as well as of acquiring fame.
The year 1837 marked the appointment of Sir William
MacBean George Colebrooke to the office of governor-in-
chief of the Leeward Islands. Of the same liberal principles
as Sir Evan McGregor — firm, dignified, and polished — of
courteous demeanour and pleasing address, Sir William was
formed to command respect, and conciliate the affections of
all classes. In his official proceedings, he was ever actuated
by prudence ; and with the welfare of the colonies, over
which he presided, at heart, he pursued his way in that open,
straightforward manner, which, to an honourable mind, is
of such inestimable value.
In the first year of Sir William Colebrooke's administra-
tion, a bank was established in Antigua by royal charter ;
* It must be remarked, that the house passed these resolutions after
a member had been duly returned upon former precedents, so that if the
returned member was obnoxious from his liberal principles, fresh regu-
lations were determined upon in order to dispossess him of his seat.
These are the evils incident upon having no laws to govern elections.
REVOCATION OF THE MILITIA. 151
thus rendering obsolete an act which had been passed in the
earlj part of the reign of George 111., for preventing the
circulation of paper bills of credit in the colonies. Prior to
this period, no governor could assent to such circulation,
under forfeiture of 1000/., the being dismissed his govern-
ment, and declared incapable of holding any other public
office or place of trust.
In the following year, his excellency deemed It proper to
abolish the militia ; a measure which saved the treasury of
the island a considerable sum annually ; and accordingly, on
the 1 Bt of July, 1636, that body ceased to exist, and an end
was put to all martial glory and deeds of arras among the
store-keeper captains and planter colonels of Antigua. It
was not until some time after the revocation of the militia,
that the legislature remembered to call in the arms from the
privates; and accordingly, when such orders were issued,
great defalcation was discovered ; the few, however, col-
lected, were consigned to a far different purpose from what
they were originally intended — being formed into a fence be*
fore the arsenal, where they remain, with their bayonets
pointing to the skies, as mementos of the warlike acts of
the island.
Sir William Colebrooke entertained similar opinions as
Sir Evan McGregor, upon the expediency of there being one
general council and assembly among the islands under his
jurisdiction ; and consequently, strenuous efcertions were
made by him, to carry his plans into effect. The acqui-
escence of the home government to this measure was so relied
upon by his excellency, that before accounts could be re-
ceived from England, despatches were forwarded to the
other Leeward Islands, calling upon the members of their re-
spective legislatures to visit Antigua* in order to hold the
first general council and assembly. The legislators of St.
Christopher's were the first to obey the summons, and some
of that body were actually in the boat about to convey them
on board the vessel in which they had taken passage for An-
tigua, when the packet with the European mails was observed
152 SIR CHARLES AUGUSTUS FITZROY,
in the offing. Anxious to receive their letters before their
departure for another colony, they determined to wait until
the post-master distributed them — a resolution which saved
them a fruitless voyage ; for, from despatches from Sir William
Colebrooke, they learned that the English parliament had
refused to acknowledge any general assembly.
In 1840, Sir W. Colebrooke returned to England; and
Major M<Phail, the lieutenant-governor of Dominica, was
called to administer the government for the time being. His
excellency was also a man of liberal principles — one who was
inflexible in performing his official duties without partiality,
and earnestly desirous of promoting the public good, and
effecting a kind feeling among all classes. As a private
character, his courteous and pleasing demeanour endeared
him to all who held communion with him; -and when he
quitted the government, he carried with him the best regards
and earnest wishes of every member of the Antiguan com-
munity. Nothing of particular moment occurred during his
administration, with the exception of the dreadful fire in
1841, (further noticed in these pages,) and the strictness
with which the police laws (respecting the capture of ani-
mals found strolling in the public streets) has been carried
into force. Great has been " the hue and cry" among the
swinish multitude ; and day after day has the intelligence
arrived that another unfortunate pig has been imprisoned
within the walls of the pound, without any regard to the
feelings of the said quadruped, or its family. Even Sun-
day — that day of rest — was no rest to them, or the
parties whose duty it was to capture them ; and so far was
the disturbance carried, which such exploits caused, that
some good people took the trouble to write and disseminate
papers, calling upon policemen, magistrates, &c, to observe
to keep holy the Sabbath, and not allow pigs to be hunted
before the very doors of the churches and chapels, even
when service was being performed.
Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy, who has succeeded as
MY FIRST VOYAGE TO ANTIGUA. 153
governor-general of the Leeward Islands, is a branch of a
high and noble English family. The accounts which have
preceded him of his many virtues, bids fair for Antigua en-
joying, in the person of her majesty's representative, a good
and liberal governor — one who will dispense justice without
regard to caste or complexional prejudice — rewarding merit
wherever it may be found — measures which, it is said, have
been overlooked by many of his predecessors until within
these last few years.
Sir C. A. Fitzroy is lineally descended, in the female line,
from Brigadier- General Crosby, (who had been appointed to
the command of the Leeward Island government, in 1730,)
as will be seen on a reference to his genealogy, in the Ap-
pendix.
CHAPTER XIV.
My first voyage to Antigua — Visit upon deck — The booby's welcome
— Nearer approach — Harbour of St John's — The Black Pilot —
— North Sandy Island — Wreck of the mail-boat — Dangerous navi-
gation — Long Island — South Sandy Island — Panoramic views from
the vessel's deck — Light winds — Disappointment made pleasing —
Anchorage for the night
Having noticed the most important of its historical events,
I must now be allowed to give some description of the ap-
pearance of Antigua, and of my first visit to its shores.
After a voyage of many weeks, early one morning we were
agreeably saluted with the cry of a land !" Sleep was im-
mediately banished from my eyes, and with a beating heart
I waited until the day should " pour in apace," and allow me
the pleasure of viewing for the first time one of those tropical
islands I had often thought of with delight. A fair wind
filled our sails, and we rapidly gained upon the distant object,
which (when I first peeped up the companion ladder) looked
like one of those shadowy clouds I had so frequently seen
h3
154 the booby's welcome.
resting, as it were, upon the bosom of the ocean, at the
utmost verge of the horizon.
By this time the sun was fast mounting up the sky, and
shone with all its fervour upon the glassy waves below ; and
as we noiselessly glided on, the mountains began to assume
a distincter form, and proved beyond doubt that we were
near the end of our voyage.
A bustle upon the deck, the trampling of many feet, the
rattling of ropes, and the sound of strange voices, and a
stranger dialect, announced the arrival of the pilot ; and un-
able any longer to suppress the longing desire I had to be-
hold Antigua from a more eligible situation than my peep-
hole, I hastily tied on my bonnet, and spite of the increasing
heat, sought my companion upon the deck. Seated upon a
hen-coop, which had been arrayed in all the glories of bright
green paint, I prepared to look about me ; when suddenly I
felt a peculiar sensation, which told me, that, like " Achilles,"
I was anything but invulnerable in my heel. A " booby,"
or gannet, an aquatic bird, which had been captured the
night before, and placed in " durance vile" within the self-
same coop, was bidding me welcome to her native clime, by
unceremoniously inserting her bill into that very susceptible
part ; and as I was not stoic enough to receive such favours
unmoved, she expressed her displeasure by a doleful unhar-
monious scream. a Well," thought I, " this is not the
pleasantest welcome possible," and turning my eyes towards
the land, " nor this the most interesting looking island in the
world." In fact, it looked dull and dreary ; its mountains
appeared barren and sunburnt ; and the distance prevented
me from seeing the valleys and dingles which in some degree
redeem it from insipidity.
Our gallant vessel, however, still kept on her way, and —
<t
Walk'd the waters like a thing of life ;"
and as we approached the land, the scene changed for the
better. Bright green patches of the sugar-cane appeared
THE HARBOUR OF 8T. JOHN'S. 155
amid the brown of the foremost mountains ; while the more
distant of the chain presented that harmonious blending of
a thousand dyes, which poets love to sing, and painters love
to study. As it happened to be that season of the year when
the sugar harvest was in progress, the white sails of the
various mills glittered in the sunbeams, and upon the emi-
nences the manager's house (or in the language of the
country, the "great house") looked down upon its little
hamlet of negro huts, picturesquely embosomed in trees.
On, on we glided ; the merry breeze piping in our ears,
and the snow-white foam curling and writhing around our
prow, until at length we came so near that we could see and
almost count the waves as they dashed upon the silver sands
of the surrounding bays. In one part a number of tall'
cocoa-nut trees stretched their long arms to the blast, whilst
upon every side of us the light skiffs of the fishermen danced
like cockle-shells upon the buoyant waters, and their dusky
masters intently pursued their trade of entrapping the
finny race.
Our good breeze did not desert us ; and rapidly and
surely we made way, until we passed over the bar, and
entered the harbour of St. John's. What a busy scene now
presented itself to my view ; the various ships from England,
Scotland, Ireland,* and America, distinguished by their
several flags ; the boats and droughersf hurrying backwards
and forwards with their loads ; whilst the hallooing of the
sailors, and the screaming of the negro watermen, conspired
to render it the very imagery of discord.
The town of St. John's, with its white houses and green
jalousies, lay stretched before us, surmounted by its neat
and pretty church ; and upon our left the Fort of St.
James and Rat Island. While looking at the latter, up went
* The Scotch and Irish, in addition to the Union Jack, hoist a dis-
tinctive national signal yL
t Droughers are small vessels used for conveying the produce of the
island from the neighbouring bays to the shipping.
156 THE BLACK PILOT.
j
a flag, which, fluttering in the breeze, announced to the good
people of St. John's the arrival of a ship from " home" as
the Antiguans always call England. Several boats now
joined us from the shore, conveying friends to welcome us
to Antigua ; a harbour-master, (a very agreeable and worthy
personage by-the-bye,) to make certain inquiries ; custom-
house officers, (of a superior class of men to those who
board vessels in the Thames, and are so disagreeably dis-
tinguished by their undeviating devotion to that herb, which
Sir Walter Raleigh, in his excessive overflow of human kind-
ness, is said to have introduced into England,) to see that if
you smuggled yourselves on shore, you did not smuggle your
goods ; and plenty of black boys, to grin and chatter, and
get all the biscuit and beef they could.
But I must not omit to give a more particular account of
the black pilot. A very pompous personage he was, and
one who no doubt stood vastly high in his own estimation,
as he lent upon the rail of the vessel, with his large straw
hat, and gigantic snuff-box, giving orders to the sailors, and
in the interim discussing the news of the island. " Hab fine
rain last night; you bring good wedder — (war for you 'tand
staring dere for, you black nigger ?) — yes, feber berry bad
last month, many buckra die — (war you go do, run de ship
on de shore ?) — Crop bery good dis year ; ship load fast
'nough — (why you no haul dat rope good ?) — Yes, gubber-
nor bin bery bad; better now thoV And thus he ran on,
until, the proper place gained, down dropped the ponderous
anchor, a boat received us, and in a short time landed us
" all well" upon one of the wharfs of Antigua, amid blacks
and whites, porters and boatmen, and boys and girls clad
"a la Venus."
The harbour of St. John's is reckoned one of the finest
and most commodious in the West Indies. The entrance is
defended by Goat Hill Fort on the south, and St. James
Fort on the north ; across the mouth of it runs a shoal,
known as the bar, which extends from a bay called Hog
WRECK OP THE "MARIA." 157
John, to Fort James. The depth of water upon this bar
is only from seven to fourteen feet ; and consequently, ships,
when they are partly laden, pass over this shoal, and take in
the remainder of their cargo off Dickenson's Bay. The
principal trade of the island is carried on at this port, the
harbour is generally full of shipping; and during the
hurricane months, many vessels from the neighbouring
islands come here for safety. The approach to it is, how-
ever, intersected with numerous rocks, and about three
miles from its mouth lies a small island, surrounded by reefs
and breakers, to which the name of " Sandy Island" has
been attached. It was upon these reefs that, in 1826, the
" Maria ' mail boat was wrecked, and, with her hapless crew,
went to the bottom. She had been down to St. Thomas
and the other Islands with the mails for England ;* and upon
her return, putting into Monserrat, took on board the Wes-
leyan missionaries, and their wives and children, who had
been to St. Kitts to attend their yearly district meeting, and
who were desirous of returning to Antigua, the scene of
their labours. They had left St. Kitts a few days before, in
a small vessel hired for the purpose ; but finding it rather
" crank," they were unwilling to proceed, and determined to
wait at Monserrat for the arrival of the " Maria."
But who can look into futurity ? who can tell what may
be in store for him ? The crank vessel reached Antigua in
safety ; the mail boat and all on board, with the exception
of one solitary female, perished in the treacherous waters,
almost within sight of their own homes — within hearing of
the church bell. I never pass the spot without shuddering,
and fancying what must have been the feelings of that one
who was spared to tell the dreadful tale. A woman of lively
imagination and affectionate disposition, she saw friend after
friend washed away by the remorseless waves. The pride
* At that period, the mails from the different islands were conveyed
to St. Thomas's, in small vessels employed for that purpose, from whence
they were despatched to England in one of her Majesty's packets.
158 WRECK OF THE " MARIA."
of manhood ! — the shrinking delicacy of woman ! — the help-
lessness of infancy ! — all of no avail I — a splash — a bubble —
and all was over, and their bodies filled the maw of some
rapacious monster, or rested in some coral cave beneath the
waters, there to remain until that great day, when sea and
earth must give up their dead. Of the ill-fated voyagers, all
who remained were, she who was destined to be the sole sur*
vivor, her husband, and the master of the vessel. Worn out by
mental agony, and unavailing exertions to attract the notice
of the many fishing-boats and other vessels which were
constantly passing within their sight, but which either did
not perceive or would not assist them, the master of the
vessel gave himself up to the dominion of the " giant
despair/' and losing his hold of the wreck, was quickly
carried away 'by the waves. One more victim was required —
and that was the dearest, the best beloved—her husband
died in her arms, and after holding him for many a painful
minute, and struggling for mastery with the billows to retain
the much-loved corpse, nature became exhausted, and she
sank into a state of insensibility. In this state she remained
until the crew of some passing vessel raised an alarm upon
their gaining shore. A party of gentlemen went in search
of the supposed wreck, and finding the inanimate female,
quickly conveyed her to the main land, where every care
was lavished upon her, and happily not without success.
No one can read the affecting details of the sufferings of
this unhappy crew (an account of which Mrs. Jones, the
name of the lady, afterwards published) without feeling deep
sorrow at the event. At the same time, no one dares to ask
u why was it so ?" All we can allege is,
" God moves in a mysterious way."
This melancholy catastrophe was known at St. Kitts as
soon as (if not before) it was at Antigua : the dead body of
a child (one of the unfortunate passengers) conveyed the
first direful tidings.
CONTIGUOUS I8LAND8. 159
Sandy Island is by no means the only sentinel which
Nature has placed to guard her favourite land from the
sudden inroads of the enemy, the whole of the north side of
Antigua being surrounded by rocks and breakers, which
make it dangerous navigation. On this account ships
generally come down the south side of the island, although
some masters of vessels, from the impulse of a daring spirit,
or from a want of knowledge, pursue the other course, and
often have to lament the issue.
On the northern and eastern sides of Antigua a great
number of small islands are scattered, and it is from some of
these that the smooth yellowish free-stone, of which the
Court-house is built, is obtained ; this free-stone is proved
to be composed of carbonate of lime and oxyde of iron.
The principal of these islands are, Pole-cat Isle, Goat's
Isle, Guana* Isle, Maiden's Isle, Cochran's Isle, and Long
Island.
In 1700, Long Island, then the property of the
Honourable Edward Byam, was sold by him, and it is
now in the hands of the Honourable Bertie £. Jarvis.
Since the Emancipation Act came into operation, a
great part of it has been let out at an annual rent to the
negroes, who plant it with provisions. It is noted for a
peculiar breed of sheep, its rabbit-warrens, and the number
of sea-side grape trees (Coccolobo uvifera) which grow in
all directions. In former times, there was a mill and sugar
works upon it, (the ruins of which are still to be seen,) and
more than a thousand hogsheads of sugar have been known
to be shipped from thence in one year. This apparent im-
probability has been thus accounted for : large quantities of
sugars used to be smuggled from Martinique and Guada-
loupe, and landed safely and silently upon Long Island,
* Formerly called Guiana Island, from the English settlers who
emigrated thither from Guiana, when that country was surrendered to
the Dutch by the treaty of Breda. The name is now corrupted to Guana.
160 DEXTEROUS EVASION OF THE LAW.
which is particularly favourable for such adventures. These
sugars were afterwards shipped to England as the produce
of the island, by the following evasion of the law. It was
customary at that period, to swear before one of the magis-
trates, as to the quantity of sugar made and intended to be
shipped ; and the certificate was then taken to the collector
of her majesty's customs, who, seeing the signature of the ma-
gistrate, allowed all was correct. The parties who were
possessed of this smuggled sugar, and who were wishful of
transporting it to its destined market, would come before a
justice and assert that the seven or nine hogsheads which
they intended shipping on board such vessel were the real
growth of Long Island ; the customary oaths were therefore
administered, the magistrate signed his name, and the cocket
was presented to the shippers to hand over to the collector.
On the road to the custom-house, however, with ready pen
they added a ty to the seven or nine (or whatever it might
be) in the space which was cunningly left for that purpose,
making it of course seventy or ninety ; and as no questions
were asked by the collector, they were in this manner
enabled, from 100 hogsheads of the actual growth of the
island, to ship from time to time more than the above
number of 1000 hogsheads. This practice of evading the
law (while they soothed their own consciences) gave rise to
these shipments being called the a T. Y. sugar," as will be
remembered by many to this day.
Guiana and Cochran Island also produced sugar at one
time ; and in 1725, it was enacted by the legislature, that if
the proprietors of those islands, as well as Long Island,
suffered any loss from the inroads of the enemy, they should
be reimbursed from the public treasury as well as any other
inhabitant of Antigua.
Following the line of coast from the north, before we once
more make the harbour of St. John's, we meet with, another
'< guard," in the shape of a small island, bearing direct west
from English Harbour, with a reef running three miles into
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 161
the sea, and which is known as South Sandy Island. This
is also very dangerous to unwary mariners, particularly when
the storm king rides the blast, and " warns the devoted
wretch of woe and death."
But, with all its rocks and breakers, beautiful, very beau-
tiful are the scenes which present themselves to your notice,
as, seated upon the deck of some vessel, whose graceful sails
are filled with a fresh and favourable breeze, you skirt along
the sunny shores of lovely little Antigua. It has happened,
in some of my frequent trips around the island, that, although
the breeze has been fair, it was so light as scarcely to lift
the canvas from the mast. But yet, the disappointment of
not gaining land so soon as we expected has been amply
compensated for by the beauties we have had more time to
discover. Overhead is the sweet, clear blue of the sky, here
and there dotted with a cloud so fair, that it might serve to
pillow a sleeping Juno; and beneath, the crystal waters
sparkling like gold in the beams of the blazing sun. In
some parts, the grefin mountains descend to the very shore ;
while in others a calm and silent glen opens upon your sight,
and the zephyr comes laden to you with the scent of its various
flowers. Numerous creeks run far inland, and appear amid
the surrounding verdure like chains of silver ; and here and
there a few negro huts lie nestling among a clump of splendid
trees, with their neat-looking provision-grounds spread before
them. As you pass Grace Bay, the land looks sprinkled over
with gold, from the flowers of the aloe, (aloe vulgaris,) which
grows there in vast profusion ; and the shore is bordered with
sand, on which Amphitrite and her train might love to dance,
and wreathe their flowery locks with the dropping seaweeds.
And thus we while away the day, enjoying an ever-changing
panorama, until the glorious sun reaches the west, and throws
his rich beams on every cloud which " throngs to pavilion
him/* Suddenly he appears to touch the bosom of the flaming
waves ; and then sending forth one long vivid line of glory,
sinks to rest on his golden couch.
162 PLEASING VISIONS.
Now comes " still evening" on, and Hesperus and all " the
starry host" people the heavens* until at length the moon
" Shews her broad visage in the crimson'd east," ~
and robs them of their brightness. And there she paces through
those azure fields, not with the cold, pale aspect she wears in
my own severer clime, but with the glow, the fervour, with
which, in other dap, she was wont, as " fabling poets" sing,
to visit Endymion on the flowery heights of Lattnus. Lovely
is it, at such a time, to lean over the vessel's side, and watch
the limpid waves, as they throw up their sparkling foam.
All turbulent passions die away — a pleasing calm ensues—
and then, casting aside all heathen folly, and allowing the
mind to revel at its will, come thoughts, indistinct, but beau-
tiful, and dreamy imaginings of that happy land, where
" The crystaline stream, bursting forth from the throne,
Flows on, and for ever will flow ;
Its waves, as they roll, are with melody rife,
And its waters are sparkling with beauty%nd life,
In the land which no mortal may know."
But earth's chains are still about us, and the fairest scenes
may prove the most deadly. A kind voice warns me of the
increasing cold of the night-breeze ; and as the last inch
of the cable slides through the hawse-hole, and the tremor
of the vessel, as it is suddenly stopped in its course, shews
we have anchored for the night, I leave the cool air upon
deck for the confinement of the cabin, with a prayer of
thankfulness upon my lips for my frequent safe trips across
the " blue waters," and a hope that to-morrow's dawn will
bring us safely to shore.
SCARCITY OF AGRICULTURAL LABOURERS. 163
CHAPTER XV.
The extent of Antigua — Opinion of some planters — Want of agricultural
labourers — Emigration not always profitable to the negroes—
"Seizor's" letter upon the subject — Return of emigrants — Soil of
Antigua* — Geological matters — Petrifactions — Climate of Antigua —
•' Yellow fever" — Beautiful evenings — the appearance of the heavens
— Evening visitants.
Antigua, as already shewn in another part of this work,
contains about 60,000 acres: of which, probably, four-
fifths are in a state of cultivation. It was the opinion of
many planters, soon after emancipation, that the mountainous
estates must, in great measure, be neglected, as the steadi-
ness of the negroes is not always to be relied upon ; and
from the difficulties of the land, the plough would be almost
useless. These prognostications have not been fulfilled —
at least, no such instance has ever come under my notice ;
on the contrary, in my rides through the country I have
seen many spots of land, which once bore only grass or wild
shrubs, planted with canes, and bearing the title of " a sugar
estate," which, I feel assured, had slavery continued, would
never have been cultivated*
Still agricultural labourers are wanted; many of the
negroes that were thus employed, while in a state of bond-
age, think it a disgrace to follow such patriarchal occupa-
tions now they are free. They therefore quit the country,
take up the business of a mason or a carpenter, or some-
thing of the sort ; and the result is, that not being compe-
tent, they are unable to procure work, and are idling about
the street all day, until some vessel from the southern colo-
nies, looking out for emigrants, holds out the temptation of
high wages, which is ignorantly caught at by the negro ;
164 MA88A SEIZ All's LETTER.
and he leaves his Dative island, his wife and children,
without remorse ; until sickness seizes him, and he is re-
turned upon the country an emaciated being, unable to
work at all.
Emigration is not always profitable to the negro, even if
he retains his health. Many, many of them, would gladly
return, were they not bound for a 'certain number of years
by the captains of the emigration vessels, (who make a com-
plete trade of it by selling their indentures,) or else taken
so far up the country as too often prohibit such resolve. A
clever letter appeared in one of the West Indian newspapers
some time ago, supposed to have been written from a negro
at St. Kitts to his friend of the same dye, who had emi-
grated to Demerara, which I will insert for the amusement
of the reader : —
" Sink Hitts, July
" Deer Pomp Eye,
u You no I tould you how it wood be, but you all
ways were a wild nagur, and wood neber hear reeson, and
lubbed to follow your hedstrong ways. But now you are
suffering for it, an I hope you'll repent, as good Massa Par-
son says. You no you had no right to run away and leabe
you yong pic'nees here to starbe. It was a most wicked
act, but I 'spose the Capen who took you away will be made
to support 'em as he ought. You are all no better dan
Caraline who sent our fren MushePs pic'nee widout him
knowing at all 'bout it, to Jimmy Radder (Demerara), having
sold him me magin to de Capen. What you say 'bout de
Spaniards is all bery true, an likely to happen, an me tink
wid you our Capens are not to be trusted, for you no what
our fren Fletcher did for which he get hang — how he carry
off Nagers from Nevis, and trowed dem in de sea and drowned
dem. Now me no tink dese Capens will trow de Nagurs in
de sea, but me tink it bery like dat dey will hab private
signell wid de Spaniards, who will way lay an take de nagurs
MASSA SEIZAR'S LETTER. 165
away at sea — for de Spaniards will gib de Capens two times
as much for de free Nagurs to make slabes of dem, as de
Capens can get in Jimmy R adder. I hab seen de skul of
Fletcher, for me be sumthing of a free-no-low-gist (phreno-
logist), and I assure you de skul of dese Capens hab gist de
same bumps. And not only dis, Massa Pomp Eye, but dere
is de law of Englan dat a vessel shall carry passengers cord-
ing to he size, dat is, so many Nagurs to so many tun, now
dese Capens do break dis law an dese vessels is lible to be
seezed and comphiz catted. Dis law was made as me told,
to make all de peeple cumfurble dat all may hab room to
walk 'bout an lie down, an sleep, an eat, an go safe, an to
perwent de Capens from sack wry facing dem passengers,
and no noting 'bout dere bizness, for see how dey cram de
Nagurs in like toze in de shu, an only de oder day a vessel
ful of Nagurs sprung a plank off Mods' rat an was sinking
fast an de Capen noed noting at all 'bout it until a noder
ship met him an told him he was going down and dat all he
poor Nagurs wood be drown. Oh ! Pomp Eye, de Nagurs
here be great fool for leabing dis bootiful country for sich
muddy place as Jimmy Radder. Here dey hab plenty of
fish from de sea, an dem dere be sich bootiful riber from de
monting, an sich nice water to drink, — and dere is plenty of
wood to cut, and dere is salt-fish, an pork, an beef, an all so
cheap — an here nagurs be sirvalized, an de men an wimmin
were cloze which dey do not do in Jimmy Radder, an on Sun-
day dey all go church an hab fine tings on. I'm told dat in
Jimmy Radder dey can't boil or roast dere plantins widout
de wurrums (worms) crying and crawling out, an dat dere-
fore dey mash 'em up all togedder in de pot an so eat dem.
Brutes I Is de nagur of Jimmy Radder like our Nagurs ?
Hab dey any beerds ? I heer dey hab scales like de fishes
from lying in de mud an water, an dat dere, shoulder bones
stick out like de fins of one fish. An dis is de reeson our
.wimmin nagurs go to Jimmy Radder, ybr de wimmin always
166 SOIL OF ANTIGUA.
lobede monsters. Don't fret you self Massa Pomp Eye 'bout
de dollars for I neber expect 'em. Me no 'tis all de same
in de end, if you be paid one quarter dollar here for work-
ing, an on half dollar dere, for de tings for eat an drink are
twice as deer dere as dey be here, widout being half so good
eder. No, no — me be content — me no like snakes an wur-
rum an dose tings you hab in Jemmy Radder — me lobe me
fader land, an no like mud. Here we all be Cristan an can
reed and rite, an no be naked savages like aw you. Your
poor yong ones send dere lobe to you — but dey sh ant want
bread to eat, as long as your fren Seizer libes. — So good bi,
an rub you body wid rum to get rid of de hagur, (ague.)
u Your fren,
" Seizar."
So much for " Massa SeizarV letter. I am not aware
who is the actual writer of it ; but the reasoning he puts into
'< SeizarV mouth is sound, and by the form in which it is
presented may not improbably produce more effect than a
graver production.
The soil of Antigua is composed of two distinct sorts ; the
one, a rich black mould on a substratum of clay ; the other, a
stiff reddish clay, mixed with sand, upon a substratum of marl.
The former of these is very productive when not suffering from
those excessive droughts to which this island is particularly
subject ; but the latter is generally overrun with that species
of herbage, known as " Devil Grass," {Cynodon dactylon,)
which it is almost impossible to exterminate. Still, Antigua
is one of the most fertile of the West India islands, and pro-
duces, in proportion, a larger crop than most of her sister
colonies. The land requires, it is true, a quantity of manure,
which is one reason for estates keeping such large herds of
cattle as they do ; but with the assistance of that, and the
blessing of the "o'ercharged clouds/ 1 she seldom disap-
points the hopes of her planters ; while her sugar stands
GEOLOGICAL CURIOSITIES. 167
as high as any in the English markets, and her rum has long
been known for its pre-eminent qualities.
The mountains contain beautiful varieties of fossils, and
other geological curiosities. Among these may be found in
the south-west chain, masses of trap, breccia, wacke, por-
phyry, &c. ; and in the inland parallel chain, splendid spe-
cimens of coralline schist, agate, jasper, chalcedony, amydo-
loid, cornelian, and silicified wood are to be met with, of
which I need only raise my eyes to those collected before me
to say how beautiful they are. These are generally found
embedded in a matrix of a deep green colour, which of itself
is very pretty, and when well arranged in buildings with the
native free-stone, have a very good effect.
In the northern districts are found fragments of limestone,
containing fossil shells, spars, and crystals of quartz. This
chain, running north and south, is supposed to pass under the
sea, forming a reef, and reappearing at Monserrat : it is said
that the fish found upon this reef are particularly poisonous.
" Church Hill," as it is termed, from the fact of the
church being erected upon it, has been found to be com-
posed of schist, enveloped in marl, and is particularly rich in
its fossil shells. Thanks to the new flight of steps which
have been lately erected, and the modifications made around
that sacred building, (which has obliged the workmen to
blast the rock,) I have been enabled to collect some fine
varieties. Among these are conchs, cockles, &c, in which
the striae are perfect, and some of them are beautifully
crystalized.
In almost all parts of the island petrifactions are to be
met with. Among the most beautiful of those I have seen,
may be enumerated red cedar, with agate intermixed ; roots
and branches of cocoa-nut trees ; plantain stalks, with
beautiful lines of agate running through them ; a species of
palm ; a root of the dagger, (aloe vulgaris ;) the black man-
grove, a branch of a tree, supposed to be the ceibar, or silk-
168 SALUBRITY OF THE CLIMATE.
cotton, with cornelian ; besides many other varieties.
Ochres of various colours are also to be dug in some dis-
tricts ; and in most parts of the island are quarries of stone ;
but they are not generally made an article of traffic.
In some parts of the island are salt ponds, which might
be worked to advantage here as well as at St. Kitts and
Turk's Island ; but the Antiguans are not of an enterprising
spirit ; at least, all their attention is bestowed upon the cul-
tivation of the sugar-cane, and if that succeeds, they are
perfectly satisfied. Were it otherwise, there are many pro-
ductions which might prove important and beneficial articles
of commerce. Tobacco grows spontaneously about the
country ; coffee has become naturalized, and grows wild ;
it is said to be inferior in quality to that which grows in the
other islands ; but would not culture do much for it ?
Cotton, ginger, palma Christi, — all are disregarded ; even
the pimento is left to decay in its loveliness, and its fragrant
fruit serves but to feed the feathered tribe ; except when, at
Christmas, its odorous boughs are gathered to flavour the
plum-puddings of the negroes, or decorate the churches and
houses, as the holly does in England.
Although the islands of the West Indies, being all situated
between the Tropics, are, as regards climate, very similar,
yet Antigua is generally reckoned more salubrious than
any of the others. Possibly, the reason of this may be at-
tributed to the dryness of the soil, for we have no rivers, and
very few marshes, as in many of the other islands, to exhale
any degree of humidity. The towns are now also kept very
clean and wholesome, particularly the capital, so that island
seldom suffers from any pestilential diseases. The " Yellow
Fever," that dreaded scourge of the West Indies, has, how-
ever, frequently raged here to great extent, particularly in
former years. In 1793 it was very violent in its effects —
nearly the whole of the inhabitants of St. John's fell ill with
it, and many deaths occurred. It broke out in the shipping
YELLOW FEVER. 169
in the harbour, and was supposed to have been brought
ashore in a blanket, which had been wrapt round a person
who had fallen a victim to it. In 1816 it again appeared,
but not to such extent ; but after the hurricane, in 1835, it
raged with much virulence, — snatched many a young and
beloved one from the family circle — separated parent and
child — severed the holy bands of matrimony, and laid 'its
victims in the cold and silent grave.
It was supposed to be occasioned by the different effluvia
which tainted the air after the gale ; particularly that from
the filth, which had for so many years been accumulating
at the bottom of the harbour, and which, from the violence
of the wind, had been completely stirred up.
The warmest months of the year are June, July, and
August. The sun, when not obscured by the density of
the clouds, shines with a burning lustre ,- and did he not
" kind before him send
The genial breeze, to mitigate his fire,
And breathe refreshment on a fainting world,"
the heat would be insupportable.
The meridian height of the thermometer, during this
season, is, in the shade, about 80°, and the other parts of the
year 70° ; but I have observed the mercury to be, from the
end of June to the end of August, from 86° to 90°, and often
even higher. The sun is vertical at Antigua on the 7th of
May and the 5th of August; and consequently on those
days the inhabitants are ascii at noon.
September, and the two succeeding months, are generally
reckoned the most unhealthy periods of the year. At one
moment, the sun darts its rays with an intensity almost in-
supportable, while the sea-breeze (that friend to sufferers
from « all -conquering heat ") dies away, and a slothful calm
prevails ; at other times, the sun is hidden by black porten-
VOL. I. i
170 BEAUTIFUL EVENINGS.
tous clouds; the air is chilly and unwholesome, and rank
and noxious vapours are abroad.
The longest day consists of about 13 hours; the shortest
about ten. In these latitudes, there is scarcely any aurora,
or twilight, so that it is scarcely light until the sun is up,
and soon after he sets, it becomes dark.
Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the
days, the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No
sooner has the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the
ocean, than the land-breeze arises ; this, blowing as it were
from the centre of the island, towards the sea, appears to
come from all points of the compass at once. Evening is
the time for walking ; and often have I seen beautiful faces,
and bright eyes, gleaming in the moonbeams.
Every author who has written about these " sunburnt
isles," has, I think, mentioned the beauties of a West Indian
night, and well worthy is it to be praised. The sky is of a
deeper and more lovely blue, almost approximating to violet ;
and the atmosphere is so much clearer than in England, that
many stars are visible to the naked eye which there require
the aid of a telescope. The larger planets glitter with a
refulgence unknown to more temperate latitudes —
" With purest ray,
Sweet Venus shines,"
and appears almost like another moon. Mars rolls on in
eternal solitude, shewing his broad red face to our wonder-
ing gaze. Bright-eyed Jove, with his " atmospheric belt,"
almost blinds us with his lustre ; while the galaxy (or milky
way) looks like —
" A circling zone, powder'd with stars ;"
thus they glide on in their beauty —
" Bright wanderers o'er the blue sky free ;"
but oh ! when our own attendant planet, the " Silver Queen
of night/' rises in peerless majesty, shedding a flood of glory
EVENING VISITANTS. 171
over all the surrounding landscape, the scene is inexpressibly
lovely. How often, when enjoying her beams, and gazing
on her " spotted disk," have I thought of those lines of
Mrs. Charlotte Smith —
" And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light
. Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast ;
And oft I tbink, fair planet of the night,
That in thy orb the wretched might find rest."
The stillness and calmness of an English summer's even-
ing have been often and often described by our poets ; here,
however, no quietness is to be met with, but on the con-
trary all is bustle and noise. Sounds of every description
fill the air, as soon as " evening grey" sets in. Parties of
negroes, men, women, and children, gather together in
groups, worthy the illustrative pencil of Cruikshank, to
gabble away their nancy stories, relate their quarrels, or dis-
cuss the other business of the day. Bats of every size and
shape fly backwards and forwards in search of their prey, or
pay you an unceremonious visit through the open jalousies
of your houses. Crickets and frogs raise their shrill pipes,
which grate most unmusically upon the ear ; cock-roaches
(those disgusting pests of the West Indies) crawl over the
floors, or ceilings of the apartments, or at times take the
liberty of brushing in your face, or nestling in your hair;
mosquitoes hum their monotonous song, or insert their pro-
boscis into every accessible part of your flesh ; while the land
crabs clatter about, just like an old woman in pattens. The
houses are lighted up as if for an illumination, the windows
are thrown open to admit the evening air, and the fair in-
habitants amuse themselves by playing upon harpsichords, or
similar musical instruments, " Blue Bells of Scotland,"
" Home, Sweet Home," and other popular melodies.
i 2
172 SCENERY OF ANTIGUA.
CHAPTER XVI.
Scenery of Antigua — Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring" — The
Goddess Mnemosyne — Fig Tree Hill — The "Bower of Bliss" —
"Old Road"— The Strand — The cross sexton — The parochial
school — Old Road Church — Tomb of Col. Williams — Moravian
settlement — Salt ponds — Qopses — "Crab Hill" — Sandy Valley —
The Valley Church — The rising moon — Arrival in town — Night,
and night dreams.
With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be
neither " grand nor magnificent," that *' its mountains are too
much like mole-hills,"* and in many other ways has it been
depreciated ; yet there are some spots of real beauty, which
would strike the eye of even a painter or a poet. To see
some of these to the greatest advantage, I would advise all
such readers as have it in their power to take a drive or a
ride (whichever they prefer) some fine morning to " Fig
Tree Hill," and return by « Crab Hill." They will then
meet with spots of such transcendent loveliness, as will cause
the most unpoetic to exclaim, «' Beautiful ! beautiful !" But
as some of my readers, perhaps, may never have the chance
of taking such a tour, in pity to them, 1 will attempt to
describe what I saw in my pilgrimage to " Tom Moore's
Spring."
It was a lovely morning (as most West India mornings
are) when we started upon our journey. The sun shone
bright and clear; indeed, far too clear for actual comfort,
had we gone as " pilgrims grey," with " scalloped hat," and
a sandled shoon," and resting on our "staves ;" but we pre-
ferred the less romantic, but more pleasant way of taking it
quietly in our carriage. Quickly we passed through the
town of St. John's, leaving its busy inmates, its shops and
* " The highest mountains are not more than 1500 feet above the
level of the sea."
TOM moore's spring. 173
stores, its " Scotch row" and Scotchmen, and all its noise
and bustle, for the quietness and freshness of the country.
Upon gaining " Otto's Hill," at the outskirts of the town, I
looked back upon the beautiful harbour of St. John's, its
blue waves just rippling the surface, its barques and brigs,
schooners and sloops, bowing their heads as if in graceful
homage to some sea-god from old King Neptune's court ;
and its sloping shores displaying a carpet of luxuriant green,
for a little rain which had fallen not long before had clothed
the fields in a garb of lovely verdure. While thinking upon
all these beauties, and the images they called up, my poetic
fancies were crushed by the horrible noise of a long string
of " cattle carts" and their sable drivers, coming into town
with a load of molasses for " Brother Jonathan/' or some
other worthy. This brought me down from the seventh
heaven, and made me just then find out that it was very hot,
and the road disagreeably dusty. However, in our pilgrim-
age through life, we meet with many crosses, and many
dusty spots; and therefore, in our pilgrimage to "Tom.
Moore's Spring," we could but expect the same.
The country certainly looked very pretty upon this event-
ful day, for every spot was green, and as we passed the
numerous estates, an air of gladness seemed to be abroad.
The breeze blew soft from off the mountains we were ap-
proaching, and greeted our olfactory nerves with the odour
of the yellow acacia, which grew along the side of the road
in vast profusion. In a short time, we reached the banks of
a small rivulet, the only real stream Antigua can boast of,
for the few others we passed owed their source more to the
late rains than anything else. This rivulet was bordered by
bamboos, and other species of wild cane, while larger trees,
in many parts, shewed their gnarled roots, and bent their
long boughs to kiss the swift gliding waters. Various
aquatic plants grew along its margin, while in the stream
itself sported my own country's water-lily, bright nymphaea.
Near to the spot stands a rural little temple of worship, with
174 DIFFICULT TRAVELLING.
its plain white walls, and a little cross upon its roof, and
across the rivulet is thrown a rustic bridge. This is a
favourite resort for country washerwomen, and as we passed,
many of them were busily engaged in their very necessary
avocations ; but as none of them presented the appearance
of a nymph or a naiad, I will not introduce them to my
readers.
We had heard of the bad state of the roads before we left
our home, of the hills we had to mount, and the dingles we
had to go down ; of the terrible ravines on one side, and the
bare rocks on the other, and of places where the least swerve
of the carriage would send us over, and then, according to
our informant, " it would be no use to go look for you."
At every turn of the road, then, we looked for some trial,
and " screwed up our courage to the sticking-point," that
we might be enabled to overcome them ; but after travelling
for some time, and meeting with nothing very terrific, we
began to console ourselves, and remark, that the difficulties
appeared to lie in the imagination. At length, we came to
a pretty steep hill, which we surmounted in due time, and
again sped on our way joyfully, thinking that all was very
fair, when lo ! up rose before us, if not a mountain, at least,
a giant hill. Here would be the <c tug of war," so we called a
council. " What is to be done ?" was the first query. " Why,
either go on or go back" was the answer. The old adage of
" out of two evils, choose the least," came into our thoughts.
There was the hill behind, and the hill before, so we agreed
to lay the various " for's" and " against V before us in a
very orthodox manner.
To commence then : if we go on, we must mount this hill,
but when we have accomplished that, we shall have no other
of great consequence ; we were near half way, so we should
have almost as far to go back as to go on ; on the other side,
if we returned, we should still have a hill before us, and not
have the consolation of visiting the celebrated " fig-tree."
Having come to the conclusion of our arguments, the word
SAWCOLT HILL. 175
was given " forward," and forward we attempted to go; but
there were some of our party whose opinions had not been
asked, but who, no doubt, felt as great concern in the de-
cision as any one else ; I mean those very noble animals
ycleped *' horses," and for reasons my readers may easily
conceive they appeared resolved not to proceed. After a
few words of encouragement, however, and a few caresses,
they agreed to lend us their aid, and once more we started.
During the period that all this momentous business was
going on, we had totally neglected the appearance of the wea-
ther, and had not a drop or two of rain fallen, and the sound
of a distant clap of thunder echoed round us, I dare say we
should not have thought upon such a subject. Here, then,
was romance ; a thunder-storm, and " Sawcolt Hill" — it only
wanted an old castle and a horde of banditti to make it a
scene worthy the pen of a " RadclifFe." The lambent light-
ning played for awhile, and the thunder bellowed through
the boundless sky, and then passed slowly away to the west,
very much to my satisfaction. " Sawcolt Hill'* was ascended,
and descended, and the road became more beautiful at every
turn, until at length we stood by the side of the noted fresh-
water spring. And what then were my reflections? I
thought it was lovely in everything but its name — " Tom
Moore's Spring !" Who, in the name of all that's romantic,
could call such a spring by such a name ? Had it been the
" fairy's spring," or the u spring of the mountain sylph/' or
something of the kind, it would have sounded as it ought,
and some charming legend might have been attached. But
who could ever inquire after " Tom Moore ?" Why, the
name of such a being puts all fancies to the flight !
Thus far had my thoughts wandered, when suddenly, an
ideal form passed before me ; her sweet and classic coun-
tenance — her eyes which mocked the heavens in their dye —
her long and silken lashes which drank the dew of her ver-
milion cheeks, all conspired to render me entranced. A
blue mantle floated from her shoulders, and a thousand
176 FIG-TREE HILL.
graces hovered round her steps. As she glided away, she
placed one of her taper fingers upon her ruby lips, and, in a
voice of liquid sweetness, uttered the word, " Remember !"
I knew her for the goddess " Mnemosyne," and I tried to
follow her behest.* My beautiful goddess assisted me, and
brought to my recollection that " Bulbul of a thousand
songs/' that sweet rhymer who charms us with his " bower
of roses by Bendameer's stream/ 1 as with his melodies of the
" Emerald Isle," he who bears the well-known appellation of
" Tom Moore." I remembered all this to my shame, and
determined in future never to utter one word against it, did
all the springs in Antigua bear that name. After making
this resolution, I turned once more to inspect " Tom Moore's
Spring." The water is as clear as crystal, and of a refresh-
ing coolness ; and as it trickles from beneath the roots of a
large bamboo growing by, each drop looks like liquid pearl.
It has never been known to be dry, let the season be what it
will, and consequently must be of inexpressible value to the
adjoining estates. It was formerly built round with a stone
wall, but that has long ago fallen to ruin, and no one has
troubled himself to erect it again. I blame none, however,
upon this score, for, in my opinion, it looks more romantic
as it is ; nature has done much for it, and art would only
spoil her work.
After leaving the spring, another height presented itself,
clothed with luxuriant woods. This was " Fig-tree Hill,"
and no description I have ever heard of it has sufficiently
set forth its beauty. Upon one side of the road is a deep
ravine, whose irregular descent is hidden by trees of every
description, which cover it to the bottom, and again ascend
upon the opposite bank, until they reach the. top of the
neighbouring mountain ; on the other side are sloping hills,
carpeted with the gayest emerald. This beautiful hill takes
its name from several large fig-trees which grow around ;
and from its highest point can be distinctly seen, upon a
clear day, the four islands of Guadaloupe, Monserrat, Nevis,
and St. Kitts.
THE BOWER OF BLISS. 177
After remaining upon the height for some time, and en-
joying the extensive prospect, we prepared to descend ; but
how to describe the loveliness of the path, I know not. We
alighted and walked down, that nothing might escape our
observation. Trees of all species abound, and —
" With confessed magnificence deride
Oar vile attire, and impotence of pride."
The lofty " red cedar,*' the beautiful " white- wood," the
glossy -green " loblolly," the treacherous " manchineel," which
invites your approach by its beautiful fruit, while it infects you
with its poisonous odours ; the enormous " ceibar," (or silk
cotton,) the native *' walnut," (which in every tree presents
such varying shades of green,) and the splendid " tamarind, 9 '
shade each side of the road, and cover the surrounding hills.
In many places, huge masses of fantastic rocks rear their
bare fronts to the heavens ; some taking the form of old castles,
with their frowning battlements and strong ramparts ; and
others looking as if about to fall into the valleys beneath.
Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the
sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and
repose. The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the
umbrageous foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various
creepers entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs
from one to the other of these
" Green-robed senators of mighty woods,"
forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier
flowers ; whilst the " purple wreath" hangs its tasseled
blossoms on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the
whole. A little silver stream (one of those the offspring
of the balmy showers before mentioned) crossed the road
in this part; and after leaping over roots of trees, or
any other slight impediment which fell in its way, and
thereby causing a thousand translucent waterfalls, at length
lost itself in the impending woods. Oh ! it was a lovely
scene, and put me very much in mind of Spenser's " Bower
of Bliss ;" particularly when
id
178 JUMBIE8.
M Was heard a most melodious sound
Of all that could delight a curious ear ;
Such as might not upon terrestrial ground,
Save in this paradise, be heard elsewhere.
Full hard it was for him, who did it hear,
To guess what sort of music this might be ;
For all that pleasing is to living ear
Were there soft mingled in one harmony:
Birds, voices, instruments, winds, waters, all agree."
This was a true delineation ; for although most tropical
birds are devoid of song, the " painted warblers" might here
be said to hop " from spray to spray." The pretty little
humming-bird fluttered among the flowers, extracting from
them, with its long and slender beak, the liquid honey ; and
the doves courted each other with soft, but melancholy coo-
ing, from many a leafy brake. Upon my remarking I never
before heard birds sing in the West Indies, our negro-servant
joined the conversation with — " Oh, missis I if you was to
come here early in the moring, before the sun high, you
would hear the birds singing in such a. manner, that it would
make you feel quite dismal all de day." The first time I
ever heard of the song of a bird producing such an effect.
But to return to my description of this sweetest of all
sweet spots. Did we live in " days of yore," when fairies
were wont to visit our world, and astonish the benighted
swains with their glittering processions, we could fancy this
one of their favourite retreats ; but, alas ! those harmless
goblins have long disappeared, and with them all moonlight
revels. The negroes, however, are determined it shall not
be without some aerial visitants, so have peopled it with a
tribe of jumbies, who, according to their account, are very
different in behaviour and appearance to the pretty little
elves.
After carving our names upon the trunk of a noble tree,
which appears to grow out of a rock, we proceeded on our
journey through the same lovely scenes, which now became
interspersed with palm-trees, until we entered upon a plain,
on one side studded over with ruined Carib houses, and on
OLD ROAD. 179
the other, laid out in luxuriant cane-pieces, belonging to the
Hon. Rowland £. Williams, the descendant of a long line of
noble ancestors, and whose paternal domain extends through-
Iout the lovely scenes I have been endeavouring to describe.
A few minutes' drive brought us to " Old Road," so called
, because it was the first high-road made in Antigua.
This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards archi-
tective arrangement, a perfect nondescript ; for streets there
are none, but here and there a straggling house. There is
the beach, indeed, which may justly be termed " the strand;"
but, unlike that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid
shops — no arcades or bazaars, with their " euter peons" — no
brilliant lines of lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy pas-
sengers. A plentiful supply of bushes and " rock-stones" (as
the Creoles call all descriptions of stones) make up for those
deficiencies ; and the murmur of old Father Ocean is the only
music heard. Of the houses which are to be found, a few
of them are in repair ; but the greater part are falling to ruin,
and have become a receptacle for hordes of green lizards. One
of these buildings struck me as rather peculiar in appearance.
Nothing remained of it, it is true, but the walls of rough
masonry, with huge gable-ends pointing to the skies; but
still it seemed as the work of another race of beings. Upon
making inquiries about it, an inhabitant informed us her
grandmother (who had died several years before, at the
advanced age of 116) remembered it in the same ruinous
state from her earliest years ; but we could learn no further
particulars.
Our principal object for visiting " Old Road," was to see
a tombstone in the church, laid down to the memory of Col.
Rowland Williams ; and consequently, as soon as we arrived,
our first inquiry was for the person who kept the keys of
the church, and who acts in the capacity of sexton. While
waiting for this official, we walked down to the beach. The
' harbour is a very fine one, and forms a complete rotund, ex-
cept in the opening, where the sea stretches out beyond ken.
A line of smooth silver sand borders the sea, diversified with
180 OLD ROAD CHURCH.
clumps of mangrove, manchineel, and sea-side grapes ; while
here and there a cocoa-nut tree rears aloft its proud head, as
if scorning to herd with the lowlier of its kind. For some
time we amused ourselves with picking up various small
shells, matted sea-weed, and corallines, which were scattered
about the beach in profusion ; but the heat, notwithstanding
the fresh sea-breeze, was beginning to be felt oppressive ;
when turning the angle of one of the old buildings, a man
with a bunch of keys in his hand appeared in sight.
Although not always the case, still very generally, the face
is the index to the mind ; and when I first saw that man, I
felt prejudiced against him. He came forward with a slo-
venly gait, and downcast looks, and to our inquiries for the
keys of the church, he returned for answer, " Yes, but I
can't let you in." On asking the reason, the rejoinder was,
" Because the parson told me not to let any one go into the
church." This was by no means cheering news for us ; it
was far from satisfactory after riding fifteen miles, to be
turned away without seeing the very object we came to look
at. Every kind of persuasion was used to induce him to
comply. 1 joined in urging him to " ope* the door, and bid
us enter," but alas ! I found him as insensible to the voice of
woman, as to everything else. " Can we go into the church-
yard ?" was then inquired. " Yes," was the surly answer ;
and following his steps, we soon reached that quiet spot.
Even here he apparently viewed us with suspicion, think-
ing, perhaps, we not only looked capable of sacrilege, but of
carrying away the church also ; for although he still had the
keys in his hand, and the rain began to fall, he not only re-
mained inexorable, but looked as if he should be quite as
well pleased if we quitted the place altogether. ** The rain
was falling fast," and obliged us to retire to the shelter of a
large white-wood tree, which no doubt was coeval with the
first settlers, and beneath its spreading branches we remained
for some time, until one of our party determined to try some
other expedient, to gain the wished-for admittance, and for
that purpose left myself and attendant in our shady retreat.
MISS AUSTIN. 181
After the lapse of about a quarter of an hour, a well-known
voice was heard ; and at an opening in the leafy covert, the
person it proceeded from appeared, accompanied by a female.
This was the parochial school-mistress ; and a kind-hearted
creature she appeared to be. She immediately sent in search
of the cross sexton, and promised to take upon herself the
responsibility of letting our party into the church ; but the
man was not to be found — he had left the town, and carried
the keys with him. With native politeness, Miss Austin (as
the worthy school-mistress was called) invited us to rest in
her house until she could make further inquiries after the
" keys ;" and following our conductress, we shortly arrived
at her residence, where (with a very warrantable kind of
pride) she informed us, her mother was born, and married,
and had reared eight children. Long before we gained the
house, the hum of little voices was heard; and upon ap-
proaching the open door, about forty children, who formed
the school, rose up, and commenced singing, " We make our
obeisance to you, ma'am," to the tune of " L — a — w, Law ;"
while a parrot, suspended from a beam, if she did not sing,
at least screeched in chorus. After looking at these little
negroes for some time, and inspecting the simple decorations
of their school-room, we were ushered up stairs, and intro-
duced to Miss Austin's two sisters.
I cannot help speaking more fully of the polite behaviour
of this trio. I came among them a perfect stranger, my
name even -being unknown, and in all probability never
again to meet in this world; but every little attention pos-
sible was lavished upon me, the choicest produce of their
garden tendered, and without the least parade. I have
/ mixed with society in a far higher grade, where courtly man-
[.' ners prevail, and every art is tried to invest each action with
? a polished grace ; but often, very often, has less native good-
j breeding, fewer sterling qualities of the mind been dis-
* played than I found in the sisters of " Old Road." They
■ are not like the generality of persons in their line of life ;
i hospitality indeed is, I believe, a virtue which most of them
182 THE LIME-TREE.
possess ; but there was no aping of their betters, as is too fre-
quently the case with this class of people ; no flying away,
when we came so suddenly upon them, to put on a brass
chain, or a string of glass beads ; or to take off an untidy
wrapper, to enrobe themselves in a smart gown ; their neat
dresses and snow-white collars, like beauty, needed not " the
foreign aid of ornament."
Many a beautiful tree grew around their humble dwelling,
and many a sweet-scented flower almost entered the open
windows. When we had rested for a short time, we pro-
ceeded to the garden, to see a lime-tree. Knowing as I did
the blighted state of these trees in Antigua, I expected to see
a diminutive shrub; what, then, was my surprise, upon enter-
ing the little paddock, (for it had more the appearance of
that than a garden,) to see a noble tree, covering the space of
about fifty square feet, loaded with its fragrant fruit to the
very ground. Well worthy was it to be looked at! well
worthy to be praised by an abler pen than mine ! — no inde-
finite article could be used to this shrub ; it must be called
the lime tree, and nothing else. While looking, again and
again, at this beautiful tree — pressing its odorous leaves, and
inhaling the scent of its golden fruit, the youngest sister re-
marked, " The archdeacon was here the other day, to cate-
chise the children, and upon seeing this tree, said it looked as if
the blessing of God was upon it. 1 ' And in truth it does appear
so, for it flourishes on in its beauty in the midst of a burning
sand, whilst most of its species are blighted and seared.
After leaving the lime-tree, we returned to the house and
heard the children read a chapter in the Bible, and repeat
the gospel, which they did very correctly, although some of
them had not numbered their fifth year, thus proving the
pains their tutoress takes with them ; and then, putting up
with our disappointment, left for home. As we were passing
the church, Mr. Sexton appeared to have altered his mind in
some degree, for (but with a very indifferent grace, it must be
owned) he condescended to open the church door, and allow
us entrance. The church, which is composed of hewn stone,
TOMB OF COL. WILLIAMS. 183
is built in the form of a cross, and is noted for being the first
place of public worship erected in Antigua. There is
nothing very remarkable in the interior ; the walls are plain
white, and the floor paved with brick ; but it is a quiet little
church, where the good people of that neighbourhood may
worship their God in peace. Over the altar is an old painting
of Moses and Aaron in their robes ; and under the com-
munion table reposes the ashes of him who may be called
the founder of the church ; for he gave the land, and liberally
contributed towards its erection. This was Col. Rowland
Williams, who, as before-mentioned, was celebrated for his
various good qualities, as well as humanity, in a period when
the West Indies were generally enveloped in moral darkness.
The epitaph upon his tomb-stone is inscribed in Latin ; but
as many of my readers no doubt prefer the English trans-
lation, I will insert it, which I am enabled to do through the
kindness of the Rev. H. G. Hall.
Here safely lie in Mother Earth
The mortal remains of Rowland Williams.
We are but dust and ashes !
He was the first male infant of European extraction
Lawfully born in this island.
When he attained to manhood, he conducted himself
As a man,
Being equally in military, as in civil life, an honour
As well to himself, as to his connexions.
In the field, he was a bold commander ;
In the senate, he was a wise councillor :
What avails strength without wisdom?
He was a loyal subject of his king, a protector of
His country,
A true father to his children, hospitable to his guests,
A Mend to his friends. In a word,
He was all things to all men.
Throughout his whole life he displayed,
With health of body, soundness of mind.
Possessing the strictest honesty and much wealth.
He fell a tardy victim to death,
Having survived about eighty years.
He was buried the twentieth day of 1713.
Since it is certain that we must die,
We should without delay take warning against it.
184 JOURNEY TO CRAB HILL.
Near the altar is an elegant and chastely ornamented white
marble tablet, erected to the memory of Mrs. Williams,
daughter of Sir Patrick Ross, K. C. B., and wife of the
Hon. Rowland E. Williams, the great-great-grandson of the
above Col. Williams. This exemplary lady died at the
early age of 32 ; respected by all classes, and deeply re-
gretted by those who were honoured with her friendship.
The following lines are engraved on the tablet : —
" Death, ere thou canst claim another,
Fair, and good, and wise as she,
Time shall hurl his dart at thee"*
After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more
glance round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage,
and proceeded on our journey to « Crab Hill." Before
relating the rest of our adventures, I must remark, that
the line of conduct pursued by the sexton of " Old Road" is
not common in Antigua, such officials being generally very
obliging.
Near to " Old Road" is a pond, which is formed by the
hand of nature into a complete bason. It is surrounded
with some fine and noble trees, which form a screen, and is
embellished with a variety of odoriferous flowers, which
* The above lines are taken from an epitaph written upon the Dowager
Countess of Pembroke, sister to the celebrated Sir Philip Sidney one of
the favourite courtiers of Queen Elizabeth, and author of a romance
entitled " Arcadia," which he dedicated to his sister the Countess. On
this account it is frequently called " the Countess of Pembroke's Arcadia."
This lady was noted for her great learning, in an age when classical
knowledge was the common accomplishments of the court ladies. Her
principal work was a translation of " Antonius," a French tragedy.
" Underneath this marble hearse,
Lies the subject of all verse.
Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother.
Death, ere thou hast kill'd another,
Fair, and learn 'd, and good as she,
Time shall throw a dart at thee."
devil's punch bowl. 185
bloom and die unknown and uncared for, illustrating those
beautiful lines of Gray's —
" Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air."
Near to this spot is a natural excavation, called the " Devil's
Punch Bowl," which, although I had often heard it spoken
of as something very grand, did not cause me much pleasure
or astonishment, being, in fact, nothing more than a deep
hole, with a little turbid water at the bottom.
About a stone's throw from u Old Road," on the top of
the hill, stands a Moravian settlement, with its neat white
house and chapel ; there is always an air of comfort around
these settlements, which speaks to an English heart; and
the Moravians themselves are a quiet, well-meaning people,
diligent in the discharge of their ministerial duties, and
earnestly desiring their people's welfare. May they meet
their reward !
After passing the fort of " Old Road," the next place
which attracted our notice was the salt ponds, with their
fringe of mangrove trees and little islands. Innumerable
soldier crabs were hurrying to and fro, — some looking out
for a new coat of mail, in the form of a new shell, and others
hunting for their prey, which is very frequently the weak
and small of their own class. The sea now burst upon our
sight, and added to the beauty of the scene ; its surface was
as smooth and clear as a mirror, except where the breakers
played over a long reef, which runs far out from shore, and
threw up their lovely but dangerous spray in measured
showers, — no wonder the ancients fabled their goddess of
beauty to have sprung from this sparkling object.
After passing the rectory of St. Mary's, our road lay
through copses, whose overhanging boughs formed a beau-
tiful and verdant arch. The sunbeams, penetrating through
them, danced in sportive glee upon the chequered ground,
while between the boles we caught picturesque glimpses of
186 CRAB HILL.
the ocean. I could not help noticing one peculiarity in
passing through these woods, that almost every tree is deco-
rated with that species of parasite called wild pines;* the
great varieties of cactus was also remarkable.
After journeying along the road for about a mile, we
came in view of " Crab Hill," noted for the dangers it pre-
sents to travellers, should their horses prove restive, or night
overtake them. Here again we alighted, determined that
nothing should escape our gaze. The road rises about
180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt precipice clothed with
the dwarf acacia and " milk-bush" — those ever- to-be-found
productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones, loosely piled,
borders the edge of the road, which would prove but a sorry
guard against any accident. In the steepest part of the hill,
we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful but
treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the preci-
pice. Here and there a blasted parasite clung to it, and
feebly strove to hide its ugliness ; and one or two sea-birds
sat watching for their prey, and pluming their rumpled
feathers. At the sound of our voices they started, and after
turning upon us their bright quick eyes for a moment, as if
to ask why we obtruded upon their solitude, flapped their
wings and soared screaming away through the vaulted
ether.
We enjoyed the scene for some time longer, and then re-
membering we were still many miles from the capital, and the
sun had almost completed his daily journey, we resumed our
seats and set our faces towards home. A ride of a few more
* There is one great peculiarity in this plant which deserves notice.
The leaves are cellular, and so formed as to make sure reservoirs for the
drops of rain, which fall into them from the top. through small openings.
The seeds are furnished with a downy substance, by which means
they float through the air, and take root upon any part of a tree or
shrub upon which they chance to fall. The leaves always grow erect,
by which means they safely hold the rain water. Dampier mentions
piercing these plants with his knife, and catching the water in bis
hat when suffering from thirst.
SANDY VALLEY. 1B7
minutes brought us to a place called " Sandy Valley," which
proved not to be, like some places, a misnomer, for there is
sand enough for any one's taste, and fine glittering sand it
is too. The sea bounds one side of the valley, and a stag-
nant marsh the other.
Leaving this, we passed by the valley church and school,
cultivated cane-pieces and neat-looking " great houses," negro
huts and provision grounds, and an open country, for we
were rapidly leaving the mountains behind us. On our
right, we passed a methodist settlement, and another be-
longing to the Moravians, and hard by a fresh-water spring ;
but 1 began to feel very tired, and consequently did not find
out beauties which otherwise might have attracted my
attention. A pretty sloping hill lay before us, and as we
passed, the " full-orb' d moon" rose above it, and
" O'er the night her silver mantle threw."
A sudden turn in the road placed her lovely face behind
us, and languidly reclining in a snug corner, I mused in
silence upon the beautiful scenes I had passed through in
our pilgrimage, until roused by a bustle in the road, just
at the entrance of the capital, where men and boys, long
poles and ropes, and that very respectable quadruped, Sig-
nified by Antiguans with cognomination of " a cattle/'
formed the figurantes. The poor creature had been landed
from an American vessel that morning, at a neighbouring
bay, and exhausted, I suppose, with the discomfits of its
voyage, had fallen down on its way to the butcher's. I don't
think its sufferings were of long continuance, for the next
morning I heard the black bellman announcing to the
public, that <' A fine fat 'merican ox was slaughtered at the
shambles of * Seizar' James/'*
* It may be proper to note, that such events are not of everyday
occurrence in Antigua. Not more than two " cattle" are slaughtered in
the capital in a week, and when such deed is committed the bellman
announces it to the public
188 THE SEASONS AT ANTIGUA.
But to conclude our adventures; we rapidly passed
through the grass-market and the town, heard the jingle of
many a piano and the squeak of many a flute, (I mean no
disparagement to the performers,) almost ran over a pig or
two, who, spite of a late prohibition, were walking out to
enjoy the cool of the evening ; and at length safely alighted
at our residence in " Spring Gardens."
In the course of an hour or two, I willingly resigned
myself to the dominion of sleep, and dreamt of mountains
and thunder-storms, springs and fairies, precipices and
lime-trees.
CHAPTER XVII.
The seasons at Antigua — Heavy rains — Long droughts — The water-
merchant — A fortunate shower — Drought in 1837 — Desolate appear-
ance of the country — Famishing cattle — Definition of "fine rains" —
Anecdote — Heavy shower — Joy — Earthquakes — 1835 — Meteors-
Dressing for the ball — The alarm — The ball-room — Hurricanes —
Devastations.
The seasons at Antigua may be divided into the wet and
dry. The wet season generally commences in July, and
continues, with intermissions, until October ; and in February
we look for it again. The rains in England are but summer
dews, comparatively speaking, to the to#ents which the
overcharged clouds pour down upon these " Isles of the
West." No one but an actual observer can form any
idea of the violence of these storms. In a moment the streets
are inundated, and the falling of the large drops upon
the shingled roofs of the houses is quite deafening.
But at the same time these rains constitute the Antiguan's
greatest blessing, for not only do they revive the parched
and thirsty earth, cool the atmosphere, promote the growth
of the sugar cane, and dress nature in her loveliest garb ;
but from having (as before mentioned) only two or three
LONG DROUGHTS. 189
fresh-water springs in the island, and those far inland, their
chief supplies of that necessary fluid are derived from these
showers. Large cisterns are dug and carefully lined with
some kind of plaster, either terrace, brought from Mon-
serrat or St. Christopher's, or Roman cement, to contain it ;
and as rain water has the property of purifying itself, it is
generally translucent and wholesome.
Antigua has, however, at various times, suffered long and
dreadfully from drought. In 1779, the long want of rain
was painfully felt; and in 1789 it occurred again, but with
redoubled severity. Famine, it was supposed, would be the
result. As many as five thousand head of horned cattle
are said to have died ; and men and women fell down in the
streets from exhaustion. I have felt what it is to suffer
from this cause in a small degree ; the water we have been
obliged to drink when the cisterns were dried up was nau-
seous in the extreme — only stern necessity would have in-
duced persons to partake of it.
Sometimes, when nearly all the ponds in the island are dry,
(as was the case in 1833,) it becomes necessary to despatch
vessels to the nearest islands for a supply of water. This
season of general distress proves, at times, a rich harvest to
those adventurers who possess, or can hire, a small vessel,
and load it with water, for which they charge very high.
A circumstance occurred in the above-mentioned year, in
relation to this practice, which it may be worth while to
relate. During a long succession of dry weather, and when
there was but very little water to be found in Antigua, one
of these water-merchants, if I may be allowed to use that
expression, went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours 1
sail from Antigua) for a cargo of this useful beverage.
Upon his return he asked an extravagant price for it ; the
poor people murmured ; but what was to be done ? Water
must be had ; and in the end the hard-earned wages of
many a one found their way into the pockets of this
" Aquarius."
190 A FORTUNATE SHOWER.
Finding his profits so great this time, and the dry weather
continuing, he determined to make another trip, and if
possible, add a little more of the " Honey of Hybla" to his
stock. He arrived at Antigua with his elementary cargo in
the evening, and immediately commenced his traffic. But
in this instance he outwitted himself; for raising his de-
mands as the necessity of water appeared the greater, the
people were unable to comply, and determined to wait
until morning, in hopes of procuring some at a cheaper
rate.
In the meantime the clouds began to darken, and appeared
to rest upon the top of the mountains. The wind whistled
mournfully among the trees — the air became chill — the mer-
cury fell, and in a few moments the windows of heaven were
opened, and the long- looked and wished-for rain descended,
not in measured drops, "soft and slow," but in torrents.
Now was the season of exultation ; every vessel capable of
containing fluids was put in requisition, and the mortified
water-merchant was obliged to get rid of his cargo the best
way he could. Near to our residence is a kennel, which in
dry weather is totally devoid of moisture, but during these
heavy rains it becomes a small rivulet. To this stream then
rushed a motley group ; men, women, and children, dogs
and poultry — all participating in the general joy ; even the
swinish multitude grunted forth their approbation, and ran
to lave their snouts in its cool waters.
It was laughable to see the little black children as they
scampered about, shaking their hands, and screaming with
delight as they enjoyed their natural " shower bath," which
proved a more effective one than even Mrs. O'Flinn's.
Talking of "shower baths" brings to my recollection an
anecdote related of a late merchant of St. John's.
Mr. B , the merchant in question, had been for some
time suffering from indisposition, and his medical attendant
advised him to try the renovating influence of a shower-bath.
Accordingly, such a machine was duly procured, and the
ANECDOTE. 191
next morning put into requisition. In the course of the
day the physician called to ascertain the state of his patient
after his ablution, and with winning voice, inquired how he
liked his " shower-bath/' " Oh, doctor !'* replied the sick
man, with rueful look and lengthened visage, " I verily
thought I should have fainted, the shock was so great."
" Indeed," said Dr. M , in his usual bland manner, «' I
am sorry it had such an effect ; why did you not follow the
Irishman's plan, and take your umbrella ?" The next fore-
noon brought with it the customary medical visitor, who
again inquired into the merits of the bath. " Why," quoth
the invalid, " I cannot say the shock was so great, but I do
not think 1 shall derive any benefit from it ; in fact, only my
feet received a wetting this time, for I followed your advice
and carried my umbrella f"
But to return to the subject of droughts. Severe as
the drought was in 1833, it was nothing compared to
what we suffered in 1837, from the same cause ; and, indeed,
for the greater part of the preceding year. The old people
remarked that they never remembered its being so dry since
1789, (which was particularly distinguished as " the year of
the drought.") What miseries the Antiguans then sufferedr
I am of course from experience unable to say ; but if they
exceeded those endured in that eventful year, 1837, they
must have been terrible indeed.
Almost every pond and cistern in the island was dried up,
scarcely a blade of grass was to be seen ; and when walking
over pasture land, it crackled beneath the feet as if it had
been baked. The poor cattle presented a most deplorable
appearance, wandering about as they did in search of food
and water, and expressing their urgent wants, by faint,
melancholy lowings.
The poorer class of inhabitants, also, felt it very much,
obliged as they were to drink the spring water, which is but
very little better than salt. The little fresh water they were
able to procure occasioned them great labour, for after toil-
192 SIR EVAN MURRAY M'GREGOR.
ing hard all the day, they were obliged to devote the greater
part of the night to fetching it from distant parts of the
islands, carrying it in tubs upon their heads.
It was a pitiful sight to see the country, it presented such
a scene of barrenness. The cane-pieces looked burnt up ;
nothing was to be seen but dry and withered leaves, in place
of their accustomed rich green ; the provision grounds
became mere wastes, and all agricultural employments were
at a stand.
Days and weeks thus rolled on, and still the same blue
cloudless sky — the same burning sun. Or if a cloud did
arise, and skim the vast concave, and the hopes of men
grew strong, it passed away without giving the long-looked-
for blessing. Again, and the scene changed. Huge dense
clouds might be seen, piled one upon an another, and slowly
extending themselves over the sky until they reached the
zenith ; the upper ones looking as if crowned with snow-
flakes, while those nearer the earth were black and heavy like
a " funereal pall," and appeared as if about to discharge their
burdens. " Now we shall have it !" was the cry ; u at last, we
shall have rain I" Delusive hopes ! doomed to be over-
thrown ; these again passed away, and left no boon.
Every day presented appearances more and more alarming,
the little supply of water was rapidly diminishing, and men
and brutes were becoming exhausted by thirst. Days were
set apart by the legislature for public prayers and fasts, and
a sum of money granted for the purpose of hiring vessels to
go to Monserrat for water. This water was sold by the
pail, but from being brought over in molasses 9 casks, it tasted
extremely disagreeable.
The late Sir Evan Murray McGregor, then governor of
Barbados, hearing of the necessities of the Antiguans, (over
whom he had formerly held sway in the character of com-
mander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands,) sent a man-of-war
with a cargo of this precious element from that island ; but
under some pretence or the other, it was refused by the
SUFFERINGS FROM DROUGHT. 193
legislature. The cause of this extraordinary line of conduct
was said to be this. Sir Evan was not generally a favourite
governor with the aristocratic party : he was a man of strict
principles, and one who poised the scales of justice with an
impartial hand between rich and poor, white and coloured.
He would not herd with the great people — go to their houses,
eat their corn-fed mutton and turtle, drink their Chateau
Margeau and Champagne, and then wink at their proceed-
ings, and gloss over their errors, like some of his prede-
cessors. Upon this account he was not liked, and when in
the kindness of his heart he sent the present of water, it was
refused in a very cold manner. Some of the members of the
assembly were against this arrangement, and said, for the
honour of Antigua, that they would rather have lost double
the amount than it should have been returned.
But to return more particularly to the drought. Not only
did the inhabitants suffer from want of water to drink, and
for general use, but the country provisions, such as yams,
potatoes, &c, upon which the negroes principally depend,
unavoidably failed ; and as all importations were raised so
much in price, the lower classes were almost starved.
The planters endured great inconvenience, not only from
the dryness of the soil, which ruined the sugar-canes, but also
from having to pay the same number of labourers their
regular wages, without having anything for them to do, yet
at the same time being obliged to retain them, lest when
the wet season did come, and their assistance was really
required, they might not be procurable.
I heard a circumstance related which occasioned a smile,
even in this time of distress. A certain good lady of St.
John's sent one of her domestics to the sea side for a pail
of salt water. It happened to be ebb-tide,* and upon the
servant returning, she exclaimed to her mistress, the greatest
astonishment being depicted upon her countenance, " Why
* Although in Antigua the tide does not ebb and flow more than from
six to twelve, inches in ordinary instances.
VOL. I. K
194 ANECDOTE.
missis, war you tink ? It dry so till sea himself dry now.
War eber we go do, me no no."
Oh ! how anxiously did we watch the barometer day after
day, in hopes of its indicating rain. The inhabitants of the
different parts of the island meeting one another, the first
question asked was, " What weather have you had ? do you
think we are likely to get any rain ?"
A proprietor of a large estate in a distant part of the
island, but who resided in the capital, met one morning a
labourer of his coming from the country, and of course asked
what news there was, and how they were coming on. " So, so,
massa," returned the negro — " we hab fine rain last night."
" Say you so, my fine fellow?" quoth his master, his heart
enlarged at the prospect of his canes flourishing, " well, here's
a quarter-dollar for you, as a reward for your good news."
In the course of the same day, the manager of the estate
arrived in town, and upon seeing the proprietor, was con-
gratulated by him upon the " fine rains" he had so fortu-
nately experienced in the country. " Fine rains!" said the
manager,, in surprise, " do I hear you aright, or are you
joking ? (although I think you'll find it no joke in the end ;)
we have had no rain at all, and I came into town this morn-
ing to consult with you upon the subject ; for from the ex-
cessive drought, the canes are all burnt up, the cattle dying
in all directions, and the labourers themselves are dropping
down exhausted from want of water."
The proprietor stormed and raved — that fellow Cato told
me you had had fine rains last night ; and I was so pleased
to hear it, that — that — I actually gave the black rascal a
quarter-dollar for his information. " Here, John ! go and call
that fellow back," turning to a domestic, " and tell him to
make haste — do you hear ?" In the course of a short time
Cato returned, rolling up his eyes until only the whites (or
rather yellows) were visible, holding his little flannel cap in
one hand, and in the other, what was once designated as a
pipe, and uttering a mysterious noise, which was intended as
half interrogative, half conciliatory, waited until his master,
HEAVY SHOWER. 195
who was puffing and blowing, and looking " unutterable
things," should speak.
At length the storm burst — the torrent descended. " How
dare you tell me such a story this morning, sirrah? How
dare you, sir? answer me I" " War 'tory, massa," inquired
the self-convicted, but waggish negro, the left foot at the
same time performing countless evolutions, and the flannel
cap twirled round the thumb with increased velocity. " What
story ? you arrant rogue ! why, the story you told me
this morning about having fine rains in the country." " Me
no tell no 'tory, massa," retorted the negro, determined to
stand his master's ire undaunted, and, like many other guilty
ones, striving to have the last word. " Me no tell no 'tory ;
war for me go tell 'tory ? me no 'peak de trute." u You
speak the truth, indeed ! Here's the manager, who tells me
there has been no rain at all, but, on the contrary, that my
stock are all dying from want of water ; and yet you dared
to tell me you had fine rains last night." " Yes, massa, and
so we hob fine rain ; me tell de trute. An more den dat, de
xoXnfine so till — t-i-11 (prolonging the word) me hardly able
to see him, he so fine I" Both owner and manager found it
difficult to maintain their gravity at this definition of fine
rains; while Cato, with a grin of self-congratulation at having
so adroitly got himself out of a bad scrape ; and grasping
more firmly his quarter-dollar, which he imagined to be in
some danger, set off for his own residence.
" Hope deferred, maketh the heart sick ;" and so indeed
it was with us, when day after day passed^nd still no ap-
pearance of rain. But One, who does not " willingly grieve
the children of men," remembered us in our great affliction,
and when we least thought of it, sent us the needful blessing.
I never saw such a fall of rain before ; and many of the
oldest inhabitants said the same thing. In about an hour
from the time it first commenced, the streets were streaming
with water ; indeed, the one in which we reside looked more
like a small river than anything else, for not a vestige of
dry ground appeared.
k2
196 EARTHQUAKES.
Report said two or three children were carried into the
sea by the violence of the stream which rushed through the
streets ; but upon further inquiry, I found, as is generally
the case, report did not speak truth. It originated from an
old woman, seeing some chickens (which had been brought
to market for sail, with their legs tied together) floating
down the stream, when she exclaimed, " Eh ! eh ! look de
fowl pic' nee ;* he sure he go get drowned !" This travelled,
and lost nothing by its peregrinations, until at length it be-
came magnified into the loss of several children.
In a very short time, all the ponds and cisterns in the
island, which for so long a time had been perfectly dry,
were filled to overflowing, and care and distress gave way
to joy and thankfulness.
About June, July, and August, Antigua is liable to be
visited by storms of thunder, and lightning, and earthquakes.
The lightning in this part of the globe is very vivid ; and
the thunder bellows through the air in terrific peals, every
hill and mountain reverberating the sound. Often have I
seen the lightning playing down the spiral branches of the
cocoa-nut trees, presenting a sublime but awful appearance.
But although these storms are so violent, and consequently
so harrowing to the feelings, they are nothing in comparison
to the earthquakes with which we are sometimes visited.
Every nerve is shaken by these terrible convulsions of
nature ; the very brute creation seem to feel their influence.
In April, 1690, Antigua suffered very severely from this
cause. Nearly the whole town of St. John's was destroyed ;
and the sugar-works upon the various plantations in the
country almost all overthrown. In many parts of the island,
the solid earth was rent open ; rocks were hurled from their
places, and the very mountains defaced. The line of hills
which skirts the harbour suffered from the concussion in a
remarkable manner : one of them was rent completely in
twain ; and now, after the lapse of so many years, presents
the appearance of two heights, with a deep dingle running
* " Pic'nee" is the negro term for children.
CONFLAGRATION. 197
between them. Soon after this awful occurrence, two
comets made their appearance.
The first time I felt an earthquake, I took it to be the
approach of a heavy carriage ; but by the increased, rumbling
and tremour of the earth, was quickly undeceived. It was
but a slight shock, however, and I began to think an earth-
quake was not so dreadful as my fancy had depicted it to be.
It was reserved for the year 1833 to prove to me what
an earthquake really was, and make me fully aware of its
terrifying powers ; and although nearly nine years have
rolled by since that period, and consequently the remem-
brance of it has lost some part of its vividness, yet the
occurrences of that night has left so deep an impression upon
my mind, that it will never be wholly obliterated.
Between eight and nine in the evening, a shock of an
earthquake was felt ; but as it did not continue long, no
particular attention was paid to it. We had retired to-bed,
and were in our first sleep, when we were suddenly awakened
by that peculiar hollow noise which is always the forerunner
of one of these convulsions. The noise became louder and
louder ; the earth heaved to and fro ; the house shook from its
very foundation ; and books, glasses, and other light articles
fell from their resting-places. This lasted with undiminished
force : but a few minutes elapsed before another violent
shock was felt. In the midst of this, the church-bell com-
menced ringing, and drums beating an alarm, while the whole
face of the heavens, glowing with a fiery red, soon informed
us that a conflagration augmented the horrors of the night.
There were twenty-one distinct shocks felt between twelve
at night and five in the morning, but the earth continued in
a tremour for twenty-four hours afterwards. Thus it was we
passed through that wearisome night; but when morning
broke in the east, and the bright sun arose, and chased
away the clouds of darkness, how many hearts swelled with
gratitude towards Him who had so mercifully protected us
through its dangers.
The fire broke out at an estate called Otto's, situated in
198 DRE88ING FOR THE BALL.
the suburbs of St. John's. It was supposed by many to
have been occasioned by a meteor striking a wooden build-
ing, which supposition acquires more credence from the
following fact. An elderly female, of the name of Moore,
who had acquired some notoriety from her preaching, both
in England (particularly in Cateaton* street, London) and
the West Indies, was sitting up late, on the night in question,
employed in writing her " Memoirs." She mentions having
seen a particular appearance in the heavens, which she de-
scribed as looking like a bright scarf of fire gradually gliding
down the sky in the direction of the estate, until, upon ap-
parently gaining the earth, it vanished.
The attorney of the above-mentioned estate also witnessed
a similar phenomenon a few weeks afterwards. In this in-
stance, the meteor descended upon the branch of a cocoa-nut
tree, which grew near his house, and set it on fire ; and had
it not been for the courage and activity of a negro who was
present, and who succeeded in felling the tree, great danger
might have resulted from it.
Most of the Leeward Islands suffered from earthquakes
the same night ; but at St. Kitts, (about sixty miles to the
west of Antigua,) they appear to have felt them more severely
than in the other islands. A ball was held that evening at
the Court House, and the company were dressing for the
occasion when the first shock was felt.
Two young ladies, the daughters of a respectable mer-
chant of Bassterre, (the capital of St. Kitts,) met with so
great a fright, that they were obliged to forego paying their
court to the " dancing muse." The duties of the toilet were
scarcely finished, when, as before observed, the earthquake
commenced. In a moment the ceiling of the apartment was
rent, and, as they supposed, a heavy fall of rain penetrated
through the aperture, and extinguished the lights.
The youngest of the ladies, terrified at the concussion,
and not knowing the extent of their danger, threw herself
upon the ground, calling loudly for help. The trembling
domestics quickly came with a lamp, when, horror of horrors !
THE BALL-ROOM. 199
they found the delicate white satin in which their young
mistress was enrobed, completely saturated with blood ! The
other members of the family, alarmed by the screams of the
servants, assembled in the room, and with eagerness inquired
where the wound was. This was not to be discovered ; and,
accordingly, another elucidation of the mystery was sought
for, and no long period elapsed before it was found. Their
father, as before observed, was a merchant, and the attic
over the room the young ladies occupied had been converted
into a temporary wine-store. From the severe shock of the
earthquake, a cask of port wine got staved ; and what had
the appearance of blood, was nothing less than its contents
which so liberally bedewed the ball-dress of the fair sufferer.
But the first shock did not intimidate many, however, and
consequently the ball-room was crowded with visitants.
" Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles," flew around ; in-
numerable lamps illumined the room, but their blaze was
eclipsed by the radiance emitted from the dark brilliant eyes
of the Houris, who, on the "light fantastic toe," glided
through the mazes of a quadrille. All was joy fulness, and
every heart responded to the genial influence of the scene,
when another shock more violent, and of longer continuance,
converted this feeling of pleasure into the opposite one of
woe. Instead of the lively scene described, all was now
tumult and distress. Some of the ladies fainted, others
threw themselves upon their knees, while the greater number
rushed out of the apartment, which now looked hateful to
them, and hastened to the beach.
Shock followed shock in rapid succession, and the poor
" Kittefonians" thought their little island was doomed to de-
struction. Nor was it from the quaking of the earth that all
their terror proceeded ; the sea rose so high, and the waves
rolled in such a tumultuous manner, that an inundation was
feared. In such a situation the inhabitants were almost
paralyzed with fear ; some went on board the different ships
in the harbour, while others remained all night upon the
beach, exposed to the " pitiless pelting" of the storm.
200 HURRICANES.
I chanced to visit St. Kitts a short time after this awful
occurrence. The inhabitants were still trembling from appre-
hension ; and upon the slightest motion of the floor, the
colour fled from the lips of many of the fair sex, and left
them of a pallid white. I was present, upon one occasion,
when a gentleman requested a young lady to favour him
with a song. " Oh, no, sir ! you must excuse me," said she,
lengthening her very pretty face, and throwing an air of
gravity into her countenance ; " we never sing since the
earthquake." If no other good was effected, it had the power
of alienating her mind (for a season at least) from some of the
vanities of the world, if a simple song can be called one.
Another dreadful visitation of elementary strife, to which
Antigua, as well as the other West Indian islands, is liable
in the months of August, September, and October, are the
hurricanes, or tornadoes. When they come, they are armed
with every terror — rain, thunder, lightning, and sometimes
earthquakes, attend their progress. The sea feels their in-
fluence, and, by its swelling and roaring, expresses it —
" The waves behind impel the waves before,
Wide-rolling, foaming high, they tumble to the shore."
The years 1670, 1681, 1707, 1740, 1772, 1780, and 1792,
are those in which the severest hurricanes have occurred at
Antigua. The hurricane of 1670 was most memorable. It
raged with intense severity for four hours, and in that short
space of time destroyed the new town of St. John's, which
had been rebuilt since the French invasion, and levelled al-
most every house with the ground. The ships lost in the
harbour were the " Robert," of Ireland, William Cocks,
master ; the " Merchants' Adventure," of the same place ;
the " Margaret Pink," from Tangiers, and another large
ship called the " Five Islands," besides several smaller vessels
which had come there for shelter. A wreck was also driven
ashore, in which was found the corpse of a boy, some palm
oil, and elephants' teeth, supposed to be from Guinea. That
of 1707 was also very severe, being considered one of the most
violent ever experienced in the Leeward West India Islands,
DEVASTATIONS. 201
although Antigua suffered more than any of the neighbour-
ing colonies. It blew down houses and entire sugar- works,
tore up the largest trees by the roots, and devastated whole
fields of sugar-canes ; indeed, so tremendous was the hurri-
cane, that it caused an almost general destruction. The
oldest inhabitants of the present day unite, however, in say-
ing that they never experienced one so awful as that of 1835.
About four in the afternoon it commenced to look very
wild, although the wind was moderate ; the sky was of a
deep saffron colour, and the sun shone with a fiery red.
Between five and six in the evening the wind rose, and con-
tinued increasing until about seven, when the havoc began.
Houses were levelled in an instant with the ground ; many
of the small dwellings were completely lifted from off their
slight foundations, and carried by the wind to some distance.
One old woman in particular had a narrow escape of her
life. The house in which she resided was raised about five
feet from the ground by the violence of the wind, hurried
along with the greatest velocity for about the space of
twenty feet across the road, and then placed in what was
once a pond. Luckily, however, for the good old dame, the
pond had been filled up, or, in all probability, her aerial
flight would have finished her course of existence in this
transitory sphere.
The hurricane raged with unabated force until a little
before nine, tearing up large trees by the roots, and snap-
ping asunder others as if they had been twigs ; when, sud-
denly, in a moment, the wind dropped. Not a sound was to
be heard — not a single breeze was abroad: A deep, solemn
silence reigned around — a silence which harrowed up every
feeling of the sdul, for it spoke of dire mishaps.
This continued for some time, when again the wind re-
turned with redoubled fury, as if its strength was recruited
by the short respite it had gained, and shook the very earth.
The hurricane raged until the sun got up, and then slowly
and sullenly it sank to rest ; until towards evening, nothing
was to be heard but its sobs and sighs.
k3
202 DESCRIPTION OF ST. JOHN'S.
A great many small vessels belonging to Antigua were sunk
during the gale, and many poor mortals that night found —
*«
Their death in the rushing blast,
Their grave in the yawning sea."
CHAPTER XVIII.
Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua— Situation
— Arrangement of the streets — Hucksters — Houses — Springs— Small
shops — Stores of the retail dealers— Grog-shops— Merchants' stores
and lumber yards — Definition of lumber— Auction sales — Scotch Row
and Scotchmen— Incongruous display of goods — Fire in 1797 — Ruins
— Fire in 1841 — Its devastations.
St. John's, the capital of Antigua, is situated on the west
side of the island, and contains about 979 houses. It is
built upon a slight declivity, and commands a beautiful
view of the harbour, which is one of the prettiest in the
West Indies.
The town, which is well arranged, covers a space of
about 150 acres of land ; most of the streets are wide and
well-kept, and intersect each other at right angles — the prin-
cipal ones running in a straight line down to the sea. There
is one peculiarity attending the construction of these streets,
which is, that there are no causeways ; and consequently,
the pedestrian traveller has to elbow his way amid trucks
and handbarrows, gigs, carriages, and horsemen, droves of
cattle, or cargoes of mules, just landed from other countries,
cattle -carts, or moving houses.
At the corners of the different streets are seated hucksters,
(black or coloured women;)* some with their shallow trays,
containing cakes of all descriptions, parched ground nuts,
(the arachis hypogcea,) sugar-cakes, and other confections,
and varieties of fruits and vegetables ; others have piles of
cottons, coloured calicoes, bright-tinted handkerchiefs, &c,
* The whites, or Buckra's, as they are called in the West Indies, how-
ever indigent in circumstances, pride prohibits them from engaging in
such industrious pursuits.
HOUSES. 203
placed by them, or carefully spread along the sides of the most
frequented streets, to attract the eye of the passer-by. As most
of the Antiguan houses are raised a few feet from the ground,
which necessarily requires the use of a step or two, the
hucksters are very fond of monopolizing such appurtenances ;
and it is no uncommon thing to be obliged to wait until they
remove their different wares, before you can enter the house,
or else take the chance of breaking your neck over heaps of
potatoes, or come in closer contact than is advisable with
bottles of ginger-drink, or pots and pans of gorgeous colours,
from the well-known English potteries.
The houses are generally built of wood, painted of a white
or light stone colour, with bright greenjalousies, or glass win-
dows and green Venetian blinds. The greater number have
covered galleries running along the sides or fronts of them,
in which the good people love to assemble in the cool of
evening, and while away the hours in converse sweet, or
scan over the island newspapers — two of which issue weekly
from respective presses, to enlighten the worthy inhabitants
as to what is passing in their little colony.
Some of these dwellings are very commodious, and make
a good appearance, particularly when shaded by a few beau-
tiful trees, or standing, as many of them do, in a small gar-
den, embellished with Flora's splendid children. But as for
following any of the five orders in their architectural adorn-
ments, that is quite out of the question ; or at least, it is an
order of their own invention they prefer, and which may be
called the Antiguan.
Within these last few years, a few houses have been
erected, with low roofs and parapet walls ; the usual plan is
to have that necessary part of the dwelling raised in the
fashion of an English barn, or an Egyptian pyramid. One
peculiarity which strikes the eye of a stranger in these dwell-
ings, is the absence of chimneys — the kitchens being, in
most instances, detached from the house ; and the heat of
the climate, as a matter of course, renders all grates or stoves,
and their accompanying flues, unnecessary.
204 SMALL SHOPS.
Since the serious droughts in 1833, springs or wells have
been dug in various parts of the town, which, although
the water is brackish, are of great use for many domestic
purposes, particularly to the lower classes, who do not pos-
sess a cistern. These springs have been lately modified by
having water-engines attached to them, and enclosed by a
low wall and wooden palisadings, painted of a bright sky-
colour. Me thinks, however, that Master Sol will soon spoil
their flaunting beauty. It is a pity the directors of these
improvements did not choose green instead of the other
colour ; for, from the whiteness of the streets, and the ex-
treme glare of the sunbeams, we require something to relieve
and cool the eye ; and much as we admire the lovely tint
of the heavens, light blue palings do not equally fascinate
our gaze.
In different parts of the town are numbers of small shops,
of about six or eight feet square, in which varieties of trades
are carried on. In one may be seen a cobbler — no ! I beg
their pardon — a cordwainer; himself shoeless, busily em-
ployed in forming, from his not very fragrant materials, a pair
of creaking high-heeled boots, for the use of some black exqui-
site. . A bunch of human hair attached to the end of a long
stick, and moving with every breeze, bespeaks the abode of
a barber and hair-dresser ; while a multiplicity of shreds of
cloth, half-finished vests, a goose, and other et ceteras, with
a group of mortals seated a la Turque, proves beyond doubt
that the inmates are of that particular class of beings, nine
individuals of which are required to form one ordinary man.
Others, again, of the receptacles of trade, are stocked with
provisions, such as small quantities of salt pork, corn, flour,
candles, butter, (of the consistence of honey,) a few dried
peas, or horse-beans, and any other little matters; while
some contain dry goods, as it is customary, in this island, to
term all articles of drapery. Small as these tenements are,
many of them are divided by a lathed partition, forming on
one side a butcher's shamble, where an array of sheep's
heads, miserable specimens of legs of muttony and saffron-
STORES OF THE RETAIL DEALERS. 205
coloured pork, may be met with, which, carnivorous as it
must be allowed we all are, few like their eyes to dwell
upon ; while, on the other side, gown-pieces, and " blue
checks/' with other " odds and ends," claim the frequenters'
attention.
Next to these small shops, come the stores of the retail
provision dealers, which are upon a larger scale, and of course
better supplied with goods. Then there are the grog shops,
as they are termed, where to the heterogeneous mass of eat-
ables, crockery, and tin-ware, is added the more exciting
articles of brandy, rum, gin, porter, wine, &c. ; and where
of an evening, amid fumes of every description, (from Yanky
cheese to Virginia tobacco,) and dim smoky oil lamps, parties
of soldiers, sailors, dingy-looking blacks, and unfortunate
females — ay ! and men of better rank of life, who ought to
blush to be found in such places — love to congregate, and
barter health and money, for dirty goblets of those fiery
liquids.
When passing, in an evening, these store-houses for crime,
they forcibly bring to my mind thoughts of Pandemonium.
The dusky lamps, at one moment sending forth their long
flaming tongues, the next, only serving to make darkness
visible ; the crowds of negroes, with their gleaming eyes and
glittering teeth, presenting the appearance of so many attend-
ing demons ; the groups of white soldiers or sailors, looking
more pallid in the flickering lamp-light, and greedily quaffing
the deleterious fluid, which, sooner or later, preys upon their
very vitals — and then the various sounds of cursing and
quarrelling, idiotic laughter, discordant singing, and inco-
herent talking, as the miserable frequenters arrive at the
different stages of intoxication, — conspire to render it more
like a council-chamber of tormented spirits, than the self-
chosen place of amusement of rational creatures.
The next grade of these places of merchandise are, the
merchants' stores or warehouses, with their attached lumber-
yards. These are, in most instances, large, dismal-looking
buildings, whose unwashed rafters afford safe protection to
206 MERCHANTS.
innumerable spiders of every size, or present a desirable spot
for the freemasons (the ichneumon bee) to erect their clayey
dwellings upon. One corner of these vast emporiums is
latticed off, forming a counting-house, decorated with a coat
of white, green, or yellow paint, and shewing its chequers of
red tape, for the purpose of sticking orders, letters, or bank-
notices for payments, due at the Colonial or West India Bank.
Here, on a high-legged stool, of dingy look, sits the merchant,
dressed in his round, white jacket, snowy pantaloons, Panama
or Paget hat; and, with pen in hand, and a pinch of Lundy-
foot between his fingers, (to assist his ideas, I suppose,) cal-
culates the probabilities of his 'specs, which in other days
afforded such golden harvests as to give rise to the belief,
that the streets in the West Indies were paved with
doubloons and dollars.
But let it not be imagined that this worthy and numerous
class employ all their business- hours in calculating their
gains and losses, poring over the leaves of a dusty ledger,
or puzzling their brains over their " bank accounts." Oh !
no, no — the Antiguan merchants are far too wise for that —
many a bowl of " pepper-punch" is brewed; many a long
cork of approved brand is drawn, and the " rosy red*' Vin de
Bordeaux is poured into the tendered crystal ; and many a
bottle of champagne, or " Tennent's pale ale," is un wired,
uncorked, and its creamy excellence effused for them. Nor
is the tongue idle ; well-seasoned jests and brilliant repartees
abound ; news is discussed, wit flies like arrows, and many a
rosy face grows more roseate, and many a laughing eye
becomes dewy before they part.
But I must say something more about the stores — what a
scene of confusion they present to the unaccustomed eye ! —
what varied and multiplied articles do they display ! In one
part are hogsheads of salt cod, herrings, and other salted
fish ; bins of Indian corn, rice, peas, and salt ; flour, tobacco,
barrels of blacking, and kegs of lard. In another part may
be found barrels of beef and mess-pork ; hogsheads of prime
Cumberland hams, kits of ox tongues, and barrels of biscuits ;
MERCHANTS 9 STORES. 207
sparkling Moselle, hock, seltzer- water, and lamp-oil; pre-
served meats and soups, and kegs of crackers ; pitch, tar,
rosin, and oats ; block-tin tureens, spirits of turpentine, and
Cognac brandy ; crates of earthenware, rose nails, and hogs-
heads of tin-ware ; with London pickles, agricultural imple-
ments, and hair-brooms. On another side of the store lie
huddled together hogsheads of Barclay's brown stout, boxes
of soap, bundles of wood-hoops, and cases of gilded cornices;
boxes of raisins and currants, paving flags, and masts and
oars ; firkins of Cork butter, hogsheads of lime, and patent
corkscrews ; Hyson teas, Durham mustard, loaf-sugar, and
Havannah cigars; potatoes, onions, Bologna sausage, and
blacksmiths' coals; artificers' tools, anti-corrosion paint,
currycombs, and gold vxttches ; the whole wound up with
Rowland's Macassar oil, floating soap, and quack medicines,
consisting of Morrison's pills, and Swain's Panacea, which,
if we believe the labels, are to cure every ill "that flesh is
heir to;" while from the ceiling dangle in graceful negligence,
coils of rope, and horses' halters.
To prove to any of my readers who may be sceptical of
the truth of such a various assemblage of goods, as I have
stated the merchant's stores contain, I will give a correct copy
of a cargo handed about to the different merchants, as
brought by an American vessel arrived to-day : —
CARGO ON BOARD BRIO " RANDOLPH," FROM PHILADELPHIA.
1 box fine beaver hats
100 boxes cheese
3 doz. Windsor chairs
12 barrels pitch
118 covered hams
2 casks of shoulders
30 barrels pilot bread
10 do. navy do.
30-3 do. sugar biscuits
20-3 do. soda
20-3 crackers
50 kegs lard
30 blls. mess pork
100 kegs butter
13 boxes lump tobacco
20 do. champagne cider
20 doz. buckets
50 boxes soap, 24 lbs.
700 do. 16 lbs.
50 do. mould candles
17 do. do.
Offers in cash, or negotiable notes, 1 o'clock.
16 nurses' rocking chairs
8 ladies' cane do.
1 doz. children's do.
49 barrels potatoes
18£ gross lucifer matches
1 mahogany spring-seat sofa
1 do. wash-stand, marble top
3 boxes stationery
4 backgammon boards
12 bridles
22 J doz. black ink in boxes
1 mahogany spring-seat, rock-
ing chair
2 wooden arm chairs
208 LUMBER YARDS.
From the store we will take a walk into the lumber yard.
But before I proceed to describe it, it will be necessary for
me to make another digression, and let those of my readers
who may be yet ignorant of the real meaning of the term
know what " lumber'' is. Upon my first acquaintance with
West Indians, I was particularly surprised to hear them talk
so much about lumber, and of Mr. This and Mr. That dealing
in such commodity. As my mind has ever been apt to roam
far and wide, I no sooner heard the merits of this pecu-
liar article (if I may so call it) discussed, than my school-
days' tasks presented themselves to my recollection, and I
mentally murmured with Dr. Johnson, '< lum-ber, lumber,
old useless furniture."
Having arrived at this definition, again I fancied myself
amid broken chairs and tables, sofas minus a leg, shattered
looking-glasses, musty, dusty, rusty, grates, antique bottles,
and similar chattels, where in one of my hoyden days I had
scrambled to look for a bird-cage in which to imprison a
poor half' fledged skylark, captured for me by a little ragged
protege* of mine, known by the true English name of " Bill."
Yet still I was not satisfied ; for what, thought I, can
West Indian merchants find so particularly valuable in all
these divers specimens of mutilation, as to induce them to
deal so largely in- them ? I could only answer mine own
query by exclaiming " 'tis strange ! 'tis passing strange !"
Time wore on, however, and I arrived at Antigua ; then my
wonder soon ceased, and I found out that in fact a lumber
merchant signifies nothing less than a dealer in timber.
Having endeavoured to give the Antiguan definition of
lumber, I will now proceed to describe " the yard." It is
generally entered by passing through the store, at the hazard
of putting your foot into pools of rosin or varnish, slipping
over stray peas, or half-breaking your neck over heaps of
brickbats. At length the yard is gained, and drawing a long
breath, as much from heat as exercise, I look around. On
each side of the door are huge stacks of staves, piled up in
a very uniform manner, used for making hogsheads or
AUCTION SALES. 209
tierces for packing sugar, or puncheons for the conveyance
of rum. In other parts of the yard are bundles of cypress
or cedar shingles,* white and pitch pine boards, planks and
scantlings, all packed in appropriate order; that is, when
they are not landing cargoes, and the master has an eye to
tidy appearances ; but if this is not the case, the different
species of lumber are tumbling about in all directions.
Then there are large sheds erected in various parts of the
yard, for the purpose of securing " hard- wood" (as mahogany,
mill-timber, &c.) from the effects of the weather. There is
also very generally a pigeon-house or two to be met with,
and their pretty inmates may be seen gliding about, picking
up the scattered grain, or, perched upon one of the lumber
stacks, watch your every movement with their bright round
eyes, while their variegated breasts glitter in the sun-beams
like so many gems. At the bottom of the yard large gates
open to the sea, furnished with a huge crane ; and here it is
that all those incongruous articles which fill their stores, and
bring wealth to their coffers, are landed.
When the merchants are visited by certain fears and
twitchings, relative to the fact of their not being able to dis-
pose of their diversified merchandise, they " call an auction ;"
and under the auspices of the red flag,f and with the assist-
ance of the auctioneer's lungs and hammer, instead of har-
lequin's magic wand, turn all these " creature's comforts"
into pounds, shillings, and pence.
In some parts of the town are auction rooms, where, with
the same laudable zeal for " charming variety," things as
distinct from each other as the nadir is from the zenith, are
put up, the mysterious words " going, going, gone" uttered,
and finally knocked down to the attendants — whites, blacks,
and coloured.
Having mentioned the stores of those philanthropists, who,
for the mere consideration of a little dirty pelf, undertake to
provide so liberally for the inner man, it will be necessary
* Used for covering the tops of houses, as tiles or slates are in England.
f A flag is always hoisted upon places where a sale is held.
210 SCOTCH ROW.
to take a look at those temples of fashion, fancy, and fasci-
nation, commonly known in this island as " Scotch shops/'
or in other words, Antiguan haberdashery stores.
In a particular part of St. John's, running north and south,
lies a well-made broad street, which, from being inhabited
principally by Scotchmen, is known by the appropriated
name of " Scotch Row." Capital stores (when I am at
Rome, I like to do as Rome does, and give everything its
approved title) flank each side of the street, and display their
glittering wares to the admiration of passers-by ; and from
whence (with but few exceptions) emanate those dresses and
ribbons of a thousand dyes, with which the fair sex of every
colour delight to enrobe their lovely forms.
Here, as in the merchants' stores, may be found articles
of the most opposite natures. In one part lies a delicate
white satin bonnet, with its bunches of " orange flowers," to
grace the head of some blushing bride, or decorated with the
snowy plumes torn by the swarthy African from some swift-
footed ostrich ; while by its side reposes a broken ewer, or
an iron pot.
You may, in truth, buy anything and everything in these
" Scotch shops/' from three farthings' worth of tape to the
most costly articles. Dresses of all kinds ; ribbons, laces,
flowers, and bonnets; coats, vests, pantaloons, umbrellas,
and shoes ; blondes, scarfs, mantelets, perfumery, and ten-
penny nails; paint, frying-pans, and carpets; jewellery of
every description, dripping-pans, and Seidlitz powders;
Epsom salts, ginger-beer, and white lead ; horses' halters,
cherry-tree chairs, and preserved fruits ; children's dresses,
lanterns, horse-whips, and coffee ; sugar-loaves, saddles,
bonnet-shapes, and white-handled knives ; ladies' corsets,
Valenciennes edging, and Westphalia hams ; pigs' tongues,
truckle cheese, and bird-seed ; dish- covers, bottle-baskets,
hooks-and-eyes, and brimstone; harness, cattle medicines,
and lozenges ; " Mechian" razor strops, and Metcalf 's tooth-
brushes ; with brandy, champagne, Madeira, sherry, port,
INCONGRUOU8 DISPLAY OF GOODS. 211
sauterne, Rhenish wines, bottled stout, pale ale, glasses to
drink all these good articles out of, and I know not what
besides. Loaves of sugar dangling by the side of zephyr
scarfs, or candle-boxes vis-a-vis with ostrich feathers.
Oh ! ye tradesmen of Regent-street, so polite and per-
fumed, and such calibre, who stand behind your glossy
counters with the air of " my lord duke," or glide with noise-
less steps and mincing airs over your Persian carpeted floor,
— what, what would you think of our Antiguan shops?
Or how would those over- fashionable gentlemen at Storrand
Mortimer's be astounded, when tendering for approval to
" beauty bright" those costly gems which carry us back to
the days of the Arabian nights, if they came in contact with
a brass kettle or an iron pot !
I often wonder how the pale-faced, straight-haired clerks
(for they are not termed shopmen in this part of the world)
manage to get on among such a multiplicity of dissimilar
articles ; or that from being asked for so many contrary
goods during the day, they do not make many and greater
mistakes. A lady drives up in her carriage to the door of
one of these labyrinthan depdts of vanity, and in that " low
soft voice so sweet in woman," asks to be shewn some orange
flower chaplets, and essence of Frangipanier. The poor
clerk, his brains turning round like a revolving light, flies to
obey her commands ; but lo ! in his hurry and confusion, he
catches up a frying-pan^ and with streaming brow, presents
the inelegant article to the lady's astounded and horrified
gaze, instead of the delicate perfume.
The master of these gay and changeful stores, is as diversi-
formed as his goods are various. In the morning he stands
behind his counter, and " bows to" and " ma'am's" any black
member of the canaille that condescends to purchase a few
yards of " half-a-bit" (2d. sterling) ribbon to sandal her mill-
post ankle ; while in the evening, in all the glories of white
pantaloons, new coat, smart buttons and embroidered stock,
he figures away at an aristocratic dinner party.
212 SCOTCHMEN.
Times are indeed altered with these Scotchmen* In former
years, when Sawney left his mountain home, his trouty lochs,
and oaten bannocks, for the hot suns and debilitating climate
of these " Isles of the West ;" he did it for the sake alone
of siller. As to ambition — faugh ! he hated the very name,
or else, like the cock in Esop's fable, he spurned the glitter-
ing bauble, of which he knew not the worth. They plodded
on from year to year, increased their stock of goods, and
added many a round dollar to their worldly wealth, and then
sat down contentedly to enjoy the smoky flavour of their
usquebaugh, forming no greater acquaintance with the go-
vernor, than as they saw him proceed to the court-house in
discharge of his high office, or knowing no more of govern-
ment-house than the outer appearance.
But the Scotchmen of the present day scorn the lowly
ideas of their predecessors. They ape the man of fashion,
call their haberdashery store a merchant's warehouse, and
foregoing the vulgar title of draper, take to themselves the
loftier name of merchant. Nor is this all. They attend the
governor's levees, play the amiable at a quadrille party, fre-
quent the billiard table, or perchance take wine with his
excellency, and grin and bow with approved precision. Their
shops prove an agreeable morning lounge for the superiors
of the island, and in a glass of sangaree, or a flowing bowl of
pepper-punchy the difference of grade between the entertainer
and the entertained is overlooked.
That " there is no rule without an exception," is a true
apophthegm ; and among the many emigrants from the
" land o' cakes/' some very respectable individuals are to be
met with.
I believe it a correct statement to assert, that " Scotch
Row" begins with one of this superior class, and ends with
him who has been called " The father of the Scotchmen,*'
not from his age, but from his high conduct.
Mr. H is a man in whom great urbanity is blended
with strong determination of character. He possesses va-
APPROPRIATE NAMES OF STREETS. 213
ried talents, and is no mean disciple of St. Cecilia's ; and
although, perhaps, not altogether ranking among the literati
in the fuller sense of that term, yet he
«<
-laughing can instruct Much has he read,
Much more has seen : he studied from the life,
And in the original perused mankind."
Philosophy to him, however, is no gloomy subject; no
solemn stalking about wrapt up in his own stately ideas, and
scorning, with cynic's eye, any harmless mirth. In the words
of one of Britain's poets, I may say of him —
«
-nor purpose gay,
Amusement, dance or song, he sternly scorns."
Nature seems to have intended him for a higher occupa-
tion, than to stand behind a counter and sell a few yards of
tape, or a paper of pins.
The streets of the capital have all their proper appella-
tions, although no painted board announces such a fact to the
traveller. The east and west streets, beginning southerly,
are — South-street, Tanner , Nevis, Ratcliff, St. Mary's, High, /v/ti/VtOU
Long, Church, Newgate, Wapping, NorTnTTKffiopgate, St'. \j
John's, St. George's ; north and south streets, beginning £*
easterly, are — East-street, Cross, Church-lane, Temple,
Steeple-street, Corn, Market, Friendly-alley, Gutter-lane,
Newgate-lane, Popeshead, Thames, Coney-Warren-lane,
Subscription -alley, Craw-lane, Wilkinson 's-street, and Mari-
ner's-lane. Some of these lanes and alleys are famous for
their grog-shops, particularly that establishment known by
the appropriate name of " The Hole-in-the-Wall,'' for the
only entrance is a low arched door-way scooped out of its
massy walls.
One part of the town bears the somewhat lofty title of
" The Parade." In former years it answered as a kind of
exchange, where the merchants congregated together during
" 'Change hours," and discussed the business of the com-
mercial world. Cargoes of all descriptions were here disposed
214 COAL POTS.
of; dollars and doubloons in one moment changed owners,
and human flesh and blood was openly bartered. For a long
period, however, the Parade visibly declined in importance,
and became but the shadow of itself; but within these last
few years, it has, phoenix like, sprung up with renewed
vigour, and presents to the passenger's eye many good and
bustling stores.
St. John's has, at various times, suffered severely from
conflagrations — a circumstance not to be wondered at, when
we consider the great number of wooden buildings, and the
carelessness of persons in throwing about particles of fire.
In 1769, an accident of this nature occurred, which was most
direful in its consequence. It arose from the negligence of
a woman who was employed in ironing, and who omitted to
extinguish the fire in a coal-pot, after finishing her labours.
It may be necessary, perhaps, for the comprehension of
some of my readers who may not be conversant with West
Indian domestic subjects, to mention more fully the con-
struction of a coal-pot. In some of the islands these utensils
are composed of clay, moulded into the form of buckets, and
baked in a moderate fire ; but the Antiguan coal-pot is no-
thing more nor less than a deal box, clamped with iron or tin,
and lined with bricks plastered over. A few pieces of old iron
hoop are placed horizontally across the box at stated intervals
about halfway from the bottom, and upon these is placed a
layer of charcoal. The irons are arranged upon the top, and
the coals ignited; no bellows are used, except what Nature has
afforded in the owners' own lungs ; or when their breath fails,
and the fuel still proves refractory, their large straw hat is
displaced from their heads, and brandished before the mouths
of their little stoves, with sundry ejaculations of " Eh ! eh!
war do de co-als to-day, me b'lieve dem no want to burney."
But to return to the fire in 1769; it burnt with fearful
rapidity. The gaol, custom-house, indeed nearly the whole
town, fell a prey to the destructive element, 260 houses
being levelled with the ground, and some of the finest stores
FIRES. 215
and richest merchandise destroyed. Government granted
1000/. for the relief of the sufferers ; and their kind friends
in Liverpool collected, during the following year, the sum of
of 346/. 2s. 6d. 9 which was thankfully and gratefully re-
ceived.
Many other fires have occurred since then, the vestiges of
which remain to this day ; one in particular, known by the
appropriate name of the burnt wall, is still pointed out to the
notice of the stranger. Part of this land has been lately
purchased by the Wesleyans, who have erected a small chapel
upon it, which answers also for a school-room, and where
preaching is held on Friday evenings.
But the conflagration which happened on the 2nd April,
1841, has effaced the memory of all other events of the
same nature. It broke out in the house of a person carry-
ing on the business of a straw bonnet-maker, after the
family had retired to rest, and it was only discovered in
time for the inmates to make their escape by jumping from
the upper windows.
A few moments after it was first perceived, the walls fell,
and the flames burst forth with a fearful rapidity, curling
and twisting themselves in all directions ; seizing upon every
thing within their reach, and illuminating the heavens with
their awfully grand lustre. The church bell tolled forth its
solemn warning ; drums beat an alarm ; and, in the words of
an old writer, when describing the fire in London in 1666,
" dreadful screams disturbed the midnight quiet, and raised
the affrighted people from their beds, who, scarce awake,
all seemed to be a dream. Each one appeared but as a
moving statue, as once Lot's wife, viewing her flaming Sodom,
was transformed into a pillar."
So saith " Samuel Wiseman," and his graphic description
answers equally for the fire of Antigua, as it did in yore,
for that of London.
House after house, store after store, fell beneath the
raging element ; or, when built of stone, only their bare and
216 DEVASTATION CAUSED BY FIRE.
blackened walls were left standing. No sooner was one
house on fire, than the flames were pouring into the windows
of the next ; scathing the trees as they passed, dismantling
them of their verdure, and leaving them only a seared and
withered trunk. Again the Custom House fell a victim,
and to this cause many deficiencies in the statistical part of
this work may be attributed ; for, from the suddenness and
violence of the fire, many valuable records were lost.
Still the fiery deluge rolled on, — at one moment the sky
was almost hidden by the dense masses of smoke ; at another,
bright spiral lines of flame shot up into the air, and
cast a lurid light on all around. I am sorry to record it,
but the negro-men behaved very ill, refusing to lend assist-
ance, (in most instances,) but employing their time in plun-
dering from the sufferers. To the glory of the women, be
it spoken, they did not follow the example of their kinsmen,
but cheerfully and firmly laboured through that awful night.
The crew of two French ships of war, which chanced to be
lying in the harbour, also assisted, aided by the sailors from
the English and island vessels ; and the gentlemen of the
town, headed by the lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail,
(who flew to the scene of danger stockingless and almost
slipperless,) worked with undaunted courage and good-will ;
and by dint of energy, and pulling down several small houses,
so as to make room for the flames in their gyral evolutions,
at length succeeded in gaining the mastery over their for-
midable enemy.
But, alas ! when morning came, and threw a steady light
upon the picture, what a melancholy sight was presented to
the view. A long line of building, including the best and
finest houses, entirely destroyed ; lumber-yards and ware-
houses despoiled of their goods, and the very streets strewed
ankle-deep with burnt salt-fish, peas, rice, flour, and similar
articles! In some parts might be seen groups of negroes
carousing around some gutted dwelling, tearing out the
burning provisions, and, amid all this desolation and the
mournful feelings of men, who, in one short night, had lost
PECUNIARY ESTIMATE OF LOSS. 217
that for which they had toiled for years, shouting forth
from their stentorian lungs snatches of some bacchanalian
song, or allowing their vacant heartless laugh to vibrate
painfully upon the silent morning air.
Ever and anon, the smouldering fire sent up some fitful
glare ; or a brilliant coruscation of sparks, shot forth from
some still burning log of pitch-pine, gilded the surrounding
scene with their beautiful but dangerous showers. The fire
burnt down to the sea-side ; seizing upon the very timber of the
wharfs and cranes, and destroy ing them to the water's edge. The
amount of damage has been estimated at 250,000/. sterling ;
but the loss is more than can be calculated, for it has despoiled
and depopulated one of the finest and busiest streets in the
town, and which, from the depressed state of trade, will be
long, very long, before it is again rebuilt.
More than eight months have silently rolled by since that
awful cry of " Fire" awoke the Antiguans from their tranquil
slumbers, and sent a thrill of dismay through the hearts of
all. And there stand the ruins, blackened and cracked by
the intense heat which caused the very glass to pour down
in streams, which, when congealed, appeared like icicles ;
or else, only shewing by the open space, where the ill-fated
dwellings stood — where the voice of happy infancy once
uttered many a jocund shout — or where the soft full tone of
riper years carolled many a light and gladsome lay. Long
grass and luxuriant weeds have already grown up in the
spot once dedicated to business or pleasure, and the bat
and the lizard have made it their t>wn.
VOL. I.
218 CHURCH OF ST. JOHN'S.
CHAPTER XIX.
Description of the church of St. John's — Period of its erection — Present
site — Panoramic views — Form of structure — Length and breadth —
Interior — Decorations — Monuments — Organ — Tower — Bells —
Clock — Churchyard — Tombs, and sepulchral inscriptions — An
acrostic — " Adam and Eve I"
The first place of public worship erected in St. John's was
the parochial church, commenced in 1683-4. It was a small
wooden building, standing about sixty yards further to the
south than the present church ; and, if we are to believe an
old writer, totally destitute of beauty or comfort. During the
administration of Gen. Walter Hamilton, it was found to be in
such a dilapidated state, that in 1716 the necessity of erecting
a new church was submitted to the legislature ; and with the
concurrence of the members of that body, an act was passed the
same year, granting a provision for building a new place of
worship, (to be dedicated to St. John,) and imposing a yearly
tax for the purpose of keeping the said church in repair.
It was not, however, until between the years 1721 and 1723,
during the period that John Hart was administrating the
government of these islands, that the erection of the
church was commenced. Mr. Robert Cullen was the archi-
tect, and by his suggestions, its site was laid to the north of
the old building ; thus occupying the very spot where the
militia were stationed in 1710, when ordered to fire upon
Governor Park, in that unhappy difference between him and
the country, and which ended so fatally to himself.
The present parochial church is pleasantly situated upon
an ascent, at the head of the town, and commands from
every side a wide and beautiful view of the surrounding
country. From the west door, the eye ranges over the
bustling town, with its motley groups of passengers — dwells
for a time upon the long line of ruined buildings destroyed
by the fire already described — scans the lovely harbour,
with its graceful shipping, the interesting bay of the Five
Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a long line of
FORM OF 8TRUCTURE. 219
cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the situation
of Dickenson's Bay — and then roves on to the offing, where
a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out ;
and where, perhaps, a far-off sail may be seen, which looks
in the distance like the white wing of some passing gull.
From the south door, another beautiful and panoramic
view may be obtained, particularly towards the close of the
day, when the sun has almost completed his daily journey,
and, shorn of his fervent beams, throws on every cloud his
myriad dyes. The part of the town then presented to the
gaze of the beholder slopes by a gradual descent towards
the suburbs, bounded by Otto's Hill (an estate belonging to
the representatives of Bastien Baijer) and the surrounding
country. At the extent of the horizon runs a long range of
mountains — the more distant ones presenting a greyish,
gloomy colour, while others have their tops irradiated with
a brilliant fringe of gold or purple, as the different clouds
appear to rest upon them. Of this chain, the declivities of
which afford every species of beauty, and every gradation
of varying green, the lower ones are generally in a state of
cultivation ; and their undulating surface presents in some
places groups of lovely trees, or breaks into patches of sugar-
canes, clusters of negro-huts, and sugar-mills.
The church itself, which is built of brick, washed of a light
yellow, is cruciform ; the north and south vestibules forming
the arms of the cross. The extreme length, from the inner
west door to the altar-piece, is 130 feet; and the breadth,
exclusive of the vestibules, (or porches,) is 50 feet. In the
interior, eighteen plain wooden pillars divide the nave from the
north and south aisles ; the sixteen lower ones forming the
support to the north and south galleries. The roof of the
nave is a semicircular vault, painted to represent the heavens,
with all their drapery of light and fleecy clouds ; and when
viewed from the west door, has a very pretty effect.
The chancel roof is of the same pitch, but of a pyramidal
form ; it is painted in the same manner as the nave, and is
supported by four square fluted columns,
l2
220 INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH.
The altar is very beautifully devised. In the centre are
the tables of the ten commandments, gold-lettered upon a
black ground. On each side are full-length paintings of
Moses, and of Aaron, in his " holy garments." That of
Aaron is very finely executed ; the face is such as we can
imagine that of the great u high-priest'' to have been, ma-
jestic, but beautiful ; and the " robes," the " breast-plate,"
the " ephod," the " curious girdle," and the St golden censer,"
are very correctly painted. The outer tables of " The Belief"
and " Lord's Prayer" are handsomely gilded — the inscrip-
tion being executed in letters of black ; and over the com-
mandments, in the centre of the altar, is a medallion paint-
ing of cherubs. The several compartments are divided by
gilded pilasters; the cornices, architraves, and friezes, are
very pretty and tasteful ; and in the inter-columniations are
one or two triglyphs.
The communion-table is covered with dark purple velvet,
fringed deeply with gold ; and on either end lie cushions to
match. The communion-service plate is very handsome ;
the large salver, measuring eighteen inches in diameter, was
presented to the church by John Otto Baijer, Esq., about
the year 1724. . It displays a representation of the " Lord's
Supper," the figures in beautiful basso-relievo, and bears the
following inscription : —
Donum Domini Johannis Otto Baijer
Ad Templum Divi Johannis Antigua.
The two smaller salvers and the cup are inscribed as
follows : —
In usum Templi Divi Johannis in Antigua
Gulielmus Jones Parochialis hujus olim Rector
Donum Dedit
Besides the communion-plate, the table supports a pair of
tall silver lamps, with ground-glass burners, bearing the
inscription —
Donum Domini Petre Lee ad Templum Divi
Johannis in Antigua.
And on each side of the table stand quaint-looking chairs,
MONUMENTS. 221
for the accommodation of the bishop and archdeacon, which
have been used for that purpose since the dismantling of the
" Bishop's Pew. 1 '
The pulpit and desk are of dark oak, as also the railings
to the stairs ; and, like the communion-table, have each their
drapery and cushions of dark purple, with deep gold fringe
and tassels, and the " I. H. S." encircled with its golden rays.
Formerly the pulpit, surmounted by a sounding-board, stood
further down the nave; but after being removed once or
twice, the desk has been separated from the pulpit, and they
are placed at the entrance of the chancel, on each side the
aisle.
About the centre of the church is suspended a brass chan-
delier, consisting of ten branches, which have been lately
fitted up with ground-glass burners ; it was a gift (by will,
2nd May, 1740) to the church, from Phillip Darby, an old
inhabitant of Antigua, and rector of St. John's.
At the entrance of the church from the north vestibule
stands a small marble font, of a semi-spherical form, orna-
mented with four heads of cherubs, and supported by a corni-
form pedestal. It is intended to be placed at the extreme
end of the middle aisle, immediately before the west entrance,
and opposite the altar — a site far more applicable for it than
where it now stands.
The church is lighted by fourteen windows: six in the
north aisle, six in the south aisle, and two in the east end of
the building. Formerly they were all fitted up with jalousies;
but within these last few years, the eight nearest the altar
have been reglazed with ground glass, arranged in a Gothic
pattern. These windows are divided into six compartments ;
and are so contrived, that, by aid of a turnscre w, they can be
opened to a certain height. They certainly add to the beauty
of the edifice, but deteriorate from its comfort^ by rendering
it warmer than it otherwise would be : a circumstance not
desirable in this fervid climate.
Several fine monuments grace the walls of this sacred
building; but the oldest sepulchral inscription is upon a
222 INSCRIPTION.
stone slab, in the chancel, to the memory of Mrs. Gilbert,
wife of Mr. Gilbert, who introduced methodism* in Antigua,
and who died in 1747.
In the south aisle are the following monuments : —
An elegant mural monument of white marble upon a black
ground, erected to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Ottley, wife
of Richard Ottley, Esq., and daughter of Ashton Warner,
speaker of the house of assembly in 1716. The ornamental
part of this monument consists of the figure of a seraph with
outspread wings, leaning upon a sepulchral urn, bearing a
coronal of undying laurel leaves in its right hand ; and in its
left an inverted torch, partly extinguished, emblematical of the
uncertainty of human life. The inscription is as fol-
lows : —
44 Near to this place is laid, with the remains of her honoured parents,
the body of Elizabeth, the pious, amiable, and much-beloved wife of
Richard Ottley ; who departed this life, in the Island of St Vincent, on
Thursday, 28th August, in the year of our Lord one thousand seven
hundred and sixty- six, in the thirty-second year of her age.
" She was the daughter of Ashton Warner, Esq.,f Attorney-General
of Antigua, by Elizabeth, his wife, and was born the 7th June, 1735, 0.S.;
married 25th October, in the year 1753, and left issue surviving her,
one son and three daughters — viz., Drewry, Elizabeth, Mary Trant, and
Alice.
" She possessed a graceful person, an excellent understanding, and a
sweetness of disposition that engaged the esteem of all that knew her,
and performed with so much complacency the several duties in her
family, and those of a good friend and neighbour, that it may be truly
said she died universally lamented, and a real loss to that infant colony.
Her inconsolable husband (in whose arms she expired, after bearing
with admirable fortitude and resignation the excruciating pains of a
long and difficult labour) caused this monument to be erected to her
memory.
" The son with whom she died reclines upon that breast which would
have nourished him had the Almighty so permitted."
A very chaste and elegant white marble tablet, forming a
Gothic arch, erected to the memory of the Honourable Sam.
* See Chapter XX.
t A descendant of Sir Thomas Warner, who planted the first English
colony in Antigua.
INSCRIPTION TO OTTO BAUER. 223
Otto Baijer, a descendant of Bastien Baijer, who signed the
capitulation in 1666, bearing the following inscription : —
As a last mournfdl token of affection,
This Tablet is erected by
Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
To the memory of her beloved Father,
The Honourable Samuel Otto Bauer,
Of Pares Estate, in this Island ;
Who died at Philadelphia
On the 20th of December, 1835,
Aged 54 years.
Also to the memory of her Mother,
Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
Who died in 1813, at Dove Hall,
In the Island of Jamaica,
In the 27th year of her age.
Also to the memory of her Brother,
Rowland Archibald Otto Baijer,
Son of the above-named
Samuel Otto Baijer and Mary Elizabeth his Wife,
Who died at Pares Estate, in this Island,
On the 24th of November, 1837,
Aged 25 years and 8 months,
And whose remains repose near this spot.
A small, unpretending marble tablet: —
Sacred
To the Memory of
Elizabeth Jane Harman,
Who died on the 16th April, a.d. 1828,
Aged 21 years.
" We have this treasure in earthen vessels."
A pyramidal monument, supported by fluted pillars, and
bearing a small sarcophagus, surmounted by two figures of
children or cherubs, holding in their hands a scroll, on
which is written texts from Scripture. The inscription is as
follows : —
"Supported only by a meek obedience to the decrees of Eternal
Wisdom, and a firm trust in the Atonement of a gracious Redeemer,
William and Ruth Atkinson, once inhabitants of Antigua, and now of
Dominica, as an inadequate evidence of their intense and aggravated
anguish for the poignant and crushing trial they have undergone in the
loss of both their children, pay this melancholy tribute, when advancing
into manly, lively virtue, such as fills the parents' soul with solid comfort
"George Atkinson, their first and last spared hope, had nearly
reached his twelfth year. This blooming prop of their declining age—
when, by a mild and artless truth, joined to innate goodness and suavity
224 MONDMENT8 AND INSCRIPTIONS.
of temper, he had irresistibly won the esteem and love of all— quitted
this life without a straggle on Sunday, 5th Dec. 1779.
44 William Atkinson, their youngest, died in infancy.
What poets paint, what marbles feebly tell,
Defective far are all ;
Such woes are only to be known
To real feeling souls.
Where equal growing filial worth's bewail'd,
The name of Son thus lost, all consolation fail'd.
1782."»
A small tablet, representing a white scroll upon a black
ground, surmounted by a laurel chaplet, bearing inscription :
In memory of
Auther Teagle,
Who departed this life
On the 20th November, 1839,
Aged 43 years.
" Thy will be done."
In the north aisle are four monuments ; the first, begin-
ning from the east, erected to a late curate of St. John's.
It consists of a white marble tablet, and above, the figure of
an angel soaring upwards, and encompassed with clouds.
The tablet bears the following inscription : —
To the memory of
The Rev. William Thomas Bernard, A.B.,
Of Trinity College, Dublin,
Late curate of mis parish,
Where, after a short residence of four months,
In the faithful exercise of his ministry, and
The manifestation of much private worth,
He died of fever, Nov. 2nd, 1835,
In the 26th year of his age,
Most deeply and generally regretted,
This tribute of esteem and affection
Is erected,
Partly by his much afflicted Sister,
Ellen M. Baily,
And partly by the Right Rev. William Hart Coleridge, D.D.,
Lord Bishop of this diocese,
The clergy of Antigua, and other friends in the
Island, who mourn his early loss.
Beneath the tablet are his coat of arms, with the motto —
" Bear and Forbear."
A white marble monument, with a deep border of varie-
gated brown marble, to the memory of a descendant of Sir
* This strangely-worded inscription is copied verbatim.
inscriptions. 225
Thomas Warner. The ornamental part consists of a female
figure enveloped in widow-like drapery, and leaning upon
an urn. The inscription is as follows : —
This monument
Is erected to the memory of
The Honourable William Warner, Esq.,
Who was a member of His Majesty's Council,
And Treasurer of this Island.
Honourable by his office of Counsellor,
But
More honourable as a man :
For if
Virtue alone is true nobility,
And if justice, moderation, temperance, meekness,
Consummate honesty, charity, generosity, and
Conjugal affection, are virtues that are held in any estimation
Among men,
This man,
Who lived in the exercise of them all
Was truly honourable.
He died on Friday, 11 October, 1771, in the forty-third year of his age,
Universally regretted, and lamented by all orders and degrees among
Us.
iTo commemorate her anguish for his loss, and as a public
Testimony of her love and duty, his disconsolate widow hath
Caused this memorial to be raised.
Gloria in excelsis Deo l 4
A very elegantly designed white pyramidal monument
erected to the memory of an only child. A chastely sculp-
tured female figure leans upon a " storied urn," with a beau-
tifully chiselled wreath of flowers thrown around her. This
monument has been unfortunately injured, one of the hands
and part of the arm of the figure being broken off.
In memory of her only and beloved daughter,
Sarah Kelsick,
Wife of Mr. John Kelsick, merchant in Antigua,
Who died on 20th' day of March, 1785,
In the 19th year of her age.
This monument was erected by her disconsolate mother,
Sarah Eccleston,
Wife of Isaac Eccleston, Esq.,
1792.
From the parent, the husband, the Mend,
Her social and amiable virtues
Claim the tribute of affliction,
And though early cut oflj
She must ever live in the memory of those
Who had the happiness of her acquaintance.
Vivit post funera virtus.
L3
226 MONUMENT TO LORD LAVINGTON.
The next is an elaborate and splendid monument, erected
by the country to the memory of Ralph Lord Lavington ;
and however peculiar the taste which dictated the design,
the execution, at least, possesses merit. The top figure re-
presents his lordship in a sitting posture, habited in the old
court dress, and his plumed hat lying at his feet. The in-
scription is traced upon a light grey marble, hollowed out so
as to allow of the insertion of a small sarcophagus, bearing
his coat of arms, with a beautifully -executed branch of oak-
leaves thrown across it.
Two female figures recline on each side ; the one on the
left hand, representing Astrea with her scales by her side,
and the hilt of the sword of justice, very minutely and beau-
tifully sculptured, protruding from behind the sarcophagus ;
her finely-formed and classic face is up-turned towards the
old lord. In the other figure we behold the genius of the
island, mourning for the loss of a favourite governor. She
holds in her right hand a scroll, upon which is inscribed —
" Resolved, that a monument be erected to his memory,"
while with her left hand she shades her features as if in
deep grief. At the feet of these figures rolls the sea, the
waves, surmounted with their foam, very well executed.
This costly monument bears the following inscription : —
Sacred
To the memory of
Ralph Payne Lord Lavington,
Of the kingdom of Ireland,
One of His Majesty's most honourable Privy Council,
Knight of the most honourable Order of the Bath,
and Captain-general, and Commander-in-chief of
The Leeward Islands.
Upon the base of the monument is the following brief
biographical inscription : —
" He was born in the Island of St' Christopher's, of an English family,
distinguished for its loyalty and public spirit His education he received
in England, and it prepared him for the distinctions which awaited his
return to his native isle, when he was elected a member of the House of
Assembly, and on its first meeting unanimously called to the chair of
the House, in which high situation he gave an early display of those
superior talents and eminent qualifications which afterwards secured
MONUMENT TO MRS. MTJSGRAVE. . 227
him the confidence of his king, and the esteem of his country.
On his return to England in 1762, he was elected a member of the
House of Commons for the borough of Plympton, Devonshire ; and
from his perfect knowledge of colonial affairs, he was appointed in
1771 — a period of national interest — to be captain-general and com-
mander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, at which time he was also
invested with the most honourable Order of the Bath. He remained
in the exercise of his government until 1774, when he returned to
England, and was appointed a member of the Board of Green Cloth.
During the period of his residence in England, he sat in five parlia-
ments, and in 1795, his Majesty was graciously pleased to raise him to
the dignity of a peer in Ireland, by the style and title of Baron Laving-
ton of Lavington. In 1799, he was sworn one of his Majesty's most
honourable Privy Council, and again appointed to the chief command
of the Leeward Islands, in the wise and able administration of which
important trust he passed his latter years
And closed his venerable life.
This nobleman
Was revered for his public qualities,
As he was beloved for his private virtues.
He blended the dignity of his high office with the affability of his dis-
position and the gracefulness of his manners,
And at once commanded the respect, and conciliated the affections of all
ranks of people
Within the circle of his government
As a sincere and lasting testimony of their veneration and regret,
The Legislature of Antigua
Have erected this monument
He died at the Government House of this Island, on the 3rd day of Aug.
1807, aged 68 ; and was interred at his own estate, called Carlisles."
The whole of this very handsome monument is enclosed
in an arch of plain black marble. I should have mentioned
that the ornamental parts of this tomb are all in pure white
marble.
The remaining monument is erected to the memory of
Mrs. Musgrave, who was unfortunately thrown out of her
carriage (the horse becoming restive and breaking the shafts)
and killed upon the spot. This unhappy catastrophe oc-
curred in one of the streets of St. John's, and a representa-
tion of the event, absurd as it may seem, is sculptured upon
the monument (which is of white marble) in basso-relievo.
In the background is the animal, apparently of the cart-horse
breed, scampering away with the broken shafts and traces
hanging around him ; in the foreground, is the figure of a
man, kneeling and supporting in his arms a female, whose
228 MONUMENT TO MRS. MU8GRAV&.
listless posture portrays the dire event. The face of the
female is well executed, the features expressing acute suffer-
ing, while they tell the hand of death is upon them ; but the
figure is execrable in its proportions, the hand and arm
being quite as large as the leg and foot of the man, if not
larger. The inscription is as follows : —
" No warning given ! unceremonious fate !
A sudden rush from life's meridian joys !
A wrench from all she loved."*
Sacred to the memory
. of
Eliza Musgrave,
Wife of William Musgrave, Esq.,
Of the Inner Temple, barrister-at-law.
She departed this life
On the morning of the 12th Feb., 1815,
Aged 24 years,
Beloved and lamented by all who knew her.
Her God she reverenced ;
Towards her neighbours she never wilfully offended ;
To her husband she was everything
His fondest wishes could picture or embrace.
He idolized her while she lived,
And his respect for her exalted worth
Survives beyond the grave.
The remembrance of her many virtues
Remains indelibly inscribed
In his dejected bosom.
" Friends, our chief treasure, how they drop !
How the world mils to pieces round about us!
And leaves us in the rum of our joy !
What says this transportation of my friends ?
It bids me love the place where now they dwell,
And scorn this wretched spot it leaves so poor."f
The aisles of the church are paved with a coarse species
of marble, laid down in alternate diamonds of black and
white. The chancel is raised by two steps, and has a stone
pavement. The body of the church contains 152 pews, but
with the assistance of the galleries, of which there are three,
affords about 1800 sittings. The governor's pew is very
neatly fitted up with crimson damask, and contains some
gaily coloured ottomans ; over the pew are the royal arms
of England. Service is performed in the church on Sun-
* Slightly altered from Young's " Night Thoughts."
t Young's " Night Thoughts* Night 7th.
JOHN DELAP HALLIDAY, E8Q. 229
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays ; and our exemplary rector,
with true Christian indefatigability, administers the sacra-
ment monthly, at eight in the morning, and after the usual
morning service.
The organ with which the church is furnished, was
erected (partly by subscription) in 1760, at the cost of 450/.
sterling, the vestry making up what was wanting. It is still
a very fine instrument, and our talented and respected
organist, G. Hart, Esq., fully recompenses us for any defects
it may labour under by his inimitable execution.*
At the west end of the nave rises a plain quadrangular
tower, surmounted by an octagonal cupola. The elevation
to the apex of the cupola is sixty-five feet ; the altitude of
the tower itself is fifty feet. This tower was not erected
until 1789, some years after the parent chiirch, but from
being constructed of the same materials, presents a uniform
appearance ; the cupola is built of wood, the perpendicular
compartments being jalousied. John Delap Halliday, Esq.
gave 500/. towards its erection.*)-
Within these last few months, two windows have been
pierced at the east side of the tower, in the small chamber
where the works of the clock are placed. These were made
at the suggestion of Mr. Jones, the keeper of the clock, and
which prove very beneficial to him when inspecting and
cleaning that necessary appurtenance. Before that period
this chamber was perfectly dark, which not only ren-
dered the air within it extremely damp, but presented an
* To the organ is attached a choir, composed of the boys and girls
from the parochial school.
f From this John Delap Halliday descends the present Admiral Tolle-
mache — viz. —
Lionel Tollemache, 3rd Earl of Dysert, born June, 1708; married
Grace, eldest daughter of John Earl of Granville, by whom he had
(among other issue) a daughter, Jane, married, 1770, John Delap Halli-
day, of the Leasowes, county of Salop, and of Antigua, Esq., by -whom
she had issue, l John Halliday, Admiral R.N., and who has assumed the
name of Tollemache, and who married Elizabeth, second daughter of
John, 3rd Earl of Aldborough, by whom he has, among other children,
Elizabeth, the present Countess of Cardigan ; and n. Charlotte, married
Henry, fourth son of 6th Sir William Wolseley, of Wolseley, county
Stafford.
230 THE CHURCHYARD.
obstacle to the due regulation of the instrument contained
in it ; for candles are but a sorry substitute for the clear
light of day when employed in such delicate business as rec-
tifying the machinery of a horologe. Under the care of
Mr. Jones the works are kept beautifully clean, which of
course will produce a good effect. This instrument was the
gift of John Delap H alii day, (as may be seen by the inscrip-
tion upon the works,) of Antigua, and the maker of it
Charles Penton, London, 1788. The windows are glazed,
and present exactly the same appearance as those to be
found in the suburban dwelling-houses around that mighty
metropolis, London.
The tower contains two bells ; the tenor one inscribed —
4< Edmund Powell, Golden Grove, 1684," and was kept for
the use of the coloured classes in other days. The large bell
was presented to the church by John Delap, (before he as-
sumed the name of Halliday,) Esq., 1788. It bore the fol-
lowing inscription : — " The gift of John Delap, Esq. The
Rev. James Lindsey, rector ; Thomas Hanson Halloran,
and Daniel Hill, churchwardens. Charles Penton, London,
fecit. John Warner, founder, of London, 1788." It was
taken down the 11th of February, 1840, on account of a
serious injury beyond repair, shipped for London on board
the u Antigua Packet," and exchanged for a new one of the
same size, which now serves to call the people to church,
and to speak the demise of the inhabitants ; but it is silent at
a wedding, for in this country no merry peal of bells an-
nounces that event which elsewhere is ever the signal for
joy and festivity.
Having attempted the description of the church, I will
now proceed to mention the churchyard, which lies upon a
gentle slope, and contains numerous tombs, with their iron
or wooden railings. The most beautiful tomb in the ground
was erected to the memory of the Honourable Otto Baijer,
by his widow, who afterwards died on her passage to Eng-
land in 1726. Her remains were brought back to Antigua,
and now repose by the side of her loved husband. It is of
TOMB OF MAJOR-GEN. G. W. RAMSEY. 231
pure white marble, although stained by exposure to the
weather, and is elegantly ornamented with various fruits and
flowers in basso-relievo.
The oldest sepulchral monuments, of which I could make
out the inscriptions, are to the memory of Troughton, 1704 ;
Col. Philip Lee. 1704;* Capt. Bastien Baijer, 1715; Thos.
Oasterman, Esq., 1724; Frederic Cope, 1739; and Mrs.
Warner, the wife of Ash ton Warner, Esq., 1748.
The inscription upon the tomb of Frederic Cope demands,
however, further mention. It is an acrostic ; the poetry I
leave to the judgment of my readers.
THE INSCRIPTION.
" F ar removed from every human eye he is,
R egardless now of earth, partakes of heaven's bliss ;
E xalted was his lively soul whilst here below,
D elighted ever tender friendships for to show ;
E asy and cheerful through every scene of Life ;
R eady to forgive all ; but unto me, his wife,
I ndulgent to the last degree, for ever kind —
C aim was his spirit, virtuous was his mind.
C areful he ever was to take no bribe in Law ;
O h 1 full, full well the abject hate of mortals saw.
P artial he never was, just to each man's fame,
E ach initial letter will now declare his name."
He was born in London, of honest parents, on the 21st day of May,
1711, and died, in Antigua, on the 8th , 1739.
A fine large marble tomb, to the memory of the Honour-
able Ashton Warner, who died 11th of February, 1762,
stands near to this very original sepulchral acrostic ; and at
no great distance a single stone to the memory of some
admiral (the inscription obliterated) with its anchors and
flags, and escutcheons.
On the east side of the north vestibule stands the tomb of
Major-general George W. Ramsey, governor-in-chief of
Antigua, Monserrat, and Barbados, in 1816, who departed
this life, November 1st, 1819, in the 58th year of his age.
* The gentleman who presented the pair of silver candlesticks for the
communion table. He was an Irishman by birth and education ; but
after having served in the wars in Flanders, he emigrated to Antigua,
and became Speaker of the House of Assembly in that island in 1702.
232 TOMB OF PATRICK KIRWAN.
The iron railing has become rusted and bent,* and the tomb
bears many a blackened mark.
Near to the last resting-place of governor Ramsey, stands
another very handsome tomb of white marble, erected to
that well-known and eccentric character, Patrick -Kirwan.
He was a native of Galway, and as true an Irishman as ever
handled a shillelah, or vowed devotion to " the shamrock
so green." Mr. Kirwan resided in Antigua for many years,
as a planter and proprietor of estates, where his " bulls and
blunders" are still remembered and repeated with delight.
Upon one occasion he sent for a sun-dial from England,
which he intended to have erected near his dwelling ; but
upon its arrival, it looked so smart with its golden rays and
gnomen, that " Pat" pronounced it the very height of pro-
fanation to have such a pretty " cratur" exposed to the re-
lentless shafts of master Sol ; and so to preserve its beauty,
and keep all secure, he had a tight snug shed built over it,
which eventually forbid the entrance of any straggling sun-
beam which might feel inclined to call upon it, to learn the
hour. Poor Mr. Kirwan 1 his Irish blood was always lead-
ing him to commit blunders, which were sure to raise a laugh
at his expense. During a partial rebellion of the negroes,
at a period when he was manager of an estate, a few miles
from the capital, he one morning presented himself before
the proprietor with a very flushed face, and excited mien —
u Good morning, Mr. Kirwan," said his employer. " What
brings you to town so suddenly — you look alarmed, I hope no-
thing is the matter ?" « Faith, an there is though! " retorted
the Irishman, " and if the blessed St. Patrick himself had
been here, he would have looked alarmed too. Why, there's
a perfect resurrection of the negroes upon your estate !" " A
what ?" inquired the surprised proprietor. " A perfect re-
surrection," repeated Pat, " and I have come to ask you what
I must do ?" His employer could scarcely repress a smile at
this strange intelligence. At length, however, he summoned
gravity enough to reply, " If that's the case, Mr. Kirwan,
* It is said to have been done by lightning.
MONUMENT TO JAMES CULLKN. 233
the best advice I can give you is, to put a hoe into their
hands as fast as they rise, and set them to work immediately."
But with all his << bulls and blunders" Mr. Kirwan was
deservedly respected, and his death universally regretted.
He died in 1819, in the 66th year of his age. The inscrip-
tion upon his monument informs us " By his direction this
tomb was erected."
At the entrance of the east gate is a mural stone monu-
ment, erected to the memory of James Cullen, by his brother
Robert Cullen. This monument is pointed out to strangers
on account of the peculiarity of its form, with the assertion
that the person who built the church is buried there, and
that the coffin is obliged to stand in a perpendicular position.
This, however, is not correct ; the monument certainly
stands there, but the place where the body is entombed is
23 feet further to the west ; and instead of being raised to the
memory of the architect of the church, that individual
erected it to perpetuate the memory of his brother. This
fact is engraven upon the monument ; but so unexploring
are the Antiguans in general, that I think but few of the
inhabitants are aware of the real truth, but still think the
coffin stands upright.
This strange practice of putting up the grave-stone at a
distance from the grave is not the only instance of the kind
to be met in the churchyard of St. John's. At one of the
west gates lies a stone slab, to the memory of the late
organist ; and upon reading the inscription, I supposed that
the body reposed beneath. But not so : that lies far away,
with " not a stone to mark the place." Upon asking a pew-
opener the reason for placing the slab in that situation, his
reply was, " It does so nicely, you know, for the people to
walk on, and looks well."
The churchyard is entered by five iron gates, of handsome
patterns. At the north, a flight of stone steps leads up to
the church, while from the south gate, the building is ap-
proached by an easy and gradual ascent, paved with brick.
The pillars of the south gate are surmounted by stone
234 ADAM AND EVE.
figures, representing St. John the Baptist, and St. John the
Evangelist. These figures were intended to receive the
vows of the good catholics at Dominica ; but as it happened
to be war time, when they took their departure from " la
belle France, 1 ' on their passage they fell in with an English
man-of-war, who most unceremoniously took them into
keeping, and brought them to Antigua ; where, by universal
consent, they were placed as sentinels in their present posi-
tion, instead of being decked out in gold and silver leaf, and
mock jewels. The negroes, however, refuse to recognise
them by their own titles, but have unanimously dubbed them
" Adam and Eve" — the Baptist, I suppose, playing the part
of the lady, as his garments are longer and more voluminous
than those of his companion.
CHAPTER XX.
Court-house — Bazaar — Arsenal — Police-office — Government-house
— Barracks— House of correction — Gaol — Methodist chapel — Me-
thodism, its rise and progress in Antigua — Moravian chapel — Rise
and progress of the society of United Brethren — Scotch kirk.
After the church and churchyard of St. John's, the next
public building which calls for attention is the court house.
This, as before stated, was erected in 1747, William Lowry
being the mason, and Duncan Grant the carpenter. Who
these worthies were I know not ; but a glance at the court
house proves they were efficient workmen. In order to raise
funds to defray the expenses of its erection, the legislature
obtained a loan of 746/. 12s. 4±d. currency, from the exe-
cutors of Samuel and Thomas Watkins ; and Jonas Lang-
ford (a proprietor of Antigua, and whose estates still go
by his name) lent 1253/. 7s. 7|rf. currency, which debts
were to be paid off by levying a tax of 2*. 6d. per head
upon all slaves in the island for six years.
The place where it stands was originally the market ; but
that site being the one most approved of for the erection of a
THE COURT HOUSE. 235
public building, the market was removed to a street nearly
facing it, where it has since been held.
The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West
India colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted
streets of London. The plan of the structure is very uniform
and neat. It is built of a fine-grained freestone, the pro-
duce of some of the small islands already described, which
was furnished by contract for the purpose by Mr. Robert
Bannister, a former planter of Antigua.
The principal entrance (to the south) is approached by
iron gates ; and after crossing a small court-yard paved with
large flag-stones, you enter a small corridor, supported by
circular stone columns, with plain capitals. At each end of
this corridor, a flight of stairs leads to the upper apartments
in the east and west wings, the one appropriated to the use
of his excellency the governor, when he retires for the pur-
pose of preparing his speech ; the other to the clerk of the
assembly ; below are the marshal's office, and the office of
the colonial secretary.
The ground-floor of the main building comprises one large
room, extending the whole length and breadth of the edifice.
The east end being fitted up for the sittings of all courts of
justice, has its bench for the judges, covered with crimson,
and a chair for the governor (when present), over which are
the national arms, where the " lion" grins with approved
ferocity, and the " unicorn" shews its golden hoofs. Around
a huge circular table, which might have feasted " king
Arthur" and his gallant " knights," even better than the
stone one which is shewn as having answered for that pur-
pose, are placed the sittings for the barristers, attorney-
general, solicitor-general, and benches for the grand and
petty juries. Exactly opposite the seat of the solicitor-
general, a ready pen has scrawled upon the table a striking
likeness of " his satanic majesty/' I hope his aid was not
necessary in that part of Astrea's court, at the time his
lineaments were portrayed ! This part of the interior is
enclosed within a semi-circular mahogany railing. At the
236 THE COURT HOUSE.
lower or west end of the apartment are congregated all the
canaille — the very riff-raff of the town — who flock to hear
speeches they understand as much as a Greek syllogism ; the
respectable spectators are admitted within the enclosure.
The barristers plead in gowns, but not in wigs, very much
to their comfort I should apprehend, in this warm climate.
The upper floor of the court house is divided into two
apartments by wooden partitions, leaving a lobby between ;
but these can be removed at pleasure, making the whole one
room, as on the ground-floor. The east apartment is appro-
priated to the governor and council, when sitting ; at other
times for the use of the grand jury, or petty juries in criminal
causes. A long table covered with u green cloth" runs
across the room, and around which are placed very hand-
some chairs, of unique patterns, (oak, with cane backs, and
green morocco seats and elbows,) the one destined for the
use of the governor being of larger dimensions, and having
the arms of England painted upon it.
The west room is used for the meeting of the house of
assembly, and is furnished in the same manner as the other
apartment, only that under the royal arms (which are attached
to the north side of the room) is a kind of rostrum, furnished
with its proper seat, and intended for the accommodation of
the speaker of the house of assembly.
On returning by the west flight of stairs, my eyes were
directed to a padlock in the wall, which formerly secured
the ladder made use of at executions ; but happy am I to
say, such scenes are now of very rare occurrence in this
island.
I should have observed, that balls and dinners are some-
times held at the court house ; as well as Bible and mission-
ary meetings; and also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The
last fancy fair, or rather bazaar, held there by the Church-
of- England Association, was a very crowded affair. It took
place on the day after Christmas-day, a day of all others
devoted by the Antiguans to a display of dress. Not only
all kinds of fancy and ornamental articles, fabricated by the
THE GAOL. 237
fair hands of the Antiguan ladies were to be found there,
but what pleased some part of the company much better, a
well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets and guinea-
birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of tarts
and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group
that frequented the court house that day : Iris would have
found herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have
taken a new lesson. In one part of the room might be seen
a member of the council, with his lady hanging upon his
arm, and next to him a black labourer with his lady 9 in the
same position ; the latter couple making, in many instances,
a far greater show than their aristocratic neighbours.* The
military band was stationed in the lower apartment, and
played during the day the most fashionable and favourite
airs. The profits arising from this sale were appropriated
to the purposes of assisting to defray the expenses of the new
public cistern lately erected.
Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal,
erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a
strong building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron
railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house,
erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George
Thomas. It is a plain building, with two projecting
wings; but it is now very much out of repair, not being
used for any purpose. Adjoining the guard-house is a long
stone building, with its grated windows, formerly used as the
gaol of the island, but within these last few years turned into
the police office, — the goal being removed to the suburbs of
St. John's. This is a very great improvement ; for this
building, standing in one of the greatest thoroughfares of this
populous town, and directly facing the market, the culprits
who were immured for petty crimes, and kept in that part of
the gaol, could look through their grated windows, hold con-
verse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate their evil
* This social assemblage of " white" and " black" is one of the good
effects of emancipation. Some years ago this dark-skinned race would
have been kept from within the precincts of the walls by the point of a
bayonet, as it was the custom on similar occasions to have a guard.
238 GOVERNMENT HOU8E.
counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes, who
were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where
the felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed,
and ran along the outer walls of the prison. One of these
dungeons has been lately made into an engine-house, a door
being broken through its massy walls facing the street.
Upon passing this vault during its transformation, a sigh
broke from my lips as memory carried me back to those
fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who bore the
name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them, and
often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I fan-
cied I could behold them in all their misery, — their bodies,
perhaps, wasted with disease, — their eyes blood-shot and wild
with despair, — their features sharpened by anguish of mind :
— no one to soothe their grief, — no one to hear their com-
plaint, — and without the hope, but not perhaps without the
fear, of an hereafter, they left those cheerless vaults to be
launched into eternity by the hangman's hands ! The pic-
ture was too dreadful ; but sounds of laughter and gladness
were abroad, our carriage rolled on amid crowds of blacks
of every sex and age ; and although at times I suffer, as many
others do, from their impudence of manners and behaviour,
yet I felt in my heart a pleasure at their being free. The
present building was erected in 1772, the former gaol having
been burnt to the ground in the great fire of 1769.
The next edifice worthy of notice is government house.
It is situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs,
and embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open
windows as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable
from any dwelling in the capital. Although possessing
nothing very grand in its exterior, or internal arrangements,
no marble pillars or lofty arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel
West Indian residence, possessing some good apartments,
and having its stabling and other out-buildings upon a re-
spectable scale. During the period his excellency is re-
siding in the capital, the " Union Jack" floats from the top
of the flag-staff, opposite government house ; and then all
\
THE CUSTOM HOUSE. 239
loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and beautiful
queen's representative.
The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was
destroyed in the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable
edifice, and well suited to the purpose. The building now
used in its stead is hired at the annual rent of 100/. sterling.
The treasurer's and registrar's offices are also private pro-
perty, for which a moderate rent is given.*
From the custom house, I proceed to mention the
barracks, very delightfully situated in a kind of open heath,
to the east of the town. These consisted of two distinct
buildings a few paces from each other ; but the north wing .
of the lower one becoming dismantled and ruinous, it was
resolved in 1831 to repair it, and appropriate it to the use
of a gaol, instead of the building already described in the
vicinity of the court house.
In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate
inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are fur-
nished with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but
no clothing or bedding is allowed, unless by order of the
medical man attending them. The females are separated
from the men, and the debtors from the felons ; although in
former years they all used to herd together.
Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the ex-
cellent rector of St. John's, has voluntarily visited the prison
every Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to
read prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates ;
and in all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the
laws of humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the
penalty of his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with
his message of mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften
their stony hearts ; to lead them to that only fountain capable
of washing away their deadly sins, and finally accompanied
them to the last sad scene of their mortal career.
* The dates of papers in most of these offices commence from 1668,
after Antigua was restored by the French, and Lord W. Willoughby
settled in the government by his majesty Charles the Second.
240 EBENEZER CHAPEL.
One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction,
and the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking
stones, or, under the surveillance of an officer, in working
in the roads, or assisting in any other public works. A
treadmill was sent for from England some time ago, but
after costing the country a large sum, strange to say, no use
is made of it. A shed is built over it, and there it remains
quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely to do so to the end of
its existence. The reason for not using this machine, how-
ever, is said to be on account of the power required to work
it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of a large gang ;
and although the house of correction is generally crowded
with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient num-
ber of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar
punishment, to set the treadmill going.
The north end of the building is appropriated to the use
of the officers of her majesty's troops, stationed for the time
in the island ; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a
prison, must, I should think, be a very pleasant domicile.
The privates are quartered at the other barracks, further to
the east ; and beneath the shade of a large tree growing
near, their red -faced wives may be seen busily employed in
washing their habiliments, while their sun -burnt children
scramble about and chase the butterflies, who, gorgeous in
colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring pond.
The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer
Chapel, belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-
stone of this edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas
Nugent (then speaker of the house of assembly, but who now
resides in England as the colonial agent) in 1837. A religious
service was first held in the old chapel, and then, forming
into a procession, consisting of ministers of the different
sects in Antigua, some of the aristocrats of the island, the
leading members of the Methodists, and the scholars of their
Sunday-schools, they marched to the spot appointed for the
erection of their new place of worship. A bottle containing
the customary inscription was placed in the cavity the stone
METHODISM. 241
lowered to its proper situation, the three blows of the mallet
struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was over.
It is a spacious building, the front being constructed of
free-stone, the gift of the Honourable and Rev. Nathaniel
Gilbert. It is pierced with two tiers of windows ; the upper
ones arched and of larger size than the lower tier, which
are very disproportioned to the extent of the edifice — a cir-
cumstance which tends to render it warmer than it other-
wise would be. The ground-floor is appropriated to the
use of the infant and Sunday schools, as also their " tea-
parties," held for charitable purposes ; above is the chapel,
which is approached by an outward flight of stone steps.
The interior is fitted up in the usual plain style ; but boasts
a smart display of blue and white paint.
The pulpit, painted to represent oak, is an irregular
octagon, supported by four fluted columns, and covered
with purple drapery, bordered with yellow fringe, instead
of gold ; below is the reading desk. The pulpit is so lofty,
which renders it inconvenient for such of the congregation as
occupy the body of the chapel to follow the movements of
the officiating minister. The galleries run round all sides,
and are supported by plain cast-iron pillars, bearing each
its neat-looking lamp. The last gallery is exclusively ap-
propriated to the use of the children of the Females' Friend
Society and the Sunday-school scholars ; and here, also, is
placed the seraphine belonging to the chapel, which serves
to lead the vocal part of the service. Altogether, the chapel
is an excellent building, superior to anything of the kind
I have seen in the West Indies, and makes a good and com-
manding outward appearance, particularly when lighted up
of an evening ; but to my eye it looks more like reading
rooms, or a philosophical institution, than a place of wor-
ship.
Methodism was first established in Antigua in 1760, by
the Honourable Nathaniel Gilbert, speaker of the house
of assembly. In 1758, Mr. Gilbert visited England,
carrying with him some of his negro servants ; and during
VOL. I. M
242 THE REV. JOHN WESLEY.
his stay there, he formed an acquaintance with the Rev. John
Wesley, the venerable founder of Methodism, who baptized
two of the negroes. Upon Mr. Gilbert's return to Antigua,
he signified to those individuals who resided near him, that
he should feel happy in meeting them at his house on certain
evenings, when he would expound the word of God to them,
and endeavour to enlighten their minds upon religious sub-
jects. This invitation was eagerly accepted by many of the
negroes and coloured people, and Mr. Gilbert was led to
increase his views, and form a regular organized society,
which in a short time amounted to two hundred members.
This- proceeding of Mr. Gilbert produced the greatest
astonishment among the inhabitants of Antigua. A man in
his rank of life to herd with negro slaves, and their coloured
'offspring, who, although perhaps they might be free, bore
about with them the marks of their despised race !— oh !
wondrous ! incomprehensible ! — the man must be mad,
thought they. But when he, unmindful of their censure,
proceeded in his acts of love towards these poor outcasts
from the pale of society, their wonder knew no bounds ;
their feelings took another turn, and what at first was sur-
prise, gave way to reproach and contempt. Mr. Gilbert,
however, was not to be moved by what mankind said of
him ; he knew the consequence before he commenced his
labours ; and reckless of scorn or reprehension, he steadily
pursued the path he had chalked out, knowing full well in
whom he trusted. Thus he proceeded, until death called
him from this world, and summoned him to reap his reward
in heaven ; when, strong in faith, he left his infant society
without a shepherd to watch over its welfare.
Mr. Gilbert derived his origin from a family of considerable
distinction in the west of England, where one of its mem-
bers — Sir Humphery Gilbert — associating himself with his
kinsman, the celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh, became one of
fhe most eminent circumnavigators of the reign of Queen
Elizabeth. Dying, he left a son, Raleigh Gilbert, Esq., who,
among other individuals, obtained from King James I. a
THE GILBERTS OF ANTIGUA. 243
large grant, in what was then termed Plymouth — the founda-
tion of the afterwards glorious colony of Virginia, in North
America — and where, in 1606, he emigrated, along with the
Lord Chief Justice Popham ; George Popham, Esq. (his
son); William Parker, Esq.; and Thomas Stanham, Esq.
Soon after this period, we find Raleigh Gilbert, under the
title of Captain Gilbert, in command of a vessel manned
with 100 men, and provided with ordnance, stores, and pro-
visions, sufficient for the establishment of a plantation, which
he (in conjunction with Captain Popham, a joint patentee,
and in command of another vessel, similarly provided) began
on the banks of the river " Sagadock," in the year 1608, and
where they erected a fort, called Sir George's. Captain
Popham, his zealous coadjutor, having died in this place,
Captain Gilbert returned to England, where he took posses-
sion of an estate, fallen to him by the death of his elder
brother, Sir John Gilbert, President of the Virginian Com-
pany. Another member of this family, we find, about the
same time, leader of an abortive expedition to form a settle-
ment upon the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake, in Vir-
ginia, and who, it appears, was well acquainted with those
several islands which now form the Leeward Caribbee go-
vernment. The following extract is taken from a work
published in 1741 (second edition): —
" In the same year, Captain Gilbert, in the ' Elizabeth/ of London,
made a voyage to Virginia, but not with the like success. He traded
with the savages in the Charibbe Islands — viz., St Lucia, Dominica,
Nevis, St Christopher's, &c., and thence proceeded to the Bay of Chesa-
peake, in Virginia, being the first that sailed up it, and landed there.
The Indians set upon him and his company in the woods, and Captain
Gilbert and four or five of his men were killed by their arrows, upon
which his crew returned home."
We cannot undertake to say from which particular mem-
ber of this distinguished family the Gilberts of Antigua
sprang, but they were among its earliest settlers, and consti-
tuted some of the greatest ornaments of the colony, in which
for so many years they have been proprietors. The present
m2
244 MR. JOHN BAGSTER.
most noble Marquis of Northampton, President of the Royal
Society, descends, in a female line, from this family. His
mother, the late marchioness, (married, August 18, 1787, to
Charles, late Earl and Marquis of Northampton, and died,
March, 1843,) being the daughter of a Miss Gilbert, (daugh-
ter of Nathaniel Gilbert, of Gilberts, Antigua, Esq., grand-
father of the present Honourable and Reverend N. Gilbert,)
by her husband, Joshua Smith, of East Stoke Park, co. of
Wilts, Esq.
But to return to Methodism. Unpromising as the state of
this little society might seem, the good seed already sown
was not destined to perish. The Great Shepherd cared for it ;
and when least expected, raised another pastor in the person
of a Mr. John Baxter, a native of England. Mr. Baxter was
a man who moved in humble life, and who worked in the
capacity of shipwright, in Chatham Dockyard ; but he was
justly esteemed by all who knew him, a pattern to the society
to which he belonged, and a highly-respected leader among
Mr. Wesley's sect. In 1777, a proposal was made him by
some of the directors of the Chatham Dockyard, to sail for
Antigua, and work as foreman of the calkers in the naval
establishment of that island. To this Mr. Baxter assented ;
but not so his friends: they made use of every argument in
their power to make him forego his purpose — representing,
in the most glowing colours, the distance he would be from
all he loved ; the dangers of the ocean, over which he must
pass ; and the difference, perhaps insalubrity, of climate he
would have to contend with. But all without avail ; he felt
an unconquerable desire to visit that portion of the globe, and
accordingly, bidding his friends farewell, he left England,
and arrived in Antigua on the 2nd of April, 1778.
As might be expected, he found the infant Methodist So-
ciety in a very languishing state. Upon hearing of his
arrival, and of his being a member of the same sect as their
beloved benefactor, the little band waited upon him, and
after welcoming him to their shores, begged him to tell Mr.
Wesley he had many children in Antigua whom he had never
FRAUD OP AN IRI8H CAPTAIN. 245
seen, but who were earnestly desirous of his aid. On the
following Sabbath, Mr. Baxter met them in the services of
religion, and from that day constituted himself their pastor ;
which office he performed until his death, assembling them
together on Sundays, and performing the full service, as in
England, and on the other week-days, after his labours in the
dockyard were over, visiting the different estates, and teach-
ing the poor slaves the road to salvation.
His exertions were greatly blessed ; and by the following
year, 1779, six hundred negroes were joined to the congre-
gation. He now contemplated the erection of a chapel, and
for that purpose instituted collections among his people, and
adopted every other consistent method to acquire funds to
carry out his plans.
Mr. Baxter's situation was productive of great discomfort
to himself; his duties to be performed in the naval-yard
were very laborious; and after a long day's work, his even-
ings were spent in travelling from plantation to plantation,
the harbinger of Gospel news. He had no one to assist him
in his self-appointed task, but for some years laboured on
alone. In 1782, he mentions in a letter to a friend, " There
is no white person in the congregation but myself. At St.
John's, thirty coloured persons receive the Lord's Supper."
Assistance, however, was not so far off as he supposed.
About this time an Irish family (who were all members of
Mr. Wesley's sect) were persuaded by an unprincipled cap-
tain of a trading vessel, to sell all their little property, and
emigrate with him to America. Deceived by his plausible
manners and fair speeches, they acquiesced in his proposals ;
and turning all their goods into money, the whole family,
consisting of an elderly father and mother, a son, and some
daughters, embarked on board his vessel, and sought with
him their better fortune in a far-off land. But their false
friend having inveigled them into his power, under various
pretences, robbed them of their little all, and then deserted
them, in a strange country. After suffering many and bitter
privations, they found their way to Antigua, where they
eventually became valuable assistants to Mr. Baxter.
246 DR. COKE.
In the meantime, Mr. Baxter's great object, the erection
of a Methodist chapel in St. John's, was rapidly being accom-
plished; and on the 8th of November, 1783, that worthy
man, with an overflowing heart* had the happiness of preach-
ing his first sermon in it, to a full and serious audience. In
the space of the three following years, the society increased
to 2000 persons.
In 1786, Dr. Coke, the Wesleyan missionary and his-
torian, left England, for the purpose of spreading gospel
tidings in America. Meeting, however, with violent gales,
the ship in which he took passage was unable to make her
destined port; and after encountering a series of disasters,
as a last and only resort, was obliged to put into Antigua,
in distress. Dr. Coke was delighted to find the Wesleyan
society in that island in so satisfactory a state — a circum-
stance he was unprepared for ; and in his letters to England,
expresses in warm terms his pleasure upon the subject.
The first conference was held at Antigua, ia the year 1787 ;
but the annual conferences, or district meetings, were not esta-
blished until 1793, when, on the returns being made, the society
was found to consist of 6570 members ; out of which there were
36 white, and 105 coloured persons. Although the Metho-
dist society had progressed so far, and embraced so many
members, yet its proceedings were reviled and insulted by
the greater part of the white inhabitants. All kinds of petty
insults were heaped upon its pastors ; while their place of
worship was made the scene of vulgar waggeries and ribald
jests. One favourite amusement with many of the young
men of that period was, to procure a live goat, and after
hampering its legs, fling it into the midst of the assembly,
while engaged at their devotion at the Methodist chapel. At
other times, in order to vary the sport, the goat was secured
against the chapel door; and as the minister pronounced
the amen, or the members raised their hymns of praise to
God, the poor animal was beat and kicked until it joined in
chorus with its deep and unharmonious cries, which were
received with bursts of applauding laughter by its foolish
captors.
JOHN BOTT. 247
Mr. Baxter, although a very good man, was not, I have
understood, possessed of very superior talents ; and accord-
ingly, many of his discourses produced much merriment
among that class of persons who frequented his chapel for
the sake of passing criticisms, as well as killing time. He
had a favourite servant living with him, whose name was
John Bott, and who attended to the lighting up of the chapel,
as well as performing his home duties. Upon one occasion,
John neglected to snuff the candles ; an omission which
caused his master so much uneasiness, that, after endea-
vouring in vain to read the portion of Scripture selected, he
was fain to interrupt himself in the midst of a passage —
" And Nathan said unto David — John Bott, snuff the
candles!" This intervention, as may be supposed, caused
a tumult of laughter; nor (said an ear- witness) could his
own people restrain their risible faculties. But to return.
About 1793, Dr. Coke paid Antigua another visit, and
preached upon many plantations; one of which was Sir
George Thomas's, at North Sound. The old chapel at
Parham was erected in 1802; the returns of the society
made that year were, 4000 persons.
The year 1805 was marked by the Methodists as that in
which their friend and pastor, Mr. John Baxter, closed his
mortal career, after a well-spent life^— twenty-seven years of
which he passed in Antigua.* He died November the 13th,
1805, and was interred in the churchyard of St. John's ;
but if any stone marked the place of burial, time has obli-
terated the inscription, or else shattered the tomb. The
visitor may look in vain for such a memento. It appears
strange to me, that the Wesley ans of Antigua have never
erected monuments to the memories of Mr. Gilbert and
Mr. Baxter. I am sure there are members enough to do
this ; and it would be but paying a proper tribute of respect
* Mr. Baxter gave up his situation in the dock-yard after the erection
of the chapel in St. John's, and removed to a small house erected in the
chapel-yard, and continued to fill the office of the established minister
until his death.
^
248 MORAVIAN SETTLEMENT.
to the memories of those excellent men, and founders of that
sect in this island. Perhaps, they may take the hint, and
allow the walls of their handsome chapel to be graced with
two neat marble tablets devoted to that purpose.
But to proceed. Since Mr. Baxter's death, the Wesley an
society has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but
in all the other West India Islands, although Antigua is still
looked upon as the parent church ; and in 1842, the society
in that island consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the
chapel in St. John's, they have places of worship at Parham,
English Harbour, Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere.
Thus, from a small beginning — from a few black slaves
gathered together by night beneath the roof of a white man
— this society has spread far and wide, like some huge wave,
until now it boasts a vast increase of number, of every variety
of shade, from the ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty
offspring of Afric's soil. Great success has attended the
preaching of this sect ; and although an episcopalian myself,
and consequently more attached to that form of worship, I
cannot let the opportunity pass me without offering my mite
of praise to the character of their undaunted and fervent
ministers, tendering my hearty wishes for their further pro-
gress, and, at the same time, expressing my firm belief that
they have, through God, been the means of preventing much
crime, and saving many, very many, from the fearful retri-
bution, the inevitable attendant on a misspent life.
From this view of the Methodist Chapel and Methodism,
I proceed to mention the Moravian settlement. The
Moravians, or rather, " United Brethren," as many of my
readers may be aware, revived under the celebrated Count
Zinzendorf, a native of Germany, who, with some of his
ollowers, visited England in the reign of George II., and
formed several settlements of their sect in different parts of
that kingdom. They also established colonies in Greenland,
Labrador, and other parts of North America, and in South
America.
In J 731, Count Zinzendorf visited Denmark, for the pur-
MISSIONARIES. 249
pose of attending the coronation of Christian VI., who, by
the death of his father, was called to the throne of that
kingdom. During his residence at that court, some of his
domestics became acquainted with a negro, named Anthony,
from one of the Danish islands. This man related many
instances of the moral darkness in which the West Indies
were enveloped, and of the distressed state of the negroes ;
which being repeated to the count, he felt an invincible
desire to send missionaries to that part of the world, to pro-
claim the " tidings of great joy" to those poor benighted
negroes.
In 1732, this desire was carried into effect; and two mis-
sionaries were despatched from ' ( Hernhult," (the principal
Moravian station, in Lusatia, Germany,) to St. Thomas.
Other missionaries followed them ; and in 1733, they planted
their standard in St. Croix. In 1754, the society in London
sent missionaries to Jamaica, who were followed by some of
the brethren from America; and in 1756, Samuel Isles, a
true and exemplary Christian, came from St. Thomas, where
he had been residing as missionary for eight years, and esta-
blished the first Moravian settlement in Antigua.
Their labour of love was at first very slow In its progress ;
but they succeeded, in 1761, in raising a chapel, for the
accommodation of the negroes, on a spot of land, purchased
for the purpose, in St. John's. Still their society rather
decreased than flourished, until, about 1768, there were only
fourteen members in the church at St. John's. Disheartening
as these circumstances were, like true soldiers of the Cross,
they would not lay down their arms ; and at length, their
faith and patience met with their reward. A wonderful
revival took place, and in 1775 <' the number of their stated
hearers amounted to 2000 ; and never a month elapsed with-
out an addition to the church of ten or twenty by baptism."
By the year 1787, 5465 negroes were admitted into the
church. Their first settlement was situated at St. John's .
but in 1782, they had formed another at Grace Hill, or, as it
was first termed, Bailey Hill ; a delightful spot, about ten
m 3
250 SETTLEMENT AT ST. JOHN'S.
miles from the capital. The number baptized at St. John's,
in 1789, was 507 ; while at Grace Hill, 217 were admitted
into the church by that ceremony. By this time, five preachers
were settled in Antigua; and in the course of the two
following years, the society enrolled 7400 members. At
the present period, 1842, the number may be estimated at
11,000.
Their settlement at St. John's is situated in Spring Gardens,
at the extreme north end of the town, and looks the very
picture of neatness and domestic comfort. The present
chapel, erected in 1773, is a plain building — devoid of any
great architectural beauty, it is true, but interesting from its
very simplicity, and from being built by the negroes in times
of slavery. The rapid increase of their numbers, already
mentioned, rendered it necessary to provide a larger place
of worship ; which fact being mentioned to their negro con*
verts, they immediately commenced procuring some of the
materials, by each bringing a few stones with them, when
they came to their evening meetings in the week. Those of
them who were masons and carpenters worked with the
greatest energy " in their free hours, after their daily tasks
were done; and those who could not assist in the labour
provided victuals for the workmen." Since that period, the
chapel has had many enlargements and alterations made to
it. The dwellings of the preachers are gathered around it ;
and their neat, cheerful-looking burying-ground, in which
grows many a beautiful tree, bounds the settlement to the
east. Everything about them looks green, and fresh, and
lovely; and their wives, in their neat caps, and Quaker-like
style of dress, and the often very pretty, but quiet contour
of their features, appear in perfect harmony with the other
parts of the picture. I must say, 1 like the Moravians : they
seem to have so much open-heartedness about them — such
patriarchal simplicity of manners. Among themselves they
are ever kind and courteous, forming, as it were, one large
family of affectionate brothers and sisters. They have done
much good among the black race, for whose welfare the
NOVEL METHOD OP SINGING. 251
mission was particularly intended ; and many happy deaths
among them attest the truth. Besides their settlement in St.
John's, they have several in other parts of the island ; namely,
at Grace Hill, Grace Bay, Newfield, Cedar Hall, Lebanon,
Gracefield, and Five Islands.
Among their ministers, men of learning and talent may
be found. Their superintendent, the Rev. Mr. H , is a
great biblical scholar, possessed of superior faculties, and a
good nervous preacher ; but some of their missionaries, al-
though far from deficient in erudition, from being natives of
Germany, and not thoroughly acquainted with the English
language, are almost unintelligible to English ears. I cannot
say I admire the singing part of their service ; at a given
signal they all seem to dart off at the highest pitch of their
voices, and keep on without regard to time or melody.
However, I understand they have also a seraphine for the
use of their chapel, which may tend to modulate the dis-
cordant voices of their congregation.* I hope these last few
remarks may not be understood as unkind or sarcastic. Far
be it from me to scoff at any sect. True it is I note their
peculiarities ; but if founded on the conscientious belief of
the propriety of their own form of worship, I would not raise
a laugh at the fantastic movements of even the " Jumpers"
or the " Shakers" by any animadversions of mine.
The last and remaining edifice I have to mention, is the
half-finished kirk of the Scotchmen. The foundation-stone of
this place of worship was laid with the usual ceremonies by
Sir Wm. Colebrook, the late governor, on the 9th of April,
1839. It is situated upon an ascent on the eastern outskirts
of the town, and from it may be seen many a lovely land-
scape, which Claude Lorraine would not have scorned to
imitate. It progresses but slowly ; but still it has been known
for the tortoise to outrun the hare, and win the race, and
* This is a misinformation. There is no seraphine in the chapel, but
a small but very sweet-toned organ in the school-room. Upon a late
visit to the chapel, however, I find that the congregation is very much
improved in their style of singing.
252 MORNING.
therefore the Scotch kirk may yet exceed some of its
contemporaries. In its present form I ean say but little
about it, except that the same fault cannot be found with it
as there has been with the Methodist chapel — the small size
of the windows — for the Scotch kirk appears to be all
windows and doors. If, however, the Scotchman will make
haste and finish the building, I will promise to write all
about it ; in the meantime, as I have already made this
chapter of leviathan dimensions, I will make my courtesy,
and — exit for the night.
CHAPTER XXI.
Morning — Institutions — Daily Meal Society — Its rise and progress —
Lazaretto— Destitute Females' Friend Society — Its origin and pur-
pose — Friendly societies — Bible Society — Missionary associations —
Temperance Society — Juvenile Association — Ladies Clothing Society,
&c. — Banks — Library Society.
Another morning is come — a bright glorious morning : the
sky is as deeply blue as the breast of the kingfisher, except
where here and thereasnowy pyramid of clouds mounts slowly
up the heavens. Through the open windows of my apart-
ments, a rich flood of sunshine pours in, and plays upon the
floor in many a fanciful chequer. The bright red flowers of
the " Scarlet Cordia" hang in tasteful branches from among
their broad green leaves, and attract the attention of the
little humming-bird, who, in their changeful plumage, flit
around, and rob the flowers of their liquid sweets. The
breeze is as gentle as an infant's sigh, a dreamy stillness is
abroad, and — but what was that ? — rain, I declare ! A gloom
has silently and suddenly overspread the sky ; the late white-
robed clouds have become covered with a darkened hue ;
the wind has raised its pipe ; the rain conies pouring down,
and chases away my feathered favourites. I can write no
DAILY MEAL SOCIETY. 253
more of bright skies and glowing sunbeams, and therefore I
must proceed in my task, which the beauty of the morning
drove from my thoughts ; and having already attempted a
description of the buildings of St. John's, I shall now en-
deavour to give some account of its institutions.
The first to be placed upon the list, not from the number
of years it has been established, but from its extent, is the
Daily Meal Society, for information respecting which I am
indebted to the Rev. Robert Holberton. This society, in-
tended for the purpose of " supplying the sick and needy, of
St. John's and its neighbourhood with a daily meal," was
established in the year 1828, the management of its affairs
being " undertaken by a committee of seven gentlemen in
the town, (the present Speaker of the House of Assembly
being the treasurer ;) three of the clergy, (the Rev. Robt.
Holberton being the secretary;) and five of the medical
gentlemen/ 1 They hold their meetings in the churchwarden's
office, and on the 18th of June, 1828, a female superintendent
was appointed at a salary of 50/. currency per annum. A
" soup- house" was erected in the yard attached to the super-
intendent's dwelling to the east of the church, the land
being allowed to the society, free of rent, for the space of
seven years by the heirs of " Donovan's Estate." A ship's
boiler having been presented to the society, it was immedi-
ately put into requisition, and the first meal distributed the
2nd of August, 1828, to thirty -six persons.
Up to that time there was no parochial relief for any
black or coloured person ; and consequently, when the
establishment of such a society became known, the sick and
aged among those classes eagerly sought for shelter, and an
alleviation of their distresses. The medical gentlemen of
St. John's having offered to attend gratuitously, in monthly
rotation, the cry of these unfortunate people was responded
to; and five small houses, adjoining the "soup-house,"
having been first rented, and afterwards purchased by the
society, fourteen of these afflicted ones were received and
254 REV. MR. HOLBERTON.
succoured. Many a poor outcast found his throbbing heart
at rest when possessed of these humble accommodations ;
many a sufferer had his pains alleviated, and the oil of mercy
poured into his wounds. Five or six successful amputations
were also performed there during that early period.
The rise and progress of this institution is so interesting,
that I think I cannot do better than follow up the account
of it, in the words of the Rev. Mr. Holberton, published in
a u Brief Review :" " After the destructive hurricane of
1835, (when this society was found signally useful in furnish-
ing a comfortable meal daily to the houseless poor,) the un-
appropriated residue of a grant from the legislature, for
restoring some of the damaged houses of the poor of St.
John's, was handed over to the committee of the Daily
Meal Society, with the understanding that shelter should
be given to those whose houses were considered past repair-
ing. This testimony of public confidence, together with a
handsome private donation of 90/. sterling, occurring at the
very time when the land on which the institution had stood
for seven years was required by the owner, stimulated the
committee to attempt to re-establish it on a more extensive
scale."
Mr. Holberton proceeds to pass some high encomiums
upon the Very Rev. the Archdeacon Parry (late of Antigua)
for the great interest felt by him in the success of the
society — encomiums, no doubt, richly his due ; but the
rector was necessitated to forego mentioning what it is in
my power to do, that it was principally through his own kind
heart, and from his deep Christian principles, which led him
to exert every energy in its behalf, that the Daily Meal So-
ciety had its origin, and is in its present flourishing condition.
Mr. H. proceeds : " Chiefly at his" (the archdeacon's) " in-
stance, a successful application was made to the legislature for
a piece of land near the rectory, 300 feet long by 100 feet wide.
This was enclosed with strong palisades, and within were
erected a kitchen, or ' soup-house,' of stone, 30 feet long
LEPROSY. 255
and 1 5 wide, a wooden house, 60 feet by 20 feet, divided
into six apartments, capable of accommodating four persons
in each. A well was also dug 24 feet deep, and four of the
wooden houses which stood on the old site were transported
to the new one. The expense of effecting these objects
amounted to 1300/. currency, of which about 1000/. cur-
rency was raised by subscriptions. This establishment was
opened on 8th March, 1837, under the name of the Asylum,
and has been providentially raised up to meet, in the most
satisfactory manner, the various cases of distress that have
occurred since the general emancipation in 1834, and has
effectually done away with begging in the streets of St.
John's."
As leprosy is a frequent disease among the negroes, and,
from its contagious character, doubts had arisen upon the
propriety of admitting persons suffering from that dreadful
complaint into the asylum, it was determined in 1836 to
open a subscription list for the purpose of erecting another
building for their reception. That they might have the
benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing, the site chosen for it was
by the sea-side. This building was commenced in 1837,
and " although, from want of funds, scarcely one of the two
wings could be completed, admission was given to five
leprous persons on the 25th of April in that year.*' The
society, however, " was compelled to declare that, without
parochial allowances, the institution must fall to the ground.
The claim to such help was at once seen to be most reason-
able and highly needful, and the desired combination of
parochial with voluntary relief was speedily effected. The le-
gislature granting 600/. currency the following year, the debts
were paid off, and the building finished and publicly opened
under the title of the Lazaretto, on the 20th June, 1838."
The Lazaretto consists of " six rooms for females and six
for males, capable of accommodating three in each, besides
one small room for one person only. The enclosed yard
has been, for the most part, converted into plots for pro-
256 THE LAZARETTO.
visions, and for keeping poultry in. Some bamboos have
been planted, which will in time afford materials for making
baskets, about which one of the men is industriously em-
ployed, and by the sale of his work contrives to purchase
clothes for himself, at half-price, from the Ladies Clothing
Society. All the inmates appear thankful and contented,
and some have shewn a readiness to receive scriptural in*
struction that is very pleasing." Poor creatures ! some of
them are, indeed, objects for the deepest commiseration,
but their sufferings are alleviated as far as possible. Their
residence is a delightful situation ; the sea-breeze comes so
pure from off the bosom of the ocean, that one would sup-
pose disease must fly before it. From the farthest point of the
land runs a causeway over to Rat Island, (the promontory
already mentioned as being the site of one of the forts,)
made about the year 1748, and which is passable at ebb-
tide. Upon this promontory, which rises in the form of a
steep mount, a lunatic asylum has been built during the past
year, (1841,) the legislature having voted a sum for that
purpose, for the use of such inmates of the institution as
have shewn symptoms of aberration of mind.
In 1838, the legislature gave a further grant of 500/. cur-
rency to the society, for the purpose of erecting " a separate
ward for the male patients, with ten apartments capable of
accommodating four persons in each," in that part of the
establishment situated near the rectory, which was finished
and opened on the 15th July, 1839. An iron tank, capable
of holding 7000 gallons of water, has been imported from
England, and placed in the yard of the same portion of the
institution. In 1840, the title of the society was changed
from that of " The Asylum/' to " The Daily Meal Society's
Infirmary and Lazaretto/ 9 by which latter designat ion it is
now distinguished.
This establishment is, indeed, the only infirmary and
hospital in the island, (with the exception of the cast-iron hos-
pital at the Ridge, near English Harbour, for the use of the
troops ;) and not only the destitute poor of St. John's, but the
DAILY MEAL SOCIETY. 257
poor from all the other parishes are admitted into it, as well
as distressed and destitute sailors. The best medical attend-
ance is procured for them ; wine and other strengthening
nourishment administered to the sick ; and three wholesome
meals allowed to each individual per day. Bedsteads and
bedding are also supplied, there being " in the female ward
six, and in the male ward ten furnished apartments, ready
for the reception of patients at the shortest notice."
Nor are these the only accommodations this inestimable
charity affords to the poor and distressed of our species,
there being seven detached houses on the opposite side of
the inclosure, capable of containing two, three, or four per-
sons in each. " In these separate dwellings infirm persons
are distributed, whose complaints, habits, or tempers, render
it expedient that they should be kept by themselves. One
house, fronting the burial-ground, is reserved for the recep-
tion of the dead previous to interment, and is used for a dis-
secting room when required. Eighty inmates can be com-
fortably accommodated at the infirmary/ 9 The income
for the last year, (1841,) including subscriptions, donations,
legacies, and parochial relief, was 1361/. 0*. 4\d. currency,
the expenditure, 1225/. 4*. 4d. ; the latter sum would have
been of greater extent was it not from the kindness of many
of the Antiguan proprietors, in presenting each a barrel or
two of sugar.
Thus have I gone with Mr. Holberton through the " rise
and progress of the Daily Meal Society.' ' Perhaps some of
the truly charitable inhabitants of dear old England may be
induced to send their mite across the waters in aid of this
society, of whose existence they may probably not have
been hitherto aware ; and as I knew it was out of my power
to use more cogent language — language which speaks to the
heart — nor advocate the cause so well as our excellent
rector, I have therefore quoted so largely from his ** brief
review," feeling assured he will pardon me, and hoping my
readers will bear with me. In conclusion, I will once more
use his words and say — " It is undeniable that the hand of
258 DESTITUTE FEMALES'
God has been over it to sustain it in its small beginning, to
uphold it in every difficulty, and to raise it to its present
prosperity. To God, then, be all the praise ; and may the
success with which He has been pleased to crown the exer-
tions of the society provoke every member and friend of it
to increasing diligence in these works of charity, for which
there will still be a continual call. 1 '
The next charitable institution to be mentioned is " the
Destitute Females' Friend Society/' or, as it is now termed,
" the Female Orphan Society. 11 This latter title is, how*
ever, a misnomer, for but few of the inmates are orphans in
the true sense of the word, they being, but with few excep-
tions, the illegitimate children of black or coloured women,
(by white or coloured persons,) whose parents, still alive,
are, from penury, incompetent to maintain them, or are
living in a state of concubinage, and consequently not
proper guides to youth.
This society, which is invaluable, and is well known in
England by its first name, although, perhaps, lost sight of
in its modernized title, was established about the year 1816.
The origin of it was as follows : —
" The attention of a few pious and benevolent individuals of the female
sex was called to the situation of an indigent class of coloured children
of their own sex, (for whom there was then no parochial relief;) and
witnessing with feelings of poignant regret their moral and religious
degradation still more than their bodily necessities, they were impelled
to exert, in connexion with a few other friends, all their united energies
for the amelioration of the condition of these unhappy children, and
thereby lessen the evils resulting to the community in general from a
generation growing up without religious or moral cultivation. To effect
these desirable objects, it was resolved to make an immediate and bold
attempt.
" The attempt was bold, because it could not be carried into execution
by persons circumscribed in their means of doing it without the con-
currence and aid of others like-minded, and of whose co-operation they
were not assured. Encouraged, however, by one whose heart devised
liberal things, though possessing himself little power to accomplish them
from his own resources, but favoured with influence over some who
considered themselves as stewards appointed by God to benefit their
fellow creatures, and assured by him of competent aid from England, if
FRIEND SOCIETY. 259
it could not be obtained in Antigua, a commencement was made by a few
subscribers, chiefly respectable coloured persons ; and several children
were immediately taken to be clothed, fed, and instructed ; and when
the plan was made known to the community at large, and to other bene-
volent individuals in England and Scotland, the society, by their gene-
rous assistance, grew into its present state of maturity. Such was its
origin, and we cannot but observe in it the benefit resulting from a social
compact to do good to our fellow creatures— the design to rescue from
the paths of the destroyer, and to train in those of piety, industry, and
useful occupation, the objects of their care. The success, though not in
every instance unfailing, has been considerable. A few, there is reason
to hope, are where sin and sorrow cannot enter. Others, as useful
domestics, or conductors of their own households, testify to the truth of
the fact.
" Three of the elder girls have been sent into creditable situations,
with a prospect of comfort to themselves and usefulness to their employers.
Four more have been admitted to fill their places. Seventeen are now
in the house. The committee would not arrogate to themselves- any
undue merit; but they gratefully receive the meed of approbation
awarded to them by the frequent application they have for the admit-
tance of children, and for girls to fill the place of servants."
I have quoted so largely from the reports of the society
(1841) for two reasons — first, because the committee are,
and of course ought to be, better acquainted with its pro-
ceedings than myself; and secondly, because its details are
related with a striking simplicity of style, which must speak
to every breast not devoid of the " milk of human kindness,"
and I am sure no words of mine would be able to influence
further the minds of those benevolent persons who, through
the medium of these pages, may become acquainted with its
existence, and feel wishful of adding a trifle to the funds of
this invaluable society.
That it is an invaluable charity none can deny, for it
strikes to the root of all West Indian misery — illicit love ;
and what can be more acceptable to " the community at
large" than the endeavouring to inculcate into the minds of
its youthful members the doctrines of chastity and diligence
in well-doing ? The twenty -sixth anniversary of this society
was held on the 31st December, 1841. The children, in-
mates of the house, are taught reading, writing, and arith-
metic, and are instructed in all the arts of female plain-
260 FRIENDLY 8OCIETIE8.
work, — straw-bonnet sewing and cleaning forming one
branch of their employment. Their earnings for the last
year were 107/. 0*. 7^d. currency, out of which,
5/. 13*. ]0jd. had to be deducted for materials to carry on
their different works. The matron receives a salary of 60/.
currency per annum, and the children are clothed and
boarded, and have medical attendance found them; and
when death sends forth its summons, and any of the inmates
fall a prey to its inevitable shafts, their last resting-place is
provided, and the funeral expenses paid.
The next institutions worthy of mention are the town and
country €i Friendly Societies." They are formed upon a
similar plan to some of the " poor men's clubs 1 ' in England,
and prove of great assistance to the members in times of
sickness and trial. The St. John's Friendly Society was
established in 1829, under the auspices of that zealous
minister, the Rev. R. Holberton, and was intended to
promote good feelings among the lower classes, to assist
them in procuring articles of mourning, aid them in times
of deep distress, help those incapable of helping themselves,
and encourage sobriety and industry among them.
After the abolition of slavery, in 1834, many of the
negroes removing from the estates to which they formerly
belonged, and other estates not finding medical advice for
their labourers, as in times of slavery, it was found necessary
to enlarge the rules of the society ; and by increasing the
amount subscribed by every member, provide them with a
doctor when ill, a certain sum per week during indisposition,
and upon demise twelve dollars for the funeral expenses.
The first country Friendly Society was established in
1832 ; but since that period they have rapidly increased.
" In 1834," remarks Mr. Holberton, " there were eleven
societies, with 1602 members; in 1835, 4197 members; in
1836, 4560 members." The Moravians and Wesleyans have
each their Friendly Societies, formed and conducted upon
a similar plan.
On the first of January, 1842, I visited St. John's church,
BIBLE SOCIETY* 261
to hear the anniversary sermon preached to the society.
The members met at the parochial school-room, where they
formed into a procession, the women first, and the men
following behind, and marched to the church, headed by the
Very Rev. the Archdeacon, the Rev. Mr. Holberton, the
rector, the Rev. Mr. Piggott, and the Rev. Mr. Saulez.
The morning service having been performed, and a very
suitable and excellent sermon preached by the Rev.
Mr. Piggott, the members again formed into ranks, and
marched back to the school-room, where the report of the
society was read, short addresses made, and refreshments
handed round, when the whole party dispersed. I could not
help remarking the smart appearance of the members — such
rainbow ribbons, and stylish bonnets — such parasols and
sandals — such blue coats and white trowsers ! — as made their
appearance on that day would surprise any one.
The next society, which by-the-bye ought to have been
mentioned first, as being the oldest in the island, is the Bible
Society, organized in 1815. It is comprised of every sect
and shade in the island, and its interests are managed by an
efficient committee. After the abolition of slavery in 1834,
the parent society sent a " munificent grant, by which a
choice portion of the Holy Scriptures was gratuitously cir-
culated to about one-third of the inhabitants of this colony.
Nine thousand seven hundred copies of the New Testament,
bound together with the Book of Psalms, were thus placed
at the disposal of the committee."
The remaining societies are the " Missionary Associations''
connected with the Wesley an mission, established in 1820,
and intended for the purpose of raising funds for the parent
society in England. The "Temperance Society," intro-
duced into Antigua in the year 1836 ; the " Juvenile Asso-
ciation," established 1815 ; the " Ladies Clothing Society/'
(or Dorcas Society,) and two other associations belonging to
the established church, and known as the (< Society for the
Promotion of Christian Knowledge," and the " Branch As-
sociation of the Society for the advancing the Christian
262 THE BANKS.
Faith in the British West Indies, &c." The Moravians
have also a Missionary society, established in 1839.
Having now gone through the charitable institutions, I
must proceed to mention the " Banks/ 1 of which there are
two in the island — the " Colonial Bank/' incorporated by
royal charter, 1836 ; and the " West Indian Bank/' in 1840.
The first of these banks issues a very neat note, (from five
dollars [1/. sterling] and upwards,) bearing a lithographed
representation of the royal arms, and encircled with a very
prettily designed border ; but the " West Indian" dissemi-
nates the most frightful " paper money" I ever witnessed.
Some of their notes are red, and others blue ; who was the
designer of the "arms" which grace the head of them I
know not, but they appear to be in direct opposition to all
laws of heraldry. The shield (of an oblong figure) is
divided into three quarterings : 1st, or, an eagle (apparently)
sable, beaked, rising from the sea ; 2nd, gules, a ship full-
rigged, argent ; 3rd, azure, a castle, argent, battled. The
supporters are two dwarfish cocoa-nut trees, (palm ?) appa-
rently springing from the same root as their companions, two
gigantic pine-apples ; the whole surmounted by the crown
of England. With regard to the benefit which the estab-
lishment of these banks has rendered the country, various
opinions have been formed.
After the " Banks/' the only remaining institution to be
mentioned is the " Antigua Library Society," which accord-
ing to its " rules and regulations/' is devoted to " the
gradual formation of a permanent library of general litera-
ture, and the establishment, in connexion with the library, of
a reading-room, to be furnished with newspapers, journals,
pamphlets, periodicals, and other new publications."
Now it is well known that we live in an age of puffing, as
well as steaming, and it may be imagined by some, that these
caterers for intellectual sweets have fallen short of their
promises. Not so, kind readers ; take my word for it there
are few better organized societies of the kind to be met
LIBRARY SOCIETY. 263
with, or whose well-filled shelves bear a richer burden.
Books to suit every taste (and every age> I might say — for our
friend a Peter Parley" displays there the hidden treasures of
the " earth, the sea, and skies,' 1 to the delight of the youthful
reader,) may be found in this Library Society. Theological,
metaphysical, biographical, historical, and lighter works,
abound. Poetry is not excluded ; our own sweet bards, from
good old Chaucer, that «* father of English poetry," down to
the soft strains of Mrs. Hemans, or L. £. L., rank among its
selections.
Of modern works there are no end. There, the irresistible
charms of that " Wizard of the North/' the late Sir Walter
Scott, with his "Jenny Deans;" his high-minded "Flora
Mclvor ;" his unfortunate " Bride of Lammermoor," and all
his other " gentle dames" and " lordly knights," are displayed
before the enraptured reader. There Marryat amuses with
his naivetSy and those stirring incidents of a sailor's life, he
knows so well to picture. There, " Boz" carries you per-
force from the hut to the castle, and makes you weep or
laugh in each. There are Bulwer and Ainsworth, who draw
their gentlemen-ruffians in such a guise as to lead one to
admire even a housebreaker or highwayman ; Cooper, who
makes us long to lead the life of a backwood's-man ; James,
with his darling peeps at " by-gone days ;" the dear Miss
Mitford and Mary Howitt, whose simple annals and sylvan
scenes almost bring before us the lovely fields and sweet
flowers of England; Mrs. Gore, with all her pageantries ;
Mrs. Trollope, with her playful but keen sarcasms; the
Countess of Blessington, with her elegant diction and pure
imagery, as lovely as her own sweet form ; with many other
authors of note, are equally at the command of the sub-
scribers to this Antiguan bibliotheca.
This society has been established for many years, but it
was not incorporated by an act of the legislature until 1839,
during the government of Sir Wm. Colebrooks. The mem-
bers are elected by ballot, and after subscribing for ten
264 EARLY RISING.
years, they become free of the library, retaining all the pri-
vileges without being called upon for payment.
The library is kept in the upper part of a large house,
well adapted for the purpose, consisting as it does of two
good sized apartments, with library tables, covered with
respectable green cloth, and pamphlets of all sorts and sizes ;
the sides of the room are lined with bookcases. Altogether
it is an admirable society, and I strenuously advise all in-
habitants of Antigua, whose ideas are not absolutely tied
down to " profit and loss," to become members ; they cannot
spend their spare money more agreeably, nor while away
their leisure to better purpose.
CHAPTER XXII.
Early rising and " Jamie Thomson" — Journey to English Harbour —
Windmills and Don Quixote — Groups of negroes and their equipages
—All Saints' chapel of ease— The " Hamlet"— Village of Liberia—
Grace Hill — Patterson's and Prince William — English Harbour
market — Streets and dwellings — Commissariat's store, and govern-
ment tank — Dockyard — The superintendent — Stores and storehouses
— Engineer's workshop — Blacksmith's shop and blowing machine —
Limes and roses — Recollections of England — Lieutenant Peterson
and Lord Camelford — His lordship's pranks — The ordinance —
Clarence House and Dows Hill — The Ridge and " Shirley heights" —
Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley — Bats Cave — The Savannah and
its tombs — Indian Creek — Return to town.
The church clock proclaimed the hour of five, as a gentle
rap came at my chamber door. Awakened from a pleasant
dream, I started from my couch, and heard with something
like vexation, that it was time to dress, in order to prosecute
our intended journey to English Harbour.
Beautiful as is the breath of " early morn," still there is
something very disagreeable in leaving your comfortable
bed, and it may be, your gorgeous dreams, for the dull
realities of life, and the necessary, but irksome duties of the
JAMIE THOMSON. 265
toilet. I know I shall be cried down by all lovers of Nature
for ray unsentimental remarks. Thomson, enraptured with
his subject " of early rising," exclaims with all a poet's
fervour —
Falsely luxurious, will not man awake,
And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy
The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour,
To meditation due and sacred song ?
For is there aught in sleep can charm the wise ?
To lie in dead oblivion, losing half
The fleeting moments of too short a life-
Total extinction of th' enlighten'd soul !
Or else to feverish vanity alive,
Wilder'd, and tossing through distemper'd dreams,
Who would in such a gloomy state remain
Longer than nature craves — when every muse
And every blooming pleasure wait without,
To bless the wildly devious morning walk."
Now, all this sounds very pretty — very romantic indeed ;
and we begin to fancy the poet amid some " bosky dell,"
or upland lawn, his shoes liberally bedewed with those glit-
tering gems, which " hang in every cowslip's bell," and his
unpowdered locks streaming behind him in the morning
gale. But stay, gentle reader ! hast thou not heard that
Thomson was himself a very sluggard, and loved his warm
bed far better than any sylvan scene he could so well
describe? And in truth, many and many a poet, even to
" Joanna Bailey/' the morning rhymester, has been of the
same mind. Then, why should I not tell the truth, and own
my sloth — although at the same time, when once abroad, no
one feels the nameless *' melodies of morn" more than I do.
But to resume my subject: the incidents of a day's journey
to English Harbour. After partaking of a light breakfast,
and quaffing of that cup " which cheers, but not inebriates,"
we stepped into the phaeton, and drove through the town,
leaving our friends in " Scotch-row" busily employed in
arranging their incongruous goods to the best advantage.
The day was very favourable to our undertaking, for it
was fine, but overcast. The sun was robbed of his extreme
lustre by the intervention of various clouds, which passed
VOL. I. N
266 ENGLISH HARBOUR.
along the sky in many beautiful forms. Some dark as ebon
night ; others of a silverish grey ; the eastern ones tinged
with gold and purple ; while some again looked so white and
fleecy, that you could fancy them so many snow-wreaths
spread out upon an ocean of blue. The lights and shadows,
too, of the far mountains, with all their blended tints, were
beautiful objects in the landscape ; and the occasional sight
of a herd or two of cattle, standing in their usual dreamy
posture, completed the picture. We passed several wind-
mills (used in grinding the sugar-cane) with their sails un-
furled, and going round merrily in the breeze ; but unlike
Don Quixote, I took them not for so many giants, nor wished
myself a knight-errant, that I might rescue the " beautiful
and high-born damsels" from their clutches.
The road to English Harbour is, however, for the most
part dull and uninteresting ; only here and there a pretty
prospect attracts the eye. But on this day (Monday*) it
was rendered more cheerful by the groups of negroes, who,
of every age and sex, were coming into town to purchase their
weekly stores. Baskets, trays, and boxes — all kinds of vessels,
indeed — were placed in critical positions upon their heads ;
but this appeared to cause no impediment to their ambling
gait, while the chatter and song among themselves, and the
smile and courtesy as they passed us, with the accustomed
" How d'ye, massa ?" " How dye, missis ?" shewed that they
considered their errand as one of pleasure rather than of toil.
Carts were also put into requisition by the more extensive
purchasers ; some drawn by a ragged Canadian pony, similar
to the little Sheltic breed ; others by a tall grim-looking
American horse, with its bones sticking out as bare as
" Rozinante's ; " and others again dragged along by a slight-
* It may be necessary to remark, for the benefit of my English
readers, that although Saturday is the principal market-day, Monday is
more generally used by the labouring class for coming into the capital
to provide their weekly supplies. So much is this the case, that where
you may see fifty labourers employed upon a plantation upon the other
days of the week, on Monday you will scarcely find twenty.
ALL SAINTS' CHAPEL OF EASE. 267
made Creole, its mane and tail the colour of flax. Cattle
carts were also bringing in loads of sugar, drawn by six miser-
able-looking oxen two abreast, their poor necks weighed
down by the heavy wooden yokes.
In one part of the road we passed All Saints' chapel of
ease, belonging to the parish of St. John's. It is a very plain
building, surmounted by a gothic pinnacle, answering the
purpose of a steeple, with an aperture in the middle, intended,
I suppose, for the admission of a bell.
After passing a ruined estate, where the long grass grew
upon the walls of a roofless building, once used as a boiling
house, and accomplishing a steep descent, and one or two
abrupt turnings in the road, we came to a cluster of houses,
known by the title of " the hamlet." Many of these rural
dwellings are very neatly built of native stone ; and their
little gardens appear to be well stocked with the country
produce, such as potatoes, peas, eddoes, arrowroot, &c.
A short distance from the hamlet is another similar collec-
tion of dwellings, bearing the name of "the village of
Libert a," (as a painted board informed us,) and equally
abundant in its bright green patches of edibles. The eman-
cipation of the negroes, and their desire to possess a portion
of the soil in perpetuity, gave rise to these villages, of which
there are many in different parts of the island. Here they
erect small houses, and plant ground provisions. Some of
these little dwellings are very neatly constructed, being raised
a little distance from the ground, and the front door graced
with a flight of steps and a small portico, while the open
windows are furnished with white curtains.
Adjoining the " village of Liberta," lies the Moravian
settlement of Grace Hill, snugly ensconced in its leafy fence,
and, like other settlements of the kind in this island, breathing
an air of happy tranquillity.
Leaving Grace Hill, and travelling on some distance, we
arrived at an estate called Patterson's, belonging to the
Hon. John Athill, and celebrated in Antiguan history, as
n 2
268 monk's hill.
being the spot where the murder of the governor's child was
perpetrated, (already narrated in the legend of Ding a Ding
Nook,) on the occasion of the abduction of his lady in 1640.
The (( great house" upon this estate was honoured by a visit
from our late lamented monarch, William IV., who in 1798
passed a night there.
We here once again came within sight of the sea, which
greatly added to the attractions of the scene, while on our
left hand rose Monk's Hill, surmounted by its fortifications,
and strewed in some parts with ruined Carib's houses. Passing
through the town of Falmouth, we gained a kind of marsh,
dotted over with clumps of aquatic shrubs, and here and
there opening to the sea, and in a few moments entered the
village of " English Harbour." The market is just at its
entrance, and consisted, upon the day we visited it, of about
ten or twelve persons, squatting on the ground, and having
before them shallow wooden trays, containing a few country
vegetables, a miserable-looking chicken or two, a few strings
of strong-scented fish, a store of sun-burnt bread, and other
similar luxuries !
The houses are in general of very mean construction, and
destitute of paint. There are, however, some very pleasant
residences belonging to the crown, from which beautiful
sea-views may be obtained ; for the village is built along the
margin of the sea, and in some parts the waves come rippling
up to the very street, and wet the feet of the passengers.
Dogs and ducks were enjoying themselves in the water, — the
former dashing in and out, and rolling in the sand, while the
latter, with their eyes almost closed, were resting upon their
glassy couch, in all the luxury of idleness.
Before entering the dockyard, we passed the commissariat
stores ; and on the opposite side of the road, a large tank,
capable of containing 240 tons of water, built by the legis-
lature for the use of the shipping, but from which the inha-
bitants of the village are allowed to draw water, the dock-
yard being so well supplied with those necessary reservoirs.
This tank bears many a sculptured name ; among the rest,
THE DOCKYARD. 269
that of " Nelson," that laurel-crowned hero, who visited
Antigua in 1784.*
A pair of strong, well-secured gates guard the entrance
to the dockyard ; which being thrown open, we drove in,
and alighted at the office of the superintendant of the esta-
blishment, preparatory to inspecting the accommodations of
the place.
The dockyard consists of two separate departments. The
first, since entitled St. Helena, was commenced in 1726,
during the administration of John Hart, Esq., and at the
suggestion of Capt. Francis Cooper, commander of H. M. S.
" Lynn," and Capt. Arthur Del Garno, commander of
H. M. S. " South Sea Castle." These experienced and clever
naval officers saw the advantage of having proper wharfs, &c.
for careening ships in Antigua, instead of being obliged to
despatch the vessels appointed to this station, to the northern
colonies, when any repairs were necessary, as they had before
been in the practice of doing. The land chosen, as being
most applicable to the purpose, consisted of two portions,
of ten acres each, which in 1718 had been granted to Joseph
Green, and William Greatrix, privates in H.M. troops,
* As it may amuse the reader, we here transcribe an original letter,
written by our great naval hero at this period, which is carefully pre-
served by its proprietor as an invaluable relic : —
" English Harbour, Aug. 3rd, 1784.
" As the captains of the navy at this port mean to establish a mess
for the hurricane months, by their desire I write to beg that you will
send us round, by the first opportunity, the undermentioned articles —
viz., one hogshead of port, one of the best white wine that you have,
twelve dozen of porter in bottles, fifty pounds loaf sugar, one firkin of
good butter, two baskets of salt, two pounds black pepper.
" I have the honour to be, your humble servant,
"Horatio Nelson.
" P.S. As we only wait for these things to begin our mess, the sooner
they arrive the better. Mr. Druce, the agent victualler is a going to
send provisions round for the Fury which will be a good opportunity.
" Addressed to — Kerr, Esq."
270 JOSEPH HART, ESQ.
disbanded in consequence of the cessation of war. These
lands were, however, forfeited to the crown by the non-
settlement of them, by the grantees ; and they were conse-
quently appropriated to the purpose of establishing a dock-
yard, which is now not to be equalled in this part of the globe.
This establishment having proved of such advantage to
Antigua, and the rest of the Leeward Islands, his majesty,
George II., ordered that another wharf, with magazines,
stores, and other appendages, should be constructed. Ac-
cordingly, in 1743, a tract of land was purchased from Thomas
Bodkin ; five acres of which was to be appropriated for the
site of the new naval buildings ; and the remainder to be
allotted to poor white settlers, at the discretion of the com-
mander-in-chief, the council, and assembly of Antigua.
Such was the origin of the village of English Harbour,
which, on account of being principally crown property, is
disfranchised.
The dockyard presents a fine and noble appearance ; and
under the able superintendence of Joseph Hart, Esq., every-
thing seems to be conducted in the best possible manner ;
while the yard itself is kept so beautifully clean, that a walk
through it affords real pleasure. The exertions of Mr. Hart
may perhaps be better appreciated when it is considered that
only six labourers are allowed him to perform all necessary
duties ; and that these men are also liable to be called upon
by the pilot, at a moment's notice, whenever that officer is
employed in piloting vessels of war in or out of the harbour.
The storehouses upon St. Helena are principally used for
storing coals, and in consequence, her majesty's steam-ves-
sels frequent more that side of the dock. The largest ships
of war (that visit these seas) can go alongside this wharf
when necessary.
On the south of St. Helena lies " Freeman's Bay," where
such of H. M. vessels as are intended to remain but a short
time generally anchor ; the offing being more readily gained
from thence than when further in.
The last-erected part of this naval establishment, or "the
OFFICES. 271
dockyard," as it is more generally called, is separated from
St. Helena by the blue waters of the dock, and contains
various buildings, of which I shall first mention the com-
missioner's room, and pay offices, (under one roof,) as
that was the first place I visited. The commissioner's
room is a very pleasant apartment, with windows to the
east and west, and folding-doors to the south opening upon
a small stone terrace, with a flight of steps leading to the
wharf beneath. From this terrace a delightful view may be
obtained. St. Helena lies exactly opposite, its warehouses
reflected in the clear, blue sea, which flows at your feet ;
on your left, Clarence House, and the adjacent country ;
while, on your right, the mouth of the harbour, guarded
with its forts, and the blue ocean, with its snowy crested
waves, blends with the sky in the distance. In the apart-
ment itself are considerable quantities of Psalters and New
Testaments, designed, I suppose, for the use of the naval
seamen ; but those annoying pests, the cock-roaches, have
made sad work with the bindings. Leaving this room,
we walked into the pay offices, divided by blue railings,
into the commissioner's office, master shipwright's office,
master attendant's office, and storekeeper's office ; as the
several white-lettered inscriptions informed me. These pay-
ing offices are all contained in one apartment, measuring
about 8 feet by 4 feet. They must not be corpulent per-
sons who occupy them, or they will be less at their ease than
poor " Hudibras" was in the " Wooden Bastile."
Descending another flight of stone steps, we crossed part
of the yard, and arrived at the naval officers 9 quarters, a
very pleasant and handsome building, along which runs a
pretty verandah, commanding a similar view to that obtained
from the terrace of the commissioner's room. Underneath
these quarters, is the principal tank, divided into twelve
compartments, and capable of containing 1000 tuns of water.
From this tank pipes pass under-ground, to the edge of the
wharf, (a distance of a hundred feet,) which being furnished
with a cock, the water can be turned into the casks at plea-
272 STORES AND STOREHOUSES.
sure ; or, when in great haste, another pipe is fixed from
thence into the hold of the ship, which in this manner re-
ceives its proper allowance of water, at a distance of 100
feet from shore.
A few paces from the officers' quarters, stands a large
building, 100 feet by 90 feet, used as a copper, steamer's,
and lumber store; attached to which are four semi-cir-
cular tanks, capable of holding ten tuns of water each.
Passing from this, we came to the cordage, sail, canvass,
and clothing store, of a similar size ; and opposite to which,
at the distance of about ten feet, is the working mast-
house, (100 feet square,) and joiners' loft above. In this
building a party of men were busily employed in making
a new mast for H. M. schooner, " Fair Rosamond," which,
having met with an accident, a few days before, had put into
Antigua to repair. Parallel with this building is another
working mast -house, and joiners' loft above, of similar
dimensions to the former, used also for the accommodation
of the yard engines.
-Peeping into a snug little box, called the porter's
lodge, and passing the guard house, store for condemned
articles, and paint store, we entered the boat-house.
By this time the sun had gained its meridian height,
and poured a blaze of light over the whole yard, which,
reflected from the white, sandy ground, dazzled my eyes
with its powerful radiance, and oppressed me with its
excessive heat. As I entered then this building, how de-
lightful did its cooling air strike upon me ! — how sweet was
the breeze which passed over my brow, and allayed its
throbbing ! while the gentle plash of the water sounded
most musically to the ear. One part of the boat-house is
floored ; the other has a channel cut in it to the depth of 18
feet, for the admission of the water. The roof is supported
by 16 round stone pillars, of 12 feet in circumference; and
above is a loft, where ships'-sails are . kept. Leaving the
boat-house, we entered the tar and block stores, where we
blacksmith's shop. 273
found a part of the crew of the " Fair Rosamond " employed
in making spun-yarn, used for the purpose of lashing, &c.
About 20 feet distant, is a building containing painter's
cabin for grinding paint, and the engineer's office, be-
neath is a lead cellar. We next visited the engineer's
workshop, where we were agreeably entertained with seeing
the cutting and punching machine put into motion. I am
not engineer enough to describe this machine in a tech-
nical manner, and must therefore only remark that, by
means of an oblong wheel, if I may be allowed the expres-
sion, worked by two men, it is capable of cutting through
the thickest piece of cold iron, with the same ease and
quickness a person would cut a scrap of paper, and at the
same time, punching holes of about the diameter of a shil-
ling through another piece of the same metal. We also saw
a turning-lathe capable of turning any description of iron
from three inches to 28 in diameter. There were also in-
numerable machines, of other forms, and for various pur-
poses, which were put into motion for our amusement ; and
a piece of the iron, which had been cut and punched in
divers figures, was tendered to me — a memento of an engi-
neer's workshop in a West Indian dockyard.
The next place we entered was one more suited to a
hyperborean climate than an Antiguan noonday — a black-
smith's shop. Here, six forges can be worked ; and several
Cyclops ply their skill amid their dingy implements. To
these forges, immense bellows *• turned their iron mouths,"
and, impelled by swarthy hands, sent forth a shower of glit-
tering sparks. We also saw, two patent blowing ma-
chines, manufactured by " Thomas, late Halley and Co.,"
which, by a peculiar arrangement, propels the blast upwards
and downwards at the same time. The master blacksmith
worked them for a few moments, but informed us they had
not so much power as the first pair of bellows we observed
upon our entrance, which, from its magnitude, ought to be
called the " King of the Bellows." He bid us place our-
n3
274 roses.
selves before the mouth of this last-mentioned pair, and we
should be convinced of the truth of his assertions ; but as I
felt no wish to be blown away in a gale of ashes, I declined
the invitation, humbly subscribing to his superior knowledge
in such matters. I could not help thinking, that had Eolus
known the use of these " blowing-machines," what a far
more powerful wind he might have raised, than (as it is pic-
tured he did) by employing the sons of Astra? us to blow so
painfully with their distended cheeks amid his mighty caverns.
Leaving the blacksmith's shop, we passed the sawpit
shed and smaller tank, and the shipwright's house, and
then turning an acute angle, came to a very pleasant
residence, occupied by the superintendent of the yard, Mr.
Hart. Here I met with some of my favourite lime-trees,
their pearly flowers redolent with perfume. Mr. Hart
kindly plucked for us some of the golden fruit ; and after-
wards presented, what was dearer to me, from the recollec-
tions they call up, three beautiful roses.* I may be laughed
at for being so fanciful, but I never see a rose, I never in-
hale its rich fragrance, without wandering in imagination
through the flowery gardens of my own land. " Oh ! Eng-
land, my own dear country ! never did one of thy children
love thee better than I do ! In the midst of sickness, in
the midst of suffering — when the fervour of a tropical sun
burns through my very frame, and the climate throws its
languor around me — my mind still reverts to thy verdant
fields, I see again thy hawthorn-hedges with all their snowy
blossoms, thy carpeting of lovely lowly flowers, — 1 breathe
thy countless odours, — I hear thy sweet-toned birds, or the
soft chime of thy village bells, and feel upon ' my very
cheek thy bland and healthy breeze.' "
But to return to Mr. Hart and his roses. I kept them
through the hot day, bore them in safety to my home, and
* It may be necessary to remark, that roses are very choice flowers
in Antigua, the climate not appearing to agree with them. This is
strange, as in the East Indies, where the heat is even greater, whole
fields are planted with this beautiful shrub, in order to get their leaves
to distil the far-fame " Attar."
LIEUTENANT PETERSON. ' 275
they now stand before me. But, alas ! their beauty is all
gone, — their discoloured leaves seem to mourn their own
dishonour ; and only that " the scent of the roses hangs
round it still/' I should scarcely know what the vase con-
tains.
After resting in a cool apartment for some time, and
taking a glass of lemonade which Pomona herself would not
have refused, the carriage was ordered to the door, and we
were in the act of stepping in, when it occurred to us that
this was a good opportunity to visit the spot where Lieut.
Peterson received his death wound.
I have already mentioned, in the historical part of this
work, this unfortunate incident, but, with the permission of
my readers, I must again* allude to it. At the time of the
occurrence, Lord Camelford commanded the " Favourite,' '
sloop of war, and Commodore Fahie the ship " Perdrix,"
Mr. Peterson holding the rank of first lieutenant on board
the last-named vessel. Commodore Fahie had left Antigua
a short time before, to take temporary command of the fleet,
then anchored before St. Kitts,* and during his absence,
Lieutenant Peterson was, of course, left in command of the
" Perdrix."
It was the custom, in those troubled days of warfare, for
boats to row backwards and forwards across the harbour
during the hours of night, the sailors of the different ships
in the dock, headed by one of their officers, taking it by
turns to keep this watch ; and the sleeper might often be
roused from his dreams as the deep-toned alVs well resounded
through the still night air.
Lord Camelford and Lieutenant Peterson were unhap-
pily at variance ; and, perhaps to mortify his rival, Lord
Camelford ordered Mr. Peterson to take the watch upon
the very evening that a gay ball was to be given at Blacks
Point to the naval officers. Unfortunately Lieutenant
Peterson entertained the idea that as he was in com-
mand of the ship " Perdrix," in the absence of Commo-
* Of which island he was a native.
276 LORD CAMELFORD.
dore Fahie, he was superior officer to Lord Camelford,
who only commanded a sloop ; and, in consequence of this
false impression, he positively refused to obey his lordship's
orders.
The disastrous evening approached, and the lieutenant
retired to his quarters above the capstan-house, in order to
dress for the festive party. Arming himself with a pair of
loaded pistols, and telling his boat's crew to attend him,
Lord Camelford quitted his retirement, and stationed him-
self directly between the capstan house and the guard house,
(now called the commissioner's house,) and there waited the
approach of Mr. Peterson, whom he had already summoned
to attend him.
Upon the unfortunate young officer making his appear-
ance, accompanied by some of his friends, his lordship again
commanded him to take charge of the watch for the evening
— the command was again refused — when, taking one of the
pistols from his bosom, Lord Camelford immediately fired,
and the ball passing through the breast of the brave, but
inconsiderate lieutenant, he fell a corpse upon the ground,
the deadly stream welling from the wound, and staining, as it
flowed, the gay ball-dress which he wore.
No sooner did the well-aimed weapon do its work, than,
drawing the other from its resting-place, his lordship turned
to the second lieutenant of the " Perdrix," and pointing it at
him, asked if he would obey his orders, or meet the same
punishment as Mr. Peterson ? Life is sweet ! The second in
command saw his friend stretched at his feet with the red
blood gurgling around him, and fearing the same fate, he
obeyed Lord Camelford, and took the watch.
Oh, duty ! what a stern goddess thou art ! or else how
much art thou belied, for the deed was laid to thy charge.
He disobeyed his superior officer, and in the midst of health,
of buoyant feelings, and without, perhaps,, time to think of a
hereafter, he was to die. 1 can never more pass those sunken
anchors which mark the tragic spot, without thinking of the
mournful fate of this self- deceived mutineer, poor Lieutenant
BRUTAL CONDUCT OF LORD CAJVIELFORD. 277
Peterson, or fancying I can see him in his death throes,
stretched upon that sandy ground by the hand of him who
had been once his friend.
This circumstance was not the only one that caused Lord
Camelford's name to be well known in Antigua. Upon an-
other occasion he went to Mr. Kitto, then superintendent of
the naval-yard, and informed him he wanted certain altera-
tions made on board the vessel of war he commanded.
Mr. Kitto, in the mildest terms, acquainted his lordship that
he could not oblige him, as it would be going beyond his
warrant. To this refusal the angry officer made no reply,
but immediately going on board his ship, he summoned his
boatswain to his presence, and ordered him to provide him-
self with a cat-of-nine-tails, and hold himself in readiness to
accompany him ashore.
In the course of a short time, Lord Camelford, the boat-
swain, and bis mate, and a few of the crew of the " Favourite,"
proceeded to the dockyard, and a message was despatched
to Mr. Kitto, desiring his attendance.
Upon the arrival of the superintendent, Lord Camelford
again demanded to know if he would accede to his wishes,
at the same time giving a pretty broad hint that, in case of
refusal, his back should be visited by the " Cat." Mr. Kitto
once more observed, " It would be going beyond my war*
rant," when, as he uttered these words, at a signal from his
lordship, the unfortunate superintendent was seized, and
twelve dozen lashes inflicted with no unsparing hand by the
boatswain of the t€ Favourite."
This illegal and brutal conduct was not, however, passed
over ; a complaint was laid against Lord Camelford, and the
case was investigated at the court house. Upon the day of
trial, as may be supposed, the court was thronged with
spectators ; the assault was proved, and bail was about to
be demanded, when his lordship begged permission to retire
for a short time. His request was complied with ; but no
sooner had he gained the outer gate of the court house, than,
seizing a horse which some gentleman visitant had fastened
278 ESCAPE OF LORD CAMELFORD.
to the iron palisading, he mounted, and rode away in di-
rection of English Harbour as fast as the animal could be
urged.
In a moment all was confusion. " The prisoner's es-
caped !" was the universal cry ; and as the truth became
known within the court house, various were the indivi-
duals who hurried forth, mounted their horses, and joined
in the pursuit. The Honourable Edward Byam was then
president of the island, and with the same high spirit of
equity which has ever marked that family, and unbiassed
by the rank of the offender, he immediately threw up one of
the windows of the court-house, and shouted — '< A hundred
pounds for his recapture — a hundred pounds for his head !"
On kept Lord Camelford, (almost overtaken by one of the
constables, a very athletic man, of the name of White,) until
at length the horse he was riding fell down from exhaustion,
and obliged his lordship to take refuge in an adjoining cane-
field. Upon the party who were in pursuit gaining the place
of his retreat, a sudden stand was made. The rabble who had
joined the party, and some of the horsemen, were stationed
around the cane-field ; while the constables, with a few
attendants, and several dogs, entered the precincts of the
field, and literally hunted the offending lord through its
tangled mazes, until, overcome with fatigue, and unarmed,
he was taken by bis pursuers.
In the escape, Lord Camelford's hat had fallen off, and
he was therefore placed upon a horse bareheaded ; and in
this manner, surrounded by the officials, and followed by all
the riff-raff of " St. John's and its environs," he was brought
back, and once more placed before the court. Lord Camelford
was ordered to find bail for his appearance at the sessions.
The amount of bis recognisances was 5000/. ; Walter
Colquhoun and Walter Riddle, Esqs., standing sureties for
his forthcoming. Upon his lordship's return to English
Harbour, he drew bills for the amount, (for which his sure-
ties would have been liable by his departure, had he not
THE RIDGE. 279
taken this precaution,) and then proceeded on board his ship
" Favourite," made sail, and quitted the shores of Antigua,
with no very enviable feelings, it is to be supposed.
The forfeited money was devoted to the purpose of sink-
ing wells, (or springs, as they are termed in the West Indian
idiom,) for the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. John's ;
and accordingly, a party of negroes were employed to prose-
cute the work.
They commenced their labours at the head of the town,
opposite to where the Scotch kirk is now building ; but after
digging to a great depth, and still finding no appearance of
water, they became seriously alarmed, and unanimously re-
fused to proceed, giving as their excuse, " that dey heard all
de cocks crowing in de oder world !"
To return to the incidents of our day's journey to English
Harbour. After leaving the scene of Lieutenant Peterson's
death, we once more walked round by the superintendant's
residence, admiring as we went the neat manner in which the
ponderous anchors and various-sized buoys were arranged ;
and then bidding the dockyard farewell, proceeded on our
way to the Ridge, which, as its name implies, is the upper
ground of a gentle ascent, appropriated to the erection of
barracks, and other military establishments, for the accom-
modation of her majesty's troops. Before I proceed to
describe the rest of the Antigua " lions," I must be allowed
to remark, that, although in my life I have visited many
public buildings in England, as well as in other parts of the
globe, I never met with more politeness, from the lowest to
the highest of the officials, than I experienced at this English
Harbour naval establishment.
A few paces from the dockyard, on the road to the
Ridge, we passed the ordnance, consisting of two sepa-
rate departments, divided from each other by an arm of
the sea — one used as a store-place for guns and balls, the
other for the reception of powder. These deadly weapons
were so neatly arranged, the different sizes forming different
280 SHIRLEY HEIGHTS.
tiers, and the balls were so prettily packed in the form of
pyramids — the day was so fine, the sea so blue, and the
buildings themselves so spruce, in their uniform of light
yellow picked out with black, that I was quite enraptured
with the picture — forgot the use they were intended for, nor
thought how many heart-broken wives and desolate orphans
had wept, with tears like blood, the carnage such instruments
had effected.
v The road wound up the ascent, which is continued until
the Ridge is gained. On one side stands a very pretty resi-
dence, known as "Clarence House," belongiug to the queen,
and one of the dwellings the superintendent of the naval
yard has under his control; and on the other side of the
road rises " Dow's Hill," surmounted by the country-seat of
the governor. In this part of the road, a stone, marked with
an anchor, points out the boundary of the naval ground ; and
on the other side of the stone, the land appropriated to the
military commences.
Still following the ascent, in process of time we gained the
engineers' quarters, the first building which marks the Ridge;
and opposite to it is the victualling office. Passing by the
officers' quarters, the barracks for the privates, the several
storehouses, and the iron hospital, for the reception of invalid
soldiers, we stood upon the utmost verge of the place bearing
the title of Shirley Heights, so named after one of the former
governors, Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart. A very beautiful view
may be obtained from this spot, well worthy of a painter's
study. Hills and dales clothed in tropical luxuriance ; rocky
precipices and lonely glens, where nature sits enthroned ;
steep mountains and ample solitudes, that look as if the foot
of man never disturbed their primeval silence ; and gentle
slopes, dotted here and there with neat-looking dwellings.
Below, on your right, lies the dockyard, with its uniform
buildings, and the lovely harbour, forming a complete basin,
encircled with its white sands ; while beyond, the ocean
presents one level sheet of burnished gold, over which the
THE ROAD TO BAT's CAVE. 281
fishing-boats were gaily bounding, and throwing the shadow
of their simple sails and slender masts far before them. The
mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across,
was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron
chain. That, however, is now no more; but the staples by
which it was secured still remain in the massive rocks, to
prove the truth of this assertion. It is now protected by two
forts placed on each side of the opening : Fort Charlotte,
mounted with four guns, 18 and 24 pounders ; Fort Berkley,
mounting twenty-four guns. At the latter fort is a magazine.
After leaving the Ridge, we turned down a slight declivity,
by the victualling offices, on our way to Bat's Cave, and the
Savannah. Our road lay through groves of loblolly, man-
chineel, and acacia, which, twining their long arms together,
formed various natural colonnades; while the ground was
strewed with their matted leaves, in all stages of decay.
Having alighted, we walked through the interwoven path,
carefully avoiding as we went the different varieties of cactus,
which spring up on all sides, and guarding our faces from
the long sharp thorns of the acacia, and the boughs of the
poisonous raanchineel. The ground, rugged and broken, was
plentifully sprinkled with disrupted portions of spar, which
glittered in the sunbeams like so many gems, and put me in
mind of Sinbad's walk in the " Valley of Diamonds." Im-
mense ground-lizards were trailing their long bodies about,
in search of their daily food, so amply provided for them by
the great Benefactor of all ; while others were basking upon
these dazzling fossils, to imbibe the heat of the meridian
sun.
After taking many devious routes among the impending
bushes, in order to discover the wished-for cavern, I was well
pleased to hear the cheerful voice of our pioneer shouting
forth " Come this way ; I've found the right path." Scramb-
ling, as best we could, over a huge bed of prickly pear,
(one of the cactus family,) we gained an opening in the
copse, and stood before the mouth of the cave. Two large
282 bat's cave.
trees, which grew on each side, extended their gnarled roots
(from which the earth had been washed) across the opening,
forming natural steps, by which we descended, and stood
within the cave.
Huge masses of the rock which forms the cavern have
fallen in, and in great measure blocked it up, so that it now
only presents an arena of about 50 feet in circumference,
although in time past it was of considerable extent. From
the main cavern, two passages branch off in opposite direc-
tions. They are perfectly dark, the only means of exploring
them being by the use of flambeaux ; but to what length
they extend has never been discovered. Mr. M*Lane, a
late resident of English Harbour, (now of Canada,) has
made several attempts to that purpose, all of which proved
fruitless ; the greatest distance he ever proceeded was to
the extent of two sea-lines, about 120 yards. The only
known occupants are bats, which breed there in immense
numbers, and often attain the size of a common pigeon. A
dank unhealthy vapour is emitted from these openings,
proceeding, no doubt, from the carbonic acid gas they con-
tain. This vapour soon extinguishes the light of a torch,
which is one reason this cavern has never been further ex-
plored.* A streak of dark green runs down one side of the
cave, which was pointed out to me as indicating the existence
of copper; but upon examining a portion of the rock I
brought away with me, I found that the colour was occa-
sioned only by a vegetable substance adhering to the stones.
In former times, Bat's Cave was a great place of conceal-
ment for the tribes of erratic Caribs, when visiting Antigua on
their predatory excursions ; and tradition still points it out
as the scene of a barbarous carousal among that wild and
savage race, in one of their attacks upon this island. As,
however, I am now giving the narration of a day's journey,
I will proceed to mention the other spots we visited, and
* It is supposed that these passages extend to the sea-shore, a distance
of about a quarter of a mile.
INSCRIPTION. 283
leave the Legend, which is rather lengthy, for the next
chapter.
Emerging from " Bat's Cave," and wending our way
amid the same rugged impediments, in process of time we
reached our vehicle, and stepping into it, proceeded to visit
the ruins of the old government house in the Savannah, the
scene of the attack narrated in the " Legend of Ding a Ding
Nook," and of a similar attempt in 1654. After driving for
a short distance over pasture land, exhibiting a dreary view
of brown and withered herbage, the effects of the late dry
weather, (rendered more striking by the contrast of the deep
green of the different trees,) which crackled under the horses'
feet, we arrived at another tangled maze of shrub and brush-
wood, where it was again necessary to proceed on foot, in
order to prosecute our intended search. Forcing our way
through this almost impenetrable thicket, rendered in some
places more impervious by the twinings and intertwinings
of the withe, (a native parasite,) stooping to avoid some
straggling branch, or springing over a thorny bank, we gained
an open glade ; and walking up the gentle acclivity, stood
by the side of the ruins.
They consist of what appears to have been a cistern,
probably the first built in the island, and a low wall of
stone, marking the foundation of the government house.
Within this last-mentioned ruin stand two tombs, the in-
scriptions upon which are as follows : —
Antigua.
Here lieth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Warner,
Late wife of Edward Warner,
Of this island, Esq.
She was a woman of exemplary piety ;
She was the best of wives,
The tenderest of mothers,
The faithfulest of friends,
And of a most charitable, compassionate disposition,
Whose death was generally and deservedly lamented
By the good people that knew her.
She departed this life the thirteenth of August,
1723,
In the 37th year of her age.
284 INDIAN CREEK.
Here lies the body of
Mr. Henry Warner,
Who died on the 17th day of Sept, 1731,
In the 39th year of his age,
Much beloved and lamented
By all that knew him.
In memory of whom, his
Affectionate brothers, Edward and
Ashton Warner,
Erected this Monument
About these tombs grew many a sweet and fragile flower,
and many a gaily painted butterfly hovered around, and
sported in the blaze of the " great luminary ;" while the
" Turk's caps" (another species of cactus) shewed their
crimson crests in all directions. A broken bottle, the relic
of some former maroon (ftte champetre) lay upon one of the
tombs — not more fragile or fickle in its nature than the
mouldering dust which slept beneath, or those who in the
heyday of life stood looking on.
Leaving the tombs and ruins to their usual solitude, we
retraced our steps ; but in doing so, I could not help think-
ing that the name " Savannah" was misapplied, or Dr.
Johnson was wrong in his etymology, for I am sure there is
wood in abundance of one kind or the other. A great
number of wild cattle inhabit this part of the country, de-
riving, it is said, a plentiful supply of nutriment from the
herbage found there.
On our return to English Harbour, along the same road,
we had a glimpse of " Indian Creek," so famous in " story,"
which meanders through verdantly -decked shores in a pic-
turesque manner. It derives its name from an engagement
which took place upon its banks, between a party of Caribs,
(or Indians,) narrated in the following " Legend."
Once more entering the village of English Harbour, we
proceeded to the house of W. C. Brooks, Esq., where we
rested for some time, experiencing those nameless acts of
hospitality for which the Antiguans are noted ; and where I
willingly laved my burning temples with the fragrant " Eau
de Cologne." Really, this marching and counter-march-
ing, beneath a tropical sun, is no slight matter, let my readers
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 285
think as they may, *' Sol" visits the face with many a fiery
mark, and if he kisses, he leaves his sting behind. I felt
glad when we once more took our way to town ; and
although no lovely moon was abroad,
" the floor of Heaven
Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold,"
which sufficed to light us gloriously on our way, and bring
us in safety to Spring Gardens.
CHAPTER XXIII.
ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
% XegerrtJ of tije Sairannartj.
The sun was rapidly sinking in the west, but its declining
beams only threw upon every object a richer tone of colour,
as a party, consisting of three persons, emerged from a small
shrubbery, and halted upon the brow of a shelving hill.
The foremost of the party was a man who probably verged
upon the mellow age of fifty ; but his eagle-eye, and stalwart
frame, told that his years sat light upon him. He was what
would have been termed a handsome man ; but a supercilious
curl of his upper lip, and an expression of scornful indiffer-
ence, which, though apparently suppressed, lingered in his
dark hazel eye, added to a brow furrowed by deep lines, and
compressed by slumbering passions, which only waited the
spur of the moment to be called into action, detracted from
the otherwise agreeable character of his features, and effec-
tually forbid any approach to familiarity. A deep and un-
sightly scar, the effects of a sabre-cut, which, commencing
from the right ear, traversed the jaw, injured yet further his
good looks. He was habited in a complete suit of black
velvet, of the richest texture; the sombreness of which was
in some measure relieved by diamond clasps, and small knee-
buckles of the same costly stones. A small collar of the
286 ZULM1ERA, THE HALF-CAREB GIRL.
finest lawn made its appearance above the doublet ; and a
black-sheathed " AndrSa Ferrara," with basket hilt, dangling
from his* side, and calf-skin boots, completed his costume.
This dress, fitting tight to his shape, shewed to advantage
the large but perfect symmetry of his person; while the
dark brown hair, sprinkled here and there with the grey
badge of declining years, cropt close around his temples ;
and the steeple-crowned hat peculiar to his sect and times,
bespoke him, what he was, the friend of Cromwell — the
roundhead governor of Antigua.
The next person that gained the open ground was Bridget,
the beautiful daughter of the governor. If ever there was a
personification of extreme loveliness, it was known in Bridget.
Scarcely seventeen, her slight but rounded figure, and her
sweet, mild face, while it struck the beholder with admira-
tion, and riveted his attention, gave the idea of some embo-
died sylph. Her complexion was of that ethereal tint of which
the poet says —
" Oh, call it fair, not pale."
The lily could scarcely outvie it in purity of colour, although
every emanation of her guileless heart called up the latent
rose-tint into her delicate cheek ; while the small, pouting
lip, with all the rich glow of the coral, forbid effectually the
supposition of ill health. A slightly aquiline nose, a classi-
cally-formed and dimpled chin, with a fair and open fore-
head, in which every azure vein could be traced, were the
prominent features ; blended with that mingled sweetness,
that feminine grace, and that inexpressible something, which
really and actually constitutes beauty. But her eyes — those
soft, lovely eyes — look at them, as she raises the long lashes,
and you can fancy, that were her features devoid of any pre-
tensions to comeliness, those liquid orbs would richly com-
pensate for all. Of the clearest hazel, every glance that fell
from them spoke the inmost feelings of her soul ; and whether
they beamed forth in pity, or flashed with animation, they
equally bespoke the benevolence of her nature.
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 287
Puritan as her father was, he did not deny his daughter,
any more than himself, the use of a few ornaments ; and a
bandeau of pearls fastened around her graceful head vainly
endeavoured to restrain the abundant tresses of her soft,
glossy, brown hair, which, breaking loose, floated upon her
shoulders in natural ringlets. Her dress of dove-coloured
satin flowed in rich and ample folds to her feet, from whence
the little slipper peeped forth ; and, gathered around her
slender waist by a girdle of pearls, shewed the admirable
proportions of her figure. The stiff puritan ruff of lawn, in
which every plait could be counted, screened her neck ; but
around her small white throat was fastened a carcanet of her
favourite gems, not purer in tint than her own fair skin.
A wimple of the same colour as her dress, and lined with
pale rose tiffany, was tied under her little rounded chin,
but which, in the joyousness of her nature, she had un-
fastened, that she might more fully enjoy the beauties of the
evening.
The remaining individual that formed the trio was in
every respect far different from those already described ;
yet, as she stood a few paces behind Bridget — to mark the
difference in their rank, although near enough to join in the
conversation — her lofty and commanding figure called equally
for attention and admiration. The clear olive tinge of her
complexion, the large black eye, which sparkled with dazzling
light, and the long coal-black hair, braided and twined round
and round her head, told that she was not of the same
country, or the same people as her mistress. Servant —
slave as she was — she looked born to command ; and daring
must that person be who would encounter for the second
time the flash of her offended eye. Formed in a larger
mould than Bridget, her figure still bore the utmost sym-
metrical proportions ; and the rounded arm and taper fingers
might have served as a model for the Goddess of Beauty :
this female was Zulmiera — the half-Carib girl.
The mother of Zulmiera was a very beautiful Carib
woman, who, in that disgraceful partition of them among the
288 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CABIB GIRL.
Euglish, (after the massacre of their male friends at St; Kitts
during Sir Thomas Warner's government of that island,)
fell to the share of a young Englishman, a follower of Sir
Thomas Warner* son, in his after colonization of Antigua.
Xamba accompanied her master to his new residence, and
there bore him a daughter ; but dying soon after, the infant
was brought up in the governor's family. After the reduc-
tion of Antigua by Sir George Ayscue, and the establishment
of a republican governor, in place of the opposer of Crom-
well's power, Zulmiera, who was rapidly attaining the full
burst of womanhood, was, at the earnest entreaties of Bridget
Everard, who was charmed with the untutored graces of
the beautiful Indian maiden, promoted to the office of her
companion. It must be allowed, that this appointment met
not with the full approval of the governor. Violently
attached to Cromwell, and bearing bitter hatred to the
royalist party, and all malignants, he thought the girl had
been too long nurtured in their principles to make a faithful
attendant to the daughter of a republican. But Bridget was
his only child, — a motherless girl ; and stern and unbending
as he was to others, his iron mood gave way before her
playful caresses.
Still there was another and deep cause of dislike he had
against Zulmiera. Upon further acquaintance with this
Indian girl, he found her too haughty for his own arrogant
spirit to deal with. Too high-minded and forgetful of her
real rank as a servant, and apparently under the impression
that, while attending upon her mistress, she was in fact her
equal, if not her superior.
Zulmiera was, in truth, fully alive to this sentiment.
She looked upon herself as the descendant (on her mother's
side) of a long line of chiefs — of those who had once
been rulers in the land, and who had received from their
swarthy subjects the homage that monarchs of a more
civilized nation were wont to receive.
Thinking thus of Zulmiera, no wonder that the governor
distrusted her. Nor was the girl ignorant of his opinion of
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 289
her ; and consequently their feelings of dislike were mutual.
She knew he hated her ; and he felt that in her heart she
despised him. Still, she loved Bridget — for who could not
love that mild, fair girl? — loved her with an intensity of
fervour, unknown to the inhabitants of colder climes — and
would have shed for her her heart's best blood ; for love and
hatred were to Zulmiera all-absorbing passions. Yet there
was another who held the first place in Zulmiera's heart, —
one that was to the half-instructed, half-Indian girl — her
"idol god."
But to return to the movements of the trio. Having left
the concealment of the shrubbery, the whole party paused,
and with different feelings gazed upon the landscape stretched
before them. The slight declivity upon the brow of which
they were standing, had been cleared, and was now planted
with tobacco, whose broad green leaves, and delicate trumpet
flowers, attracted the attention of numerous gorgeous insects.
This plantation stretched to the end of a wild copse, where
every native shrub and brushwood grew together with the
loftier trees, and formed an almost impervious thicket.
Beyond this copse, the waters of a beautiful creek, which
ran a short way inland, glittered like gold m the beams of
the setting sun ; while on every side rose undulating hills,
begirt with many an infant plantation, belonging to some of.
the earlier settlers. Further off, the broad ocean stretched
its interminable waves, its billows sleeping in calmness ;
except in one part, where a long ridge of shelving rocks
fretted them into motion, and caused them to send forth their
angry roar.*
At the bottom of the hill upon which they were standing
ran a bridle-path, which, winding in and out, branched off in
two directions ; one passing through the populous town of
Falmouth, the other extending to the shores of a beautiful
harbour,f where some industrious settlers were cultivating the
adjoining country. Along this path a single horseman was
• Now called the Memora's. f Now called English Harbour.
VOL. I. O
290 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CAREB GIRL.
seen slowly advancing, in the direction of the harbour. As
he gained the skirts of the hill, he reined up for a moment
his prancing steed, and, looking towards the party, raised his
plumed hat and bent forward in graceful obeisance. The
dark eyes of Zulmiera sparkled with delight, and standing, as
she did, behind the governor and his daughter, unseen by
them, she raised her hand and waved a return, while, at the
same instant, the rosiest blush sprang to the cheeks of
Bridget, and crimsoned her very throat. The horseman
again bent his head, and then, replacing his hat, shook the
broidered reins and galloped off in the direction he had
chosen for his equestrian amusement.
Following with his eye the plumed stranger until he was
lost in the intervening copse, the governor turned to his
daughter, and fixing a steady, penetrating glance upon her,
exclaimed, " Ha ! then the young malign ant's designs appear
to be more open than they were. But, mark me, daughter
Bridget," and his eye became sterner and darker as the
pupil dilated with his awakening passion, and his haughty
lip curled with increased scorn — " mark me, Bridget, sooner
than I'd see thee mated with one of his malignant race, mine
own hand should stretch thee at my feet a breathless corpse !
— yea, as Jephtha slew his daughter, so would I slay thee !"
The agitated and frightened girl threw herself upon her
father's breast, and, amid tears and sobs, stammered out —
" Father — dearest father ! think not so. Raphe de Mere-
field is naught to me ; he never spoke to me but with the
most studied politeness, and, indeed, he shuns rather than
seeks my presence. " — u 'Tis well, then, maiden — my sus-
picions are unfounded ; the wolf has not entered the sheep-
fold to steal the tender lamb ; but I have observed him
lately wandering about these grounds, and I feared my
daughter was the object. But listen !" and again his eye
flashed, his lip trembled — " verily, 1 know that young man
well — ay, better than he knows me — for his father was my
neighbour and my deadliest foe ! — and what was more, the
foe of Cromwell ! He it was that assisted that tyrannical
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 291
man, Charles Stuart, in his escape from Hampton Court,
and after aided him in his long struggles to maintain posses-
sion of a crown which had long been doomed to destruction.
He it was that beggared his brother to obtain money to
carry out that well-slain tyrant's nefarious designs ! And
he it was that, at the battle of Naseby, gave me this ugly
sign of recognition/' pointing to the scar which disfigured
his cheek. But was he not discomfited ? Yea, as the dry
leaf he fell. Lo ! as David girded up his strength in the
day of battle, so girded I up mine; and as he smote his
enemies with the edge of the sword, so my trusty weapon
stretched the haughty Philistine upon the ground, never to
rise again ! Guess, then, if thou canst, how much I love
yon cavalier, who hath sucked in with his very milk the
taint of papistry — for did not that Babylonish woman whom
men call the Queen of England rear him up from his cradle ?
yea, and taught him all her sorceries. Had my honoured
friend and master, the protector, followed my advice, this
young traitor to the commonwealth would never have
escaped from England to disseminate his malignant poison
abroad. Cromwell should have crushed the egg before it
was hatched. But verily I wax hot and am impatient, not
considering the time approacheth when rebels and arch-
rebels shall melt away as the hoar frost melteth before the
sun. Despatches have reached me that it is Cromwell's in-
tention to send, in the course of a few months, a squadron
against St. Domingo, and my instructions are to see that a
proper troop be raised in this island to join the expedition.
I am resolved that Master Raphe de Merefield be one of the
gallants who shall serve in that affair ; a goodly bullet-shot
or, albeit, a well-applied stroke from the rapier of a
Spaniard, may relieve me from his machinations ; or should
he refuse to fight under the banner of the commonwealth,
verily, I know the malignancy of his father cleaves so closely
to him, that it will only be maintaining Cromwell's interest
to have him properly secured, or we may see another revolt
when we least expect it." Thus saying, the governor
o 2
292 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
walked forward a few paces, and shading his eyes from the
lingering sunbeams, scanned for a few moments the scene
before him.
What passed in the mind of Bridget during the foregoing
conversation it is unnecessary to relate, but the emotions
called up in the heart of the Carib girl while hearing her
lover thus traduced were violent and various. Hate, scorn,
and revenge, fired her eye, and sent a torrent of hot blood
through her veins, which, rushing to her face, turned the
clear olive to a fiery crimson. Yet so well was she accus-
tomed to master her feelings, that before her young mistress
was sufficiently recovered to commence another dialogue,
she stood the same apparently calm being, her hands folded
across her breast ; and only that her eye was more dilated,
and her cheek still slightly tinged, none could tell that
aught had moved her.
An exclamation from the governor, who had, for the last
few minutes, been intently gazing in one direction, arrested
his daughter's attention, and, gliding to his elbow, she in-
quired if he addressed her. " Look, Bridget," replied her
father, in a still stern, but not unmusical voice — " look o'er
yonder grove — dost thou see aught moving ?" — " Nothing,
dearest father," answered the maiden, in her own sweet
tones — u nothing but the bland zephyr sporting amid the
young green leaves, and playing its fairy music upon them. ,,
" Foolish enthusiast ! But haste, girl ! — fetch me the
wondrous instrument the lord-general gave me, and let me
give yon grove a sharper look — methinks it contains more
inmates than we wot of. I have heard of wild Indians and
their deeds."
Roused by his remarks, Zulmiera started forward, and
in an agitated voice which she in vain tried to stifle, ex-
claimed, " Oh, no, your excellency, naught is there, save,
as the Lady Bridget saith, the whispering wind or the fly-
birds as they seek their leafy bower." a Back, girl !'* fiercely
retorted the governor — " back to thy place ; who taught thee
to hazard thy remarks ? Methinks thy cavalier masters
might have made thee know thy station better/'
A LEGEND OF THE 8AVANNAH. 293
Again the blood rushed to the cheek and temples of
Zulmiera — again the eye flashed fire — but again she mas-
tered her emotions ; exclaiming, however, as she did so,
but in a voice too subdued to reach her companion's ear,
" Rest till to-morrow's night, proud man, then wilt thou
learn who governs here I"
At this moment, Bridget placed in her father's hand the
lately invented telescope,* when, raising it to his eye, he
narrowly observed the whole breadth of the copse ; the dis-
tant creek and the farther ocean ; but nothing met his eye —
nothing, save the wavy green, or the wing of a weary sea-
fowl as it sought its nest. Slowly dropping the instrument,
the governor once more gazed with his naked eye in that
direction. The sun had set some minutes before, and as the
last of his golden beams faded in the west, he turned upon
his heel, and, followed by the females, was once more lost
in the verdant shrubbery.
CHAPTER XXIV.
CONTINUATION OF THE LEGEND.
It was a calm, delicious, West Indian night. The moon
shone in all her glory, bathing lawn and lea, upland and
woodland, in her silvery light. The waters of the creek we
have already noticed were rife with beauty; and the waves of
the far-off ocean, as they dashed in measured cadence on the
beach, broke musically upon the listener's ear.
A stately figure, enveloped in a dark mantle, glided from
behind a screen of lime and coffee trees ; and gaining the
open ground, looked cautiously around. As if assured its
movements were unobserved, the figure darted off at a rapid
pace in the direction of a magnificent grove ; but with steps
* Telescopes were said to have been invented daring the reign of
James I., although some attribute the invention to Roger Bacon, 1292.
294 ZULMIERA, THE UALF-CARIB GULL.
so light, that it would scarcely have crushed the lowliest
flower. Upon reaching the verge of the grove, it stopped;
and placing a finger upon a small gittern,* carried beneath
the ample cloak, struck a single note. The crushing of the
younger twigs and leaves told that the signal was heard ; and
springing from the covert, a young man bounded forward,
exclaiming — " Zulmiera I dearest Zulmiera ! how long thou
hast stayed to-night !"
The moon still shone with a clear and fervent light, dis-
playing every object in a distinct manner, and shewing the
picturesque dress of the impassioned stranger to the best
advantage. His figure was slight but perfectly formed,
while his fair skin and glowing cheeks bespoke his Saxon
origin. His eyes were of the clearest blue, and his long auburn
locks, parted in the middle of his forehead, flowed over his
shoulders, in length and profusion equalling a woman's. A
slight moustache shaded his upper lip, which, slightly curved,
displayed a set of teeth faultless in size and colour. His dress,
fashioned in that superb style which the followers of Charles
loved to indulge in, consisted of a doublet of three-piled
murrey- colour velvet, pinked and slashed with white satin,
and ornamented with elaborate embroidery, his falling band,
or collar, of the richest point lace, and his nether garments
to match with the doublet, were finished at the knees with
white satin roses and diamond studs. A small but admira-
bly tempered Toledo, the hilt of solid gold, and sparkling
with diamonds, was strapped to his side by an embroid-
ered belt; while a Flemish beaver hat, looped with a
diamond button, and surrounded by a snowy plume, shaded
his somewhat boyish features. A dark short cloak, lined
with white tafiety, which he had flung aside when spring-
ing to meet Zulmiera, floated from behind his right shoulder,
and served to give him still more an air of graceful ele-
gance.
" Dearest Zulmiera," said the young stranger, when
* A kind of small guitar, in use about the 16th and 17 th centuries.
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 295
seated upon the trunk of a large tree, which, uprooted by a
former hurricane, and slightly covered by a little alluvial
earth, had shot forth a few sickly branches — " dearest
Zulmiera, how long I have waited for you — how much I have
to tell you ! I have watched each star as it peeped forth
from the heavens — heard the shrill pipe of the curlew as it
flew to its nest — but listened in vain for your light footstep ;
say, dearest, what kept you from the trysting-tree ?" <c I
was in attendance upon my mistress until this late hour,"
replied Zulmiera, speaking in an ironical tone, and laying a
strong emphasis upon the word mistress, while a slight look
of scorn passed over her animated features ; " or else doubt
not I would have met you long before ; for where, Raphe,
would the bird with weary wing seek for rest but by the
side of its own fond mate ? or why should yon white flower,"
pointing to a night-jasmine which was growing in all its wild
luxuriance near the spot, and loading the air with sweet and
powerful perfume — " why should yon white flower haste to
open its pretty leaves, as soon as the day melts away, were
it not to seek the fond love of those beautiful stars which
are twinkling above us ? Raphe, you are my mate, and
your eyes are my stars, in which I read my destiny."
To this fond but fanciful rhapsody, Raphe de Merefield
made no answer, except by pressing the beautiful hand
which rested in his ; and the half-Carib continued : " But it
was not to tell you this, Raphe, that brought me here so late
to-night. Come with me." And suffering himself to be
led by her, they quitted the deep recess in which they had
been seated, and walked into the open ground already
mentioned.
Looking up the ascent above the tops of the trees, which
grew in vast profusion, forming a complete barrier around,
the moon-beams fell upon the roof of an irregular but com-
modious building. This was government house, and through
an opening in the leafy enclosure, the light of a taper was
seen brightly shining from a small diamond-pane casement,
in one of the gable ends of the edifice. " In that room,"
296 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARlB GIRL.
said the romantic girl, directing Raphe's attention to it,
" sleeps one, who, next to yourself, I love most on earth ;
and scornfully, harshly as her father has treated me, she
must and shall be saved ! Mark me, Raphe, an' thou lovest
me, guard the Lady Bridget as thou wouldst a sister. Wild
spirits will be abroad ere the glad sun shall set and rise again,
or yon pretty stars be peeping at us ; and though I think
they will care for mine as they would me, still, Raphe, I
would have thee prepared. When all is over — when you
and I but I need say no more, except that Bridget shall
not then be ashamed to love the despised, the scorned Zul-
miera," and as she spoke, she threw back her graceful head
with the air of a Cleopatra, while the bright crimson mantled
in her cheeks, and increased the lustre of her eyes.
" What mean you, Zulmiera ?" inquired the young cava-*
lier, as soon as he could make himself heard ; for her utter-
ance during the preceding speech had been so rapid, and
her manner so excited, that all his former attempts to inter-
rupt her had been useless. " What mean you, dearest
Zulmiera ? Why this flashing eye — this agitated mien ?
Is it because yon king-killing, canting Puritan, called you
servant, that these wild dreams (for I know not what else
to term them) are floating through your brain ? Never
heed him, dearest ; you will soon be my bride, my acknow-
ledged wife ; and then let me see who dare call you servant,
or taunt you with your birth ! Know that I love one tress
of this black hair" — and he drew her fondly towards him —
" better than all the fair ringlets and fairer skins of Eng-
land's boasted daughters. But draw your mantle closer
round you, and let us to our former seat, where I will relate
to you all my plans. — You know," resumed Raphe, as they
gained their resting-place upon the old tree, " that after the
unfortunate battle of Naseby, upon which bloody field my
brave father fell, fighting for his lawful sovereign against
those long-eared Roundheads, (to which sect our notable
governor belongs I) my widowed mother, seized with an
irrepressible panic, fled from England, carrying me, then a
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 297
stripling of about fourteen, along with her. Our first place
of refuge was Holland, where the queen, whose godson I
have the honour to be, had sought safety some time before.
But my mother, disliking the country, and having received
letters from her husband's brother, my revered uncle, whose
namesake I am, offering her an asylum in Antigua, she de-
termined to avail herself of his kindness. Thus it was I
became a resident in this island ; and during my frequent
visits at government house, when loyalty ruled there, I met
my dearest Zulmiera. You are aware, I believe, that my
uncle, who was formerly a merchant of the city of London,
was joined with Sir Thomas Warner in a grant of land
situated in this island, the grantor of which was the martyr
Charles. Upon part of that land the brother of young
Phillip Warner is erecting a new dwelling, and cultivating
the surrounding country. It will be a fine place when it is
finished ; and Warner deserves it should be, for he made a
gallant defence in 1651, when old Noll sent Sir George
Ayscue to reduce this island, because, forsooth, it stood out
for its lawful sovereign. But to resume my story, which
the brave actions of Mr. Warner drove from my head. To-
day, I confided to my mother our mutual engagement ; she
has listened to the voice of her only, her beloved son, and
is prepared to receive you as a daughter. To-morrow, I
will call upon the governor— although I hate the sight of
him, from his high-crowned hat down to his ugly looking
calf-skins — and make my proposals in form. If he consents
with a good grace, well ; if not, I feel assured my dear
Zulmiera will not fear to leave his house and protection for
the home and hearth of one who loves her as I do. I still
hope that our own King Charles (God bless him !) may
overcome his enemies, and be seated upon the throne of his
fathers ; then will we visit old England, and in my own
paternal mansion, I've no doubt I shall get my handsome
Zulmiera to forget her native island and all her wild dreams."
So saying, with a look of strong affection and with gallant
bearing, he raised her hand to his lips.
o3
298 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
" Ob, Raphe !" said the agitated girl, as her lover con-
cluded his relation, to which she had listened with breathless
attention ; " oh. Raphe ! had I known this but even ten days
agone, how much might I, how much might we all have
been spared. But I thought your mother would never have
consented that the governor's servant should mate with her
noble son — and my own high spirit, goaded on as it has been
by the scornful usage I have met, has led me to do a deed
which may, perhaps, dash the cup of happiness from my lips.
But, then/ 1 she murmured, as if more in communion with her-
self than in reply to her companion, " but then to be a queen,
and Raphe (they promised that, or I would never have con-
sented) to be a king. No, it must be : I have gone too far
to turn back;" and she raised her head, and looked stead-
fastly, but apparently half-unconsciously at the young man,
who, surprised at her behaviour and language, was gazing
intently upon her. At length, slightly shaking her hand to
arrest her attention, he inquired again the cause of her ex-
treme emotion. Receiving no reply from Zulmiera, whose
large dark eyes were still fixed upon his face, he became
seriously alarmed, and, in an anxious tone, entreated her
to quit directly the night air, and seek that repose she ap-
peared to need so much, within the precincts of government
house. Allowing herself to be led in that direction, they in
silence gained the shrubbery ; when, after asking in vain for
an explanation, and hearing her again and again express
her assurance that she was not seriously indisposed, Raphe
de Meretield bade her good even. As he turned to leave
the spot, Zulmiera appeared to recover herself, and drawing
a long breath, exclaimed " To-morrow, dear Raphe, to-
morrow thou shalt know all — till then, farewell !"
For some moments after the departure of the young
cavalier, Zulmiera remained standing in the same posture ;
and then, suddenly rousing herself, she gazed once more
earnestly around, and finding ail still, stepped without the
bounds of the shrubbery, and retracing her steps, once more
gained the border of the copse. She was about to make
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 299
use of an arranged signal, when a dark figure came bound-
ing over a natural mound, formed by wild plants and brush-
wood, and in another instant stood before her.
Near seven feet in height, and of corresponding* breadth
of shoulder, the stranger looked able to compete with a
dozen men of ordinary growth, while his whole appearance
was such as to strike terror into the heart of the beholder.
Attired in a garment of dark red cloth, which only covered
his person from his waist to his knees, the remainder of his
body was painted in a most hideous manner. A black
leathern belt, passing over his brawny shoulders, supported
a huge naked broad-sword, doubtless obtained in some
predatory exploit, whose edge was blunted and hacked by
many a rough encounter, dangled by his side, or struck
harmlessly against his naked legs. His face, the features of
which were naturally good, was disfigured by grotesque
colourings, and horrible scars ; while his long black hair, to
which was fastened small pieces of copper, brass buttons,
and tufts of parrot feathers, floated behind him in matted
locks, and gave him the appearance of a wandering gnome.
An old regimental coat, from which part of the lace had
been cut, and which was another of his war spoils, was tied
around his neck by the two sleeves, serving the purpose of a
cloak ; and upon his breast reposed — a silent but melancholy
memento of his habits— a string of human teeth, their dead
white contrasting vividly with his dark skin. This stranger
was Cuanaboa, the dreaded Carib chief.
Rendering to Zulmiera his simple obeisance, he com-
menced the conversation by remarking in a barbarous kind
of dialect, Ci the Boyez* gave the time to meet when the big
star," pointing to the moon, " rose above the hill, and the
lady promised to obey ; but now it's shining o'er our heads,
and the charm may be broken — the bow may indeed be
bent, and the arrow speed on its way, and yet fall to the
ground wide of the mark. We meet to-night, 'tis true ; but
* A priest, or magician, among the Caribs.
300 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
the time the Boyez appointed is long past, and now perhaps
our purpose may fail, and our enemies escape.'* " Oh, no !
Cuanaboa, believe not so," replied Zulmiera ; " listen not to
the wild words of the old Boyez ; thinkest thou I care for
what he saith ?" <' Ay, lady, but thou art fallen from the
faith of thy fathers — thou hast lived too long with the
Christians ; but it matters not now, let us talk of our plans.
Myself and comrades have agreed to lead the attack upon
yonder house about this time to-morrow night, and we look
to you to draw from their weapons those little round stones
which kill so many of us, we know not how. Guacanagari
has joined me with twice so many men, (holding up his
hand, and spreading out his fingers,) and as fine a canoe as
ever was paddled along these seas. He landed with his party
just as the sun touched the waters ; an hour badly chosen by
him, for too many eyes are then abroad. I hope, though,
none saw them but their red brothers, for they skulked along
by the thickest part of the woods ; and now their canoe lies
high and dry, beneath the shelter of yon high banks, while
they repose in safety in the cave,* attended by old Quiba.
Now, lady, as, when the white men are subdued, and, falling
beneath our clubs, or transfixed by our arrows, serve us as
sacrifices to May boy a, f we are to look upon you as our
Queen "
" And Raphe as your king" interrupted Zulmiera, in
hurried accents. " You promised that, or I would never
have agreed to what I have ; and had I known Cuanaboa as
much as I do to-night, even that scheme of grandeur would
not have tempted me to turn traitor, to promise, as 1 have,
to open the doors, where I have lived so long, to give en-
trance to the enemy, and to lull their fears, while the worse
than blood-hounds were upon their steps. Oh, Cuanaboa !
I might have been so very happy, had I only waited in
patience for a little time — happier as plain Mistress de Mere-
field, than I shall be, perhaps, as queen of the Caribbees ;
* Now called Bat's Cave. f Supreme deity among the Caribs.
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 301
but it is do use repining now ; I have given my word, and,
right or wrong, Zulmiera will stand by it."
The long eyelashes fell over her burning eyes, and the
beating of her heart sounded audibly, and shook her very
frame ; but recovering herself, she continued — " There is
another subject to be discussed, Cuanaboa ; the daughter of
the governor is my dearest friend, and therefore she must
be preserved unharmed throughout the fray, guarded with
the most scrupulous care, and I look to you to place her in
safety. Dost thou comprehend what I say ?"
" Yes, lady ; and I was going to remark, when you inter-
rupted me, that as you wish certain of the enemy saved alive,
particularly the fair youth you mentioned just now, it would
be well for you to give your orders to Guacanagari ; and for
that purpose I would advise you to visit the cave to-morrow
evening, when we intend holding a serious assembly and
dance, previous to commencing the attack. Guacanagari
will be rejoiced to meet you, and he will be as fond of the
maiden and the youth as I am ;" and a very sinister expres-
sion, but unobserved by Zulmiera, passed over the face of
the Carib chief. " Besides, lady, it is but right that Gua-
canagari should know his queen — never Carib had one
before."
" I will attend," replied Zulmiera. " And now, as it is
past midnight, 'tis time we parted ;" so saying, she bowed to
the Carib, and drawing her mantle around her, walked away
with all the dignity of a sovereign.
Keeping his dark eye fixed upon her as long as she con-
tinued in sight, no sooner had the intervening shrubs screened
her from his view, than, throwing himself upon the ground,
the Carib broke into a shrill laugh. " And so the haughty
beauty thinks that a people who have scarcely known con-
trol, will bend their shoulders to the dominion of a girl and
a white-faced boy ! — ha ! ha ! If the wild kites chose a
king, would it be a colibri ?* No ! Should the Caribs fol-
* The Indian name for the humming bird.
302 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
low the custom of the strangers who have come among us,
and torn away our most fruitful countries, and own a king,
who should it be but Cuanaboa ? for who has slain so many
enemies and drunk their blood as I have ? or who can shew
a longer string of teeth than I have here ?" and he played
with the one which ornamented his neck. " If Zulmiera will
be queen, it must be as my wife ; and truly she would serve
to swell a richer triumph than I even expect to have. But
as for the youth, his race is almost run ; before this time to*
morrow, I think he will give me but little further trouble.
'Tis well I came so soon to-night, and thus was witness of
the meeting. I wish I could have understood what he said ;
but these pale-faced people speak so vilely, that it is hard to
know what they mean. However, it matters not, I saw
enough ; and as I intend Zulmiera to be my prize, I will
very shortly get rid of the youngster ; he'll make a capital
sacrifice to Old Mayboya. White men eat better than red
people, it can't be denied ;" and as he finished his soliloquy,
he arose from the ground, and springing over the brush-
wood, was lost to sight in the impending copse.
CHAPTER XXV.
CONCLUSION OF THE LEGEND.
The morning after this eventful meeting rose fair and bright.
Bridget and Zulmiera, seated at an open window, inhaled
the sweet breeze, while they bent over their embroidery
frames ; and the fair Englishwoman was giving a description
of her own far-off land, when, gazing in the direction of the
before-named copse, Zulmiera espied a white feather glanc-
ing for a moment above the tops of the trees, a well-known
signal indicating the presence of Raphe de Merefield.
Framing an excuse, she shortly left the apartment ; and
taking a circuitous route to escape observation, in a few
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 303
moments gained the old tree, where, as expected, she found
her lover.
" Zulmiera," said the young man, after the first greetings
were passed, " I have suffered deeply in mind since we
parted, on account of the strange words you let fall last
evening ; and I now seek your presence to demand, as your
affianced husband, their signification. Tell me, Zulmiera,
thine whole heart, or as Willy Sbakspeare saith —
« If thou dost love me,
Shew me thy thought?"
Accosted in this sudden manner, and surprised by his
serious demeanour, Zulmiera's caution forsook her, and
bursting into tears, confessed to her lover, as best she could,
the following facts. Having been treated with great scorn
and harshness by the governor, and looking upon herself as
the descendant of a line of chieftains, and consequently en-
titled to respect, a deep and irresistible feeling of revenge
sprang up in her breast, and absorbed her every thought.
Roaming, as she had ever been wont, amid the romantic
dells and leafy labyrinths of her native islands, she came one
evening upon a curious cavern ; her love of novelty led her
to inspect it, but in the act of doing so, she was driven back
in alarm by the sight of a flashing pair of eyes.
Unable to suppress her fears, yet too much overcome by
the encounter to fly, she leant against the rocky opening of
the cave ; when, rushing from his concealment, a powerful
man, whom she immediately recognised as a Carib, darted
upon her, and placing his hand upon her mouth to prevent
her screams from being heard, was about to bear her away
as his captive.
Terrified as she was, she still had the presence of mind to
declare her origin, and claim his forbearance, on the score
of their allied blood. To such a plea, a Carib's heart is
never deaf; the grasp upon the shoulder was relaxed; the
armed warrior stood quietly by her side ; and a conversation
304 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
in the Carib tongue (which Zulmiera had acquired from
her mother) was carried on between them.
The stranger declared himself to be a Carib chief, named
Cuanaboa, and with the openness for which that people
were noted among their friends, acquainted Zulmiera with
the cause of his appearance in that lone cave. Following
the example of his fathers, Cuanaboa said he had resolved
to make an attack upon Antigua, accompanied by a
neighbouring chief and their several tribes ; but in a war-
council held by them, it had been arranged for him to pay
a secret visit to the island, in order to inspect it, and endea-
vour to find out its weakest parts. Accordingly, leaving
his mountain home in Dominica, he had paddled himself
over in a slight canoe, and easily discovering the cave, which
had been well-known to the tribe in their former predatory
visits, he took up his abode there.
Zulmiera listened eagerly to this communication ; and
excited as she was, thought it a good opportunity for effec-
tually procuring her revenge. After arranging for the
safety of Raphe de Merefield, to whom she had been long
engaged, she finally promised, that upon an appointed night,
she would open the doors of government house, and admit
the band of Caribs. Ignorant of the real force of Antigua,
and led away by her own turbulent and romantic passions,
the Indian girl wrongly supposed that a few half-armed
Caribs would be able to strike terror into the breasts and
compete with the well-arranged ranks of the English. In
consequence of this wild fancy, Zulmiera further proposed, as
her reward, that when the battle was gained, and the Eng-
lish defeated, she should be immediately elected queen, and
Raphe king of the Caribbees. Many other meetings had
taken place between herself and the Carib chief; and she
concluded her relation, by informing Raphe of the arrival
of the whole band of Caribs, and that the hour of midnight
was the time proposed for the intended assault upon govern-
ment house.
The surprise, the consternation of the young man, as she
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 305
unfolded this tale to him, was overpowering, and for some
moments he remained as if rooted to the ground. At length,
striking his hand upon his forehead, he exclaimed, in a tone
of extreme bitterness — «' Oh ! Zulmiera — Zulmiera ! what
hast thou done I Surely it is some horrible dream ; and yet
it is too true ; thou couldst not have distressed me so, an* it
had not been. To-night, say est thou ? Unhappy girl, thou
hast indeed dashed the cup of happiness from thy lips ! Now
I understand thy visible emotion — thy half-smothered ex-
pressions ! But I must away — the lives of hundreds, perhaps,
hang upon my steps;" and darting from her, he left her to
the deepest feelings of despair.
Leaning against the tree for the support her own limbs
denied her, the unfortunate Zulmiera remained with her
face buried in her hands, until aroused by the sound of foot-
steps. Hastily looking up, Raphe again stood before her.
" Dearest Zulmiera," said the pitying young man — u rouse
thyself ; I cannot leave thee thus ; all may yet be well. I
will immediately to the governor, and without implicating
you as my author, inform him of the inpending attack.
Much as I dislike the man, it is my proper plan — so now
dry your eyes," for the warm tears were again gushing down
the cheeks of the repentant girl ; " return to the house, keep
yourself quiet, and trust the matter to me/' So saying, he
imprinted a fond kiss upon her brow, and turning away,
hastened with a quick step in the opposite direction.
Mastering her emotions, Zulmiera returned to her home,
determined, when the evening fell, to seek the cave, and if
possible, persuade Cuanaboa of the impracticability of his
schemes, and by that means, prevent the effusion of blood,
which a meeting of the Caribs and English was sure to pro-
duce.
In the meantime, Raphe sought the presence of the
governor, and without bringing forward Zulmiera's name,
contrived to give him the necessary information, and then
departed, taking upon himself the office of scout. Prepara--
tions were immediately made for the intended attack — am*
306 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CAR1B GIRL.
buscades arranged, and fire-arms cleaned ; and with anxiety
the party awaited the rising of the moon.
As the day grew to a close, Zulmiera became more and
more restless, until at length, unable to bear the conflict of
her feelings, she left the house, and, unperceived by the
family, sought the promised meeting in the cave. The sun
had sunk behind the waves, and the stars began to peep
forth, as the half-Carib gained the entrance of the wood.
Carefully threading her way through its tangled bushes, and
avoiding as she went the numerous impediments, she gra-
dually progressed deeper and deeper in its thickening gloom.
The air was calm, and nothing disturbed the almost pristine
stillness but the whisperings of the soft breeze, or the shrill
cry of some of the aquatic fowls who made that lonely
grove their home. In some parts the foliage was less thick,
and the beams of the now rising moon forced their way
through and snorted upon the ground, forming many a fan-
tastic shadow. Uprooted and sapless trees lay in various
directions, around which parasites wound in luxuriant beauty,
and hid the whitened wood in wreaths of green. In other
parts, the larger trees and shrubs made way for dense
thickets of thorny underwood, over which the active girl
was obliged to leap.
Onward she sped, stopping only now and then to recover
her breath, and then darting forward at increased speed,
until, gaining a little knoll, where pointed crystals strewed
the ground, and the manchineel showered its poisonous apples,
beautiful and treacherous as " Dead Sea fruits," a mark in
one of the trees told her she was near the place of her desti-
nation ; and winding round another thicket, Zulmiera stood
before the mouth of the cave.
The interior was lighted by a few torches of some resinous
wood, stuck in the fissures of the rock ; and their flickering
light shone upon the dark countenances and wild costume
of the inmates. Branches of trees roughly plaited together
were placed partly before the opening, and served to screen
the light of the torches from the view of any wandering
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 307
stranger ; while the ground before the entrance to the cave
had been cleared away, forming a kind of rustic amphi-
theatre.
As soon as the maiden was perceived, Cuanaboa came
forward, and introduced her to Guacanagari, and a few of
their principal followers, who only appeared to be waiting
for her presence, to commence their solemn dance, as was
ever the custom of the Caribs, before undertaking any
warfare.
Darting from the cavern, about twenty of these wild war-
riors arranged themselves in a circle around an old woman,
known among them by the name of Quiba, who, squatting
upon the ground, chanted, in a monotonous voice, the burden
of a war-song: the men moving slowly, and joining in the
chorus — "Avenge the bones of your fathers, which lie whiten-
ing upon the plain/" Continuing this revolving motion for
some time, but gradually increasing in celerity, they at length
appeared as if worked up to the highest pitch of their pas-
sions ; and releasing each other's hands, and twirling round
and round with the greatest rapidity, tearing their hair, and
gnashing their teeth, at length threw themselves upon the
ground, foaming with rage.
Zulmiera, terrified at their frantic movements and horrid
contortions, tremblingly leant against the trunk of a tree,
until, aroused by an exclamation from the old woman, she
perceived another party of savages, apparently of meaner
grade, bringing in large calabashes and baskets, huge pieces
pf baked meats, and bowls of some kind of liquids. Placing
them upon the ground, they retreated ; and old Quiba, quit-
ting her recumbent posture, seized upon one of the pieces
of meat, and throwing it among the prostrate warriors,
exclaimed, in a cracked voice — "Eat of the flesh of your
enemies, and avenge your fathers'* bones!"
As she uttered these words, the men sprang from the
ground, and rushing upon the viands, devoured them with
savage greediness ; while Cuanaboa, lifting up one of the
smaller pieces of meat, approached Zulmiera, and, with
308 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARTB GIRL.
harshness, requested her to eat it. Alarmed at his ferocious
manner, but not daring to shew it, the trembling girl essayed
to obey ; and putting a portion of it into her mouth, by a
strong effort swallowed it. No sooner was this effected, than,
breaking into a horrid laugh, and with his eyes gleaming like
the hyaena's, Cuanaboa shouted to the old woman, who had
just before entered the cave — '* Bring forth our present for
our queen ; surely, she deserves it, now she is one of us I 9 '
Startled by his evident irony, Zulmiera turned round, at
the moment that Quiba emerged from a natural passage in
the interior of the cave, bearing in her hand a small bundle,
which, with a sardonic grin, she laid at the feet of the
observant girl. " There,, lady; that is our first present,"
croaked forth the old hag. " Ay, lift it up, and search it
well ; Mayboya will stand your friend, and send you many
more, I hope/' So saying, she hobbled up to one of the
torches, and taking it from its resting-place, held it before
the face of Zulmiera.
Impelled by an irresistible desire to know the worst,
Zulmiera stooped and undid the folds of red cloth wound
around their proffered gift. After untwining it for some
time, the wrapping felt damp to the touch ; and dreading she
knew not what, she loosed the last fold, and a human head
rolled upon the ground.
Uttering a cry of horror, but forced on by her unconquer-
able emotions, she turned the gory object round; and as the
torches flashed with further glare, her eye fell upon the
pallid features. The blue eye, glassed by the hand of death,
and over which the starting eyelids refused to droop— the
parted lips, parted with the last throe of agony, and shewing
the pearly teeth — the finely-moulded cheeks, but disfigured
by a deep gash — and the long auburn hair> dabbled with the
blood that still oozed from the severed veins, bespoke it
Raphe de Merefield's ! Her own blood congealed around
her heart like ice — her pulse quivered and stopped — and with
one unearthly, prolonged shriek, the unfortunate Zulmiera
sank senseless upon the ground.
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 309
Recovered by the means of some pungent herb applied to
her nostrils, by the hands of Quiba, she awoke to all her
misery. Her eyes fell again upon the mutilated head of her
lover ; While the demoniac voice of Cuanaboa whispered in
her ear — u . The food you partook of just now was part of
the body of your minion/ I met him wandering in the copse
a time agone ; and I thought he would make a fine sacrifice
to Mayboya." This last horrible information completely
altered her nature, and changed the fond loving girl to the
disposition of a fiend. Lifting up the head, and imprinting
upon the blood-stained lips one long fervent kiss, she enve-
loped it again in the wrappings of red cloth, and carefully
binding it around her waist, was in the act of quitting the
cave, when arrested by the powerful grasp of Cuanaboa.
" Not so fast, lady !" exclaimed the Carib chief; " remem-
ber your oath to Mayboya I We still stand in need of your
assistance to guide us to the house of yon white chief.
Remember that was part of your bargain : let us in ; and
when we have vanquished the enemy, we shall still be willing
to receive you as our queen ; that is, if you will agree to take
me for your king instead of the pale-faced boy, whose body
has served to regale us and our people." With eyes* that
flashed fire, Zulmiera was about to reply, when suddenly
constraining herself, she simply muttered — " My oath to May-
boya ! — follow me, then I" and with determined purpose,
left the cavern.
The whole party of Caribs, consisting of about eighty, were
by this time gathered around the spot, armed with bows and
arrows, clubs, darts, spears, and all the otlier rude imple-
ments of warfare. As the two chiefs made their appear-
ance, they pointed to the moon — then rapidly ascending the
heavens — and uttering a suppressed war-whoop, they com-
menced their march in the direction of government house,
preceded by the half- Carib.
Unconscious of pain, Zulmiera darted through the thorniest
thickets, turned not aside for any impediment ; but borne
up by the hopes of revenge, she* outstripped the most active
310 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-GARIB GIRL.
of the party. Knowing, as she did, that the inmates of
government house were prepared for the attack, she felt
assured that few, if any, of the Caribs would escape; but
completely altered in disposition, from the effects of the
horrible scenes she had gone through, she experienced no
compunctious feelings for the event. Her only wish, her
fixed purpose, was to possess herself of a dagger — stab
Cuanaboa to the heart — drink his warm blood as it gushed
forth — and after bathing the head of her lover with it, kill
herself upon the spot. To deceive Cuanaboa, she pre-
tended that her fear of Mayboya led her to conduct the
party, an assurance which his own blind zeal for that dreaded
deity caused him to believe.
In furtherance of her dreadful scheme, she carefully
avoided those spots where she supposed an ambuscade of
English might be stationed ; fearing lest some other hand
should take the life of the chief. In this manner she was
gradually progressing towards the house, thinking it more
probable a weapon could be there procured, when in passing
a clump of trees, one of the governor's scouts, who was
stationed behind it, and who was unable to bear the sight of
the Carib chief so near him without endeavouring to take
his life, sprang from his concealment, and rushing upon
Cuanaboa, was in the act of stabbing hirn with a dirk, when,
with the cry of some infuriated wild animal robbed of its
prey, Zulmiera was upon him. Wresting the weapon from
the astonished Englishman, the maddened girl fled after the
Caribs, who, abashed by this encounter, and the sudden
appearance of a troop of soldiers, were flying in the greatest
confusion, and at their utmost speed, in direction of the
before-named creek, where they had left their canoes.
Many of the Caribs fell wounded by the way, from the
fire of their pursuers' muskets ; but Cuanaboa, closely at-
tended by Zulmiera, still kept on, until after passing over the
same undulating ground, forcing their way through thickets,
leaping over natural barriers, and creeping through leafy
arcades, they gained upon the creek. But woe to the Caribs !
A LEGEND OF THE SAVANNAH. 311
a party of English, in hot pursuit, were, in fact, driving them
into a trap, at the point of their weapons. Throughout
this irregular and hurried retreat, Zulmiera had never
dropped her dirk, or her gory burden ; neither had she lost
sight of Cuanaboa; while the chief, seeing her dash the
weapon from his uncovered breast, when one stroke of the
Englishman's hand would have caused his death, thought
she had forgiven his horrid barbarity, and was well pleased
to see her nigh him.
As they emerged from the deeper glades of the wood, a
volume of smoke rose above the trees ; and upon gaining the
open ground, the whole extent of their danger was revealed
to the Caribs. There lay their canoes, a burning mass;
while the foreground was occupied by another band of
Englishmen, ready prepared for battle. Hemmed in on all
sides, the Caribs fought with the fury of uncaged beasts, and
sold their lives dearly. Many of the English were stretched
upon the ground, a flattened mass, from the blows of their
heavy clubs ; while others, wounded by their poisoned
arrows, only lived to endure further torments. Still Cuanaboa
remained unhurt ; and standing upon a gentle knoll, bran-
dished his club, and dealt destruction upon the foremost of
his enemies. His friends were rapidly falling around him ;
and as he turned to seek for refuge, Zulmiera approached
him unperceived, and with one blow, drove the dirk into his
very heart.
Without a groan, the Carib chief sank dead upon the
earth ; and Zulmiera, kneeling by him, plucked the weapon
from the wound, and applying her lips, drank the warm
blood as it gurgled forth / Unbinding the head of the un-
fortunate Raphe de Merefield from her waist, where she had
carried it throughout the fray, she gazed ardently at it ;
tenderly parted the still bright hair, imprinted a last kiss upon
the cold lips, and then taking up in her hand some of the vital
stream, which was still flowing from the wound of Cuanaboa,
and forming a pool around him, she bathed the head with
it, exclaiming as she did so, " Raphe, thou art avenged !
312 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
thine enemy lies dead before thee, slain by my hand ; and thy
bride, faithful in life and death, comes to share thy gory bed."
These actions completed, she looked up. The dying and
the dead lay stretched around her, — the conquering English
were looking to their captives, — the last gleam of the fire
was shooting upwards to the sky, — the moon had gained her
zenith, — while, as if in contrast to that bloody field, the
waters of the creek rolled on like molten silver, beneath her
lovely beams. For one moment the wild but beautiful girl
gazed upon the scene ; old remembrances sprang up in her
mind, and brought the tear into her eye. But dashing them
away, she regained her former implacable mood ; and as a
party of the governor's servants came forward to arrest her,
placing one hand upon her lover's head, she raised with the
other the dirk — its bright steel glittered for a moment in
the moonbeam — in the next it was ensheathed in her heart ;
and she fell a corpse upon that dire chief, to whom she owed
all her misery.
The scene of this Antiguan tragedy may still be viewed ;
the creek bears the name of " Indian Creek," while the
cavern in which they held their barbaric meeting is called
" Bat's cave." The governor retained his office until 1660,
when Charles II. was restored to the vacant crown ; but re-
fusing to acknowledge his sovereign, he was superseded, and
the vacant post was filled by Major- General Poyntz, a
royalist, who continued to act as governor until 1663, when
Lord Francis Willoughby obtained a grant of the island.
The name of Raphe de Merefield (the uncle of the young
cavalier) appears with that of Sir Thomas Warner in the
original grant signed by Charles 1. It is still to be seen at
" Stoney Hill," — an estate belonging to the late Samuel
Warner, president of Antigua, and a descendent of the old
family. This property was willed by him to his god-son,
— Shand, Esq., of the house of Messrs. Shand, Liverpool.
FALMOUTH. 313
CHAPTER XXVI.
Towns : Falmouth — Church and churchyard— Mangroves and acacias —
Black's Point — Bridgetown — Willoughby Bay — Its site and decora-
tion — The superintendant of the Wesleyan schools — School-room —
Methodist Chapel — The Memoras — St Philip's Church — Beautiful
views — Parham — Its derivation and site — St Peter's church —
Churchyard — The new church — Methodist chapel and school-room.
In the year 1675, six towns were appointed in Antigua as
places of trade — viz., St. John's, Falmouth, Old Road, (or
Carlisle Road,) Bridgetown, Willoughby Bay, Bermudian
Valley, and Parham.
St. John's, as the capital of the island, has already been
noticed in a chapter by itself, and it now devolves upon me
to endeavour to describe, what is almost indescribable, the
arrangement of the other towns, which, with the exception
of Bermudian Valley, are still in a state of existence.
To commence with Falmouth. As it lies just before the
traveller gains English Harbour, the road to it is the same
already mentioned in our journey to that place ; and conse-
quently another description would be tiresome and super-
fluous. I must, however, remark that near the entrance of
the town a pretty turn in the road leaves the blank-looking
country, which so generally predominates between Falmouth
and the capital, and leads you into a kind of defile ; on one
side, bordered by rugged banks thickly covered with the
yellow acacia, and its sweet-scented blossoms; and on the
other, by the picturesque ascent of Monk's Hill, surmounted
by all its frowning battlements.*
* From the summit of Monk's Hill, the eye can range over the whole
island of Antigua, with the exception of one part, where the mountains
intervene. The principal work, named Fort George, is mounted with
pieces of cannon, said to have been taken in the " Foudroyant" man-of-
war, in one of the many conflicts between the French and English.
VOL. I. P
314 HOUSES,
The town of Falmouth is noted for being the first part of
the island settled upon by the English, who, under the com-
mand of Mr. Warner, son of Sir Thomas Warner, emigrated
from St. Christopher's in 1632, and laid out the surrounding
country in fields of tobacco, cotton, and ginger, which were
for some years after the staple commodities of Antigua.
Humble as might have been the architectural ornaments
of this town in those early days, it seems almost an impossi-
bility to suppose them less then than they are at present ; fur
if strangers (from some of our bustling maritime cities in
Europe, for instance) were suddenly and unconsciously landed
in the streets of Falmouth, they would to all certainty believe
them to be so many pathways to the " castle of indolence ;"
and the irregular and dismal-looking buildings to be the
habitations of some lawless, vagrant tribe. A few four-
cornered houses, in shape like a pigeon- coop, and of dimen-
sions to suit a dweller of Lilliput, are elevated a short
distance from the ground by being placed upon empty
boxes or barrels, or four pillars of rudely-piled stones, which
arrangement forms a snug retreat for the pigs or poultry of
the inmate, or serves as a reservoir for sundry discarded
pots and pans, or other " household gods." These habita-
tions are as variously placed as the taste of their owners
may chance to dictate. Some present an acute angle,
others a broadside to the eye of passengers. Some stand in
what 1 suppose is intended to represent a garden, whose
rank weeds and straggling vegetables are guarded from the
steps of the unwelcome marauder only by a gate, made from
empty candle-boxes or barrel-heads, flanked by a thinly
sprinkled row of some dwarf shrub, over which the gallant
"Xit" (whom Mr. Ainsworth has so cleverly called into
existence in his admirable u Tower of London") could have
stepped with the greatest ease ; letting alone the frequent
lapses in the enclosure, through which a bulky man might
readily pass. To make all secure, however, these rustic
gates are generally garnished with a huge padlock, which is
of course carefully locked whenever the owner is absent ;
THE CHURCHYARD. 315
while the key, with admirable precaution, is tucked into
some little peep-hole near, that it may be ready for the use
of any stray visitants.
A few of these dwellings are, however, of superior form
and fabric ; and one stands forth in all the glories of pali-
sading, and if I mistake not, bright green verandahs. It
looks, by the side of its pigmy neighbours, like the Colossus
of Rhodes, to the mandarin figures in our English grocers'
shops.
The present church, dedicated to St. Paul, is a plain, un-
interesting-looking building, standing at the outskirts of the
town, and capable of affording about 400 sittings.
The churchyard might be made as picturesque, and looks
as quiet, as some of those pretty rural burial-places we often-
times alight upon in dear old England's sequestered nooks.
Some fine trees, and a few handsome monuments, are to be
met with ; and if the rank grass was cleared away a little, and
some of the various beautiful flowers, which are to be found
in all parts of the island, planted there, it would present a
spot equalling in appearance many of our modern cemeteries.
It may by some be thought folly thus to beautify the place
of death — to garnish that spot where the worm revels upon
the once animated clay ! — to plant the gladsome, gaily-tinted
flowers where all is mouldering beneath ! Be it so — yet
would I see the flowers blooming over the grave of those I
have loved, and while seated near, feel that the bitterness of
death is past, and that their happy disembodied spirits range,
free from all sorrows, amid the amaranthine bowers of heaven !
Like the late talented and oft-lamented " L. E. L.," I love to
frequent the scene of our last resting-place — like her, to —
" Stand beneath the haunted yew,
And watch each quiet tomb ;
And in the ancient churchyard feel
Solemnity, not gloom.
The place is purified with hope —
The hope that is of prayer ;
And human love, and heavenward thought,
And pious faith are there.
P2
316 black's point.
The golden cord which binds us all
Is loosed, not rent in twain ;
And love, and hope, and fear unite,
To bring the past again."
The parochial school is held in a small house near the
church. It is conducted upon the same plan as the other
schools of the kind in Antigua ; the instruction consisting of
lessons in reading, writing, arithmetic, repetition of cate-
chism and hymns, and plain-work for the girls.
St. Paul's has a chapel-of-ease in English Harbour;
which was, in truth, a private dwelling-house, but now, dis-
encumbered of its partitions, serves as a chapel, and is capable,
it Is said, of affording accommodation for 350 persons ; during
the week, it is appropriated to the use of an infant school.
The whole of Falmouth is thickly studded with clumps of
acacia, privet, and prickly pear ; all of which are of the
thorny family, and if report be true, serve the inhabitants
instead of pins. Between Falmouth and English Harbour
lies a marshy thickly covered with sand, and dotted about
with groups of mangrove-trees, in all. their glittering, green
foliage, forming so many oases in the midst of a burning
desert. The sea overflows this spot at times, and leaves its
tribute in the shape of small shells and bunches of sea-weed.
Opposite to Falmouth, looking across the waters of the
harbour, a bold promontory stretches out into the ocean, to
which has been given the name of " Black's Point." As it
belongs to a gentleman of that name, it is generally supposed
in Antigua, to derive its cognomen from that cause. Such
supposition is, however, incorrect, for it is laid down in an
old chart of the island as " Black's Point" long before its
present possessor came into existence. The real origin of
its bearing that appellation is from the fact of its having been
the place where it was customary to land the cargoes of
newly -imported negroes, prior to the abolition of the slave
trade ; and from this circumstance the name it now bears
was given to it.
Falmouth Harbour is considered one of the best in An-
BRIDGETOWN. 317
tigua, and is capable of affording safe anchorage for ships in
those times of danger to which the West Indies are exposed.
The shores of the bay boast their silver fringe of sand, which
is often selected by the parent turtle, as a place of safety, in
which to deposit her two or three hundred eggs ; and when
the sun has performed the duties of incubation, which the
lethargic mother refuses to perform, numbers of these little
creatures may be seen, crawling towards their favourite ele-
ment, where they feast and fatten, until, perhaps, in after-
years, they are doomed to increase the table store of some
Antiguan gourmand, or, perchance, find their way to Eng-
land, and tickle the palate of " the lord mayor, and the other
city authorities" within the sound of Bow bells.
Old Road (or Carlisle Road, as it was once called) and
St. Mary's church having been already described, in our
" pilgrimage to Tom Moore's Spring," it remains for me, in
the next place, to mention Bridgetown, or Willoughby Bay,
as it is more frequently termed. Here, again, I have the
task of describing, what is almost a nondescript, for no
stranger would ever discover that it was a town unless the
fact were pointed out to him. If the man who painted a
lion was obliged to write under it, " This is a lion," I am
sure the person who huddled the three or four houses to-
gether, which constitutes Bridgetown, had need to have put
upon a giant-like placard, " This is a town !" unless, indeed,
a rather good-looking Methodist chapel, a small mission-
house, a stone dwelling-house, with school-room attached,
and a few of my four-cornered friends, stuck in here and
there, like the dots in a landscape of some country painter,
to represent crows, be sufficient to merit for it that lofty
title, which Dr. Johnson, or some other lexicographer of
equal renown, leads us to suppose signifies " a large col-
lection of houses/'
As regards the population of this town, (I like to give
places their proper names,) I can give but little information.
With the exception of the very kind-hearted superintendant
of the Wesley an schools, Mr. Charles Thwaites, and his equally
318 THE SCHOOL-BOOM.
amiable wife, their very pretty little boy, one or two domestics,
and their scholars of every shade, the only inhabitants I saw
were flocks of black-headed gulls, busily employed in following
their piscatory avocations ; a few half-starved looking sheep,
vainly endeavouring to screen themselves from the fiery
beams of the sun beneath the leafless branches of some
blighted shrubs ; and three or four long-necked, screaming
birds, known in this part of the world as gorlings, and
which derive their subsistence from the same source as their
neighbours, the gulls.
After resting for a short time at the superintendant's
dwelling, we proceeded to the school-room, a most com-
modious apartment, measuring 50ft. by 48ft., and capable
of containing 500 persons. The whole of this establish-
ment, including the superintendant's house, which is de-
tached, was erected by the Church Missionary Society ; but
after being used by them for a short time, it was turned over
to the " Ladies' Society," to whom it still belongs, although
the Wesleyan Mission holds its school there.
The school-room was but thinly attended upon the day of
our visit, there not being more than 40 children — the usual
number is about 100. Upon our entrance, they all rose up
with " We'll make our obeisance together, as children ought
to do," and then, quitting their raised seats, formed into
double lines, their teacher at their head, and marched round
the apartment to the tune of one of their infant rhymes*
After performing many martial-like evolutions, they finally
arranged themselves into a deep phalanx, and thus sang
another of their little songs. Many of them are proficients in
reading the scriptures, and are well versed in the historical
parts of them. I hope and trust the education so liberally
bestowed upon them, and above all, the religious instruction
which they receive, may benefit their after-conduct, and
lead them to do their duty in that sphere of life in which it
has pleased their Creator to place them. I was much
pleased to learn from Mr. Thwaites that, in almost every
instance, the pupils who have left the schools under his
MR. THWAITES. 319
charge have followed agricultural employments. To a
country whose grand resource, and, indeed, entire depen-
dence, is placed upon the cultivation of the sugar-cane, this
conduct upon the part of its rising generation must be very
important ; and if the lower classes continue to do so, and
not, because they are free, despise the hoe, Antigua may
stand forth as pre-eminently flourishing among the other
West Indian colonies.
Mr. Thwaites is the paid superintendant of all the
Wesley an country schools. His salary is 150/. sterling per
annum, a small recompence (although quite as liberal as the
mission can afford) for the constant care his responsible
situation calls for, and which he performs with untiring
zeal. For about twenty-nine years has this good man been
employed in providing for the mental wants of the black
population, and in endeavouring to lead their young minds
to the only fount of real knowledge. Unmindful of passing
events he has kept on- his irksome task, (for irksome it must
be to drive knowledge into the brains of some of these little
negroes,) buoyed up by his feelings of deep philanthropy.
The first few years of his employment were passed with-
out receiving any reward, but the approval of his own
conscience. As, however, his laudable exertions became
known, he was engaged by the " Church Missionary
Society," whose interests he faithfully served for near ten
years. Since that period he has been in the employ of the
Wesleyan mission. Although from being such a valuable
auxiliary in rearing " the infant mind," and teaching " the
young idea how to shoot," the bishop would gladly have
retained his services, provided he gave up all connexion
with the Methodists.
Mr. Thwaites has under his charge eleven day-schools,
with about 800 scholars ; and three Sunday-schools, with
about 900 scholars. Besides attending these several schools,
Mr. Thwaites visits the neighbouring estates in the evenings,
for the purpose of giving the labourers religious instruction,
and guarding his elder pupils, or those who have left his
320 8ALARIE8 OF TEACHERS.
schools, for the purpose of engaging in the avocations
customary to their province in life, against those tempta-
tions to which their age and sex are most subject.
It has been remarked in a late publication, (in- comment-
ing upon events in Antigua) that " after ransacking the whole
freed population for a dozen suitable teachers of children,
Mr. Thwaites could not find even that number who could
read well. Now, this is a great error, and altogether con-
tradicted by Mr. Thwaites himself. The blacks certainly had
not the means of improving themselves in former years, as
the more fortunate generation have had since emancipation ;
but that the whole class were so totally ignorant as not to be
able to ready is entirely incorrect. In proof of this, the
superintendant pointed out to our notice several teachers
who were well adapted for their employment ; one in par-
ticular, who, Mr. T. remarked, conducted a school consist-
ing of 120 scholars, which he instructed in reading, writing,
and arithmetic, in which last branch of education many
of his pupils had attained to " Practice 91 and " Vulgar
Fractions."
The salaries of these paid teachers (of which there are
seventeen, the remainder giving their services without any
recompence) are very small — not more than from three to
four dollars (12s. and 16s. sterling) per month. They are
paid by the " Ladies' Negro Education Society," and other
benevolent societies in England, who also defray the other
expenses of the schools, with the exception of the superin-
tendent's salary, which is provided by the Wesleyan mission.
The children, who receive instruction in writing, cyphering,
and needlework, pay a small pittance, which is placed in
the school fund.
There is a very neat and excellent little library attached to
the Willoughby-Bay school, where the works of t( Abbott,"
" Sherwood," " Pike," and various other pious authors, are
open to the use of all, besides treatises upon geography,
history, and experimental philosophy. The lighter works,
such as Mrs. Sherwood's pretty, and often affecting, little
BEES. 321
narratives, are read, Mrs. Thwaites informed me, with
avidity by the negroes, to which intelligence their well-
thumbed covers gave a tacit assent. Around the school-
room were hung various cards, with texts of scripture printed
upon them in large characters, that "such who run may
read" — a practice I greatly admire, for turn whichever way
you will, some goodly sentence meets your eye.
In the neat little yard attached to Mr. Thwaites* dwelling,
we met with some old friends of mine — a small wooden hive
of "busy bees." A pane of glass inserted into the box
gave us a view of the industrious little creatures build-
ing their waxen cells, in which to store their fragrant food ;
but the weather was against them — the long drought had
withered the flowers, and thus curtailed their stock of honey.
There are very few bee-hives to be met with in Antigua.
This is rather strange, as all Creoles are noted for having a
" sweet tooth," and consequently honey is reckoned a luxury.
It cannot be from want of proper food, that the labours of
these little insects are discountenanced, for Nature has been
most prodigal of her stores to Antigua, and clothed her every
hill and dale with melliferous blossoms.
I have heard of one gentleman, however, who was very
anxious to establish an apiary upon his property in Antigua,
and accordingly he obtained some choice hives, which in
due time were safely deposited in his well- stocked garden.
Soon after their arrival, however, business called him from
the island, and he committed his valued bees to the care of
his overseer, a true son of Hibernia, with an expressed hope,
" that they would not wander from home." The day after
his departure, the overseer, wishful of obliging his employer,
stole from his multitudinous duties a sufficient time to watch
the movements of his buzzing charge. The bright sun dretlr
them from* their hives, and jocund in their little hearts, away
they bounded on the balmy zephyr. Innumerable flowers
dazzled their eyes, and courted their attention. Here the
gorgeous hybiscus spread out its glowing bosom — there the
p3
322 ANECDOTE.
blushing frangipanne loaded the air with its rich fragrance.
At one moment they inserted their trunks into the sweet-
scented cup of the jasmine ; at the next, and they brushed
the pearly dew from the brilliant radii of the passion-flower.
Onward they flew, allured by flowerets of every colour, each
one as
44 Fair as the fabulous Asphodels ;"
until at length, to the dismay of the overseer, they were lost
to sight! He was no naturalist: he had never studied
" Reaumur" upon the " habits of bees," and as the last
straggler disappeared, he thought " Well ! Mr. hoped
they would not wander from home, but by St. Patrick
they're all gone, and if they ever come back is a query."
However, as nothing could be done, he was obliged to leave
them to their fate ; and in a rather disconsolate mood, "he
turned and left the spot."
Hours wore away,
44 The evening came, the son descended,"
and the truant insects returned to their hive, to the great joy
of the observant overseer. " Ah ! ah !" said he, as they
alighted, heavily laden with their luscious store, " a pretty
trick you have played me to-day ; but by my patron saint,
I will take care of you to-morrow." He watched until they
were all safe housed ; and then with hurried steps, and self-
congratulatory hitches of the shoulders, he sought the spot
where masons had been lately working. Providing himself
with some of the soft mortar, he again visited the apiary ;
and with ready will, and determined purpose, applied to the
opening of each hive a sufficient quantum of the cement, so
as to effectually forbid the egress of any bee. It is almost
needless to mention, that upon the return of the gentleman,
whose absence had been protracted, he found his favourite
insects defunct ; nor need I animadvert upon the vexation
his overseer's management of an apiary caused him.
To resume my subject — which the bees, and their untimely
fate, drove from my head : after inspecting the school,
st. Philip's. 323
and expressing our gratification, we proceeded to visit the
Methodist chapel, a stone's throw from the school-room. It
is a plain wooden building, measuring 45 feet by 60 feet,
and capable of containing 900 sittings. The burying-
ground is attached, and serves as the place of interment for
the whole town, and some part of the adjoining country.
Adjacent to the chapel is the mission-house, a neat little
domicile for such an extraordinary-looking place as Bridge-
town.
There is nothing interesting about Willoughby Bay. No
glittering white sand, or clear blue water with its dazzling
surf to be seen. A line of blighted, sickly-looking bushes
shuts out the sight of the beach ; and the part of the bay
which greets our eyes looks gloomy and discoloured, as if
from lurking reefs and shoals. Upon the opposite side of
the bay, looking across the water, lies the Memoras, a long
ridge of rocks, over which the sea rushes with tremendous
force, and with a deafening noise, which may be heard at a
considerable distance. Upon a still day, the angry moan of
the waves can be clearly distinguished at Bridgetown.
Willoughby Bay derives its name from Francis Lord Wil-
loughby, who in 1663 was made Lord Proprietor of the
whole island, by a grant from Charles II.*
St. Philip's, the parish church, is situated upon an ascent,
at some distance from Bridgetown, and commands one of
the finest views to be met with in any part of the country.
The eye ranges with delight over sloping hills and open
glades ; wood-crowned mountains, and silent valleys. Sugar
plantations, in all the beauty of high cultivation, spread out
their fields of rich and wavy green beneath our feet, inter-
spersed with groups of simple negro huts, almost hid in their
leafy enclosures ; while on all sides, the ocean stretched out
its interminable blue waters. It was a lovely day when we
visited the spot, —
* For the genealogy, and a general account of this family, see Ap-
pendix.
324 PABHAM.
" The whispering winds were half asleep,
The clouds were gone to play,
And on the woods, and on the deep,
The smiles of heaven lay.
It seem'd as if the day was one
Sent from beyond the skies,
Which shed to earth above the sun,
A light of paradise."
Of the first church dedicated to St. Philip no account
can be given ; but most probably it was built about the year
1690. The second church to that saint was erected about
1717. It was a wooden building, and no doubt possessed
but little claim to architectural beauty. The present church
is one of the prettiest I have seen in the West Indies. It
is built of the smooth freestone, so generally found in Ao-
tiguan quarries ; the only fault is, that they are cut too
small, which, at a distance, gives them more the appearance
of white bricks.
The plan, like many of the other Antiguan churches, is
cruciform ; but there is so much chasteness displayed in the
simple arrangement of the interior, that it must please every
eye. The large oriel window is furnished with ground-glass,
of the most elegant, yet simple devices ; and the neat pulpit
and desk, — the altar, gallery, and pulpit rails, — the wooden
columns which support the roof, — the pews and doors,
painted in excellent representation of rich-grained oak, please
by their uniformity. They are in the gothic style. The
decorations of the altar are very plain, merely consisting of
the tables of the Commandments, the Lord's Prayer, and
the Creed.
Leaving the town of Bermudian Valley (of which I think
there is scarcely a relic) *« alone in its glory," we come to
Parham, the remaining place of trade appointed during the
time Col. Rowland Williams held the deputy-governorship
of Antigua. Parham takes its name from the title of Lord
William Willoughby of Parham. In 1697, after the decease
of Christopher Codrington, Esq., (the elder,) Parham ap-
pears to have been the residence of the lieutenant-governor,
NEW CHURCH. 325
in preference to St. John's ; and this circumstance gives
rise to the statement of some authors, that Parham was once
the capital of the island. It is another of those strangely
straggling places whose streets are in many parts bordered
with dagger (aloe vulgaris) instead of houses ; but still it is
far superior to Bridgetown, for some of its edifices boast of
covered galleries, or balconies, flights of stone steps, and
many other decorations.
The parish church of St. Peter's, the second of the name,
is an old dismal looking building, whose outward appearance
is enough to give the observer a fit of that fashionable com-
plaint, dyspepsia. It was erected in 1754, and affords 300
sittings. St. Peter s has a chapel- of-ease, the private pro-
perty of the Rev. Nat. Gilbert, a descendant of the " founder
of Methodism" in Antigua, who was speaker of the house of
assembly in 1764.
From some strange freak, or else from dire necessity,
Parham churchyard is situated at about two miles dis-
tance from the church and town. It was formerly sur-
rounded by a brick wall, but that is all falling to ruin. A
more desolate-looking burying-ground I never saw — not a
tree or flower near it ; the very birds in their aerial wander-
ings seem to shun the spot.
At a short distance from St. Peter's is fast rising into
existence what will prove, when finished, a very neat and
pretty church. It is an irregular octagonal — that is, the
sides are not of equal dimensions. It is built of the same
kind of stone as St. Philip's ; but has a better effect, from
the blocks being cut of larger size. The base of the tower
is constructed from the interior ; but in its present unfinished
state, (1842) with all its multiplicity of scaffolding and frame
work, it is impossible to say what will be the effect ; except,
as I have before remarked, it will no doubt make a pretty
appearance when completed. The architect is an English-
man, and the head mason (a black man) appears to be well-
versed in the mysteries of his trade, to judge from the
excellent smoothness in the joints of the walls, and from a
326 REV. MR. KEATLEY.
very neat keystone which he has sculptured. This church
is intended to take the name and service from the old one,
which will then be dismantled.
Besides the episcopal church, Parham boasts a very neat
little chapel belonging to the Wesleyana, with a good stone
mission -house and school-room adjoining. The general
number of scholars at this school is seventy, including girls
and boys ; although upon our visit to it, there were not
more than thirty-five. The school-room is a very airy
and commodious building, capable of containing 600 or 700
persons. The children which compose the school are of
every age, from three to fourteen. The instruction given
them is plain, but good — scriptural knowledge, reading,
spelling, writing, and arithmetic, with needlework for the
girls. There are no pictorial embellishments in this school-
room, merely a few selections from the Scriptures, cards of
multiplication, and some black-painted boards upon which
the children practise their little sums with a piece of
chalk.
The Wesleyan missionary stationed at Parham, the Rev.
Mr. Keatley, (who appears to be a very amiable man,) men-
tioned as a well-known fact, that the schools in the country
were always better attended the three first days in the week,
and that after that period very few children made their ap-
pearance. Probably this is owing to their parents employ-
ing them in some domestic business which is more necessary
at the close than at the beginning of the week.
Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when
gained, is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the
number of shoals and reefs which encumber its approach. It
also contains some few islands, of which Bethel's Island is the
largest. This harbour is protected from the inroads of the
enemy by Port Byam, erected upon Barnacle Point, and
which derives its name from Colonel Edward Byam, some-
time governor of Antigua^ It is said that within the pre-
cincts of this fort, Colonel Byam had a small room erected,
where he was in the habit of receiving and entertaining a
FORTS AND FORTIFICATIONS. 327
party of Caribs, who came yearly from some of the neigh-
bouring islands, in order to smoke their calumets of peace
with that gentleman.
To the southward of Parham rises a curious hill, which is
supposed to be the work of art, and to have answered for the
burying-place of the ancient inhabitants, the Caribs. An
old writer speaking of this tumulus, describes it as " in form
a long square, very regular in all its parts, lessening gradu-
ally from its base to the top, which is flat, and may be from
five to six hundred feet long, and from forty to fifty feet
high."
CHAPTER XXVII.
Forts and fortifications — Temporary ones — The present forts — Fort
James — Its situation and approach — Rat Island Battery, its appella-
tion, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff — Goat Hill — Steep ascent —
Schools in St John's.
It might be imagined that wljere nature has done so much
for her favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving
to Antigua a bold rocky coast, art, in the shape of forts and
batteries, would be less called for. This, however, is not the
case ; the island coaster meets with many an embattled point,
and many a sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a
battery.
The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery,
Goat Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston's Point
Fort, Old Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black's Point,
Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkley at the entrance of English
Harbour, Fort Christian, Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort
Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort, and Fort Byam ; Par-
ham Harbour, Dickenson's Point Battery, Corbison's Fort,
and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part were merely
temporary fortifications erected in those days of warfare
when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and perrigoas,
328 FORT JAMES.
used to make such frequent attacks upon the island. Still,
dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years, when
peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the
Antilles, they retained their names, and served as sinecures
to those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation,were
exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that
body during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.*
The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat
Island Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston's
Point, Old Road Fort, Monk's Hill, and the forts at English
Harbour.
Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot
of ground known as St. John's Point, which was given to
his majesty Charles II., by Col. James V a ugh an, in 1680.
It is situated at the entrance of St. John's Harbour, and
commands at once a beautiful and extensive view, while,
from its frowning battlements, a deadly and raking fire could
be poured upon the adventurous enemy who dared its
anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to over-
hang the sea ; and the waves, from constantly fretting and
foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If
all proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accom-
paniments will, some day, probably make a rapid descent
into the yawning gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no
longer vomit forth their flaming breath upon the dauntless
vessel who dares to pass it, without tendering to its captain
his expected dole.f
* Several of these forts were sold by the legislature, after the conclu-
sion of the war with America.
f It has been the custom, although the law does not command it, to
pay to the captain of this fort 18s. currency, for every vessel, no matter
what her tonnage, passing from the harbour. As there are many
owners of small crafts in Antigua, whose pockets are not so well pro-
vided with this world's wealth, as to enable them to fling it abroad upon
every occasion, they are glad to take advantage of the absence of neces-
sity, and retain for their own use the two dollars, which custom or caprice
has reserved for the commandant, and pass the fort without paying the
tribute. This conduct is generally resented by despatching after the
offending vessel an angry message, in the shape of a cannon-shot. It
appears extraordinary, that such a monstrous and illegal proceeding as
firing upon the vessels should be permitted, or at least tacitly sanctioned
by the government.
RAT ISLAND BATTERY* 329
Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making them-
selves beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy re-
sults of peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quiet-
ness, and that they may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A
gun, however, is fired at sunrise and sunset ; and her
majesty's ships, as well as vessels of war belonging to other
nations, are complimented with a grand discharge. The
arrival and departure of the governor, members of council,
&c, also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious acci-
dents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago
one of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by
overloading the instrument when saluting a French man-of-
war, that it became necessary to amputate the limb imme-
diately. He has now happily regained his former health,
and is employed upon the fort as a schoolmaster.
The captain of Fort James receives 150/. sterling per
annum, and the residence is one that many would gladly in-
habit. Under him are stationed twelve matrosses, who re-
ceive very good pay. For the use of these last-mentioned
persons, a temporary chapel has been established within
these last few years, through the instrumentality of the Rev.
John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary, son to the former
governor of the fort, by which happy means they are enabled
to attend Divine service once on the Lord's day.
The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of
about four miles, is not very noted for the interest it dis-
plays. As the traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea
runs far inland, twisting and twining its rippling waters amid
the clumps of aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner.
Through this, equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned
carriage, and the more humble gig, alike have to pass, while
shoals of fairy-like fish dart from their parent waters in all
directions ; and as the sunbeams catch their silvery scales,
almost blind the looker* on with their dazzling coruscations.
Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object,
as the stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the
harbour of St. John's, and takes its name from some fancied
330 GOAT HILL.
resemblance to that most destructive little quadruped, a rat
I cannot say this is apparent to my eyes, but the believers
in such a similitude say that the rock personates the body of
the animal, while the causeway which connects it to the
main land plays the part of a tail. I have already mentioned
the lunatic asylum lately erected upon this rock, whose
whitened walls look cheerfully down upon the waters be-
neath, and little tells the observer how many darkened minds
wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island is often
gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating heart
my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings
that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as
I hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with
" a grey goose-quill," and telling that those who are so dear
to me are enjoying health and happiness in Old England.
Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the
opposite side of the harbour to Fort James. When j assing
it by sea, our surprise is excited when we consider how it is
possible to transport the heavy artillery and stores up the
steep ascent ; but the road is winding, and the difficulty is
much sooner overcome than would be supposed. It was on
the site of this fort that the French landed, in that memor-
able attack upon, and reduction of, the island in 1666. Near
the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar shaped and blackened
rocks rear their bare heads above the sea, around which the
waves dash their lustrous foam with loud and angry moan-
ings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their several
captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be
found in the statistical portion of this work.
From the forts, I proceed to mention the " Mico Charity"
School at St. John's, where instruction is given in various
branches of knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I
must say I was surprised to find among the dirty ragged
little negroes, which comprised it generally, a herd of geo-
graphers, historians, and grammarians. The head-master
happened to be absent, but a messenger was immediately
despatched to call him ; and, upon his arrival, the examina-
MICO CHARITY. 331
tion commenced, which I left entirely to themselves, wishing
to see their own mode of tuition.
The room, or rather rooms, were hung round with various
pictorial embellishments, consisting of some very beautiful
lithographed designs, representing the most interesting and
affecting scenes in the Old and New Testament — birds and
animals, fruits and flowers, steam apparatuses, machinery of
all descriptions, modes of every branch of agriculture, and
some excellent maps.
A stand was placed in the middle of the apartment, and
a boy of about twelve or thirteen took his station by the side
of it, with the '< wand of office" in his hand. It was now
announced by the master — " Those boys who wish to ask
questions, please hold up their hands," when immediately
about eight or ten, of the same age as the one stationed in
the middle of the room, replied by the motion required,
while an air of animation sprang to their eyes, and lightened
the dusky hue of their complexions. The first question was
proposed by a boy, black as the late member of parliament's
celebrated blacking, but whose scanty habiliments bore many
a mark from the finger of time, and many a stain upon their
once fair colour. u Who was Hannibal?" Answer, from the
boy near the stand — " A Carthaginian general, who defeated
the Romans in two engagements."
It was now his turn to propound—" How is the true situ-
ation of any place upon the globe shewn ?" Answer, from an
intelligent-looking little mongrel boy, who was in such haste
to reply, that it called for the aid of the master to render
his rapid utterance understood—" By the intersection of that
imaginary circle, which we call a parallel of latitude, with
the meridian of the place in question." Having replied to
this query, he asked the boy at the stand — " Who was the
first Roman emperor that visited England, then called
Britain, and in what year?"
This was a puzzler. He could not answer to it; so he lost
his conspicuous station, which was occupied by the more
fortunate querist.
332 SCHOOL EXAMINATION
Various other questions were then proposed in history and
chronology ; after which, an examination in the Old and New
Testaments commenced — the interrogatories being still pro-
pounded by the boy : " Who was the man that climbed up
into the tree, to see Jesus pass?" '« Zaccheus." — " Where
did Moses die ?" inquired a pretty little girl. « On Mount
Pisgah," was the answer. A tall, rather grim-looking boy,
started up, and, in a sepulchral-toned voice, asked — " What
is the difference between Pisgah and Nebo?" — " Nebo ap-
pears to have been a point, or pinnacle, of Mount Pisgah,"
replied a shrimpish boy by his side.
An excellent map of the world was then brought, and
attached to the stand in the middle of the apartment, so that
the eyes of the whole school could rest upon it. The greater
and lesser circles were then pointed out, the meaning of
longitude and latitude defined, the form and divisions of the
earth mentioned and descanted upon, and the sun's path
through the ecliptic described.
The question was then proposed to the school — " Would
you like to sing?" — " Yes," from every lip. " You must
promise to sing very soft and sweet," quoth the master.
" Soft and sweet,' ' reverberated from the whole of the scho-
lars, like the tongue of an echo. Then came the " soft and
sweet," as they termed it ; and if the burden of a song could
give melody to the lips, it would have been more sweet than
" the breath of the south wind upon a bed of violets," as
Avon's favoured bard once sang ; for it was all about our
dear little Queen Victoria. To the tune of this loyal ditty
they marched round the room, each class divided by their
several teachers, carrying a pile of books, and then formed
into semicircles, to be exercised in reading, writing, arith-
metic, spelling, and grammar. Their spelling was very fair;
many of them wrote a good hand ; they all appeared con-
versant with the four first rules of arithmetic; and as for
grammar, they talked about present tenses, and perfect
participles, nouns, adverbs, and conjunctions, definites and
indefinites, until I began to think they must have been born
THE SCHOOL-ROOM. 333
with a "Lindley Murray" in their mouths. I wish I could
speak as well of their reading ; but I suppose boys who talk
about Hannibal and Artaxerxes, ecliptics and globular pro-
jections, and descant upon the merit of tenses, esteem it
too common -place to read correctly words of two or three
syllables.
The average number of boys and girls attending this
school is from 140 to 160; although, from the prevalence
of the measles upon my visit, there were not more than half
that number there. Young men are also received in this
establishment as candidates for teachers ; 100 of whom have,
within these last four years, been disseminated throughout
the schools in Antigua, and some of the other West India
Islands, as fully qualified for instructing the rising generation
in all the necessary branches of education.
After experiencing the erudition of these advanced scho-
lars, we passed into another part of the establishment appro-
priated to the use of the infant school. Here we found about
sixty little creatures, two or three, to eight or ten years of
age, seated upon their benches, raised one above the other —
the elder ones occupying the upper tier.
This apartment was also garnished with its pretty prints
and Brobdignagian alphabets, and possessed its coloured
maps and stands. The exercises were conducted in a similar
manner as those in the other part of the seminary : an intel-
ligent-looking little black boy taking his place by the centre
stand, beside the map of Palestine, and answering very fluently
the various questions proposed to him by the other children,
at the same time pointing out the places. " Where did Jesus
turn water into wine?" asked one of the little girls. " Cana,
in Galilee." — " Who got his cedars from Lebanon ?" —
" Solomon, 11 &c. They then sang one of their pretty little
songs, to the tune of which they marched round the room,
and, formed into classes, read, from a selection of pieces,
" Dr. Franklin's Whistle." It was too difficult for them,
and they bungled sadly through it ; for although, like the
elder pupils, they were geographers and historians, they had
334 REPOSITORIES OF LEARNING.
not made much progress in the art of reading. Their lessons
over, thej sang an anthem ; and then, after a short prayer
offered up by the master, the school broke up, and away
they started with whoop and song, leaving me to ponder in
my brain how far their manifold knowledge would benefit
their after progress through life.
Besides the Wesleyan and Mico schools, Antigua is further
supplied with " repositories of learning," belonging to the
established church and the Moravians. Our worthy rector,
zealous in every good work, has a pleasing little infant-school
near the rectory, besides schools in various other parts of
the town and country. The Moravians have large schools at
their different settlements ; and a boys* and girls' school, with
infant-school attached, adjoining their chapel in St. John's.
I visited this last-mentioned school twice ; but I am unable
to speak of the acquirements of the scholars — they having
been dismissed soon after my entrance, upon both occasions.
They appear to cultivate the art of singing ; for I heard them
join in Mrs. Hemans' " Better Land," to the accompaniment
of a small, but very sweet-toned organ, played by their super-
intendent. If I may be allowed to judge of the manners of
the children, (which, I own, would not be quite right,) by
those of the female teacher, I should be inclined to say, they
were far behind any of the other schools I have visited in
the island ; for she appeared totally deficient in politeness or
agreeable behaviour.
I have thus endeavoured to shew that Antigua abounds
in schools — the exact number of which will be found in the
chapter on statistics. I sincerely hope that the benefits
arising from them may be permanently felt by the lower
classes, and that the patrons of these schools may reap the
reward of their philanthropy. There are some sad examples :
(sorry am I to be compelled to say so !) where, instead of
improving, education has but tended to lead further into the
paths of error ; for the very passages of Scripture that have
been taught them — the doctrines of salvation which have
been inculcated, these unhappy creatures pervert to raise
NEGRO LEARNING. 335
their ungodly mirth. Oh, how do our ears become shocked
at every turn of the street, at every hour of the day, by the
language of this class of persons ! while that great and holy
name, " at which every knee shall bow/' is bandied about
as a common interjection.
There are some to be met with among the negroes whose
display of learning is very ludicrous. We have a servant
now living with us who often calls up from me an involun-
tary smile. I heard her speaking the other evening to a
fellow-servant, whose name is Diana. " Diana, my goddess !
come here. Let me see, Diana was the goddess of truth,
and Junus the goddess of sleep, and so you must not tell me
a story, or go to sleep !" Diana did not appear to compre-
hend this burst of eloquence, and so her friend went on to
explain to her, that as "Airy was the ram, and Callus the
. bull, Virgo was a lion, and Quaris was a water-pot ;" she
must bow to her superior knowledge in everything. To
this, Diana humbly assented with " Ees, Miss Charlotte !"
accompanied by a stare of amazement. I don't wonder,
however, at poor Diana's surprise at her friend's knowledge ;
I am sure she often startles me. Another evening, I saw
her standing in the yard, with outstretched arms, and up-
turned eyes, gazing upon . a bright star, which twinkled
above, while in a very lackadaisical tone, she exclaimed,
" Oh, Mars ! invoke me by thy rays ! "
I hope, however, what I have said in this last page will
not discountenance those worthy characters who are em-
ployed in opening the book of knowledge to the eyes of the
ignorant. In the words of a much-admired writer, <( the
delightful hope may be cherished by him who shall bring
his mite for the promotion of the Lancastrian system of in-
struction for giving knowledge to the ignorant — the hope
that he is providing for the display of a genius in works of
the highest utility, which might otherwise have expended
itself in a career of infamous contrivance, long operating as
a pest to society, terminating in the ignominious destruction
of the victim of the want of education. And when the in-
336 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
timate connexion between ignorance and vice is considered,
surely all who wish to lessen the sum of the latter will assist
the endeavours that are now making to plant the tree of
knowledge amid the desert and deformed waste ; — to convert
that which is now cheerless and blank into a field of profuse
beauty teeming with the real wealth and strength of nations. 9
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans — Suppositions of various
authors — Caribs — Arrowawks — Ferocity of the Carib — Complexion
— Dress— Ornaments-r-Dreadful revenge — Wars — Chiefs — Severi-
ties practised — Feasts — Remarks upon paganism — Anthropophagi—
A traveller's tale — The Carib's opinion of death — Religions tenets-
Altars — The burning Carib.
It may perhaps be proper to remark, that although this work
has been entitled, " Antigua and Antiguans," still, as I have
commenced its history from the period of its first discovery,
it will be necessary to say something about its ancient inha-
bitants, the Caribs. As it is impossible at this lapse of time,
to give the history of the individual tribe who peopled this
island, I have been obliged to gather my information from
what the early writers have transmitted to posterity, of the
habit and customs of the entire nation. Consequently, while
I am writing of the Carib of Antigua, or, as the island was
called at that period, " Xamayca," I must at the same time
allude to those of the other islands ; only remarking, that
ferocious as they all were, the Carib of this country seems to
have borne the pre-eminence in hardy daring and relentless
animosity toward their conquerors. In the same manner, I
have thought proper to give a short account of the discovery
of America, as antecedent to that of this island ; and as, in
furtherance of my plan, I have introduced Columbus to my
readers, from his boyhood, it is but right I should trace the
Caribbean nation from their source. With this apology for
ORIGIN OF THE AMERICANS. 337
trying the patience of my readers, while I write of a people
whose existence is no more, I will proceed with my subject,
which I hope may neither prove foreign nor unpleasant.
To enter into minute inquiries how America and its conti-
guous islands were first peopled, would fill many volumes,
the opinions of the learned upon this subject being so various.
Some authors suppose the Americans do not derive their
existence from the same common parent as the rest of man-
kind. Others, that they are descended from a remnant of
the antediluvian world which survived the deluge ; but this
must be erroneous, or how are we to understand the sacred
historian, when, speaking of that momentous circumstance,
he says — " And all flesh died that moved upon the earth,
both of fowl, and of cattle, and of beast, and of every creep-
ing thing that creepeth upon the face of the earth, and every
man. All in whose nostrils wa* the breath of life, of all that
was in the dry land, died! 11 — Gen. vii. 21, 22. .Again, many
authors assert that their ancestors came from the north-east
of Asia, after the dispersion of the people for their impious
attempt to build the Tower of Babel ; and to establish this
doctrine upon a firmer basis, endeavour to point out the
great similitude between the Asiatics and the Southern
Americans, in their manners, customs, and general appear-
ance. Another, and perhaps the most probable idea, is, that
the southern parts of North America, and the islands which
lie in the Gulf of Mexico, and the Caribbean Sea, were ori-
ginally peopled by Africans. This idea is maintained by
various speculations: — as the trade-winds blow direct from
east to west, a canoe of these savages might have been driven
by bad weather across the Atlantic ; and this position may
be further proved by the statement of the Indians of Florida,
who, when asked about their origin, reply, " that their ances-
tors came from the east, and that at the time they discovered
America, they were nearly dead from want of provisions."
These Africans, uniting with the different tribes with which
the other parts of America were peopled, must have pro-
duced the various degrees of colour and character which
VOL. I. Q
338 COLUMBUS.
astonished so much the first discoverers of this extensive
quarter of the world.
The Caribs, from whom Antigua and the adjoining islands
took their names, were a very different race of beings from
the gentle and hospitable inhabitants of Cuba, Jamaica,
Hayti, &c, who were called Arrowawks, and with whom
the Caribs were ever at war. From the martial and ferocious
spirit of the Caribs, and from their repasts upon human flesh,
historians agree in supposing they were descended from
the Africans; while, on the contrary, the peacefulness and
indolence of the Arrowawks evidently bespeak them of an
Asiatic origin.
When Columbus visited these islands for the first time, he
found the inhabitants so very savage, that he was for a while
fearful of landing ; but upon despatching small presents to
them, they afterwards appeared more friendly, and desirous
of an acquaintance. In nearly all of their huts were found
relics of their horrid feasts upon the bodies of their slaugh-
tered enemies ; and in one of them, a man's arm was roasting
for the intended meal of the inmates.
The character of the Caribs presents little of what is inte-
resting to the imagination ; ferocious, superstitious, and re-
vengeful, they looked upon all strangers as enemies ; and, in
return, were dreaded as such by the inhabitants of the other
islands ; still they are represented as being, generally, peace-
able and friendly to one another. They ever retained a high
sense of equality and independence. Accustomed to be ab-
solute masters of their own conduct, they scorned to follow
the orders of others ; and having never known control, they
would not submit to correction. Many, when they found
they were treated as slaves by the Spaniards, and that resist-
ance or escape was impossible, sought refuge from calamity
in the arms of death. While the Carib roamed in his native
wilds, his reason was but little exercised, and consequently,
his intellectual powers were very limited. His ideas never
extended beyond the narrow sphere in which he moved, and
everything but his present preservation and enjoyment was
PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE CARIBS. 339
perfectly indifferent to him. When disposed to sleep, no
consideration on earth would tempt him to sell his bed ; but
in the morning, when satisfied with slumber, and prepared to
set out on the usual business or recreation of the day, the
Carib has been known to dispose of it for the smallest trifle
which caught his fancy. The only thing they deemed of
real value, was their weapons — consequently, when they
found, by sad experience, the superiority of fire-arms over
the bow and arrows of their own country, they viewed them
with unbounded admiration ; but the inventions and improve-
ments of civilized life, with all the arts and manufactures of
the Spaniards, they regarded with apathy, or paid them the
same attention as we do the toys of childhood.
Columbus noticed two distinct races of Caribs. One was
quite black, with hair approaching to woolly ; the other, of
a deep copper colour complexion, with long, straight hair ;
the latter inhabited Antigua and the adjoining islands, while
the blacks predominated more in the islands further south.
In appearance, the Caribs were robust and muscular ; their
limbs flexible and active. They ornamented their hair with
shells and grease ; and some of them had it turned up like
women, and decorated with thin plates of gold, which they
procured from the Arrowawks. Their garments were com-
posed of cotton cloth, fabricated by their females, and which
they had the art of staining red, their favourite colour ; but
many of them were in a state of nudity. The cartilage of
the nostril was perforated, and in it they stuck a piece of
tortoise-shell, the bone of a fish highly polished, or a parrot's
feather. They adorned their arms, neck, and ankles, with
the teeth of their enemies which they had slain in battle, or
devoured at home. Their bodies were painted -in the most
hideous manner, which appears to have been intended to
make them look more formidable in the eyes of their enemies
than pleasing in the sight of their friends. The favourite
style of doing this, was first. to smear a quantity of red paint
all over them ; they then encircled one eye with a streak of
white, and the other with one of black ; they also disfigured
340 8AVAGE CU8TOMS.
their cheeks with deep incisions and horrible scars, which
they stained with various colours ; and the greater number
and depth of these disfigurations constituted their idea of
manly beauty, and martial appearance.
Their revenge was deep and implacable — it resembled
rather the wild fury of a lion than the passion of a man.
When anger took possession of a Carib's heart, he vented it
against everything, whether animate or inanimate, which
chanced to fall in his way. Although in general calm and
apparently insensible to pain, if struck by an arrow in these
moments of rage, like the North American Indian, he would
tear it from the wound, bite it, spit upon it, and, dashing it
to the ground, trample it to atoms beneath his feet. He never
pitied — never forgave — never spared ! To fall upon an
enemy unarmed, knock him down, capture him, and finally
eat him, was the boast of a Carib warrior ! For this they were
bred up from their youth. To bear with an unflinching
spirit the most excruciating torments, inflicted by the hands
of his own father and nearest kin — to suffer all the severities
and unnatural cruelties which the savage breast was capable
of imagining without betraying one symptom of weakness —
to rise superior to pain, and baffle the rage of his persecutors
by calmness and tranquillity, was the test by which the
courage of the young Carib was tried. If he succeeded in
this, he was looked upon as one of the warriors of his
country, and pronounced " a man like themselves ;" while,
on the contrary, should one cry escape his lips, one suppli-
cation for mercy break from him, he was despised as a
coward, and driven from society.
When an expedition against the Arrowawks was intended,
a chief was elected, with solemn ceremonies. During the
time of peace, however, the Caribs appear to have owned
no head ; they paid, indeed, some little veneration to the
old men, but this appears to have been merely from respect
to their age, — at any rate, they were not able, by their in-
fluence, to protect the weak or the stranger. The man who
aspired to lead his countrymen to war was obliged to
CANNIBALISM. 341
undergo the most severe sufferings before he was accounted
worthy of that honour. If he was successful, upon his re-
turn he was treated with a grand feast, and was allowed to
take as many captives for his own share as he liked, and
alter his name a second time to that of the most formidable
Arrowawk who had fallen by his hand, while his own people
presented for his choice the most beautiful of their
daughters. Their mode of warfare was very different to
that of the present day, — they thought it no honour to fall
fighting for their country. Their plan was, not to wait for
a drawing up of their forces, but to capture all their foes
they found unprepared, whom, at the end of the war, they
carried home, and either slaughtered them for the grand
feast, or kept them until they became sufficiently plump for
eating. They preserved the fat of these poor creatures to
anoint the bodies of their children, in hopes of making them
as martial as themselves.
Happy for us is it that we live in an age when Paganism,
with all its accompanying horrors, has given place to the
mild doctrines of Christianity — when this land, so beautified
by the hand of Nature, is freed from those barbarous wars,
those soul-sickening feasts of human flesh, which once
polluted it ! That man can actually devour his fellow*
creatures is almost incredible — indeed, some persons of
philosophical minds have doubted the truth of anthro-
pophagy ; yet, shocking as it is to the imagination, it has
been too fully proved to be denied; indeed, some of the
Caribs, when, in later years, they have been asked about
this revolting practice, have unhesitatingly answered in the
affirmative, and even gone so far as to say that Frenchmen
eat better than Englishmen, and Englishmen better than
natives.* Although, within these last years, so much has
been effected by the laudable zeal of Christian missionaries,
yet, even now, there are " dark corners of the earth" where
* Some authors assert that this is only vanity in the French ; that
they think so highly of themselves, that even in the interesting point of
being eaten, they will not allow the pre-eminence to other nations.
Q2
342 CARIB HOSPITALITY.
human flesh is not only eaten from feelings of revenge, bit
partook of as a luxury. 4
I read in a periodical, some time ago, a circumstance
which may be termed a romance of real life. I pretend Dot
to give it in its original words, but the tenour of the case is
as follows : A gentleman was once travelling through the
interior of Grenada, or Trinidad, I am not .certain .whicb,(/$
and after riding for some time through rocky defiles and
umbrageous woods, he at length came to an open plain,
on which was erected about half a dozen Carib huts.
Riding up to the door of the principal one, an old man was
seen reclining upon a rustic seat, who at the approach of the
stranger arose, and, with much native politeness, invited him
to alight, and spend the day at his hut. The gentleman,
being one who was travelling in pursuit of knowledge as
well as amusement, was well pleased to have the opportunity
of becoming a little acquainted with the domestic manners of
this ancient people. After walking about for some time,
and making sketches of the various beautiful scenes which
surrounded the hut, his attention was arrested by the plain-
tive cry of a female. Having a good supply of the " milk
of human kindness'' within his breast, and a heart open to
the distresses of his species, the traveller determined to go
in quest of the afflicted fair. Directing his steps by the
sound of the voice, which appeared to issue from a magni-
ficent grove of trees near the spot, he soon came in sight of
the object of his commiseration, whom he found to be, not a
fair, but a dark beauty, of sixteen or seventeen years of age.
Her long black hair floated down her naked shoulders; the
tears were rolling over her smooth brown cheeks ; while her
languishing dark eyes were turned with mournful looks upon
the face of a man, who, with knitted brow, was employed in
fastening her slender wrists to one of the trees. Supposing
* " The New Zealanders are perpetually carrying on war with each
other, to which they are stimulated, not by thirst of conquest, but by
the desire of eating the flesh of their antagonists !" — See Prichard's
" Researches."
REVOLTING MEAL. 343
she had committed some fault for which she was about to
receive corporal punishment, the gentleman begged very
earnestly for her pardon ; and from the smile which passed
over the harsh features of the man, he thought his request
was complied with.
The day passed very rapidly, and our traveller was de-
lighted with all he saw. His host was all attention, pointing
out to his notice whatever he thought would amuse ; and
when dinner was announced, ushered him into his hut with
the air of a French petit-maitre. The dinner table was laid
out in the English style, in compliment to his guest ; and
the calabashes which contained the water &c. were beauti-
fully carved and stained. The first refreshment introduced
was soup,' which was contained in an English tin tureen, that
shone like silver ; and from the keen air of the mountain,
and the exercise he had taken, our traveller made a very
hearty repast upon it. After its removal, and while waiting
for the other viands, the host asked — •' How he liked Carib
soup?" u Excellent I" said the gentleman — " very delicious —
I must beg a few receipts from your cookery book.** " O,
it's very simple/' replied the old Carib, u if you have the
proper articles to make it of : what you have been eating
was made from the hands and feet of the girl you were
begging for this morning !" What were the feelings of the
traveller at this horrible information can be better imagined
than described. The repast he had shared in, the fate of the
poor girl, and his own situation amid a race of cannibals,
filled him with horror, and almost drove reason from her
throne. It is almost unnecessary to state that he left the
scene of bloodshed as soon as possible ; and never, never
more did he think of visiting a Carib, or partaking of Carib
soup* I have given the story as I received it ; as to its
authenticity, I will not take upon myself to vouch for it.
With regard to the religious rites and tenets of the Caribs
but little can be said, for but little is known with any degree
of truth. They appear to have an idea that death was not
a final extinction of being ; but that the soul (or rather
344 CARIB WORSHIP.
souls, for it was the general opinion among them that every
pulse that beat in their bodies was a separate soul) went to
another world, where they enjoyed themselves very much
after the manner they did in this, and that their bows and
arrows were as necessary there as here. For this reason they
buried the weapons in the graves of their friends, and in-
humed several captives with them, that they might have
attendants in " the land of spirits." Some authors assert
that they acknowledged one great universal Cause, to whom
they gave the name of " May boy a," who was invisible to
them, but who watched their actions, and heard their words ;
that this being possessed an irresistible power; and that
subordinate to him were many other gods. Other writers,
however, maintain that the Caribs had not even a name for
a deity ; and that after death they believed they decayed
away like the animals they were acquainted with. Which
was the fact is a matter of surmise ; but Columbus mentions
that in several of their huts were seen little altars composed
of banana leaves and rushes, and that upon these were laid
offerings of fruit, fish, flowers, &c. It seems probable that
their religious principles were like those of other savages,
suggested rather by the dread of impending evils, than
gratitude for favours received. " We can all forget benefits,
although we implore mercy," was their motto.
Some of the Caribs pretended to be magicians, and wor-
shipped demons with rites and ceremonies of the darkest
superstition : these people were termed Boyez, and in them
was placed implicit faith. Upon the discovery of these
islands, the Spaniards endeavoured to convert the natives to
Christianity ; but the means used to accomplish this were dia-
metrically opposite to what they ought to have been. Instead
of setting it forth as a doctrine of love and mercy, and in-
culcating its precepts with mildness and humanity, they
shewed at once the bloody tenets of the church of Rome,
and condemned those to the stake who did not immediately
subscribe to their opinions.
This manner of proceeding, instead of converting the
CRUELTY OF THE SPANIARDS. 345
Caribs, only fixed firmer in their minds their dislike to the
intruders ; they witnessed their quarrels among themselves,
their ferocious and implacable resentments, their insatiable
thirst after gold, and the cruelties they perpetrated in search-
ing after that metal. Can it be wondered at, then, that they
did not believe the superiority of the Christian religion, as
taught by the Spaniards, over their own ? or that the rites
of baptism, which they could not understand or appreciate,
were despised by them?
One of these unhappy people being condemned to be
burnt for his attempts to save his country from the en-
croachments of its conquerors, was promised, by a Roman-
catholic priest, admittance into heaven if he would only
embrace the Christian faith before he died. "Are there
any Spaniards in that region of bliss you tell me of ? f ' in-
quired the unhappy victim. " Yes," replied the priest;
"but only such as are good." — " Then I will never go there,
where I may meet with one of that accursed race ; for the
best of them have neither worth nor goodness." And from the
cruel treatment these islanders met with, there was but too
much reason in this exclamation.
END op VOL. I.
T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin's Lane.
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